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Painting and Airbrushing Tips / Techniques Painting and Airbrushing Tips / Techniques


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Old 04-28-2011, 08:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default vinyl?

Is there a "special" vinyl that doesn't stick as much (like the blue or green tape) that is used, or does any vinyl work for a stencil application?
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Old 04-29-2011, 08:24 AM   #2 (permalink)
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you couldcall up your local sign shop. ask them if they have any Oracal "3641" or non permanent application vinyl. Another choice woulld be some of the auto wrap materials.
(3691). The auto grades unfortunately have an adhesivetechnology that may allow paint to seep under them.. Its been engineered in such a way as to allow it to release trapped air. With a little heat and some patience, you could theoretically "wrap" your canopy in the stuff... Or at least do one half then the other -seeming it all down the center...

Anyway The 3641 is a digital print media with non permanent adhesives. As well,you could check out another product called "paint mask" Avery makes two grades... bakeable and non bakeable. Cant remember which is which but one is yello and the other is white.. Go direct to a sign supply for this stuff. The sign shops will burn your a$$ if you go through them to get some... same with the mentioned below Premask.
(Rtape is one brand)
The vinyl paint mask catch.. it doesnt conform to small things like compound curves of a canopy -except in strips.... and when the paint gets on it the charcteristics change and it becomes very hard to remove... IMHO anyway.... Funny though I know a lot of guys who simply use the "premask" used to apply the vinyl to whatever.. Its cheap, easy to apply & remove, and it cuts TOO WELL. I mean the simlest drag of a razor will usually sever it and the results are spectacular. just make sure your edges are well placed as the paint can get under it if you happen to lay it down with a wrinkle and then lay the paint too thikkkk. this is a paper based product with a easy removable adhesive. When I say that it cuts TOO EASY... I mean just that... If you press too hard you will compromise your finished work... You will leave trace lines in the finished part and these will show up like a sore thumb once you lay down the clear cote.... be careful, take your time and practice on non important objects.. (like your neighbours BMW) It take a bit to master the use of premask...

Remember this too.. Most vinyls can be worked with heat.... A heat gun can be your friend... But be careful... No hotter than steam off a kettle.. If you get too hot you could reshape your canopy... (to look like your neighbour BMW....) or blow a hole through the vinyl.... I hope youve got good balance 'cuz thats whats this is... : ))
Hope this helps... If you have any Q's PM me.
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Old 04-29-2011, 08:43 AM   #3 (permalink)
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yes there are several, 3m makes a product called gerber mask that works great, but is pricey. i use regular cast vinyl. Works really good unless you lay too heavy of coats,,,,, will make the adhesive stay behind. not the end of the world, but takes some work to get off

http://www.hhsignsupply.com/productc...Vinyl-c365.htm

http://www.uscutter.com/ORAMASK-810-...cil_p_923.html

http://www.hyatts.com/sign/gerbermask-film-3.8454

It's been 10 years since i cared enough to spend money on real masking, but i even seem to remember some adhesive left behind on the masks too if you layed to heavy of coats. Go slow and spray often versus loading it up. I make masks out of 3M SC50 and spray every day. done right is way more cost effective when it's hard enough to make a dime as it is
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Old 05-06-2011, 01:28 PM   #4 (permalink)
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just ask for blue mask at a sign writers, its low tac and can also be cut like vinyl,
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Old 05-24-2011, 12:47 AM   #5 (permalink)
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the vinyl method is the way to go i have used lots of vinyl already on my bird I'm building and have had nothing but great success with the stuff. I do not think its no more sticky then blue or green tape that i have used before. Compared with the results i get with vinyl I'm not going back to the Green, and blue, tape. After seeing the quality work i am able to create with vinyl in sold . Helipainter has helped me out with this stuff many times. Plus it does not bleed any one say it does its because they are using a very high cut paint very thined out that's why even blue and green tape will bleed using paint in that manner . it works great for any size stencils that is needed it goes over revit work very well also no bleeding my build thread is proof of that.

Jim
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Old 05-29-2011, 10:23 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Default Vinyl Experience

My experience with vinyl has been pretty positive. I have a vinyl cutter, so it makes it pretty easy to design my own masks.
I find it easier to use the vinyl to layout the edges of my design and I remove a lot of the excess material. This simplifies the layout process for me. And makes working with curves or sharp bends easier.
I find that a hair dryer set to a low setting and used cautiously helps soften the vinyl and aids in conforming it to complex shapes/curves.
Then I use masking tape to cover the larger areas not covered by vinyl.
I will also cut 2 or 3 of the same masks and use them in series as I lay different colors down. For example I could lay down a blue, let it dry. Then place vinyl masking on it. Lay down some Orange, let it dry. Then repeat as many times as I need to in order to get complex color schemes.
I have found that removing vinyl can leave residue on your work or pull paint up if it hasn't completely cured. To help prevent some (if not all) of this I use a hair dryer on a low setting to soften the vinyl (more specifically) the glue. It makes removing the masking clean and easier.
Just my experience and you will have to play with heating it to avoid warping a canopy.
This is an example of something I did using vinyl masking for a friends bar.
Thanks, R71d
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Old 05-30-2011, 06:31 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I'm in the middle of a scale build and this is regular old vinyl (matte finish) cause years ago my supplier had a sale on it. The more i've been playing with it the more i've noticed it isn't so much how heavy the coats put down that is leaving the adhesive behind, it's the thinner used in the color that does it. Urethane clear is no problem, but you over thin a urethane basecoat and that adhesive just seperates from the vinyl. Press tape against it and pull it up like lint seems to take most of it up.

Here is that masking job

you can see how the heat gun has the vinyl shrunk down over the rivets. When using as mask, all you need is the outside edge laid flat, the centers don't matter so it's not that hard to do



the vinyl put on right holds lines across about anything. rivets, indentations, door jams. If you can get to it to press it down with a little heat, it'l



lt masks it fineline style


All done with cheap calendered 3M sc50 vinyl.

www.kloners.com
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Old 06-12-2011, 08:45 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Im using vinyl now too and im amazed how strong the paint is as the vinyl sometimes has a death grip on it. I now having been sticking the vinyl to my jeans a couple times before I apply it to the work and it still sticks well but comes off easier.
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