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mCP X Blade Micro CPx Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 03-22-2011, 05:44 PM   #81 (permalink)
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I'm interested in this heli, but after the MSR and SR I'm going to hold off a while.
I'll let the early adopters sort out the problems and fixes, and wait for the parts supply to build up. Sounds like fun when it works though.
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Old 03-22-2011, 09:38 PM   #82 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbolt View Post
Don't think this has been posted. Motor starts when battery inserted. Can't rebind because the motor starts up immediately. Throttle hold doesn't work.Throttle down doesn't work. To make it even more interesting, when I release the throttle hold the motor speeds up! Have flown about 6 packs with no issues. DX7 set uplike the manual suggests. What am I missing? Bad ESC maybe?
Fused FET. The motor ESC's driver transistor is burned up, so it's stuck " full on."
Call HH...
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Old 03-22-2011, 10:54 PM   #83 (permalink)
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hello all

i dont read this as a bash thread, more like a beta thread.

I have about 12 batteries worth of flying over tallish backyard grass. On the 4th the blade grip gave out, replaced and no issues since. 13th was a broken rear swash ball. Finally got my new swash installed and did a preflight check (gear on shaft, grips on, battery charged, blades not to tight or to loose etc).
idle up and notice a vibration at about 55% stick but it went away, now at full stick and no lift. It didn't lean to either side, just sat there at WOT. Like if it was at 0 pitch. Then without warning it pops up like a rocket and shoots off to the left. WTH! No stick inputs and no time to throttle hold.
Ok so now i need another swash, another blade grip, a new blade, new tail boom and canopy. It hit my drywall so hard that I have to patch it as well.

I'm a little disappointed, being in Canada HH is a pain to talk to. I sent off an email but I can only imagine that will be a few weeks.

Anyone have thoughts?
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Old 03-23-2011, 01:09 AM   #84 (permalink)
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I waited on hold for an hour with HH then finally punched in my cell number and 2 hours later they called me. I told them about 2 blade grip failures and they said they would send me 2 packs and some other goodies but not for like a month or so. Im from Saskatchewan.
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Old 03-23-2011, 05:53 AM   #85 (permalink)
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Default Horizon Hobby Reply

I emailed HH a couple of days ago--no response as of yet, read on Helifreak that HH phone line is locked up in que, hence reason for sending email. My concern is the safety issue. That's all I want is a fix!! , My CPx will stay grounded until something is finalized regarding all the reported issues/problems Until then, I am enjoying my other Heli's, Walkera M120 and 120D02.

B-
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Old 03-23-2011, 01:49 PM   #86 (permalink)
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I didn't want to hear that. I was thinking of just buying another Mcpx but the thought of having 2 heli's with the same issue is terrifying. The wait continues.
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Old 03-23-2011, 03:02 PM   #87 (permalink)
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Default Dang! Don you are so right!!

Don,

You are so right Mine showed up from the factory with approx -4 degrees pitch at mid-stick. I had to add 60 clicks pitch sub-trim.

Now she hovers at 50% Throttle----all servos are now in middle!

Thanks,
B-
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Old 03-23-2011, 03:04 PM   #88 (permalink)
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Default Forgot something--

My Heli is not grounded now---but I am checking it constantly!

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Old 03-23-2011, 07:15 PM   #89 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoffy5 View Post
You are so right Mine showed up from the factory with approx -4 degrees pitch at mid-stick. I had to add 60 clicks pitch sub-trim.
Mine also. And I just bought it last week. And it had just arrived at the local hobby shop direct from Horizon. I watched them take it out of the shipment box.

Horizon must have an assembly jig that's out of calibration, or the radio they test the heli with is out of calibration. Either way, it's a manufacturing process error they should have found and fixed and maybe even posted a service bulletin about by now. Where's their Quality Assurance organization?
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Old 03-23-2011, 07:22 PM   #90 (permalink)
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In addition to everything else, my pitch was also negative by 38 clicks. I don't know many degrees as I don't have a pitch gauge that small.

I opted to change the length of the servo links. This resulted in the servo 'arms' close to centered. If I left the subtrim that far off, the 'arms' were offset quite a bit.

You might want to check your servo 'arm' positions if you just use subtrim to make sure nothing binds.

Also, don't flybarless controllers like neutral transmitter trims?
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Old 03-24-2011, 09:25 AM   #91 (permalink)
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Here's a new one. A few minor crashes. well ok more than a few this Heli took a beating.

Well I bent the spindle on my last crash and with a trip to the LHS and a new tail, Spindle and other little things. I went and put the little bird back together and now when I plug it in it will initialize properly and with TH hold I have full control of the swash and everything looks great. As soon as I apply throttle though it will spin up for a bout 3 seconds and than the back servo will either lock fully up or fully down and everything will stop spinning. My guess is the all-in-one took a dump but just in case I'm wrong has any one else seen anything like this.
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Old 03-24-2011, 11:18 AM   #92 (permalink)
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Not a bash at all. As disappointed as I was about the early failure, I can say that customer service is excellant. I left a message with HH and they called me back within 30 minutes. I explained the issue and was told a replacement would go out today. Can't beat that IMO.
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Old 03-24-2011, 01:07 PM   #93 (permalink)
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Having lift issues. Called an solution was supposed to be back out push rods on either side 2 turns. Did 4, still very little lift. At LHS saw a memo from Horizon. Said RTF's were having issues where Tx was entering computer mode. If you hit trainer mode swash moves up and down. Manual and Dvd explain the strange binding process.
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Old 03-27-2011, 04:42 PM   #94 (permalink)
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Default Very happy with mine

