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4G6 / V120 Series Walkera 4G6 / V120 Series Helicopter Support


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Old 05-20-2010, 03:40 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Beginners 4G6/4G6s info

This thread will remain under construction, and feedback is very much appreciated !



Introduction
Hi all,

Beginnings
As I have seen many beginners (including me) taking on this advanced heli, I thought I start a thread to warn beginners, and to share my experience if beginners take up the challenge and try to fly this little beast. I hope this thread may help them to get to fly earlier and better than I do. I came from a blade mcx directly to the 4G6, and I have found it very difficult to learn how to hover her! Other people allready mentioned this is not a beginner's heli, and I could not agree more. But I took up the challenge, and now I am proud to say that I can hover her side-in after 6 months! (which means that I cannot fly yet, if I want to fly, I take my mcx). Most people probably want to fly sooner than that, they should switch to an easier heli like a Walkera CB100 or an Eflite Blade MSR.

Methods
I encountered many of the 4G6 related issues, and therefore try to share my experiences as best as I can in a structured way. As 99% of the info was already shared on the different forums by other people, there is a lot of linking here, and I definitely will try to give the original poster credit when appropriate. I will try to edit the posts in this thread as more usefull info (and hopefully feedback as well) comes in.

First things firstContents (Links will open single posts only. Alternatively just scroll down)
Warning
As mentioned, the 4G6 is not considered a beginner's helicopter! Flying it as a beginner will require quite a lot of study, quite a lot of money, and lots and lots of time and patience. If you are prepared to spend all of this into your hobby - the 4G6 - then you are in for a huge challenge which is - in the end - very rewarding. If not, you are probably better off with the above mentioned MSR or CB100.

Teaser
I do not want to end this introduction with a warning. Therefore, look at the latest teaser by Buildemm with Dkfuji's FBL head.
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5fXvKI_xg2Q[/ame]

Happy flying!
Henk
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Blade MCX, FBL 4G6V-2S Xtreme, FBL 4G6V-1S
Xtreme rewind, FBL 4G6S-1S Bell 222 Darthdark, FBL V120D02S

Last edited by hjns; 06-10-2010 at 02:01 AM..
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Old 05-20-2010, 03:42 AM   #2 (permalink)
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What to buy as a beginner?

Short answer:
Buy the 4G6S (= 4G6 + 3-axis gyro) with the 2801 Pro Transmitter as a combo.

Long answer:
The 4G6 is sold as combo with and without transmitter. The transmitter is either the cheaper 6-channel Tx 2602 or the more expensive Tx 2801 Pro. Also, the heli is sold with (as 4G6S) or without the 3-axis gyro (as 4G6). Choosing between the different combo's of course will depend on your budget, and on your expectations. Advantages and disadvantages of the different Transmitters and adding the 3-axis gyro are detailed below.

For the 4G6S (with 3-axis gyro)
  • The advantages of the TX 2602 are: Lower price as compared to TX 2801 Pro, Sufficient to fly, Binds to the 3-axis RX without hassle
  • Disadvantages of the TX 2602: Only one model can be bound, no memory for multiple models, Limited adjustment of throttle/pitch curves and expo, No throttle hold (switch to turn off the motor, while keeping control over the servos). In order to correctly setup your heli, you need to manually disconnect the motor.
  • The advantages of the TX 2801 Pro are: Very nice adjustments for throttle/pitch curves, expo etc, Memory for multiple models/helicopters/airplanes, Throttle hold (switch to turn off the motor, while keeping control over the servos). Note that these are only partial advantages, as throttle hold does not work with the current 3-axis gyro in Idle 1/Stunt mode, only in Normal mode, and neither do pitch curves.
  • Disadvantages of the TX 2801 Pro: More expensive than the TX 2602, More actions needed to correctly setup with the 3-axis gyro, Not all 2801 functions are available in 2602 mode

