ULTIMATE MOD OF THE SHOGUN FRAME (and one Walkera part) - Page 5 - HeliFreak
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Zoom/Shogun 400 Electric - Zoom - Shogun 400 Specific Discussion


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Old 12-15-2006, 11:04 PM   #81 (permalink)
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Better pics and lower inverts. :wink:



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Old 12-15-2006, 11:05 PM   #82 (permalink)
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Grass cutting with heli gets you this:

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Old 12-15-2006, 11:06 PM   #83 (permalink)
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Oh well.
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Old 12-16-2006, 10:41 PM   #84 (permalink)
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Well, I didn't think there was much more mods to do. But I guess this will never end. :?

Anyway, I'm using this to mount my motor:


Which leaves me the original shogun motor mount to mod. I basically just cut it off at the yellow line and made two holes at the red dots:
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Old 12-16-2006, 10:44 PM   #85 (permalink)
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I then flipped the two servo mountings over (the original front alum mount is now used to mount the motor mount - does that make sense?)

Anyway, I now have to front holes for my next mod (arrow):

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Old 12-16-2006, 10:49 PM   #86 (permalink)
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With these front mounting holes, I intalled a square alum plate (red arrow) that I bent at about 45 degrees. Mounting was via two nuts and bolts:



I also added a support CF plate (?) - black arrow.
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Old 12-16-2006, 10:51 PM   #87 (permalink)
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The whole purpose of this was to make an elevated battery mount:



Which functions likes so:

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Old 12-16-2006, 10:54 PM   #88 (permalink)
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By elevating the battery higher, my horizontal center of gravity shifts higher. As I understand it, the closer the C of G is to the tail boom line, the easier it is to roll the heli.
Well, I don't know is this is the way to check horizontal C of G, but here's how I do it:

Hang the heli as close as possible to the tail boom line - by the main gear : :mrgreen:



And I find my head side is now slightly heavier:

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Old 12-16-2006, 10:57 PM   #89 (permalink)
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I noted three improvements by doing this mod:

1) Its now very easy to install and take out the Lipo batt due to is being closer to my canopy opening:



2) My canopy now does not carry any of the lipo weight - therefore I can grind down the canopy further to lose weight.

and 3) I DOES ROLL BETTER!!!!

I love this hobby. :wink:
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Old 12-17-2006, 03:00 AM   #90 (permalink)
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A vid of the CCPM mechanism: layout & movement:
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File Type: wmv ccpm_mechanism.wmv (4.76 MB, 194 views)
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Old 12-22-2006, 11:22 AM   #91 (permalink)
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It feels real weird not having anything else to do -mechanically - to this bird. Its flying perfectly.


I'm bored.


Anyway, Chopchop at RCGroups posted this wiring diagram to improve power distribution:



Original post:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...9&postcount=23
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Old 12-22-2006, 11:27 AM   #92 (permalink)
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I modified it very very slightly to improve it further. The wiring basically involves A, B and C. "A" is to improve Earth by having an additional wire to the negative return. B is to improve positive (volt/power) to the two servos which work hardest at keeping the heli up in the air and another to the gyro (also power hungry). And C is where all the positive points from the servo to the BEC meet up.
Very simple really.

Will post pictures of the set up.
Happy flying.
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Old 01-09-2007, 08:52 AM   #93 (permalink)
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ENUFF SAID.
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Old 01-09-2007, 09:00 AM   #94 (permalink)
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Well, I haven't posted much mods lately. Mainly cuz there hasn't been any. Which I think is a good sign that my model has finally reached its equillibrium.

I did however run into a weak spot yesterday:



The arrow above points to my servo arm connected to the push-pull rod. I'm using an aircraft connector (easy to adjust rod lenght). Where this connector is bolted to the plastic servo arm, I found tons of BINDING.
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Old 01-09-2007, 09:04 AM   #95 (permalink)
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Here's the offending item:



The plastic hole where the connector is bolted to binds it as its bolt is tightened. If it is tightened too much, it will bind more, while if I tighten too little, it starts to wobble.
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Old 01-09-2007, 09:14 AM   #96 (permalink)
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Here's the solution:



I use these copper bushings that were lying around my tool box.
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Old 01-09-2007, 09:16 AM   #97 (permalink)
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I can't recall where they came from, but I think it was from my original #36 bird's see-saw arm support:

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Old 01-09-2007, 09:20 AM   #98 (permalink)
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All I had to do was file the copper bushings to exactly the height of the servo arm, drilled a hole JUST big enough for it to be pushed in. Here's the end product:




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Old 01-09-2007, 09:26 AM   #99 (permalink)
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By lining the servo arm with copper bushing, I feel very little binding of the servo rod connector.
Obviously to get rid of all the binding - bearings should be used. But I don't have that size at the moment. Another way would be to use servo ball links.
But for now, I'm happy with my copper bushings.

Happy flying! :wink:
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Old 01-14-2007, 08:49 AM   #100 (permalink)
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Flying in the highlands of Borneo...
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