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mCP X Blade Micro CPx Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 08-30-2012, 11:30 PM   #281 (permalink)
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Paul, I do not exactly understand what you are suggesting that I do...I don't really know what this means: "the 3 in 1 board looks for a hard coded aileron and elevator cyclic position as "neutral". It does not take what it sees on power up as neutral "

from the beginning and right now, I have 0 trim settings on my tx. I thought this was the way to go because the heli is FBL? So are you saying that I should just try to use my aileron trim setting to counteract the bird wanting to roll?? I haven't tried that because I thought you weren't supposed to mess with trim on fbl helis
The flybarless system is basically two heading hold gyros. They attempt to hold the last commanded position and interpret cyclic commands as attitude change requests. If the gyros see a non-zero aileron, they will attempt to roll the heli continuously.

Some heading hold gyros recognize the stick positions seen at power up as "neutral". The 3 in 1 does not... it looks for a hard coded position. If the stick position sent by the transmitter with the sticks neutralized does not agree with what the gyros are expecting when no attitude change is being requested (ie., neutral), they will attempt to move the heli continuously as you describe.

Normally, the transmitter and gyros are calibrated so that with zero trim and subtrim, the gyros see that as neutral. But it is possible that something changed and your transmitter isn't sending what the gyros expect for "neutral" (ie., no movement) or vice versa. Try trimming out the drift and see if that works. If not, then you may indeed have a 3 in 1 issue.

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Old 09-02-2012, 05:07 PM   #282 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by pgoelz View Post
The flybarless system is basically two heading hold gyros. They attempt to hold the last commanded position and interpret cyclic commands as attitude change requests. If the gyros see a non-zero aileron, they will attempt to roll the heli continuously.

Some heading hold gyros recognize the stick positions seen at power up as "neutral". The 3 in 1 does not... it looks for a hard coded position. If the stick position sent by the transmitter with the sticks neutralized does not agree with what the gyros are expecting when no attitude change is being requested (ie., neutral), they will attempt to move the heli continuously as you describe.

Normally, the transmitter and gyros are calibrated so that with zero trim and subtrim, the gyros see that as neutral. But it is possible that something changed and your transmitter isn't sending what the gyros expect for "neutral" (ie., no movement) or vice versa. Try trimming out the drift and see if that works. If not, then you may indeed have a 3 in 1 issue.

Paul
well...color me surprised...

I tried correcting for the roll using trim settings on my tx, and damned if it didn't work! I guess because the roll is so consistent (always to the same side, always with the same speed) my tx's aileron trim can compensate for it.

Thanks for the suggestion, Paul. I would have never tried that, as I thought it was a golden rule to not use any trim when dealing with a fbl heli.
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Old 09-02-2012, 11:50 PM   #283 (permalink)
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Cool

I bought my mcpx2 a month ago and have about twenty flites on it. Great flying little heli!
I've had a few issues with it but still love it. One problem I noticed was a jumping feel, slight but always there. I found the rear servo rod(the straight one) was just slightly touching the top of the servo causing drag. Bent rod a touch and adjusted swash , all good!
Another one was that I didn't like the slop in the feathering shaft either so I shortened the shaft( bloody small to work with) The result was a vibration I couldn't get out even zero balancing blades etc. I reinstalled stock feathering shaft and vibration gone, oh well....
Something I need help with is when I do a big high fast loop and as I'm coming over the top
And put full (both full stick back) the motor just shuts off. Crash. Won't recover either but when I put it back in normal flight mode, throttle down it will start again. ( stunt 1 mode when this happens)
Any ideas? I was wondering if I was getting a voltage drop or something like that.
All three batteries I use are new 200 mah. No extra heating of wires or connecter.
Maybe I should go to a 300 mah battery?
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:16 PM   #284 (permalink)
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Hi. I'm new to the mcpx (and the forum),Ii broke my tail boom recently and was wondering what replacement I should fit. I'm having major problems with TBE when doing acro and when using a lot of collective. Does a longer boom work? Thanks.
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Old 01-03-2013, 09:23 PM   #285 (permalink)
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I have a mcpx2 with about forty flights on it. it is rolling uncontrollably to the right as soon as throttle is applied. at rest, with battery in, swash stays level. as soon as any throttle is given the swash begins tilting right until the full travel is reached. if I use collective to tilt the swash back level or even full left, as soon as I release the stick it creeps back full right. (all of this is happening on the bench, as flight is not possible right now). it started doing this all at once, mid-flight, causing a crash.

tried re-binding several times. re-binding was successful each time, but did not help the problem.

then I switched the plugs for the two aileron servos to see if the servo was the problem. that did not stop the unwanted action, just reversed it (uncontrollable roll left, instead of right).

According to the first page of this thread, I need a new 3-1 board, right?

