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mCP X Blade Micro CPx Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 09-01-2011, 09:18 AM   #161 (permalink)
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spykez,

Glad to see yet another mcp x pilot....looks like new parts for this little bird will keep on coming

Yes, the Tailboom really needs to be strengthened.
I'm not sure doing the CA-Method is the best approach as it won't increase durability that much; especially if it's already cracked and you do run the risk of permanently attaching a broken boom.

The 2mm solid carbon rod method however, does make a huge difference!
There are many great guides here at Helifreak on doing this, but basically, you just put the notch in the rod with a sharp knife and a little sanding. Try not to sand/cut more than the stock one, since that will allow the boom to rotate. Take off a little bit at a time and trial-fit on each pass.

No CA needed for the boom since it fit's pretty snug and you'll want the option of replacing it later.

The real tricky part is removing the motor assembly and wires from the stock tailboom. But 1st you should remove the entire tailboom from the mcpx. In my case, the motor assembly bracket was cut on the underside cast line and then split apart to remove the remains of a broken boom.

If your boom is already cracked (and the motor's still working well) you can probably run an incision right down the center of the boom and split it apart, then carefully extract the wires.

You can make the boom longer than stock as well...there's much discussion on this too.
The wires can be wrapped around the boom or tied in place or encapsulated with shrink tube.

Happy Modding,

-8th
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Old 09-04-2011, 09:33 AM   #162 (permalink)
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Great information in here, but I think the first post should be editted to include some of the additional information that has been added. Adding links to other threads detailing repairs/mods would be great for us noobs. It a pain to navigate through all 17 pages.

Just a thought.
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Old 09-06-2011, 08:45 PM   #163 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8th elephant View Post
...
Yes, the Tailboom really needs to be strengthened.
I'm not sure doing the CA-Method is the best approach as it won't increase durability that much; especially if it's already cracked and you do run the risk of permanently attaching a broken boom.

The 2mm solid carbon rod method however, does make a huge difference!
...
Thanks for the tips, I'm still waiting on my replacement tailboom and I've also ordered some solid carbon fibre rods.

I have to say one thing though. The CA fix is *not* too bad.

Anecdote. I flew 10 packs yesterday with my CA'ed cracked stock tailboom. Noob flying as well, so I erhhm... had more than my fair share of knocks. I flew no 3D but tree-D (tree destruction, several collisions with woody objects). She's still holding out and seems no worse for wear .

Just saying this as tailboom assemblies seem to be in short supply here at present, and this seems to be a reasonable temporary fix one could do in a time of strife.

To describe my original problem again, basically initially I had longitudinal cracks along both sides of the boom. Orientation of the tail rotor however was not compromised on this one, so I thought salvage was possible.

What I did was put some sellotape thinly protecting the insertion point of the boom to the plastic mainframe - to protect that from the CA - and just literally 'painted' thin CA (thin ZAP CA) onto the cracked boom, straight out of the CA bottle nozzle. It seeped into the cracks and I did it till I was happy that I had them all filled in. About 3 applications if I recall correctly.

Since I have original blade tailbooms coming in the post as well, I'll probably think about coating these although I am a bit more doubtful about whether it will make a difference in these undamaged ones.

Sidetrack: I did read somewhere that someone theorized that the carbonfibres actually absorb the CA and it wicks in making CF structure somewhat tougher but I don't know if in fact this is true - it would be really interesting to try and find out but I am not entirely certain what would be the best way of testing it. Perhaps comparing shear forces required to snap a CF rod?
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Old 09-08-2011, 08:54 PM   #164 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spykez View Post
Thanks for the tips, I'm still waiting on my replacement tailboom and I've also ordered some solid carbon fibre rods.

I have to say one thing though. The CA fix is *not* too bad.................

Sidetrack: I did read somewhere that someone theorized that the carbonfibres actually absorb the CA and it wicks in making CF structure somewhat tougher but I don't know if in fact this is true - it would be really interesting to try and find out but I am not entirely certain what would be the best way of testing it. Perhaps comparing shear forces required to snap a CF rod?
Oh, sorry I didn't realize your boom wasn't totally shattered.
Carbon does tend to wick in CA if the split is really clean and thin.
I wonder if the mcpx tube is porous enough to absorb thin CA.
The "glossy type" of CF rods/tubes with a smooth resin finish won't absorb CA though.

Glueing the split and then wrapping the boom is a great temporary fix
I've used this to fix carbon ferrules for high-performance stunt kites and it works really well for smaller tubes.

Since you've got some nice new stock booms on the way, you could just wrap them in some light-weight celo tape as a preventative measure. This would keep it from splitting in the future unless you had a really bad crash.
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Old 09-10-2011, 11:58 PM   #165 (permalink)
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My tailboom splintered as well. My local shop will not have a shipment until end of next week. I am also a newbie flyer, so she had her share of carpet hits. Yes flying indoors.

What I did was ordered some hollow and solid CF tubes for modding later when it breaks again I then grabbed some 3.0mm shrink tube and carefully pushed the entire assembly with the 2pin connector through (barely makes it).. Then proceeded to carefully and slowly shrink the tube with heat. I did not want to melt the motor mount or motor parts.

