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mCP X Blade Micro CPx Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 04-03-2011, 10:23 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default SR120 tail wiring + extended boom = less blowouts

Did the 1 inch solid CF rod extension for the tail boom like Gadflyii and others have used. Utilizing 2mm solid carbon rod. In the process I was looking at the tiny wiring thinking there has to be some serious resistance there. I looked at a broken SR120 boom I had laying around and saw the plug was almost exactly the same with a little thicker gauge wire.

Being careful to keep the red and now gold (instead of mcp black) colored wires plugged into the 5 in 1 properly, I soldered the other end directly to the tail motor wires.

Both mods done at the same time seemed to make a great improvement in the tail hold area.

Here is a boring vid of me flying in a strong cross breeze, and I am really trying to deliberately bog the head and blow out the tail. I still managed to really blow it out once, and as you can see, on hard flips, the nose will still rotate a few degrees. Now I don't have to feather the controls while flipping and I was hitting limits a lot. I have never been able to do that before. It sort of gives it more of a pop and lock attitude. Before the changes, I would have to slow down after 2:30 because of the tail. This was a hard 3:30 flight.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5jw3WwmXzXk[/ame]

here is a pic of the stock wire (unplugged) vs the 120 SR wire.

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Old 04-03-2011, 10:31 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Wow that was impressive,it looks like you are on to something but is it the wire, the boom length or both.This experiment needs a control..Nice flying....When you going to cut that tree down?..
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Old 04-03-2011, 10:58 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Hey he too busy flying, that tree can wait
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Old 04-04-2011, 07:11 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Well after a very solid night of testing, I can say this is in fact a HUGE improvement over stock. It seems one without the other makes very little difference. Put them both together and thats where you see the gains.
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Old 04-04-2011, 07:47 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Well after a very solid night of testing, I can say this is in fact a HUGE improvement over stock. It seems one without the other makes very little difference. Put them both together and thats where you see the gains.
well I thought it sounded like a good idea and is I'm sure. However your saying if I go home a mod the 120 wiring into my NORMAL boom, NO CHANGE ta be expected???
I wonder why??
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Old 04-04-2011, 07:50 AM   #6 (permalink)
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well I thought it sounded like a good idea and is I'm sure. However your saying if I go home a mod the 120 wiring into my NORMAL boom, NO CHANGE ta be expected???
I wonder why??
And where and what mil. are these boom mods bought, Like 2mm solid or something I think I read. And just a inch longer huh? You guys on here are great with the help Thanx
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Old 04-04-2011, 07:53 AM   #7 (permalink)
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well I thought it sounded like a good idea and is I'm sure. However your saying if I go home a mod the 120 wiring into my NORMAL boom, NO CHANGE ta be expected???
I wonder why??
No real NOTICEABLE change unless you are a pro. Every thousandth of a volt will help, and every mm of boom extension will help. Both of course can only go so far. This is why I feel 1 inch (25mm) on the boom is the sweet spot, and the SR120 wires are the best trade-off for least amount of added weight, and most added current.

If you do these together, you will notice a great improvement.

BTW, this was on bullet blades too.

Edit. 2mm solid carbon rod.
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Old 04-04-2011, 08:02 AM   #8 (permalink)
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No real NOTICEABLE change unless you are a pro. Every thousandth of a volt will help, and every mm of boom extension will help. Both of course can only go so far. This is why I feel 1 inch (25mm) on the boom is the sweet spot, and the SR120 wires are the best trade-off for least amount of added weight, and most added current.

If you do these together, you will notice a great improvement.

BTW, this was on bullet blades too.

Edit. 2mm solid carbon rod.
right on, lhs have solid rod
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Old 04-05-2011, 06:46 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Update. I flew it all evening and crashed and bashed it. No issues at all an the tail still holds like a rock.

I really fell the SR120 wiring may be the ticket.
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Old 04-05-2011, 06:20 PM   #10 (permalink)
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It seems odd that one mod without the other doesn't do a huge amount, but the two together really makes a difference. But I'll trust that it does. That's a great discovery! Maybe this is a fairly straightforward way to improve the tail's performance, without even going to a larger/heavier motor.

