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BeastX FBL System BeastX FBL Flybarless System Software and Hardware Support


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Old 04-28-2012, 12:57 PM   #81 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Down Low View Post
Compass 3D Plus
OS .50 SX Hyper, GP Energy 57 Pipe
Futaba s9451 cyclic servos, JR 8900g tail servo
Hyperion 6.6v LiFe rx pack with a step down for the tail servo
No switch, three separate power leads direct from the battery, 2 to rx and 1 to BX

Parameter menus
B control behavior - Transmitter
C pitching up compensation - medium (red)
D tail heading lock gain - medium (red)
E stick deadband - 2 (red flashing)
F torque precomp - off (purple)
G cyclic response - slightly increased (red flashing)
H pitch boost - off (purple)
Sweet

S
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Old 04-28-2012, 04:54 PM   #82 (permalink)
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trex 600 pro
610 cyclic
outrage 9188 tail
ar7200bx

Parameter menus
B control behavior - Transmitter
C pitching up compensation - medium (red)
D tail heading lock gain - medium (red)
E stick deadband - 2 (red flashing)
F torque precomp - off (purple)
G cyclic response - slightly increased (red flashing)
H pitch boost - off (purple)
13 degrees of pitch and around 12 degrees cyclic 2250 headspeed governed with 104 tails

500 pro is all stock and pretty much same settings except 100 flat curve and boy she rips
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Old 04-28-2012, 06:31 PM   #83 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by hamstar78 View Post
trex 600 pro
610 cyclic
outrage 9188 tail
ar7200bx

Parameter menus
B control behavior - Transmitter
C pitching up compensation - medium (red)
D tail heading lock gain - medium (red)
E stick deadband - 2 (red flashing)
F torque precomp - off (purple)
G cyclic response - slightly increased (red flashing)
H pitch boost - off (purple)
13 degrees of pitch and around 12 degrees cyclic 2250 headspeed governed with 104 tails

500 pro is all stock and pretty much same settings except 100 flat curve and boy she rips
I'll bet the 600 Pro is super sweet with the 7200BX. Such a nice heli and with the Beast, well, that just makes it World Class

S
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Old 04-28-2012, 09:43 PM   #84 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by smaze17 View Post
I'll bet the 600 Pro is super sweet with the 7200BX. Such a nice heli and with the Beast, well, that just makes it World Class

S
yeah it really is but this 500 is amazing as well, align is really stepping up lately with their newer models, both builds were simple and the quality was perfect. but this ar7200bx is the sweetest thing to come out in a while. makes the heli so clean, you should see my machines you can barely see any wires, and the fact that the ar7200bx case is black it just looks badass
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Old 05-04-2012, 04:10 PM   #85 (permalink)
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#1
Gaui X5 fes
beastx V3
Blue light on at 6 degrees
+13 to -13 degrees pitch
all 3 dials set at default settings

parameters
A) swash plate trim center adjustment -at default setting
B) control behavior- extreme blue flashing
C) swash pitch up behavior- high blue flashing
D) Tail heading lock- medium solid red
E) stick deadband- 2 red flashing
F) tail revo mix- off purple
G) cyclic response- normal purple
H) pitch boost- high blue flashing

T-REX 450 pro
is set exactly the same except the dials
DIAL #1 is set at default
DIAL #2 is raised up 1 notch from default
DIAL #3 is raised up 3 notches from default

all the parameters are set at the same values as my X5
Bothe helis are bottle rockets
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Old 05-27-2012, 02:59 PM   #86 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by michael503 View Post
For a more docile setup, use transmitter mode, and set your D/R to 70-80% and use 30% expo.



what does transmitter mode mean?


also, Dual rates up at 70% and then 30% expo on ele and Ail is good ?


many thanks
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Old 05-27-2012, 06:26 PM   #87 (permalink)
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The Microbeast has several modes that can be selected such as pro, sport, Transmitter, etc. Transmitter mode bypasses any advanced expo and rate that the microbeast comes programmed with, giving you full control with the transmitter settings. You can use the TX to speed it up or slow it down.