She is flying pretty good, not as good as before with a little waddle when spooling. The only problem I had was the tail fin did not like the slight thickness difference with the tubing. I guess I could of cut it shorter instead of encasing the entire tube (minus the notched ends and a little more for insertion).
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Old 09-21-2011, 03:49 AM   #166 (permalink)
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I have found that my mcpx yaws voilently to the left, and when I go to trim ailerons on the tx, I find it tends to want to roll over, before it lift off the ground. I have tried to rebind the helicopter serveral times but with no luck. Is there a solution to this problem.
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Old 09-21-2011, 05:59 AM   #167 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thdman1511 View Post
I have found that my mcpx yaws voilently to the left, and when I go to trim ailerons on the tx, I find it tends to want to roll over, before it lift off the ground. I have tried to rebind the helicopter serveral times but with no luck. Is there a solution to this problem.
Never use trim on this heli. use stick to correct as you take off
If you mean the nose of the heli turns left, then use the sick to correct on take off.
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Old 09-26-2011, 02:49 AM   #168 (permalink)
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The rotors and feathering shaft coming apart is NO LONGER AN ISSUE.
I'd love to see posts on this subjet reflect this.
HH has gone above and beyond to recall all these faulty parts. i seriously doubt there are any left on the market. i live in western Australia, I've been looking far and wide for any mCPx's with original parts (no B on rotor grips) and there aren't any. so if this back water city, on the other side of the globe, has no duds, i doubt they are anywhere.

Sure there might be a slim chance they are still around. but please, give HH some cred! they have fixed this issue MONTHS ago..
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Old 09-26-2011, 07:59 PM   #169 (permalink)
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Default Uncontrolled movements.

There is a possible cause of the uncontrolled flight. This is a flybarless system. The video tells us to not touch the right stick until airborne. I noticed that I was chasing the bird around when I took off. Tried with only throttle stick and was way better.
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Old 09-29-2011, 04:43 PM   #170 (permalink)
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I agree. With the flybarless heli, you want to get it up and flying as soon as possible..
I used to spin up the rotor and let everything kind of stabilize but with this one I just
spool up and get it off the ground ASAP. I sure do like this one. This is the first CP heli
that I have actually flown around. I had a Blade CP Pro and a Blade 400 that I hovered the
heck out of but never really did much beyond flying left to right and right to left and then
did forward and back. Never did figure 8's and circuits with them. With this bird, I have
had some pretty good crashes but just check the links and the gear, and get it back up in the
air. Love this heli!!!!!
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Old 09-30-2011, 04:48 PM   #171 (permalink)
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One thing to note with this heli is that if you take off and fly in idle up, you can touch the right stick anytime you want to.

The 3 in 1 will soft start then, you can bring it to about 50% pitch (left mid stick - you do have 0 pitch at mid stick, right?) while still on the ground. The heli will get light on the skids, and you can adjust the right stick in any way you want to achieve a nice, smooth, slow (or fast - your choice) completely perfect vertical take off.

If I had it to do all over again, there's one thing I wish someone had told me: Do not try to control the speed and actions of this heli with throttle. Control them with DR/Expo and pitch. Fly in idle up. If I would have started out with this philosophy, I would have saved tons of money on parts.

Taking off in normal mode, and 'popping' it up in the air just so you can get control is BS, and it's dangerous. You don't have to do it this way. As a matter of fact, if you're new, this can be a good way to go flying into a wall. Or your own face like I did lol.

I busted the shit out of my first mcpx thinking that I was 'supposed' to be able to just pop it up in the air and hover. Not happening with this heli - none of my mcpx's will do this in normal mode. I can take off, slow or fast and *perfect* every time by the method above. You can too.
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Old 09-30-2011, 05:03 PM   #172 (permalink)
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Careful moving the right stick when on the ground with a FBL. They tend to get 'upset' about that......
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Old 10-01-2011, 03:13 AM   #173 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GunnyGlow View Post
Careful moving the right stick when on the ground with a FBL. They tend to get 'upset' about that......
Not true, I always check to see if the swash plate is moving before I take off, its a habit I got into after planting one of my 600n after a servo failed, now I ALWAYS check controls before I take off.

I had a friend that keep on telling me the tail on his 450 kept on turning left or right just as he was taking off, I tried it and it was fine, I then noticed he was not correcting the tail as he took off, he was just putting it in the air then panicking when the tail spun round on him. as soon as he corrected the tail wile taking off he was fine.

It the same with take off, correct every thing if needed. you probably do it with out noticing, if it is starting to tilt left as you take of I bet you give it a bit of correction as you take off.

.
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Old 10-01-2011, 10:04 AM   #174 (permalink)
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You wiggle/move the sticks after it has spooled up and is getting light on the skids while on the ground? If it works for you, great. But, even with a FB heli there is a 'point of no return' should you start tipping over while the skids are still planted. Or if you are saying that you move the sticks around to check things over BEFORE spooling up.....no problem with that on FBL or FB.

