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Old 12-11-2010, 01:01 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dswitkin View Post
....The blades grips are attractive but unfortunately don't have a recessed area for the nut, which means that you need pliers in addition to a hex driver to install blades (just like the plastic grips). This always drives me nuts.....

....., along with the triple bearing block. I'm still trying to figure out where the collar goes. By the hole in the main shaft it seems the collar has to go between the main gear and the third bearing which is very weird.
I have had a many metal blade grips on helis over the years and they all had the sameblade bolt system..you need a hex driver for the blade bolts. (If you plan to fly helis regularly you should get a good set of 1.5, 2.0, 2.5 & 3.0 & 3.5mm hex drivers and appropriate nut drivers for the 3mm and 4mm locknuts that all helis use.)

P.S. Great job on the scale building!!!

As for the collar...I don't understand what collar you are referring too. There is only one collar used on that shaft. That is the collar at the top of the main frame. Once the maingear assembly is is bolted onto the bottom of the mainshaft, you pull up on the shaft so that the auto assembly is snug up against the middle bearing. Then you snug down the collar at the top. Now your mainshaft is secured so it will have no vertical movement.

Then you will see a few millimeters of mainshaft extending below the bottom of the auto/maingear hub. The extension simply fits into the third lower bearing.
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Old 12-11-2010, 02:43 PM   #22 (permalink)
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You ALWAYS have to use the jesus bolt. The clamping design on the lower end of the head block is simply to keep it solid against that main shaft so that it will not develop play in that area which will eventually result in the head hub rocking around the jesus bolt.
Thanks, that make sense. What's strange is they had installed both of these clamping bolts from the same side, when each has a recess on opposite sides of the block for the bolt head. I took the backwards one out and reinstalled it.
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Old 12-11-2010, 02:52 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
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As for the collar...I don't understand what collar you are referring to. There is only one collar used on that shaft. That is the collar at the top of the main frame. Once the maingear assembly is is bolted onto the bottom of the mainshaft, you pull up on the shaft so that the auto assembly is snug up against the middle bearing. Then you snug down the collar at the top. Now your mainshaft is secured so it will have no vertical movement.
The Swift 16 uses a bottom main shaft collar also to keep the main gear from sliding downwards:

http://www.centuryheli.com/products/...&currentid=378

And they sell one for the triple bearing block upgrade which I bought, but in person looks identical:

http://www.centuryheli.com/products/...&currentid=383

I think the first link above is an older style collar.

In any case, someone on another thread confirmed the bottom collar sits between the mean gear and the third bearing block, which has to have the bearing on top so it won't fall out. I appreciate the help though.
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Old 01-02-2011, 06:36 PM   #24 (permalink)
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The CNC tail went together easily. It does not come with instructions but fortunately the Swift 620 manual shows how to build it. This might seem obvious but I think counted five different types/lengths of screws...

Unfortunately the collars which sit between the head block and blade grips are too thick, which causes a side-load on the bearings when tightened down. As a result the grips turn very poorly. I've been filing them down for several days and it's improving but not quite there yet. I suppose you could just fly without these as the grips will get pulled apart during spool up but I'm trying to make them work.

Otherwise I'm almost ready for a test flight. I have to decide whether to steal a V-Bar from my Protos or buy a new one. Also I have a Futaba 6014 receiver coming soon so that each retract will be on its own channel with plenty of room left for lights etc.
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Old 01-03-2011, 10:21 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Daniel - Did you consider the MicroBeast for FBL? AMain has them for a lttle over $200. It sounds like your buddies over on InsideHeli really like them. May be a good alternative to keep the Protos in the air.
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Old 01-03-2011, 11:14 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Yeah, James was trying to convert me tonight actually. And they even have Mac software which is a huge plus for me. I guess I was trying to stick with a known quantity, and have the same system across my whole fleet, but maybe there's no point to that.
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Old 01-23-2011, 12:08 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Default Update: ready to fly!

Since the last update I bought and installed a 14 channel Futaba receiver and a full size V-Bar with 4.0 software. I installed a 1500 mAh NiCD pack under the front tray, put in a power switch, and cut the red lead on a servo extension to disable the BEC in the speed controller. I also sanded down the collars between the head block and blade grips until they moved smoothly (this took forever). Finally, I switched all my large helis from Deans connectors to Anderson Powerpoles.

The V-Bar is programmed and everything is ready for the maiden flight. I'm just missing the main blades and the CNC tail blade grips (but I can test fly without the latter). It's not a beautiful wiring job but I'm expecting to have to rearrange everything to fit in the fuselage anyway.
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Old 01-27-2011, 08:38 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Looks great buddy.. Where are you going to fly it ?
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Old 01-30-2011, 01:25 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Looks great buddy.. Where are you going to fly it ?
Good question. Maybe we can meet up at PARCS some weekend when the weather cooperates.
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Old 01-30-2011, 02:47 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Good question. Maybe we can meet up at PARCS some weekend when the weather cooperates.
Absolutely.. Speaking of that I have to renew my club and ama membership this week.
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Old 02-01-2011, 06:26 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Subscribed. I'm going to try and convert my Swift 16 over to FBL with a mini vbar 5.0 blueline express. I have my 401 mounted where you have the sensor on your vbar fullsize. I'm wondering if that would be the best spot. Perhaps under the front try near the ICE..