Out of curiousity (and I don't have a 120 SR, so this may be a really dumb question), is there any reason the whole 120 SR's tail assembly (or at least tail motor) could not be used on the mCP X? Maybe it's just huge, maybe the plugs are wildly different, maybe the booms are totally different sizes. Just figured I'd ask the basic question, since your post made me curious.
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Old 04-05-2011, 06:48 PM   #11 (permalink)
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The boom is thicker, and the tail motor too big. Also, it would draw too much to keep power, and the weight would be too much.

These mods don't make a huge difference, even with both components installed. It just made a noticeable enough difference to let you get a little more aggressive with the flying. The benefits are enough to keep me happy for now.

Edit. I want to see a few more people try it to see if it is a viable mod. So I would love to see people report back, or post your own versions of this mod.
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Old 04-05-2011, 07:40 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Someone posted that the tail motor wire is basically "magnet wire". Wire with a very thin film of insulation. Radio Shack sells a 3-pack of magnet wire spools (22, 26, and 30 AWG) for $8,

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2036277

I don't know what gauge the stock mCP X wiring is, or the 120 SR's wiring. But if someone knows, perhaps there are other sources for heavier-gauge wiring, without having to go buy a 120 SR tail, just to get some tiny pieces of wire
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Old 04-05-2011, 07:44 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Yeah, the real bonus with using the SR120 tail wiring is the fact that the connector is built in. I assume you could make a "connector" with a dab of epoxy and some proper spacing.

It seems to me, stock may be 26 and sr120 is 24-22 but that is a pure guess.

That magnet wire is exactly what is being used, you may be onto something.
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Old 04-05-2011, 07:52 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Tail curve, I use that and it works here is a pic
but I had it backwards so its
Low+ 4 high- 4
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Old 04-05-2011, 07:55 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Sorry, I didn't finish my thought. If you had a mCP X tail motor (or mSR tail motor) that was broken, or whose connector you were willing to sacrifice, you could cut it off, and solder on the thicker wires. If you're going to do this mod, you're obviously changing the wiring for whatever motor you use, anyhow. So maybe you could just buy some wire elsewhere, cut the wires near the plug, and near the motor, and solder in the new wire. In the case of the Radio Shack wire, they are only a single color, so you'd have to be careful to match the polarity of the wires!
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Old 04-05-2011, 10:10 PM   #16 (permalink)
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shouldn't the tail curve be such that its pushing rudder right on both up and down. Because in idle up, both pos and neg pitch cause sudden increases in torque.
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Old 04-05-2011, 11:27 PM   #17 (permalink)
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It must be some mixing that tthe mcpx has built in, I am just overriding it.
what your saying is what I started out with, this is where im at,

I never pitch pump inverted, just upright. But when I have it on it keeps the tail in line, I turn it off and the tail goes to the right.

Don't know exactly why but it works
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Old 04-05-2011, 11:48 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Nice mod and tail driving inverted Joe. So its the stock boom from the SR 120? What did you have to do to make it fit into the body and tail mount?

Man if that tree was only gone.
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Old 04-06-2011, 07:24 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ifly_65 View Post
Nice mod and tail driving inverted Joe. So its the stock boom from the SR 120? What did you have to do to make it fit into the body and tail mount?

Man if that tree was only gone.
No, It is just the wiring from an old broken SR120 tail. I knew I kept all these crash parts around for a reason.

I split the boom and stripped the wiring out. Cut it to length and soldered it on the stock motor and boom assembly. Actually, as I said, I use the solid 2mm rod for a boom since it is at least 4x more crash resistant, and it is stretched 1 inch.

Keep commenting on the tree and you might get one of these...


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Old 04-06-2011, 07:59 AM   #20 (permalink)
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I'm cutting another batch of "stock-style" flat-keyed 2mm CF tube tail booms this weekend if anyone wants to get a few spares. I can easily make them longer than stock. 10 or 12mm longer will still allow you to pull the stock wires through, but still have noticeable gains in tail authority.

3pk $12 tyd
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