By setting the D/R to 70-80% and the expo to 30-40% in normal mode and throttle hold, not Idle up and by taking off and landing in normal and/or TH, you greatly reduce the risk of tip-over when on the ground. You can of course choose not to do this. It depends on what you are comfortable with.
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Old 06-04-2012, 11:24 PM   #88 (permalink)
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Default Trex 600EFL Pro

Spektrum AR7200BX w/3M 4011 tape to hold it down
Align DS610's on cyclic
DS650 on the tail
Castle ICE2 HV80
Align 600MX
Align DFC head
Align DFC Swash
Spektrum DX7 TX
Perfect Regulators Safe-Switch 2 with dual-outputs

Transmitter mode
20% expo on aileron and elevator
15% expo for the tail
115% ATV for aileron and elevator
105% ATV for the tail
78% transmitter gyro gain

Parameter menus
B Control behavior - Transmitter (Blue)
C Pitching up behavior - Very Low (Purple)
D Headlock gain - Low (Red Flashing)
E Stick deadband - 2 (Red Flashing)
F Torque Precomp - Off (Purple)
G Cyclic Response - Normal (Purple)
H Pitch Boost - Off (Purple)



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Last edited by smaze17; 06-11-2012 at 07:22 PM..
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Old 06-05-2012, 04:16 PM   #89 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ehernan3 View Post
T-Rex 450 Sport, RJX head

cyclic - DS410M, inner hole on stock arms
tail - DS420
stock motor
stock Align ESC
Futaba 7C, R617FS

All parameters and settings default

pot 1 - 8 oclock(might go back as I play with head speed, see below)
pot 2 - 9 oclock(default)
pot 3 - 9 oclock(default)
...
And it's quieter in the air?!
pot 1 back to 9 oclock(default), which was fine until this weekend. I attended the MidAmerican Fun Fly, which was pretty windy. When hovering in the highest winds, I experienced some small, fast pitch oscillation. Oddly, I didn't notice it during FFF. I adjusted pot 1 down about 1/2 hash mark. Oscillation gone!

I can confirm also that the heli is indeed quieter, and also faster, and I am getting at least one minute more battery life. Flying in the wind is no longer intimidating, just have to be quick on the collective, but not the cyclic.
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Old 06-07-2012, 05:02 PM   #90 (permalink)
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Nice read. I'm im the process of setting up my first Beast X(AR7200BX) on my new 550 with DFC. Actually, I've test flown it and need to dial it in. Something to add to the list may be who is using factory mounting tape or something else?
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Old 06-07-2012, 06:48 PM   #91 (permalink)
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don't bother with the factory tape. Use 1 layer of 3M 4011/411 tape, the gray stuff.


Edit... this is for the original Microbeast.. I have no experience with the spektrum combo
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Old 06-07-2012, 06:55 PM   #92 (permalink)
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He meant that it should be one of the things that we each include in our MB set-up specifications, so that we all know who used what, and I think that it might be a good idea.

Cheers

Sutty
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Old 06-08-2012, 08:15 AM   #93 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sutty View Post
He meant that it should be one of the things that we each include in our MB set-up specifications, so that we all know who used what, and I think that it might be a good idea.

Cheers

Sutty

Exactly what I meant Sutty.
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Old 06-08-2012, 11:53 AM   #94 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ehernan3 View Post
T-Rex 450 Sport, RJX head

cyclic - DS410M, inner hole on stock arms
tail - DS420
stock motor
stock Align ESC
Futaba 7C, R617FS

All parameters and settings default

pot 1 - 1/2 hash mark down from 9 oclock
pot 2 - 9 oclock(default)
pot 3 - 9 oclock(default)

Gyro gain on transmitter: can't make up my mind between A20% and A25%. For rate mode, N25%

Mounted vertically, on right side of frame, on with factory double sided tape.
Here's my old post, edited for pot 1, gyro gain and mounting choice.
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Old 06-25-2012, 10:52 PM   #95 (permalink)
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Can anyone post settings for a T250, please? I'm trying to fine tune my new DFC Pro. Thanks!
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Old 07-12-2012, 04:33 PM   #96 (permalink)
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Good thread.

I'm going to be setting up an MB on a 700E FBL V1, next week. I'll be using one of my 3 trusty Futaba 6EX transmitters. (The one I took the throttle ratchet out of.)

After reading most of the Beast book and looking at some other stuff, it seems pretty straightforward. The big deal is to select the 1S setting on the swash option in the Tx, so the Beast can do it's stuff. (Of course, Futaba refers to this as the "independent" servo option, and Beast calls it mechanical mixing. Learning to read between the lines seems to be essential in this hobby.)

