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mCP X Blade Micro CPx Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 03-12-2011, 10:46 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Default servo Noise

Has any one noticed alot of servo noise on the mcp x when it is just sitting?
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Old 03-12-2011, 11:40 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Old 03-13-2011, 04:19 AM   #23 (permalink)
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I'll second the notion adjusting the swashplate links to get 0+/- i definitely the best way to go. It only take a moment - not much more than faffing with subtrim - and it's locked in from then on. I needed 28 clicks to get zero and decided to go the manual route. I can't say it works better but it definitely feels better.
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Old 03-13-2011, 11:06 AM   #24 (permalink)
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I'd recommend that everyone uses a dab of hot glue or something similar on all the female servo connectors on the board.

I couldn't figure what was wrong ntil I've examined the board closely.
With a few hard landings / crashes the upper PCB layer lets go resulting in intermittent connection to the servo.
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Old 03-13-2011, 01:32 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Good info. I am writing up a big update and will get it up tonight.
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Old 03-13-2011, 03:57 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Default weak swash plate

Third crash and bang rear ball on swashplate snapped off...looks like it is a major weak point since the local hobby store is sold out of swash plates already and they just got them and the mCPx in on Friday...%$#@...!

fix--- Buy extras... I am sure there will be an aluminum aftermarket out soon
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Old 03-13-2011, 04:54 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superjet112x View Post
put the align 250 bearings in mine this morning , flew all day, didnt have one bearing issue, yesterday when I got it, in 6 hrs I lost two bearings, GOOD CALL ON THE TREX 250 BEARINGS. THANX!!!!!
Which way did you install the 250 bearings? I do not have a set in hand on my MCPx yet so I am unfamiliar with had they go together.
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Old 03-13-2011, 07:21 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbennettya View Post
The correct way with 3 axis gyros is to not use trim or subtrim and level the swash with the cyclic servo rods and get 0* pitch.

YMMV, Don
Don,

I would normally agree, but here was my issue. Mine showed up from the factory with approx -4 degrees pitch at mid-stick. I had to add 60 clicks pitch sub-trim. Initially at mid-stick, the servos were only 3/8 up on travel (not in the center). If I would have adjusted links, the swash would have raised, but the servos would remain at 3/8 up the track and thus, be binding on the low end. After a sub-trim adjustment, at mid-stick, I was at 0 pitch at mid-stick and the servos were centered.

As an FYI- my other solution would have been to disassemble the servos and re-center.
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Old 03-13-2011, 08:05 PM   #29 (permalink)
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i had to do the same thing as (finskeeper) because like he said if i would have turned out the links my servos would have bottomed out on neg pitch..i have 36 clicks & 25 flights no problems....
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Old 03-13-2011, 11:58 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Man o man, This little mCP X had so mutch going for it. But this thing has more problem's than the SR, It seem's like atleast 8 out of 9 mCP X's have bad bearing's or some other problem with the head. I am saprised that the swash dosent seperate on it. lol That sux though, This little heli has so mutch going for it... I guess stuff like this is the reasion BLADE heli's are crap. "Just my opinion" I hope thay improve the bearing's on these thing's soon...
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Old 03-14-2011, 12:17 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Default stupid answer?

Why wouldn't you put the step washers on the outside of the ass'y and shave the inside butt of the blade to clear it? the end to end distace would be the same (spindle)...and it would hold it all together even with a bearing failure.
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Old 03-14-2011, 07:01 AM   #32 (permalink)
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my heli wags for a second when i apply fast cyclic movement with the 3d blades
not with bullet ones

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Old 03-14-2011, 09:01 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Well, you'd still need the step washers against the inner bearings as well. It would need them on both ends and to do this you would have to switch to a 4g6 feathering shaft since it's long enough, the stick one's too short and you have too few threads holding it together. The blade root would still need to be trimmed though.
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Old 03-14-2011, 12:07 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maRRRco View Post
my heli wags for a second when i apply fast cyclic movement with the 3d blades
not with bullet ones

i found this happens to mine when the blades are to tight (i think ) i made mine to where there are just tight enough to move extremely free and not bind AT ALL but not be wobbly in the grips. lol 1/16th of a turn can mean the diff between tight and this.
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Old 03-14-2011, 09:35 PM   #35 (permalink)
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I got mine today. Awesome little thing!!! So I went and tightned everything up. Everything was fine out of the box, which by most reports here, it was suprising! After a few flights and a few crashes, I decided to check the bearings.

Well, the feathering shaft just didnt want to come out. The screws were too tight. Becasue of this I broke the head off the screw. I have spares coming tomorrow, but I am bummed et greatful that thats the only thing.

Remember that these things are so small to take it easy when trying to uscrew the screw!
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Old 03-15-2011, 12:59 AM   #36 (permalink)
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I just picked one up to toy around with.... some hurricanes and then during a fast one blade holder seperated, what a POS lol. no other damage. BTW it was the bearing that broke.
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Old 03-15-2011, 07:00 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Mine won't change pitch or move the swash while the blades are moving. If the blades aren't moving it will, but often with a good amount of lag. Say a full second or two. Also the tail motor kicks out quite a bit. Because of these things, it has never gotten off the ground. All I can do is bring the throttle up, then cut it when it starts to tip over.

The thing wouldn't bind for 5 or 6 tries. I've bound 1 MSR, another MSR 3 times, 2 4Sites twice each, and a Vapor twice. All on the first try, because it's dead simple.
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Old 03-15-2011, 08:04 AM   #38 (permalink)
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I am having the same issue with my mcpx. I can throttle up but it will flip over on its side. I lost a blade grip and waiting for a replacement.

Any ideas on how to fix the problem of the side flip I am getting? I also have the RTF model.
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Old 03-15-2011, 10:59 AM   #39 (permalink)
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I've read that the "keepers" on the top of the servo shaft can come loose causing funky handling and vibes, luckily they're threaded on these servos unlike the MSR one's, an can be tighter back down. If you're having issues and all of the normal things look good then this is another place to check.
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Old 03-15-2011, 11:38 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twinsen View Post
Mine won't change pitch or move the swash while the blades are moving. If the blades aren't moving it will, but often with a good amount of lag. Say a full second or two. Also the tail motor kicks out quite a bit. Because of these things, it has never gotten off the ground. All I can do is bring the throttle up, then cut it when it starts to tip over.

The thing wouldn't bind for 5 or 6 tries. I've bound 1 MSR, another MSR 3 times, 2 4Sites twice each, and a Vapor twice. All on the first try, because it's dead simple.
Remove the links going to the blade grips. Rotate the grips by hand and feel for any notchiness in the bearings. If so, dissassemble the head but leave the rubber dampers in their respective pockets on the rotor head. Looking from the top directly over the rotor head, the dampers should be close to flush with the outer edges of their pockets, if not they can and will cause binding since the whole grip assembly mounts against them.

On the otherhand, the dampers must not be so thin that it causes the brass step washer to fall inside the pocket. If so this will elminate the dampers purpose.
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