Carbon Fiber Frame - Build

[freakinnovice]

Haven't had a chance to fly it yet.
-----------

How about now, you can't leave us hanging like this. This is the most important part.

Thanks for the awesome thread.

[Big Fil]

Sorry for the suspense. Believe me I want to fly this thing more than anyone. I have been dying to know if there are any perceivable differences in how it flys. I was really looking forward to getting some time in on it this weekend but had a vibe issue crop up.

While trying to isolate the source of the vibe I decided to reset the pinion and ended up stripping the set screw . Guess there's a first time for everything, but it was frustrating to say the least. Anyway between that and other things conspiring against my time i did not get a proper flight on it this weekend. The stripped set screw has been removed so hopefully I find the source of the vibe and get it back in the air this week.

[sgrim80]

So what's the general feeling about grounding the tail boom now that there is a CF frame and aluminum boom block? No grounding needed? Too early to tell?

[Big Fil]

Before grounding mine I checked with a voltmeter and found no connection between the tail and the frame. You may be able to scrape away some material on the boom and inside of the boom clamp to get some continuity between the two. Not sure how much the clear coat on the CF acts as an insulator though.

[Primus]

Yes, but even if you have to use the grounding kit, it will WAY much easy to connect to the boom ( boom mount) and to the motor mount.

On the plastic frame this is awful with that screw an wires coming out.

[hawkins221]

correct fil. Just sand a spot so the bare alu and carbon touch. Did the same with my trex.

[Blink 182]

Can you post more pictures with the canopy on?

After seeing the KAOS frames (made the logo look ugly) im intrested in seeing how these look from the side.

[freakinnovice]

Originally Posted by Big Fil

I really like the way the new frame looks with the canopy on.

[CNCjunkie]

Very nice build thread.

I'd like to see an up close of the 3rd bearing if you have a shot of that. Looking at my Logo, the main shaft just barely sticks out from the bottom of the auto hub.

If it's how I'm picturing it in my head, there isn't much engagement of the main shaft into the bearing. And if that's the case, I wonder if Mikado will come out with a longer main shaft.

[Big Fil]

CNCjunkie - The shaft sits about halfway into the 3rd bearing. The snap ring is no longer used. I'll try to get a shot of it but it may be tomorrow before I can get to it.

Blink182 - I'll try to get a side shot of the CF 600SE next to a stock 600 for comparison.

[CNCjunkie]

Thanks Big Fil, that would be great!

It makes more sense to me now knowing the snap ring isn't used.

[Breezyjr]

Just got mine, about 10 minutes ago....

Also, I'm replacing a KAOS frame, if anyone is interested, I'll get side by side pics. But, what I can tell right away, the Logo frame has the main shaft slightly angled forward, where the KAOS frame the main shaft is perpendicular to the frame.

It will be nice to keep my tail off the ground now! One of the many things I hated about my KAOS frame.

Breezyjr

[sgrim80]

I'm sure people would love side by side Kaos/Mikado CF frame pics!

[mahbouni]

Originally Posted by jerstolp

12s5000 is too heavy for even the 600se 12s 4000 is more like it, or 12s3000-3500 for the 600

I think ti flies better on 12s 5000. I don't see how it can be too heavy when it's still several hundred grams lighter than any other 700.

[LITHIUMSTATIC]

Originally Posted by mahbouni

I think ti flies better on 12s 5000. I don't see how it can be too heavy when it's still several hundred grams lighter than any other 700.

I think weight being important is highly subjective to flying style, to an extent. In all honesty some extra weight is preferred if your wanting a smoother, more stable flying feel. If you want something you can toss around then lighter is always better, again to an extent.

[Big Fil]

Originally Posted by LITHIUMSTATIC

I think weight being important is highly subjective to flying style, to an extent. In all honesty some extra weight is preferred if your wanting a smoother, more stable flying feel. If you want something you can toss around then lighter is always better, again to an extent.

Exactly Lith! Well said

For example, a guy at our field flys has a 600SE with 2x6s 5000 Turnigy packs. I've flown it several times now and while heavier than I prefer my own, it still flies well and he is happy with it.

[Brooklyn Z]

snap ring is definitely needed!

[hawkins221]

i love the frame,
was tossing my 5003d around today,damn it,s a monster now love it, an extra bit of wieght won,t be to bad,

[mahbouni]

Originally Posted by Big Fil

Exactly Lith! Well said

For example, a guy at our field flys has a 600SE with 2x6s 5000 Turnigy packs. I've flown it several times now and while heavier than I prefer my own, it still flies well and he is happy with it.

Agreed it is subjective. Mine weighs 3.7Kg with 12s 4000 and 4.1Kg with 12s 5000. That was with a 375g Pyro 700-45, which has gone back to Kontronik for replacement bearings and a longer shaft.

Did you know that Kontronik are making a special shaft to fit the counter bearing for the Logo? Miakdo are selling it as the 700-45LS.

http://shop.mikado-heli.de/e-vendo.p...&c=4753&p=4753

Anyway, while my Pyro is away I have been using this big mother of a motor, a 546g Scorpion 5025-440. To be honest, I do notice a weight difference with this motor and the 5000mAh packs. The climbs are just as fast but the stops are noticably slower. So I am looking forward to putting my Pyro back in it.

For that reason I am also concerned about the weight of the new CF frame. I know it was said that it weighs 150g more than the plastic frame but you can't compare a bare plastic frame to a CF one with all the metal parts attached to it, so I'd like to know the weight difference after everything is installed. Lets hope someone can posy AUW's before and after the upgrade.

[NTM]

Originally Posted by Big Fil

The stripped set screw has been removed so hopefully I find the source of the vibe and get it back in the air this week.

Hey Fil, I'm just building mine right now and noticed that if you don't loosen all the bolts for the bearing blocks and insert a main shaft to align them, and then tighten carefully, you can get quite a bit of binding. This'd show up as vibration for sure.
You kind of have to build it like you would a protos.

For static discharge resistance you can sand the anodizing off of the inside of the boom clamp, the boom where it touches the clamp, and the insides of the bolt holes for the frame stiffener to boom clamp bolt, and the frame stiffener to motor mount bolt.
Works a treat, continuity from the (grounded to boom) tailbox right to the motor mount with no wires.

Originally Posted by mahbouni

I think ti flies better on 12s 5000. I don't see how it can be too heavy when it's still several hundred grams lighter than any other 700.

I actually prefer the way my trex 700e flies for hard smack flying at 11 pounds over the 600se at 9 pounds.
But to get the "pop and lock" performance with the 700e, you have to run 2100 to 2200 rpm headspeed.
If you try to run the 600se with heavier packs in the 10+ pound range, you need more headspeed than 1900 or it's pretty doggy performance wise. The blade bolts bend and the thrust bearings die if you go much past 1900 rpm and fly aggressively.
Heck, with 12s 5000mah packs and only 1900 rpm I was still tearing one ways and dampers up like crazy. And the performance was mediocre at best.
1400 grams of pack is the sweet spot with the 600se...