When they talk about using a linear pitch curve, do they mean something like this:
-100 -50 0 +50 +100 (Idle up)

0 0 0 +50 +100 (normal)
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Old 07-13-2012, 04:51 AM   #97 (permalink)
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Yes, but don't setup your heli in normal, rather in IU or throttle hold (so you have full pitch range, -100 to +100.
And it's good to have few degrees of negative pitch in normal flight condition below midstick, so you can bring your heli down if it's windy
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Old 07-13-2012, 03:57 PM   #98 (permalink)
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I remember that item from setting up the F3C- did it all in normal then had to go back and start all over.
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Old 07-18-2012, 10:56 PM   #99 (permalink)
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The Beast rules. I spent a lot of time getting my geometry just right, and when I went through the setup, everything worked the first time. Blue light at 6 deg. on the dreaded "J". (I did put all the balls, etc on the inner holes) The only thing I had to do that shouldn't have been necessary was to shorten the pitch links. They were too long and with a perfectly level swash and everything perfectly 90 at center stick the mains had about 3 deg of +. Ground 3/32" of each end of the links so I could shorten them.

Flew it three times doing adjustments and such. Here's where I am now:

700E 3G V1 (Date in the book is 2010)
690mm Align
610s cyclic
650 tail
700MX motor
CC Ice 120
Turnigy Nano 4000 6S (2)
115mm Rotortech tail blades
Futaba 6EX with Orange RC Futaba compatible Rx.

Beast setup:
Standard Rx (no light)
A. Horizontal mounting (blue) on the gyro pad up front.
B. Swash servo freak 200Hz (blue)
C. Tail Servo center position pulse length 1520 ms (blue)
D. Tail Servo freak 333Hz (flashing blue)
H. 120 deg swash (Red)
K. Collective pitch range set to +/- 10 degrees

Pot 1 (Cyclic gain) set to halfway between center and (-) due to tail bobbing up and down in pitch. (Latest setting not test flown yet.)
Pot 2 (Cyclic feed forward) set to about the same as pot 1, due to what seems like automatic overcontrolling. (Latest setting not test flown yet)
Pot 3 (Tail) Still in the middle

Tail gyro gain on G. 45% in headlock on the 6EX. Might have to play with my mechanical precomp in the blades- seems to have a right drift, like the amount I have was OK for the F3C, but too much for the smaller 690mm mains.

Flight Parameters:
B. Control behavior: Normal (purple)
C. Swash pitchup comp: Medium (red)
D. Head lock gain: medium (red)
E. Stick deadband: 3 (red)
F. Tail torque precomp. I don't even begin to understand WTF this is all about, so I left it off. (Purple)
G. Cyclic response: normal (purple)
H. Pitch boost. hahahahahaha I'm 65 and this is my third real CP heli. If I ever ATTEMPT to fly 3D someone should lock my ass up.

I'm running 1500rpm on the governor for normal, 1700 for idle up. Have only flown normal so far, and boy does it scoot compared to the F3C. (The F3C bit it last week, but all the electrical stuff and the tail gear box with tail rotor assembly survived. This 3G is a barebones kit from Grand RC with only the 690 blades and the beastie boxes check on the options list. The servos, motor, esc, bec and T/R assby got transplanted from the wreck.)

Any comments/tips greatly appreciated.

Oh, yeah, they say not to have ANY pitch curve in when you do step K, collective pitch. Hahahahah. Wouldn't work at all with a flat (50%) curve. Had to put in the usual curves: Normal 45-45-50-75-100; Idle UP 0-25-50-75-100.
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Old 07-19-2012, 09:46 PM   #100 (permalink)
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Noticed the motor was getting a little warm so I bumped the ESC timing up to high, and raised the head speed for Normal (1750) and Idle Up (1900). Runs a lot cooler, now.

Still had some tail bob, overcontrolling and left tail drift issues so I dialed down the #1 and #2 pots a bit more, and shortened the rudder pushrod by about 1/4" to take some of the anti torque mechanical comp out. Did the trick. I just love putting this thing in a hover and letting go of the sticks. All it does is maybe climb or descend a little if there's a gust. The guys who say FB is more stable probably have not flown a Beastie that's adjusted correctly.

I'm impressed. I don't think I'll be returning to FB helis anytime soon, if at all.
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