For the 4G6 (without 3-axis gyro)
  • The advantages of the TX 2602 are: Lower price as compared to TX 2801 Pro, Sufficient to fly
  • Disadvantages of the TX 2602: Only one model can be bound, no memory for multiple models, Limited adjustment of throttle/pitch curves and expo, No throttle hold (switch to turn off the motor, while keeping control over the servos). In order to correctly setup your heli, you need to manually disconnect the motor.
  • The advantages of the TX 2801 Pro are: Very nice adjustments for throttle/pitch curves, expo etc, Memory for multiple models/helicopters/airplanes, Throttle hold (switch to turn off the motor, while keeping control over the servos)
  • Disadvantages of the TX 2801 Pro: More expensive than the TX 2602

Do I need the 3-axis gyro?
  • Short answer: YES
  • My opinion: after trying to learn on the 4G6 (with stock HH gyro), I made very little progress. It was very difficult for me to learn to hover tail-in, but I succeeded. It took a lot of time, a lot of blades, some rear gears and a part of the sofa, and I still could not hover side-in. However, as soon as the 3-axis gyro came out, I bought it and installed it. Within a few weeks, I was hovering side-in, and it is much easier to fly, making the 4G6S accessible for beginners as well!
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4c3JO7nyQJ8[/ame]

Necessary tools

Read first these pages on What do I need to get started?

OK. So what do I have that is really needed:

Helicopter related tools
  • Micro Blade balancer. Although the 4G6 blades come in pairs that are usually well balanced, it is good practice to make sure that your blades are balanced. Especially after repairs of damaged foamies using easy mods, balancing is a must to prevent weird vibrations that can make the heli unflyable.
  • Pitch Gauge fitting for 4G6. The pitch (angle of attack) on the rotor blades needs to be checked to set up the helicopter. You'll need this to set up the pitch curve during setup.
  • Battery meter. Especially the 3-axis gyro needs quite a lot of juice. Make sure to use fully charged Lipos when flying with this bird. A battery meter to check voltage comes very handy.
General tools
  • 2 Philips micro screwdrivers, tip size 000. You will need two of these, because the blade grips are connected to the feather shaft using two very small screws. You need to fixate the first screw while rotate the other. Magentic and hardened tips will ease your work tremendously as well.
  • Small hex drivers. A hex driver comes with your 4G6. However, it is much easier to use a normal hex driver with the same size.
  • Loctite threadlock. A must! The above described screws to the feather shaft are a perfect example of where to use loctite. You do not want these screws to come loose mid-flight. The 4G6 head rotates at around 4000 rpm, so loose-flying blades can cause serious damage.
  • Multipurpose cutter
  • Pincet/tweezer
  • Long nose pliers
  • Needle nose pliers
  • CA glue
Recommended addons/upgrades for beginners:
  • Main gear saver. Upon crashing, the motor may continue to drive the main gear and therefore the head/blades. This mod includes a shear pin between main gear and main shaft that breaks when the main blades encounter too much friction, minimizing the damage. See Don's thread here.
  • Motor connector mod. Deliver more power to your motor by removing the connectors between the ESC and the motor. The connectors usually get very hot. Just solder the wires from the motor directly onto the soldering points on the ESC will give you a great improvement in power and/or flight times. The improvement has been documented many times on the different forums.
  • Add MicroDeans connectors. These connectors provide much better connectivity between your Lipos and the ESC. See a great movie here.
  • 3-axis gyro/receiver (RX). This gyro/receiver combo helps to stabilze your heli, so that only minimal corrections are needed to keep the heli in the air. That means you can focus to learn to fly, i.e., to learn to move the heli also correctly when the heli is pointing with the nose towards you, which is difficult enough. Read this thread on the first introduction of this very nice piece of equipment.
  • Motor upgrade. The stock motor is not really powerful, and usually will get very hot after 2 minutes of flight. Upgrading to the HP08 motor, or the newer HP07 motor will solve this and provide you with a more powerful motor and longer flight times. It is relatively easy to do the exchange. There is currently a thread open for everybody to share his experiences with different motors, different lipos, different ESCs and different pinion gears, comparing headspeed and flight times in a nice Excel sheet. Feel free to share your experience as well!
    It is even possible to upgrade to a 2S setup, however, this is definitely not a beginner's mod.
  • Procrasher's hardened main shaft. The stock main shafts are notoriously soft and may bend even upon a soft crash. With the carbon steel main shaft I have crashed now more than 20 times, and it is still true. Read Procrasher's famous post here, and send him a PM if you want one.
  • Dkfuji's true CNC head. I have not tried this crash-proof version yet, but on the forums it has received good reviews. I did try his CNC flybarless version, and I never want to go back to a flybarred version..... No need to say that the FBL version also stayed true throughout multiple crashes. Note, that Timewerx also created a very nice FBL head.
  • Lipos and Charger
  • Initial collection of spare parts: Tail gears, Main shafts, Feather shafts, etc
  • Print your own canopy...
  • Recommended modifications to save money: Main blades modifications, Canopy modifications, Damaged main blades repair.
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Blade MCX, FBL 4G6V-2S Xtreme, FBL 4G6V-1S
Xtreme rewind, FBL 4G6S-1S Bell 222 Darthdark, FBL V120D02S

