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mCP X Blade Micro CPx Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 12-31-2011, 07:55 PM   #201 (permalink)
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Thank you for your help Heli-Tweak and traknoob. Your answers are very helpful. I feel better knowing what I don't have to worry about.

I'm still having odd power fluctuations with my mCPX. I could buy the "catch-up" idea, but I get power changes even when my hands are off the throttle. Some times the power drops sharply lower, stays at the lower speed for 20 or 30 seconds, then revs back up. Other times the motor will revs up sharply for 20 seconds or so before quickly returning to a lower RMP. The motor will also periodically cut out, for maybe 1/10 of a second or so. During these changes I'm only making minor adjustments to cyclic controls and nothing on the collective/rudder control.

I've checked all the wiring and everything looks OK.

Could this be the batteries? They are stock e-Flight batteries that came with the heli. Any suggestions on better batteries?

cheers,
Scott.
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Old 01-02-2012, 01:09 AM   #202 (permalink)
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Thank you for the information on up and down shaft play. This happened to my MCPx after a crash and I became concerned about the erratic behavior (dives and lifts) and the increased throttle it took to get off the ground and hover over previous flights. I am new to heli flying but I knew something was not right. I've been looking for the answers and finally found them here. I knew this had to be a common problem. My hard landing wasn't that bad. It didn't even pop the linkages, but the main gear did slip. I didn't know to check the lining up of the flat spot and the gear. I hope I don't have to take the main gear and shaft off. Oh well, I suppose it's not that big a deal, just sounds big.

Anyway tnx again.. Maq
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Old 01-02-2012, 06:27 AM   #203 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by maq007 View Post
but the main gear did slip. I didn't know to check the lining up of the flat spot and the gear. I hope I don't have to take the main gear and shaft off. Oh well, I suppose it's not that big a deal, just sounds big.

Anyway tnx again.. Maq
Just hold the top by the blade grips firm and using other hand turn the bottom main gear until the flat aligns up.
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Old 01-02-2012, 09:19 AM   #204 (permalink)
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Actually, yes it's ground off, and yes it was done in manufacturing, but yes, it was ALSO done deliberately, to obfuscate the part information. It just makes for one more thing the pirates have to do if they want to clone the design. It's sometimes an ugly world out there.
No its not ground off, No it was not done deliberately, to “obfuscate” to confuse, bewilder, or stupefy. To make obscure or unclear. But yes was produced during manufacturing not deliberately.



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Old 01-02-2012, 10:44 AM   #205 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Heli-Tweak View Post
The main blades do suddenly spin up and can be quite alarming at first until you get used to this; I am not sure if you can program a soft start like the bigger helicopters via the ESC, but I suspect not.
Actually it does a soft-start automatically if you switch to idle up with collective all the way down. It's not as soft as, say my Gaui X5's 'super-soft start', but it's enough to keep the heli from spinning around under torque.

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Power fluctuations during hover, I think this may be down to your transmitter setting playing catch up, in other words you raise the throttle then lower, before the brains of the board have realised.
Hardly. This is ridiculous on it's face -- if there was enough latency in the electronics to cause a noticeable lag between physical throttle movement and the response of the "Brains of the board" , that would be a pretty worthless implementation.

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Chip ID, I agree it does look like this number has been ground off, but on closer inspection these marks look uniformed suggesting this was produced during manufacturing not deliberately.
Actually, grinding may or may not have been done on chips for this board by the mfgr at this point, but it very much is standard practice on 'bleeding edge' items that are targets for pirating. I also do seem to recall that that was the case for Mcpx at initial release, based on some folks trying to reverse engineer the three axis system. For my reply, I was going strictly on his description, not on any personal inspection/verification. In any event, the bottom line is that such artifacts are no cause for alarm.

Any "confusion" or "bewildering" that is going on is probably a result of your own misinformation.
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Old 01-02-2012, 09:57 PM   #206 (permalink)
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Main Gear Slippage

Hi All!!

