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4G6 / V120 Series Walkera 4G6 / V120 Series Helicopter Support


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Old 03-27-2011, 10:32 AM   #21 (permalink)
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S ... now THAT is a NICE looking man cave!!!

Great analysis and work on the FBL heads. You're a big asset to these forums and its members .
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Old 03-31-2011, 10:18 AM   #22 (permalink)
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I've started work on a new head design for the M120. The frame of the M120 is a different design than the regular V120 or even the Extreme frame. One of the big differences is the distance between the upper and lower main shaft bearings. They are further apart than what we're used to, and I like it because I believe it makes the mainshaft run truer and more ridgidly. The support blocks are nicely supported and beefy as well, helping overall rigidity.
Anyhow, because of the larger distance, the shaft is equally longer in order to maintain the correct amount of travel for the swash to achieve maximum pitch.

If you go about using the Heli-Worx style of head you will need to use a shorter shaft. Taosgraveyard pointed out in one of his posts that he was using the mainshaft from the V120 which is shorter and works out pretty well.

I wanted to make a head that can accomodate multiple shaft lengths and have a simple but rigid stabilizer / follower that was also adjustable.

So far I have made the head part and the stabilizer will follow. You can see that I have made 2 flats at the bottom of the head that the stabilizer will slide over and act as an anti-rotation feature. It will also allow the stabilizer to be placed higher or lower as required by the geometry of the heli it is installed in. I have yet to drill the hole for the shaft to be pinned into. I plan on putting the hole in multiple places so different length shafts can go in and be pinned into the appropriate hole. I drilled the mainshaft hole right through the whole head so you can insert a longer shaft like the stock M120 one and pin it up top close to the top of the head.
I'm planning on trying to make the stabilizer with a setscrew or screws to lock it in place at whatever location along the head needed.
I like the follower posted on the german forum that Taosgraveyard linked to. The Hardy follower, and am going to try and go for something similar.







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Old 03-31-2011, 10:29 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Now thats a good idea, that head looks really nice. The adjustable height follower is an ideal solution. You can avoid holes and pins by using set screws on the follower. You might also consider using set screws in place of the head pin, much easier that way.
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Old 03-31-2011, 02:33 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Agreed. Great idea ... looks awesome!
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Old 03-31-2011, 09:39 PM   #25 (permalink)
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That's a nice looking head and a good idea.

+1 for set screws in place of those damn pins for the main shaft.
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Old 03-31-2011, 10:38 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Thanks for the comments guys, I like setscrews as well no doubt.
I spent a few hours in the cave tonight. My first shot at the follower came out decent but there's room for improvement. I just wanted to get something done so I could test, then there's plenty of time to make it a bit lighter, slimmer, etc.
I put it together just to see how it looks. Still have to drill and tap for the screws/pins.
Definately no slop so it should perform just as the Heli-Worx style. This weekend will be flight test time.







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Old 03-31-2011, 10:54 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snemi00 View Post
Thanks for the comments guys, I like setscrews as well no doubt.
I spent a few hours in the cave tonight. My first shot at the follower came out decent but there's room for improvement. I just wanted to get something done so I could test, then there's plenty of time to make it a bit lighter, slimmer, etc.
I put it together just to see how it looks. Still have to drill and tap for the screws/pins.
Definately no slop so it should perform just as the Heli-Worx style. This weekend will be flight test time.







Awesome job! I wish I had the equipment and skills to do something like that
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Old 04-01-2011, 03:00 PM   #28 (permalink)
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I made a new version of the follower just to try out a production technique to see what the results would be. I have a large modern fabrication facility that I work at and wanted to try laser cutting some aluminum for this purpose and see if it would be ok.
I made up a quick cad model and got some cut.
Results look pretty good, I will have to just run the parts over a bit of sandpaper to deburr the edges. I am all setup here for cutting mild steel and didn't want to spend the time to adjust focus, lenses, nozzles, etc on the laser to get an even better cut quality.
But as is now it will save me a ton of time compared to milling them.

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Old 04-01-2011, 08:18 PM   #29 (permalink)
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S ... that is really starting to take beautiful shape! I was going to suggest trimming away some of the excess metal on the follower, but I scrolled down further and you already had!!!

What kind of weight comparisons are we looking at here?
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Old 04-05-2011, 10:14 AM   #30 (permalink)
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I took the machine out for some flight testing this weekend and was very happy with the results. I was able to increase the gains on elevator and aileron a bit without the heli bobbling or shaking. This I think is because of the extra stability and rigidity of the head setup now. With the balance delay turned down to almost off, I was easily able to flip and roll without the machine becoming squirrelly.
I am able to get full +/- 12 deg pitch and 9deg cyclic without any binding.

I have made a few small changes and final dimensional mods to finish the design.
I began making a small run of about a dozen pieces. It takes a long time to make these things by hand, but I have received many PM's and requests for them so I figured I'd try making a few and see how it goes. I'm definately not into this for making money, it's just for the ability to say that I can. The small milling cutters, reamers, taps and accesories cost a small fortune. But who ever said any hobby is cheap?

I have made some final changes and will post some pics when I've got something nice to show.
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Old 04-05-2011, 01:13 PM   #31 (permalink)
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This is the general idea of what I meant about being able to use both the m120 longer shaft or the V120 standard shaft. I just photoshopped the image for now.

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Old 04-10-2011, 01:07 PM   #32 (permalink)
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So, becuse of the number of PM's and requests I have had, I decided to make a small run this past week. I can tell you this is not an easy task, it consumed most of my time and my wife is on the verge of killing me...