Last edited by hjns; 08-26-2010 at 06:21 AM..
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Old 05-20-2010, 03:43 AM   #3 (permalink)
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So you bought a 4G6, now what?

Your 4G6 is a full collective pitch micro helicopter. Therefore, mechanical setup of the 4G6 requires knowledge of collective pitch helicopters. So start studying first, and make sure that you know what you are talking about!

Homework

Setting up your 4G6 correctly
This may take several hours the first time. So make sure to have enough Lipos available, and only start out with the right tools, or you may break some fragile parts....Find the exploded diagram also on Walkera's website. Below is an expanded version of the original post by Gadflyii.

The following setup was done with the 4G6S (with the 3-axis gyro), the 2801 Pro v2.2 TX, full plastic swashplate, plastic head, CNC blade grips, and Gaui mixer arms. However, the principles should be similar for other variants.
  • Preparations: Remove the landing skids and set the chassis on blocks. I took some LEGO from my kids and used that to stabilize the chassis. Make sure that it is level.
  • Motor setup: the pinion gear should be in “loose” contact with the main gear. Leave just a little bit of room between the two gears, so that the main gear has a very little bit of play. Too tight, and your motor will bog down very easily. Too much play, and the pinion gear will damage the tips of the teeth of the main gear. See also this post by Mikeinde.
  • Remove the head and the swashplate, and all linkages. Remove the servo horns. Disconnect the motor from the ESC.
  • Bind your Transmitter (TX) to the heli. Let it initialize until you hear the high-high-low beeps, and then put the TX into “Idle 1” mode. Then put the throttle in midposition. This will place the servos in midposition as well.
  • Put the servo horns back at 90 degrees. If it is not possible to put them back at 90 degrees, use the subtrim function of the TX to make it better. (True 90 degrees may be inbetween the grooves on the servo throw arms)
  • Turn the heli off. Reassemble the swashplate and the head. Do not add the linkages yet.
  • Position the swashplate along the main shaft in such a way that the swhasplate has equal room to move up and downwards. The swashplate should be directly in the middle between the head above and the collar below. I used my own swash leveling tool (created from a damaged main gear) to do this.
    In the picture here, the red arrows show wrong (unequal) distance of the swashplate to the head-collar, and the green arrows show approximately correct distances. As mentioned above, I used a damaged main gear to position the swashplate correctly.
  • Bind your Transmitter (TX) to the heli again. Let it initialize until you hear the high-high-low beeps, and then put the TX into “Idle 1” mode. Then put the throttle in midposition. This will place the servos in midposition as well.
  • Take one servo-swashplate linkage, and adjust it to the length necessary to place the swashplate in the correct mid-position as described above. Turn the heli off.
  • Adjust the other two linkages from the servo horns to the swashplate so that they are of equal length as the one you just adjusted.
  • Reposition the linkages to the servo horns and to the swashplate. (See image) Note that the rings of the linkages have an inside and an outside. Make sure that the servo horn balls and the swashplate balls enter the rings of the linkages from the inside.
  • Reposition the head, the flybar-ball, and the flybar.
  • Bind your Transmitter (TX) to the heli again. Let it initialize until you hear the high-high-low beeps, and then put the TX into “Idle 1” mode. Then put the throttle in midposition. This will place the servos in midposition and now your swashplate should be level as well. If not, readjust the linkages by 1 linkage and 1 turn at a time to level your swashplate.
  • Add the linkages from the swashplate to the flybar-ball links. The flybar-ball should be positioned in the middle of the head, with ample (preferably equal) room below and above (see image). Turn the heli off.
  • Complete the head with the rest of the flybar, mixer arms, blade grips, and main rotor blades. Make sure that the flybar paddles are level with the flybar-ball links.
  • Bind your Transmitter (TX) to the heli again. Let it initialize until you hear the high-high-low beeps, and then put the TX into “Idle 1” mode. Then put the throttle in midposition. This will place the servos in midposition, your swashplate should be level, the links to the flybar ball are horizontal, and then look at the pitch of the blades. These should be zero (i.e., angle of attack is completely horizontally). If not, adjust the long interlinks from the swashplate to the mixer arms so that both blades are completely level.
  • Tail setup: Loosen the two screws that hold the tail servo in place, and removed the servo horn. Set all sub trims for the tail to zero, and verify there is no trim on the tail servo. Power up the heli and let the servos initialize, then power the heli back off. Put the servo throw arm back on at 90'. Set the tail blade pitch to 0' by hand. Note how far the servo is from the servo rod. Move the servo forward (towards tail) about .5mm and then adjust the servo control rod. Reassemble and powered back on, and verify that the tail is at 0' pitch and servo arm is at 90'.
  • For tail setup, see also the explanation from IMHO.

