Fun, Learning, Friendship and Mutual Respect START  HERE


Unregistered
Go Back   HeliFreak > R/C Helicopter Support > Blade Helicopters (eFlite) > mCP X


mCP X Blade Micro CPx Helicopters Information and Help


Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-10-2011, 08:48 PM   #41 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 2,574
 

Join Date: Feb 2010
Default

Those prices are kind of high though. RCfoam has plenty of the 2mm CF tube in stock, and great customer service too.

The key with the CF tubing is to make VERY careful cuts and flats to avoid starting tiny splits at the ends. If the keyway flats are too tight, they will crack. If they're too loose, the tail motor will twist out of position.
__________________
Blade 200QX, Align T-Rex 450 Pro 3GX,
P-51, SU-26XP, Carbon Cub, Cessna 182,
F/A-18, Blackjack 29, Slash 4x4
hydro_pyro is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 04-10-2011, 11:43 PM   #42 (permalink)
Registered Users
 

Join Date: Feb 2007
Default

What's the best way to make those flats?
tmry is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-11-2011, 04:56 AM   #43 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 66
 

Join Date: Aug 2008
Default

I stretched mine 2 cm and just flew it, and I give this mod a big . I used 1.5 mm solid carbon rod and covered it in 2.4 mm heat shrink and it squashes into the stock position with a nice friction fit. My tip is to take the tail blade off before shrinking the heat shrink, because one wave of heat over them and they melt.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tmry View Post
What's the best way to make those flats?
I used a needle file.
__________________
Blade 400 | HS65 Cyclic | MKS DS480 | Spartan
MSH PROTOS | MKS 9660A | MKS 8910 | Spartan
MCP X | Stretched
JR 9XVII
OSOFAM is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-11-2011, 05:17 AM   #44 (permalink)
Registered Users
 

Join Date: Feb 2010
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tmry View Post
What's the best way to make those flats?
I use a Dremel with sanding disc, takes me less than 2 minutes to cut one from a lenght of CF and make 2 flat spots.
One lenght makes 7 tailbooms for 3 bucks

Grtz Rudi
kmkflyer is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-11-2011, 05:50 AM   #45 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 66
 

Join Date: Aug 2008
Default

Just put a few more packs through and holey moley! Insanely unbelievably good! I just spent one pack just doing inverted stuff I canít even do on the sim. The tail is just holding there now. This helli is nuts!

I wouldnít recommend 1.5 mm carbon tube and heatshrink though, itís a little loose and the tail motor slipped a bit when I crash tail first. But gotta make do with what you got sometimes.
__________________
Blade 400 | HS65 Cyclic | MKS DS480 | Spartan
MSH PROTOS | MKS 9660A | MKS 8910 | Spartan
MCP X | Stretched
JR 9XVII
OSOFAM is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-11-2011, 08:21 AM   #46 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 1,581
Thread Starter Thread Starter
 
My HF Map location
Join Date: Nov 2009
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by OSOFAM View Post
Just put a few more packs through and holey moley! Insanely unbelievably good! I just spent one pack just doing inverted stuff I canít even do on the sim. The tail is just holding there now. This helli is nuts!

I wouldnít recommend 1.5 mm carbon tube and heatshrink though, itís a little loose and the tail motor slipped a bit when I crash tail first. But gotta make do with what you got sometimes.
Nice. Glad to hear it is working for you.
__________________
-Joe
"Helis - wallet weight reduction made easy"
HeliArt Jskrapper @ youtube
Jskrapper is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-11-2011, 09:06 AM   #47 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 2,574
 

Join Date: Feb 2010
Default

Begin to cut a shallow flat at one end of the CF with a fine bastard file.

Lay two similar files on a flat workbench in parallel fashion.

Lay the tip of the shallow CF flat against the smooth part of one file and put your finger on it to hold it there.

Position the opposite tip on the other file, put your other finger on it, and carefully rub it back and forth against the file until the appropriate cut depth has been reached.

Turn the tube around and finish cutting the shallow flat.

They will be flat and true on he same plane at both ends.
__________________
Blade 200QX, Align T-Rex 450 Pro 3GX,
P-51, SU-26XP, Carbon Cub, Cessna 182,
F/A-18, Blackjack 29, Slash 4x4
hydro_pyro is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-12-2011, 02:54 AM   #48 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 1,125
 

Join Date: Sep 2008
Default

I think another key factor is you are getting the tail blades away from the main blade wash which is allowing the tail to work better.
mickeyjohnston is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-13-2011, 12:06 AM   #49 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 1,581
Thread Starter Thread Starter
 
My HF Map location
Join Date: Nov 2009
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mickeyjohnston View Post
I think another key factor is you are getting the tail blades away from the main blade wash which is allowing the tail to work better.
Thats a great point. I am not sure how much that really affects it, but I feel that if it helps in the slightest bit, it's worth it.

If you do five mods with almost no weight gain and a slight performance boost, you are starting to wake up this heli. I flew a stock one (my dad's) the other day and it was a night and day difference.

My list so far is not too impressive, but all together it really makes a boost.

1" extended boom
SR120 tail wiring
canopy grommets
.5g of weight loss over stock (windscreen removed is a good part of this)
DX7 settings
__________________
-Joe
"Helis - wallet weight reduction made easy"
HeliArt Jskrapper @ youtube
Jskrapper is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-13-2011, 01:28 AM   #50 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 78
 

Join Date: Mar 2011
Default

Extended boom = win. I didn't have much to work with, so I used an SR flybar rod and cut it to length. I just eyeballed it with a stock CF rod and made it a touch longer. I had to heat shrink the end so it would fit into the frame. I also wrapped electrical tape around once on the end the tail motor mount goes into. I wrapped the wires around the boom and heat shrunk it. I haven't had a tail blowout since.