My first collective pitch was the CP Pro 2. I crashed it a few times before I took it and had a friend who works at the hobby shop I bought it from take a look. It needed quite a few minor adjustments. Because of that experience I gave my Blade 400 a thorough once over before flight. The MCPx I bought as a cheap next step to learning 3d, flight sim being the first. I flew it twice right out of the box without going over things. One flight tapped the couch and popped the linkage off. After that, I gave it a once over to check tightness and proper adjustment. I don't remember now what I had to do, but going over things got me to 20 flights without any crashes or other problems. None of those flights were attempting 3d, but I absolutely throw the copter around. Flight 21 started trying to learn to fly inverted and that flight, and the next three, only resulted in one broken linkage, and the linkage popping off once. Flight 25 resulted in a broken ball joint on that rear ball joint, which ended the day. I repaired the ball joint and fabricated a new arm that has a C in it so that it can flex instead of transferring all the force on to the ball joint.

Tips:
Don't plug the battery in all the way. If you crash, it has a good chance of unplugging the battery before you can flip the switch.

After every 10 flights:
Check the feathering spindle screws
Check the blade grip tightness

After every crash:
Check the main motor, if you have too much slop, push the gear up the main shaft.
Check your blade grip tightness
Check your swashplate links (but this should be obvious)

Just the thoughts of a novice pilot
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Old 03-27-2011, 06:25 PM   #95 (permalink)
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Just a note as to people asking/talking about subtrims on pitch.

I too have zero-ed my pitch at mid stick as it was a bit off. I got it as close as I could mechanically which left me with a slight positive pitch, and then used 9 clicks of subtrim to back it down.

The concerns regarding subtrims with flybarless are justified, however logic suggests only in the axis that the flybarless controller actually controls.

Depending on how the system works, subtrim on the aileron/elevator/rudder will either be ignored by the flybarless as it calibrates to zero at start up, or indeed seen as a constant roll/yaw/nick rate request. I haven't experimented yet to see which is the case. The important point here is that the flybarless controller controls the servo position, not the transmitter... the transmitter makes a rate request that the flybarless controller tries to satisfy with whatever servo position is required.

Pitch however falls outside the flybarless controller's remit, as it doesn't control the pitch - this is directly dictated by the transmitter throttle stick position.

It should therefore be safe to use a small amount of subtrim on the pitch channel, and the pitch channel only. Do be aware though that larger amounts will offset the servos from centre and could lead to overdriving when inputs are summed (eg, full collective and cyclic) so the less you have to use the better.
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Old 03-27-2011, 10:04 PM   #96 (permalink)
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Default Tail boom splits and motor

What is the right fix for this? I have read about 4 different things so far Trex 450 flybar, 2mm CF boom and just want to this the right way.

Second, what his the best replacement tail motor, the stock one is really weak and blows out very easily.

Thank you!
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Old 03-29-2011, 03:54 PM   #97 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joezasada View Post
I found a fix for the blade grip bearings

My LHS didn't have the trex250 bearings so I had to improvise...

take the two brass washes in between the blade grip inner bearings and the head in the middle, and put them on the end of the feathering shaft just under the screws
this will take the centrifugal stress off the outer bearings.
I had one crash from a bad outer gip bearing; after doing this I've not had that issue (20+ flights). As well, it doesn't seem to affect the moveability of the blade grips.
I have got most of the slop out of the head and My mCPX is flying very well at the moment.

I am still on the original bearings and I did the above mod which has the added benefit of stopping your tiny flat head screwdriver from digging into the bearing when it slips off the flat head screw while trying to tighten it up. Then I chopped a 001 Flurosilicone o-ring in half and put them where the brass washer was originally. This type of o-ring is very soft and squishy and has caused no binding of the bearings, but has tightened the grips up a little. Note you will have to shave the end of the blades a little to get them to fit into the grip after doing the above washer mod because the blade grip sits inward on the spindle now.

I put a couple of 003 Flurosilicone o-rings in the center of the head to give some more dampening. Also I put one 001 o-ring on each swash ball. . Now the only place to have slop is the center of the swash. I am going to try to wick some CA in there to tighten it up, but that slop is not causing any bobbling or anything like that.
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Old 03-30-2011, 08:39 PM   #98 (permalink)
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After a trim flight one of teh bearings broke in the head. I just ordered the MicroHeli grips and bearings. Hopefully this will fix the problem. No response from HH whatsoever.
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Old 03-30-2011, 11:44 PM   #99 (permalink)
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Default Defective out of the box

New issue? Never flown, taken apart to do bearing mod and was waiting for the locktite to set. Sorry kind of long, feel free to jump to 1:00

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hyy5ueD8MFw


I've had a few 3 Blade MSR in the past and have repaired them about 10x each, usually only when the main board dies it's done. My guess is the main board is defective, or some strange noise/interference/voltage sag from the motors.

Question, when you spin (with your finger) the main large, white, gear, does it jump teeth on the motor gear? Mine does. Is the motor supposed to be really that tight?

Last edited by silver2003tl; 03-31-2011 at 08:32 AM.. Reason: YouTube tag didn't work. Made link instead
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Old 03-31-2011, 06:01 AM   #100 (permalink)
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my strange problem with Mcp.

Brought it today, first battery was fine nice stable flying.

second battery totally different- wouldnt lift off and was skating all over the ground.
holding it in hand, noticed on throttle up it was going negitive pitch.
AUX was off and hi/lo was high.

switching the AUX did nothing, hi/lo did nothing

pressing the bind/ trainer button made it go from negitive to positive but only while holding the botton down, once you let it go it goes back to neg.

any ideas?
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