I repaired my MCPx without difficulty. It was not as difficult as I thought it might be. 1.) I took off the cowling and landing gear/skids. 2.) I gently pried off the main gear with a standard screwdriver because it had slipped down and turned 90 deg so that the flat spot on the main gear did not match the flat area on the main shaft. 3.) I then placed the main gear on the shaft in the correct positon and while having my thumbs on the Heli Head, I pressed the main gear up to its limitt with my middle fingers. 4.). I then replaced the landing gear and cowling and was ready for a test flight.

The heli flew a bit more stable and for some reason took less power to get off the ground and maintain a hover.

I am very happy with this helicopter, the way it flies, the product support and the great help you get on this forum through threads like this one!!

Thanks to all of you...Maq
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Old 01-04-2012, 08:40 PM   #207 (permalink)
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Hi all!
I recently purchased a Blade mCP X and the blades are not flat/balanced and it takes full throttle to take off and then falls over.

This is what it looks normally:


This is what its supposed to look like (I got it flat by turning the TX off first and then when it reconnects they go crooked again):
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Old 01-05-2012, 03:50 AM   #208 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by JMull View Post
Hi all!
I recently purchased a Blade mCP X and the blades are not flat/balanced and it takes full throttle to take off and then falls over.

This is what it looks normally: This is full negative (I assume you have the throttle stick full closed?)


This is what its supposed to look like (I got it flat by turning the TX off first and then when it reconnects they go crooked again): This would be centre stick on the tx and the natural centre point from the servos which is why they are there with no Tx input.
the full collective to lift off sounds like mine after a crash and what usually causes it is the main gear has slipped down the shaft.

is there any vertical play if you hold the rotor head in one hand and the model in the other and lift the rotor up and down. there should be none. if there is hold the heli upside down and see if the main gear is sitting on the shaft properly, there is a flat on the shaft and the gear they should match. then still holding the bird upside down push the top of the rotor head and the main gear together, mine usually makes a clicking noise when it actually snaps back into place.

the alternative if this all comes out fine is to go into throttle hold, centre the stick and see where your pitch is, then go full up and full down and make sure you have the same movement each way, this can be easier if you fold the blades back so they are in line with each other and you can then measure the gap between the blades it should be 0 at centre stick and then the same at each end of the stick movement.

if it isn't centred then you need to trim the helicopter either with the tx or better with the tx trims centred and do it mechanically by changing the length of the pushrods. I reckon that there is either some unwanted trim on the Tx or more likely the main gear has slipped down giving enough slop to throw the amount of collective out of wack.

hope this helps
Steve
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Old 01-06-2012, 12:09 PM   #209 (permalink)
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I had slight crash. I also noticed a little bit o vibration before the crash. Now it vibrates so bad it hardly flys. I changed the battery and tried it again started off predict. Then the vibration came back and allmost crashed. Everything seems to be ok. What could this be?
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Old 01-08-2012, 01:46 AM   #210 (permalink)
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Check to make sure the gear is pushed all the way up and rebind the heli.
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Old 01-08-2012, 10:42 AM   #211 (permalink)
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oppss wrong quot :-/
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Old 01-08-2012, 10:47 AM   #212 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMull View Post
Hi all!
I recently purchased a Blade mCP X and the blades are not flat/balanced and it takes full throttle to take off and then falls over.

This is what it looks normally:


This is what its supposed to look like (I got it flat by turning the TX off first and then when it reconnects they go crooked again):

MMMMmmha ha ha ,,,, Sorry,,,,, Unless you have filliped the pics the Blades are on backwards
he he he ,, sorry again :-)

Ho you have, funny way to spell blade :-)
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Old 01-08-2012, 05:38 PM   #213 (permalink)
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Spent a good hour searching this thread but couldn't come up with the answer I was looking for.

sorry if this has been addressed already, but has any one had any issues with rudder control?

If I hold the heli in place, give it some throttle and then go full right or left on the rudder I get nothing, occasionally if I let the blades spin and rotate the heli by hand the rudder will turn on by itself but Ihave no control from the stick.