I have also had a TON of crashes, (I'm learning flips,rolls,and inverted flight) and the boom, as hillbilly as it may be, is holding amazingly well. COG is maintained with the battery fully forward.

Oh, and I have also done the grommet mod and this thing flies like a dream. (not much to compare it too, but still) If you haven't extended your boom yet, go do it now!
JokazWild is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-13-2011, 01:31 AM   #51 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 110
 

Join Date: Oct 2010
Default

Love the stretch, thanks, flies better and easier to see! (for me)
rallyon is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-21-2011, 10:36 PM   #52 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 1,544
 

Join Date: Jan 2011
Default

how do you get the wiring out of the stock tube? cut the plug and re-solder?
__________________
TEAM HORIZON HOBBY
Find me on youtube :: http://www.youtube.com/user/highadvantage
jchandler is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-22-2011, 08:08 AM   #53 (permalink)
Registered Users
 

Join Date: Sep 2010
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jchandler View Post
how do you get the wiring out of the stock tube? cut the plug and re-solder?
I just used my soldering iron on the plug end by the board. Heated the joint until I could just remove the wires from the plug. Then pull the wires out the boom.
yamie700 is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-22-2011, 08:17 AM   #54 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 1,544
 

Join Date: Jan 2011
Default

I'm a noob and I blow the tail when I try to flip. This mod should help a lot, correct? I know I need to get better at collective management. But for now I'm looking for ways to learn to flip. I have 0 heli buddies (real life ones to fly with) so I'm on my own over here.
__________________
TEAM HORIZON HOBBY
Find me on youtube :: http://www.youtube.com/user/highadvantage
jchandler is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-22-2011, 08:19 AM   #55 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 1,544
 

Join Date: Jan 2011
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by yamie700 View Post
I just used my soldering iron on the plug end by the board. Heated the joint until I could just remove the wires from the plug. Then pull the wires out the boom.
Thank you, BTW.
__________________
TEAM HORIZON HOBBY
Find me on youtube :: http://www.youtube.com/user/highadvantage
jchandler is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-22-2011, 09:17 AM   #56 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 1,581
Thread Starter Thread Starter
 
My HF Map location
Join Date: Nov 2009
Default

I wouldn't say it is a fix all mod, but it will help a lot.

The big thing is collective management and tx settings. If you hammer the inverted pitch to catch it, the tail will blow out. You have to "catch" it very gently to get it right.
__________________
-Joe
"Helis - wallet weight reduction made easy"
HeliArt Jskrapper @ youtube
Jskrapper is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-22-2011, 09:32 AM   #57 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 1,544
 

Join Date: Jan 2011
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jskrapper View Post
I wouldn't say it is a fix all mod, but it will help a lot.

The big thing is collective management and tx settings. If you hammer the inverted pitch to catch it, the tail will blow out. You have to "catch" it very gently to get it right.

I have a dx6i. What settings can I adjust to help with this? I have heavy fingers right now. Should I adjust DR / expo for pitch or something? I've lowered my travel already.
__________________
TEAM HORIZON HOBBY
Find me on youtube :: http://www.youtube.com/user/highadvantage
jchandler is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-22-2011, 10:27 AM   #58 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 1,581
Thread Starter Thread Starter
 
My HF Map location
Join Date: Nov 2009
Default

If you have heavy fingers, try setting up max collective to be rather low. Enough to slow your ascent a little. The make sure inverted is the same amount of pitch by using the methods in this thread...

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=288649

Thats for a dx7, but pay close attention to the part about setting even pitch ranges. Less pitch is more for this heli to help keep it out of bog town.
__________________
-Joe
"Helis - wallet weight reduction made easy"
HeliArt Jskrapper @ youtube
Jskrapper is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-22-2011, 01:06 PM   #59 (permalink)
Registered Users
 

Join Date: Sep 2010
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jchandler View Post
I'm a noob and I blow the tail when I try to flip. This mod should help a lot, correct? I know I need to get better at collective management. But for now I'm looking for ways to learn to flip. I have 0 heli buddies (real life ones to fly with) so I'm on my own over here.
I'm a CP newb also, just had an MSR before. For me at least the extended boom did help quite a bit with it flipping more consistently, less blowout. Plus just practice, I crashed quite a few times when first trying to flip, even after using phoenix sim for a while. Like others have said you just have to get used to catching it with negative collective, but not so much to bog it out. Also try your flips towards the beginning of the pack, that helps too. Keep practicing.
yamie700 is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-22-2011, 03:40 PM   #60 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 1,544
 

Join Date: Jan 2011
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by yamie700 View Post
I just used my soldering iron on the plug end by the board. Heated the joint until I could just remove the wires from the plug. Then pull the wires out the boom.
what about the plastic mount that holds the motor to the boom.... is that just a friction fit on the stock parts? Just pull it off?
__________________
TEAM HORIZON HOBBY
Find me on youtube :: http://www.youtube.com/user/highadvantage
jchandler is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply




Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the HeliFreak forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your REAL and WORKING email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself. Use a real email address or you will not be granted access to the site. Thank you.
Email Address:
Location
Where do you live? ie: Country, State, City or General Geographic Location please.
Name and Lastname
Enter name and last name here. (This information is not shown to the general public. Optional)
Helicopter #1
Enter Helicopter #1 type and equipment.
Helicopter #2
Enter Helicopter #2 type and equipment.
Helicopter #3
Enter Helicopter #3 type and equipment.
Helicopter #4
Enter Helicopter #4 type and equipment.

Log-in


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




Copyright © Website Acquisitions Inc. All rights reserved.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2021 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1