An even better manual for setting up your swashplate right can be bought here.
It is not expensive for a very good piece of advice!

Balance your blades
: follows.

Different blades. Steve Joblin did a good job and provided a description of the different blades for the 4G6.




Troubleshooting
  • Spinning tail - see the spinning tail troubleshooting guide here.
  • Teethless front tail transmission gear - if you crash on your tail, the main gear may break the teeth of your front tail transmission gear. Either you buy yourself the full cnc front tail transmission gear from Wolfgang, or you create a tail clutch. Quite some mods are available, but you may want to look here first.
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Blade MCX, FBL 4G6V-2S Xtreme, FBL 4G6V-1S
Xtreme rewind, FBL 4G6S-1S Bell 222 Darthdark, FBL V120D02S

Last edited by hjns; 08-26-2010 at 06:16 AM..
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Old 05-20-2010, 03:44 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Binding the TX to your heli

Tx 2801 Pro with 4G6 (HH gyro)
Tx 2801 Pro with 4G6S (3-axis gyro)
  • Read and follow Tom's very comprehensive guide here.
  • Try Dkfuji/Manny's settings. Note that PLT controls the amount of +/- pitch that you have in Normal mode. The lower (i.e., more negative) you add to PLT, the less maximum pitch you will have at full throttle. You can also then adjust the Idle-up pitch curve itself by switching to 2801 mode and adjusting the throttle curve and going back to 2601 stick mode. The higher you make PIT value (more "+") the less pitch you have at start-up and Normal flight. If you keep PLT at "0", the pitch curve is too steep and you end up with way too much pitch (at top and bottom collective stick) that will bog the motor in Idle-up flight mode. If you leave the PIT at "0", you will have too much pitch at 1/4 to 1/2 stick in NOR flight mode which makes it harder to control and land without cutting the motor out.

Tx 2602 with 4G6 (HH gyro)
  • To be added

Tx 2602 with 4G6S (3-axis gyro)ESC matters
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Xtreme rewind, FBL 4G6S-1S Bell 222 Darthdark, FBL V120D02S

Last edited by hjns; 06-12-2010 at 11:08 AM..
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Old 05-20-2010, 03:45 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Want to start flying?
  • Get familiar with helicopter aerodynamics
  • Put some training gear on.
  • Find a large area (at least 4x4x4 meters) with a smooth surface.
  • Then learn to fly using RADDs guide
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Xtreme rewind, FBL 4G6S-1S Bell 222 Darthdark, FBL V120D02S
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Old 05-20-2010, 03:45 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Default Modifications

Below is just a selection from the original mod threads.
Thread 1 Thread 2 Thread 3 Thread 4

Recommended for beginners:
  • 3-axis gyro: read the thread started by Dkfuji
  • HP08 motor
  • Main blades protection: Timewerx wrote a nice easy mod that protects your foam blades.