Tell your friend to adjust his gyro.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dna001 View Post
Not true, I always check to see if the swash plate is moving before I take off, its a habit I got into after planting one of my 600n after a servo failed, now I ALWAYS check controls before I take off.

I had a friend that keep on telling me the tail on his 450 kept on turning left or right just as he was taking off, I tried it and it was fine, I then noticed he was not correcting the tail as he took off, he was just putting it in the air then panicking when the tail spun round on him. as soon as he corrected the tail wile taking off he was fine.

It the same with take off, correct every thing if needed. you probably do it with out noticing, if it is starting to tilt left as you take of I bet you give it a bit of correction as you take off.

.
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Old 10-01-2011, 10:12 AM   #175 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GunnyGlow View Post
You wiggle/move the sticks after it has spooled up and is getting light on the skids while on the ground?
Sure. I do it sometimes.There is no reason you can't balance on one skid, set it down, then balance on the other skid, all while planted on the ground on a FBL system.

I've got BeastX, CGY750, Walkera 2702, 2618, mcpx, and Genius, and they all do the above mighty fine.

There is ONE early FBL system that I know of that will eat your lunch and throw itself in spasms on the ground if you just look at it wrong. That system is the 2612, and it's a dog, a loser, a waste of time, and IMHO, ought to be thrown in the trash if you ever see one polluting valuable bench space, much less on a chopper. It simply cannot be trusted.

I'm convinced that a lot of this 'lore' that gets passed around about FBL systems stems directly from the fact the only way to hope to get a 2612 based system up, was to spool to flight mode, and yank it straight up, then hope it stabilized before deciding to pitch itself over sideways in an un-commanded max-authority roll.

That's no way to fly ANY sort of heli, and I refuse to put up with any heli or flight control system that would require such boneheaded behavior to keep it from plopping over into a chicken dance.


Quote:
If it works for you, great. But, even with a FB heli there is a 'point of no return' should you start tipping over while the skids are still planted.
Sure there is -- when the blade tips hit something solid.

Quote:
Or if you are saying that you move the sticks around to check things over BEFORE spooling up.....no problem with that on FBL or FB.
I do both -- I ALWAYS do a collective and tail function preflight with zero head speed, but I also sometimes give a waggle and/or a full cyclic check with near hover headspeed and pitch -- depends on what I'm checking out.
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Old 10-01-2011, 11:08 AM   #176 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GunnyGlow View Post
.

Tell your friend to adjust his gyro.
Ok Ill give you a test, spool up your heli on grass give it some left rudder BEFORE it leave the ground, if it is in heading hold it will want to turn left as soon as the skids leave the ground. and that is exactly what he was doing and not centering the tail before take off, nothing wrong with the setting or gyro. :-)

All this about not touching the sticks on flybarless before take off or during is rubbish or you would never be able to land and take off again unless you can land without using the sticks, I do agree that getting it up quick it easier or better , but not necessary.


.
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Old 10-13-2011, 09:59 AM   #177 (permalink)
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only thing i noticed is if the throttle is eased on the tail comes on first and a slight left-rudder bump can shut it off, as long as the stick is re-centered before liftoff ...i havent found it necessary to play with the cyclic before takeoff, i would say one risks dumping it over doing that ...

...anybody else 'wind' their blades up before spool-up? I havent seen it mentioned but then again there are mountains of pages to go through reading these mcpx threads and i may have missed it, or maybe its elementary and everybody does it already? heheh .. i was amazed at how much smoother spoolup goes with alittle winding of the blades before the action begins.
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Old 10-14-2011, 02:52 AM   #178 (permalink)
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Quote:
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...anybody else 'wind' their blades up before spool-up?
No, but I have seen advice that they should be straightened before spooling up !
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Old 10-19-2011, 11:06 AM   #179 (permalink)
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Default Same noise problem for Bryan

Hello, Bryan
My name is Brad, I purchased a new BNF mCPx yesterday and I saw your post about your machine, I too am hearing a noise, just after binding. It seems to be the pitch servo on the right side of the heli. Did you receive a good answer for this problem?
Thx Brad
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Old 11-16-2011, 06:46 AM   #180 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dna001 View Post
All this about not touching the sticks on flybarless before take off or during is rubbish or you would never be able to land and take off again unless you can land without using the sticks, I do agree that getting it up quick it easier or better , but not necessary.
.
While I agree with the premise completely, I have found that from time to time the MCPx FB system gets confused and does not act the way one would expect it to.

Near as I can tell, the FB system "zeros" itself when the throttle is at zero, so orientation or stick input before spoolup should have no effect on flight trim. I plug it in and let it initialize with the heli on its side. I then set it upright, spool up and fly. Usually works fine. But every once in a while, this results in it wanting to tip over during spool up even though the swash looks straight and is not moving prior to spool up. Stick input does not seem to counter it. Sometimes even lowering the throttle does not cure it and it needs to be power cycled.

I have also had a couple occasions where this happened in flight.... I was flying fine and suddenly found I was having to hold a lot of cyclic to stay level. It usually passes and after some seconds, it stabilizes again, without landing and lowering the throttle. Note that this is not a momentary disturbance... it requires maintained cyclic input to remain level.

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