Anyhow, I am happy with the end results as the heads and followers came out looking very nice and I feel like wearing one of of them around my neck on a chain. Like little pieces of jewellery. I can't see myself making any more of these manually, it is just not worth it, I would not be able to charge enough to make it worthwhile. The home shop is good for prototypes and testing, not production. I am going to speak with a few local shops I know to see about getting some made up.
If anyone is interested in a set, PM please, and to those that have already asked for them, they will be in the mail tomorrow.

What you see in the pictures are the newest style head that I revised since the last one. Just a few small changes in dimensions. The hole at the top is for the M120 shaft and the hole down at the bottom is for the V120 shaft. I like it with the M120 shaft as it goes in very deep and will never develop any play between it and the shaft.
The follower is slid into place and held with 2 screws. They are the same thread as the feathering shaft scews, but I found some nice flat head ones that were the right length.
The follower can be adjusted for height, but the topmost position is pretty ideal for the m120 setup, everyone may vary though.
Next up, some pics of it on the machine when I get a chance.







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Old 04-10-2011, 01:49 PM   #33 (permalink)
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That's great! Does it weigh about the same as the HW head? I hope you can get a good deal worked out to get these produced. Looking forward to some on heli shots, and a vid
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Old 04-10-2011, 07:15 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Here are some shots of the head on my M120.







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Old 04-10-2011, 07:40 PM   #35 (permalink)
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This is a 2 part simple setup video I made for the head on an M120. The same concepts apply for the Heli-Worx head and even the stock head and a V120 as well. It should help many people understand the basics of setting up the head with the 2801 radio.

Part 1 of 2

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W5QS4iFdeZU[/ame]

Part 2 of 2

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M88p7lhlhJc[/ame]
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Old 04-12-2011, 04:07 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snemi00 View Post
This is a 2 part simple setup video I made for the head on an M120. The same concepts apply for the Heli-Worx head and even the stock head and a V120 as well. It should help many people understand the basics of setting up the head with the 2801 radio.

Thanks snemi00, very informative and useful.

I like using the travel adj. much better than messing with the pitch curve.
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Old 04-12-2011, 07:33 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Thanks snemi00, very informative and useful.

I like using the travel adj. much better than messing with the pitch curve.
Thanks for the feedback chevell.
I was thinking I should have posted these videos in a new thread for people to see as the info is not really specific to my head design.
I shake my head every time I read somewhere about pitch curves going to 67% or 81% or being at a number other than 50% at mid stick for idle up. This is just wrong.
The proper pitch curve is 0-100% linear in order to get your +/-12deg or whatever max amount of pitch you want. This is the way every model heli is setup and it should be no different for a Walkera.
If you want less pitch you just adjust the overall amount of travel with either the travel adjust or with dual rates.
It's too bad that Walkera does not print this important setup information in their manuals, but I guess I'm expecting too much of them to explain the features of their receiver and radio.
It's pretty simple once you see it.

Set a 0-100% straight curve for your hold curve.
Flick your switch into throttle hold and go to mid-stick exactly.
Use the pitch sub trim setting to set the midpoint and have the servo arms as close to 90 as possible.
Set your travel adjust for pitch to whatever number gives you the amount of max pitch you want.
Done.

Just a few minutes spent watching the videos should make it clear.

To me it is fundamental to understand this and will make everything so much easier.
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Old 04-16-2011, 08:49 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Rainy day here today, so instead of doing my taxes like my wife said to do, I spent some time in the workshop again.
The custom head I have made is working out really well and I've had many successful flights with it. I'm happy with it as is, there's not much more that can be done that would improve performance much. I realise that not everyone is going to want to go and spend more money to change out the heads on their machines. So I wanted to make a follower/ swash lock that would work on the stock V120/M120 head setup. Of course, this is nothing new, we have seen them from chevell and Kopteri2010 among others but I wanted to do it a little different. The follower really needs to sit up higher than the bottom of the head in order to be centered in the pitch links properly to get max pitch and cyclic throw.

Taking a look at the stock head you can see that it is flattened in profile. This flat can be used to locate a phase lock follower in place without having to set it by eye or aligning to flats on the shaft like the Walkera washout. This makes it kind of idiot proof and it really cannot go out of adjustment.
I machined the follower out of aluminum and used a taper mill to create the pocket that the head locates into, as the head is slightly tapered. This pocket not only locates but allows the follower to be located that small amount higher that it needs to be. The result actually surprised me as to how well it fit and functions.

After making it and testing, I really figured this can be a DIY for someone that wants to take it on in plastic. I have a piece of delrin I'm going to try it on, but if you have a nice chunk of plastic around give it a shot. With the right thickness, you don't need to make a pocket, just cut a squarish hole right through it and it will wedge onto the head because of it being tapered. Then you can place a mainshaft collar under the head to make sure your follower doesn't slip down and you're set.
watch the video and you'll see what I'm talking about.







[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09RI9YXC07c[/ame]
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Old 04-17-2011, 12:32 PM   #39 (permalink)
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That's sweet! Great idea
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Old 04-17-2011, 05:20 PM   #40 (permalink)
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That's great! Does it weigh about the same as the HW head? I hope you can get a good deal worked out to get these produced. Looking forward to some on heli shots, and a vid
Well, I got around to weighing the head today.

The stock walkera head plus exploding stabiliser 1.63g



The Walkera head with MicroHeli stabiliser is also amazingly exactly 1.63g



My custom made head 1.36g



I don't have a Heli-Worx head here to weigh, but I would be interested to see what it weighs all up if anyone gets a chance and has an accurate scale.
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