Other cool mods:
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Blade MCX, FBL 4G6V-2S Xtreme, FBL 4G6V-1S
Xtreme rewind, FBL 4G6S-1S Bell 222 Darthdark, FBL V120D02S

Last edited by hjns; 05-23-2010 at 03:40 AM..
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Old 05-20-2010, 08:55 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Wow that's what I call comprehensive - good work

Quote:
Originally Posted by hjns View Post
In case you haven't seen it, there's a new Helifreak FAQ next to usercp at the top of the page
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Old 05-20-2010, 08:57 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Link this thread to your sig to immortalize it
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Old 05-20-2010, 09:26 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusty1000 View Post
Wow that's what I call comprehensive - good work
Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusty1000 View Post
In case you haven't seen it, there's a new Helifreak FAQ next to usercp at the top of the page
No, I had not. I now have added it to the summary.
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Xtreme rewind, FBL 4G6S-1S Bell 222 Darthdark, FBL V120D02S
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Old 05-20-2010, 10:59 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Looking forward to getting the tips 'first hand'. CU in Basel this weekend. I'll start the preparatory reading....
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Old 05-20-2010, 11:32 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Awesome thread, this will live on forever I am sure.

Great job.

bizy
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Old 05-21-2010, 01:50 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bizy999 View Post
Awesome thread, this will live on forever I am sure.

Great job.

bizy
Thnx. Hope that it is helpful. What is your experience with the 4G6(S), and which sections were of most use to you?
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Xtreme rewind, FBL 4G6S-1S Bell 222 Darthdark, FBL V120D02S
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Old 05-21-2010, 01:51 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emergo View Post
Looking forward to getting the tips 'first hand'. CU in Basel this weekend. I'll start the preparatory reading....
We will build a 4G6 from our combined spare parts...
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Xtreme rewind, FBL 4G6S-1S Bell 222 Darthdark, FBL V120D02S
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Old 05-21-2010, 04:19 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Very good work.
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Old 05-21-2010, 10:10 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Cool. Thanks to whoever decided to make this a sticky! I feel honored!
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Old 05-22-2010, 09:34 PM   #16 (permalink)
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very good
very informative.
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Old 05-23-2010, 03:42 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raptorddd View Post
very good
very informative.
thanks!

Link added to Silver CNC upgrads, including a Flybar-Less CNC Rotor Head, Swash Plate, Pitch Slider, Tail Case, and Carbon Fiber Horizontal Fin Set in the mods section.
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Xtreme rewind, FBL 4G6S-1S Bell 222 Darthdark, FBL V120D02S
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Old 05-24-2010, 08:13 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Would love to see a "how to fix common problems" section on how to replace the stripped tail gears, replace feathering shaft, flybar, etc. Currently looking for the steps to replace the tail gear and having a hard time.

Great work,

thanks,

bizy
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Old 05-25-2010, 12:44 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bizy999 View Post
Would love to see a "how to fix common problems" section on how to replace the stripped tail gears, replace feathering shaft, flybar, etc. Currently looking for the steps to replace the tail gear and having a hard time.

Great work,

thanks,

bizy
Hi Bizy,

working on it, however, there can go wrong so many things....

wrt your issue, I assume it is the front tail gear that you are talking about:
* remove the 4 screws that fixate the landing skid to the frame.
* gently collaps the landing skid back towards the tail
* loosen the collar around the man shaft
* gently move all 3 servo horns to the lowest position
* gently push the head down so that there is space between main gea and frame
* note down how much space there is between tail servo and main frame
* remove the 4 screws that fixate the metal plate under the frame
* remove that plate
* gently remove the tail boom from its case
* replace the front tail gear
* ensure that the shaft is pushed all the way through both gears
* reposition the tail boom within its case. Notice the special space for the front bearing
* push the main gear up, and see if the gears are well positioned
* if so, build everything together in the reversed order as described above

Henk
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Xtreme rewind, FBL 4G6S-1S Bell 222 Darthdark, FBL V120D02S

Last edited by hjns; 05-25-2010 at 03:10 AM..
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Old 05-25-2010, 03:52 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Thumbs up

Great reading and this certainly would have got me up and running quicker. The post about the head setup is extremely valuable

Certainly worth the sticky status.
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