I think I know that I need a new 3-1, but I wanted to get confirmation from some of you guys before dropping $70 on a part. I've read all pertinent threads here, but a lot of them seem to have dated info (2011) and I wanted to make sure my diagnosis was right for the 2012 version 2 board.

Thanks for the help!!!
Hi, do you mean you swapped AILE and PITCH servo plugs? and now rolling to left.
Well, if you swapped servos and roll swapped opposite direction, can you disassemble the servo for cleaning?
If so, you will find the feedback potentiometer (the resistor, a black carbon stripe and a tiny sliding contact or wiper taking special care on that wiper). Don't spray contact cleaner directly on it, worse if weather is cold, the spray will freeze plastic and will break it. Better to spray it on a cotton swap/bud and rub it or instead, use rubbing alcohol or ammonia. Also and carefully (with little presure) using only the red rubber from a pencil could help.
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Old 02-28-2013, 03:24 AM   #286 (permalink)
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Was hoping to see the most known trait..tail blowout..hh even released an extended boom they sell now. Possible fix 7mm tail motor from another heli tail motor along with v2 tail blade/upgraded batteries for less bogging.
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Old 03-20-2013, 01:54 PM   #287 (permalink)
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Default mCPx pitching backwards

I have seen a few post with this, and no answer...Just seeing if anything new has come up.

With new battery, heli is fully controllable, nice hover...can even take hands off sticks. After a few minutes of flight, it starts to pitch backwards, slowly at first, then I counter, it straightens for a second then pitches again when I stop the input to push forward. There does not seem to be a way to stop it...It gets so bad and fast that I cannot keep it in the air.
I have tried disconnecting the battery and re connecting to reset things...will still pull back...Tried a new battery, same thing...Only leaving it sit for a while makes it work again, and only for a short time, and everything starts over.
I removed all the blades and run the heli at a little over half throttle in Standard mode. Little by little the pitch moves forward (yes...forward without the blades). If I lift the heli and move it from side to side... the gyro kicks in and tries to straighten as would be expected, but it continues to gain forward pitch.

I have checked my transmitter and there is NO trim set.
And it hasn't always been like this...just started a couple of weeks or so ago.
I just don't want to buy a board, and it does the same thing



Thanks Steve
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Old 04-10-2013, 04:33 PM   #288 (permalink)
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Just had my 3 in 1 go out. 1 week old, no massive wrecks or anything. HH is sending a replacement board, this is why I have so many of their products.
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Old 04-11-2013, 05:35 PM   #289 (permalink)
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Just had my 3 in 1 go out. 1 week old, no massive wrecks or anything. HH is sending a replacement board, this is why I have so many of their products.
You like HH products because they fail within a week?
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Old 04-11-2013, 07:08 PM   #290 (permalink)
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You like HH products because they fail within a week?
I caught his drift lol. I've never had anything break in a week, but the very few times I've dealt with HH I've been very pleased with their customer service. Least they didn't shine him on lol
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Old 04-12-2013, 11:20 PM   #291 (permalink)
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Default A few issues I have run into and what I did

Though I am far from expert and haven't gotten into 3D yet (bought the MCPx to practice so I wouldn't have the repair costs on my Trex 600), I do have some observations that might be helpful.

1. SWASH After reading all the problems with the swash being sloppy, my LHS advised that the first thing to do was get a metal swash. I got the microheli version and doesn't have the slop of the HH version. While it was $20+ it was a lot cheaper than repairing a lot of crashes. It also has the advantage of having the links go through an enclosed metal loop on each side so while I have had some links pop from a ball, I have never had one pop off both sides and get lost. I did discover that the loops are a little thinner than the linkages so I had to sand down the face of the links a little but now it slides through just fine.

2. GEAR The HH landing gear is very flimsy so I ended up ordering some from Airtime RC. While they are not absolutely indestructible, (after a lot of use, the post cracked off in the frame) they are much, much better than the stock landing gear. The guy makes them himself and they are much more sturdy than HH's. He has a very funny video at: https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=399798.

3. FRAME I bought the RKH Rakon CF mainframe for the MCPx thinking that ti would allow me to convert to brushless someday and in the meantime be lighter and stronger than the HH frame with which I had problems with canopy mounting rods breaking or bending. I found it to be more trouble than it was worth. The first time I used the instruction sheet's recommended mounting holes for the MCPx stock motor. Like the stock HH frame, the mounting holes are round not permitting adjustment of the motor/gear mesh. The gear mesh seemed tight, but I wrote that off to just the usual MCPx click-click-click as you rotate the blades or gear by hand caused by the very strong magnets in the motor. Well, it turns out that it was way too tight. The first time I tried to fly it the main motor fried. So, I wrote to Rakon and they suggested I use the other set of holes which are oval and adjust the motor until it was properly meshed. The problem with that suggestion is that unlike the stock frame which has a cage to hold the motor vertical, the RKH frame holds the motor with two motor mount heatsinks and there is a tiny,tiny screw that you use to tighten the mount around the motor. Having had an experience tightening similar screws on another RKH product and having the head break off, I was cautious about tightening them too much. I was never able to get the motor to stay perfectly vertical. It would always slip. The pinion and maingear would therefore not stay in adjustment. Between that and the fact that the CF rods they use for canopy mounts kept slipping too, I got disgusted and junked it and went back to the (overpriced IMO) stock HH frame.