For my head conversion, I was going to purchase the longer balls for the stock grips and get that Century FBL Follower. I just need to confirm that the geometry will work with the mini vbar 5.0.
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Old 02-03-2011, 11:51 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Yup, that carbon plate could work for the mini V-Bar although I don't own one, so not sure about the size. Unfortunately they didn't sink the screws flush into the plate so I had to remove one of them to fit the sensor. But it would be a convenient spot assuming you put the receiver underneath or use satellites.

See post 11 for how you might skip the swash driver when using the stock head.
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Old 02-03-2011, 12:22 PM   #33 (permalink)
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I think there was someone on another forum that just drilled and tapped the side of the washout for an M3 or 4 grub screw and used that to secure it at the proper setting, as in an FBL configuration the washout hub does not have to slid up and down, it will only have to keep the inner start turning with the mainshaft.
I was thinking the same thing, but I did not have a good feeling about trying to drill into plastic and have it hold well. I almost purchased their FBL CNC head, but in the end I just ordered the FBL follower for 10mm shafts and some extra 3mm balls for the grips if the parts on hand don't work right for the collective geometry in the vbar.
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Old 02-03-2011, 12:28 PM   #34 (permalink)
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But the new CNC head, swash, and follower just arrived, so I doubt I'll use the plastic ones now. Pictures to follow.
I looked at this head too as the price is not bad considering you get the $44 follower with it along with CNC head-block, grips and hard dampeners already ready to go. I am wondering a couple of things:

Does that head use the same spindle as the stock head in a "mishap?"
Do we need to change out the dampeners in the stock head? Mikado recommends hard dampeners and carbon blades for best resolution. I ordered the delerin dampeners just in case, but all I have is a few pairs of woodies 520mm and 550mm.
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Old 02-03-2011, 03:39 PM   #35 (permalink)
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I compared the spindles and they looked the same to me. Not sure about the dampeners. As you mentioned it's not bad for the price. Mine even came with the head button which the site says is extra. Note that the CNC swash is separate.
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Old 02-24-2011, 12:29 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Hi! I am following this build with great interest because I've just started a Century Bell 222 build myself, only I will be using a trex600 clone mechanics instead.

I also bought some pretty cool retracts from rcaerodyne that will require a bit on tinkering to install- http://www.scaleflying.com/CNC-Landi...f-3_p_726.html

and since this is my first heli with retracts I'm gonna need some advice, mainly to find a good servo(s) as well as figure out how to slow it down for a nice scale-like motion. any suggestions?
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Old 02-24-2011, 10:27 AM   #37 (permalink)
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You can purchase a separate servo timer or some radios allow you to change the speed or delay movement such as the JR9503 does.
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Old 02-26-2011, 01:04 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Nice landing gear. I would probably get it if it was available in silver.

My plan for the retract speed is as Cactus mentions: do it in the radio. My Futaba 12FG has settings for this, although I haven't checked if they are slow enough. I plan to run three separate channels so I can set each end point individually. Apparently it's a huge headache to do this mechanically instead.

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Old 02-27-2011, 09:29 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Default Maiden test flight

Vadim and I did the maiden flight of the pod-and-boom Swift today. The idea was to try out the FBL head, V-Bar, CNC tail, and 600mm blades/boom. I had a bunch of problems:
  • I forgot to calibrate the ICE endpoints and had the throttle channel backwards (Futaba requires it to be reversed). We got this working and saw steady headspeeds of around 1650 at 75% and 1800 at 85% using fixed endpoints mode and a 910KV/10T/6S power system.
  • The tail was wagging slowly all over the place, even in a hover. I was using the stock tail blades and will go larger, but I suspect the real problem is the Hyperion servo which isn't up to the job. I'll buy a 9254 or equivalent, since increasing gain didn't help.
  • There seemed to be a lack of power. When I would descend it took almost full stick to climb again. I bumped up the pitch but it didn't help (I didn't have an FBL pitch gauge to check the exact range). The Castle logs didn't indicate any bogging though.
  • The were lots of vibrations on spool-up, which is the typical Swift Chicken Dance. This disappeared once the heli was spun up.

Overall it flew pretty sloppy and was even hard to land. Although I will say it autos like crazy from 5 feet with the big blades and light weight.

So definitely some work still to be done. For anyone considering a scale project, I strongly recommend testing the mechanics separately first. It's more work, but I would have cracked the fuselage the way it was flying today.

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Old 02-27-2011, 10:48 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Daniel,

You mentioned that you had a 1650 and an 1800 rotor speed...is this from taching it? If not how did you calculate the head speed.

If yur logging did not show any bogging then I would think that you do not have the pitch setting that you think you have.
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