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Quick of Japan QJ Helicopters


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Old 03-27-2010, 07:59 AM   #21 (permalink)
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That's good. I am going to have to take a look at that servo, I believe that is one of the new releases. It sounds like you have got it working better and have the length of the servo arm and gain dialed in. What RPM are you hovering? Do you have a hover or normal mode and an Idleup 1 Mode?

Harold
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Old 03-28-2010, 12:01 AM   #22 (permalink)
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I don't have a optical tach but I do have an iphone so I purchased the Helitach application that is being talked about on HeliFreak. In normal mode I was using an accelerated throttle curve that would have the throttle at 80% with the stick at the mid point and 0 degree pitch. In normal mode, from mid stick up, I have a linear throttle and pitch curve. While in a hover, the Helitach was reading approximately 2200 RPM. I slowed it down a bit so in normal mode hover was 2000 RPM and that seems about right for me.

I am still having one more bit of frustration. I am unable to get more that about +/-5 degrees of pitch change on the elevator. With the aileron +/-8 degress of pitch change is easily possible. The elevator just will not move that much. I feel like I need to adjust some of the swash/travel settings (Dx7 radio) but I spent time on this today with no luck.

Any ideas?
Thanks!
-Paul
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Old 03-28-2010, 12:22 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Is that helitach app any good? Is it easy to use? Does it use an algorythm to determine head speed or what? Sorry...I have run out of questions!

Last edited by Henry; 03-28-2010 at 10:33 PM..
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Old 03-28-2010, 09:22 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Your hovering setup looks good. I always do the final adjusting on how the heli hovers and feels moving the sticks. I have been taught to make each movement of the stick to be and feel about the same, or linear. Most people do not run more than 6 degrees on the elevator for regular flying.
Yes, you can increase it with the swashplate travel settings. When you increase the elevator, the cyclic changes in the same porportion.
Hover the heli and get it where it responds the way you want it to respond on the feel of the sticks, and make elevator and cyclic movements have the same effect making the heli move. That is what I have been taught.

Harold
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Old 03-28-2010, 10:19 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Henry - The iphone application is very easy to use. The only bad part is putting an expensive phone on the ground while spinning up and hovering the helicopter. Not a big deal with electrics but I would never use this for a nitro. There is a big thread here on Helifreak with a lot more information if you are interested:
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=151335

Harold - I am having a problem getting 6 degress of elevator. I just cant go past 5 degress without some binding. If you know there is no issue with QJ8 getting 6 or more degrees of elevator then I must have something not quite correct in my setup or radio settings. I will keep looking.
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Old 03-28-2010, 10:36 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PAS View Post
Henry - The iphone application is very easy to use. The only bad part is putting an expensive phone on the ground while spinning up and hovering the helicopter. Not a big deal with electrics but I would never use this for a nitro. There is a big thread here on Helifreak with a lot more information if you are interested:
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=151335

Harold - I am having a problem getting 6 degress of elevator. I just cant go past 5 degress without some binding. If you know there is no issue with QJ8 getting 6 or more degrees of elevator then I must have something not quite correct in my setup or radio settings. I will keep looking.
I guess then it uses the camera to read the blades...
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Old 03-28-2010, 10:52 PM   #27 (permalink)
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No I think Helitach uses the microphone. You need to set up the number of blades (usually 2) and the approximate RPM (within 30%). The program performs some fancy math on the mic audio samples to calculate the RPM.
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Old 03-28-2010, 11:29 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Now that's interesting!
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Old 03-29-2010, 09:26 AM   #29 (permalink)
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One side of the mixing arms is slightly shorter than the other side. Make sure the shorter side is the side that is connected to the long linkage that goes down to the swashplate. This will give you slightly more travel.

Harold
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Old 03-29-2010, 11:11 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Harold - I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed but using calipers, I was not able to measure a difference in the length of the mixing arms. By eye, I can convince myself that one side looks a little shorter but when I used the calipers and a ruler I could not measure any difference. Are we talking about < 1 mm?
Thank you for your help!
-Paul
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Old 03-30-2010, 07:49 AM   #31 (permalink)
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On some of the models there was about 1mm shorter distance from center of the L4 to the center of the bolt hole. Yours may be equal.

Harold
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