Last edited by Liduno; 01-08-2012 at 07:04 PM..
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Old 01-10-2012, 07:16 AM   #214 (permalink)
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Check the tail motor connection to the board?
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Old 01-10-2012, 11:45 AM   #215 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Spoto View Post
Check the tail motor connection to the board?
Thanks spoto, I think i may have fixed it last night, here is my post from another thread

Quote:
After two successful flights, I think I have it fixed [fingers crossed] What I did may not be recommended but I was frustrated and willing to risk it..lol

I unplugged the rudder motor and the main motor from the board, then I plugged the rudder motor into the the port that the main motor was in.

I wanted to see if I could get the rudder motor to spin using the throttle channel, well it worked, so i know the motor is good.

Then I plugged the main motor into the rudder port and it worked using the rudder stick, to be honest this confused me because it confirmed that both the channel and the motor worked.

Now here is the strange part!!! I plugged both the rudder and the main motor back into the ports they belonged in and all of the sudden every thing worked as it was supposed to, not for long though...

I made a few floor maneuvers just to make sure every thing was working properly and after a minute or so the rudder stopped working again, I repeated the plug switch test I described above one more time and now the copter is flying perfectly...lol

I originally thought it was a problem with the board but now I'm thinking maybe there was either something on the plug or maybe even just a moisture problem, it's been a little foggy and moist at night so who knows.

I hope I dont end up needing a board, it's the only expensive part on the whole copter..lol
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Old 01-12-2012, 11:33 AM   #216 (permalink)
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Make sure to glue the connectors back together. You don't want those come loose on such a small heli causing erratic flight
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Old 01-12-2012, 11:49 AM   #217 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by wkma7six View Post
Make sure to glue the connectors back together. You don't want those come loose on such a small heli causing erratic flight
Since buying this thing I have commandeered my girls hot glue gun..lol
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Old 01-12-2012, 06:09 PM   #218 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by DudeInMyrtleBeach View Post
One thing to note with this heli is that if you take off and fly in idle up, you can touch the right stick anytime you want to.

The 3 in 1 will soft start then, you can bring it to about 50% pitch (left mid stick - you do have 0 pitch at mid stick, right?) while still on the ground. The heli will get light on the skids, and you can adjust the right stick in any way you want to achieve a nice, smooth, slow (or fast - your choice) completely perfect vertical take off.

If I had it to do all over again, there's one thing I wish someone had told me: Do not try to control the speed and actions of this heli with throttle. Control them with DR/Expo and pitch. Fly in idle up. If I would have started out with this philosophy, I would have saved tons of money on parts.

Taking off in normal mode, and 'popping' it up in the air just so you can get control is BS, and it's dangerous. You don't have to do it this way. As a matter of fact, if you're new, this can be a good way to go flying into a wall. Or your own face like I did lol.

I busted the shit out of my first mcpx thinking that I was 'supposed' to be able to just pop it up in the air and hover. Not happening with this heli - none of my mcpx's will do this in normal mode. I can take off, slow or fast and *perfect* every time by the method above. You can too.
Very interesting. Having time in R-22, this is how you really come to hover.
Lift collective, reset, cyclic, lc/rc lc/rc. For me, solo,. full fuel, the last thing on the ground is the left front skid. R-22 is speed governed, linked with the collective, you fly by rotor rpm and blade pitch.

What I don't understand is the radios, 3D concepts, inverted flight, etc.
So, please bear with me.

I have the RTF radio, DX4e. Are you saying that if I flip the AUX switch, I'll get a constant full speed motor? IAC, I was following along, until you said normal mode. I thought the AUX switch was for inverted and other tricks. Sorry, a noob question.
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Old 01-13-2012, 09:34 AM   #219 (permalink)
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Well, solved that myself. What a difference. OK, got my throttle servo reversed so i'm picking it up with collective.

High rate....what about the MIx switch? Will that help?
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Old 01-13-2012, 10:14 PM   #220 (permalink)
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What I did to center my pitch just as I would do on any of my big helis. I first level the swashplate ( I had to lower the rear ball link two turns to get my swashplate level). Then raise all three ball links equally until I got my blades level at mid stick. ( I had to turn them out two full turns for this). You don't need any special tools just eyeball it and you will be fine. ( do this with the power off so you don't stress the servos)
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