Heli drops out of the sky after 10-30 seconds of flight. - HeliFreak
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4#3, 4#3a, 4#3b, 4#3Q Walkera 4#3, 4#3a, 4#3b, 4#3Q Helicopter Support


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Old 06-25-2010, 11:48 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Heli drops out of the sky after 10-30 seconds of flight.

Then the receiver blinks slowly.

I was flying outside today and on the 3rd flight I was doing some FFF and it just dropped out of the sky. The motor was warm, but not hot, Neither was the battery or ESC. The LED was blinking slowly as if you turned off the transmitter. After that I unplugged the battery and transmitter then plugged it back in and re-binded. The receiver bonds perfectly and servo movement is normal. If I don't power up the motor it will stay connected for an unlimited amount of time.

I have 4 batteries. All charge to atleast 4.11 volts. Including the two new 600mah 20C batteries from wowhobbies (the "TurboAce" from my other thread).

The solder joints from the battery connector to the ESC is good. The battery connection itself is good. All read >1 ohm resistance measured with my multimeter.

The brushless motor connection is good, and the motor itself spins very easily to full RPM.

Sometimes the heli will have full flight power, for about 30 seconds then it just drops out of the sky. Sometimes if I hold it in my hand and try to go to full throttle it will stop at about 50% power for less than 5 seconds and the receiver will start blinking.

The transmitter still shows full power. I don't know honestly if the power indicator on the 4#3b transmitter (2401?) is actually a functioning power meter (green, yellow, red) or not but mine shows green. If I power up the heli but don't give it any throttle, after binding I can still control the servos from 50+ feet so I know it's not the transmitter batteries.

Is there a way to test if its either the receiver or the ESC? I'm happy with the factory ESC's power especially the 3 or so flights I got out of the new 20C batteries. Plenty of "pop" for this little bugger. Flys circuits much easier now, and didn't lose as much altitude when giving rudder input in a hover. So if its the receiver screwing up it'll just give me an excuse to buy a 2406C from a CB100. If its the ESC gone bad then I may upgrade, may not, whichever I can get for a reasonable price.
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Old 06-26-2010, 07:34 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by poor_red_neck View Post
Then the receiver blinks slowly.

I was flying outside today and on the 3rd flight I was doing some FFF and it just dropped out of the sky. The motor was warm, but not hot, Neither was the battery or ESC. The LED was blinking slowly as if you turned off the transmitter.
Take the canopy off and remove the yellow RX cover.

You will see a small metal can on one side of the circuit board that is encased in a transparent silicone sheath.

Check the two legs of this metal can for any breakage.... Once I had this can's legs break on my 4#3b in a hard crash. First, I had exactly the same symptoms as you until it finally refused to bind with TX.

The obvious solution if you saw some breaks or loose legs is to solder them back to the place they used to go. It's not an easy task due to the size of thing and you may need magnifying glass to do it!
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Old 06-26-2010, 10:57 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Is it a capacitor? My yellow case has already come off. I have heatshrink on it now. Do u mind snapping a few pics if its not a bother.

Sounds like my problem as today I got a 1 minute flight and now it wont bind at all
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Retired Helis - Outrage 550, Trex 500, Logo 400, Others
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Old 06-27-2010, 09:14 AM   #4 (permalink)
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This is the only pic I got left, don't have the RX anymore. Shown in the pic is an RX2406B with the arrow pointing to the metal can you must check for damaged legs.

It's a resonator. If it's damaged beyond repair, just buy a new(damn expensive!) RX. It's the RX's Achilles Heel, and you won't find a replacement part anywhere. I've even tried alternatives - same specs but different serial number from an electronics hobby store, didn't work.

Should you decide to buy a new RX, go for 2406C (one for CB100). The best one I've tried and worked perfectly with my double brushless 4#3b. Tail hold is superb, it's almost like heading hold!

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Old 06-27-2010, 02:36 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Gotcha thanks for the pic!

Ill check it when I get home.
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Blade 130X - Stock
mCPx v1 Brushless Stretch (125mm) - WK10A - 11000kv Inrunner - 550 mah - Full CNC Upgrades
Retired Helis - Outrage 550, Trex 500, Logo 400, Others
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