4. Main gear After went back to the stock frame, I flew it for a while and noticed that after a few flights, I couldn't get the heli off the ground. The main gear kept sliding a bit on the main shaft and would lose enough mesh with the pinion that it wouldn't give full power at the head. Sometimes I could cure it by pressing the main gear back on the shaft but not always. Sometimes even pressing it all the way up the shaft, I still would not get the heli off the ground. I read enough posts about similar issues that I bought the Microheli delron gear which has a metal mount and screw that holds it tight against the main shaft. After putting it on, I noticed that it was not as tight as the stock HH gear which was apparently a hair too big. Anyway, with the new gear I have plenty of power and the maingear doesn't slip down any more.

5. The tail motor plug I had a main board go out and HH sent me a new one. When it comes from the factory, HH puts a dab of silicon glue on the main and tail motor plugs so they do not pull out of the socket. Once I took that off to mount the new board, while the main plug stays in place, the tail motor plug keeps coming out of the socket even in very mild impacts with soft things likes chairs or drapes, etc. I have seen posts that suggest tinning the prongs on the plug. I have not tried that. I put a little hot glue on to replace the silicon glue from the factory which works pretty well though it isn't easy to limit the amount of glue and it looks a little sloppy.

6. Boom One of the other things I did first, at the suggestion of the LHS was to replace the stock boom with the longer HH tail boom. I have not experienced any tail blowout but as of yet I have not tried any 3d.

Even with all the above described issues, I like the MCPx a lot. I will try some of the other things I have read in the long string of posts.
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Old 04-24-2013, 03:31 PM   #292 (permalink)
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My MCPx with a brushed motor suddenly started spinning. I first suspected a bad tail motor, but that (a new one) is working fine. When I hold the MCPx and spool it up, it works fine for a while, but then the frequency of the sound of the main motor drops and the tail jerks back and forth. I probably have more than 100 flights on this main motor. Is this problem likely caused by worn out brushes? Is it difficult to replace the main motor?
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Old 04-25-2013, 03:52 PM   #293 (permalink)
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ive read a few guys have close to 400 or more flights on originals. one thing i read was to pull the antenna off the canopy mount and straighten it and route it into a different location, ive moved mine but not very far just straightened it out some but so far its fine. just an idea
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Old 04-28-2013, 01:45 AM   #294 (permalink)
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Starting to realize how lucky I got on my first Blade purchase. My Original V1 MCPX was a dream come true. The used one I just got off of the for sale forum has put me here searching this thread. Swash tilt problem.

Since I had a MCPX already since before my join date I figured I no longer needed this thread. LOL. Seems me and my new to me MCPX V1 board are getting off on the wrong foot.

Swash tilts right much like the bad 130x firmware issue that can be fixed with sub trim. Only sub trim does not fix this on this bird. Cleaned the servo's, Tried a rebind 6 Times, sub trim and different packs. Checked for Vibes and also stripped the bird right down and checked EVERYTHING! Now thinking servo swap. And another rebind.

If that don't fix it I will re-flow my 3in1. Seems to be a voltage issue as it comes and goes during flight. Might also be a broken trace.
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Old 04-28-2013, 06:46 AM   #295 (permalink)
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If that don't fix it I will re-flow my 3in1.
How do you do that - or do you send it out?
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Old 04-28-2013, 03:28 PM   #296 (permalink)
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Double post
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Old 04-28-2013, 03:29 PM   #297 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Sky Blue Lou View Post
How do you do that - or do you send it out?





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Old 04-28-2013, 09:39 PM   #298 (permalink)
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Nice pictures. I think I'm familiar with reflow as a concept. I have no idea how it's done. I guess if I really need to know I can google it.
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Old 04-28-2013, 10:17 PM   #299 (permalink)
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In case it is helpful to anyone:

With regards to slop in the swash, I have found the technique in this post to help.
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Old 04-28-2013, 11:17 PM   #300 (permalink)
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Google is my friend.

You know there's lots of facets to this hobby that aren't about flying. New terminology and technologies, skills learned or relearned... I don't think reflowing a board will be one of them for me.

I have to draw a line somewhere. I'll pay the sixty bucks and get a new one.
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