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Old 06-27-2011, 03:45 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default tail control rod set

just ordered tail pitch control rod set of carbon and thinking of pimping my flyte , wondering how many have done it on the 6HV, seen one
http://www.centuryheli.com/products/...&currentid=535
and the rod guides
http://www.centuryheli.com/products/...&currentid=535
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Old 06-28-2011, 05:24 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Century also sells a complete kit. I know you're in Norway, but I sourced mine from Espritmodel.com. I wound up removing the small bushing which intended to slide vertically in the guide, and do not use it at all. The clearance to the control rod was too tight for my 6HV. The guide alone will have lots of clearance, but prevent any severe oscillations. Mine works just fine. Lots of adjustability in the CNC ends. I almost installed my second assembly on the 7HV, but the stock one seems okay for now.

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Old 06-29-2011, 11:22 AM   #3 (permalink)
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thanks Rob43
its your pics that insired me , thanks for that
everywhere I looked was out of stock , found a hobby shop i the UK and ordered there just to get an email they were out of stock too, restocking on friday , I will probably order from Espritmodel for my Trex 500
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Old 06-29-2011, 12:02 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I installed one on a Hawk 30. Not too bad of a setup even though I'm not much of a fan of the company that produces it. The rod comes really long so you can use it on anything from a 550 up to a 700 no problem. I wouldn't doubt it if you could use it on an 800 as well. I cut off near 1.5' of rod off the one I built, so there's a lot in there.

You can also use Compass links instead of the crappy gray ones included. Just make sure you sand, clean, and CA the snot out of the metal ends so they don't pop off in flight. Maybe heat-shrink over it to make doubly sure it doesn't come off. Be careful not to add so much CA that it gets on the metal threads and makes it unusable (you can break the excess off, but it could ruin your links if it gets globbed on there too bad).
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Old 07-27-2011, 04:48 PM   #5 (permalink)
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thanks guys
now it installed and looks sweet
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Old 07-27-2011, 06:52 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I have carbon rods for my 500 and 5.5.
Rods for a Logo 600 that I trim down to
size and rod holders from a Synergy heli.
Both work perfectly, must agree that it gives
a very cool look to the heli.
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Old 08-04-2011, 09:40 AM   #7 (permalink)
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can you feel the diference with the carbon rod ?


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Old 08-04-2011, 10:15 AM   #8 (permalink)
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The way I fly and the things I do or don't do with the heli
don't think has an impact on its performance. There's no
flaw in the tail design that makes this mod a must.
But it sure looks cool.
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Old 08-04-2011, 01:59 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I can't feel a difference because I never flew it with the wire. Too much curvaure to enter the guides at each end IMO.
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Old 08-04-2011, 02:47 PM   #10 (permalink)
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with my flying , no difference but like the looks
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Old 08-04-2011, 04:04 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Is there enough gap between the rod and the guide to fit a piece of Teflon heat shrink tubing? I had that on my Logo 500 and it really saved wear on the rod where it made contact with the guide.

BTW: I've always flown the stock pushrod on my Atom 500 and 6HV and never had a problem with it. My Knight 3D had a CF pushrod but only because I relocated the tail servo to the front to get it out of the exhaust slime.
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Old 08-04-2011, 04:43 PM   #12 (permalink)
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so it's more a piece of eyecandy then ?


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Old 08-04-2011, 05:22 PM   #13 (permalink)
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On the Century rod kit, the answer is "no - there isn't room for heat shrink...would need to ream out the bushing in the guide". I removed the bushing completely, and the guide is only a very loose fit to prevent excessive deflection.

As to eye candy, I never thought of needing it as such...I hated the notion of control rod binding when everything I was reading on this model related to sticky tail control causing wags. Simple as that. No binds, no wags. Fly what you want. I do. It certainly isn't required. But, another approach likely is needed. For example, polish the stock rod with 600 wetodry sandpaper to get it very slippery in the guides. They say it works well that way.
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Old 08-04-2011, 05:32 PM   #14 (permalink)
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i actually have no problem whatsoever with binding or sticking...

i recently also did some teflon grease in the guides and now it slides like a wet piece of soap :-)





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Old 08-04-2011, 06:05 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Binding is also alleviated by not putting the guides too close to either end of the boom. Another consequence of extreme guide placement is if it's too close to the tail case, the slider control arm will eventually flex enough to rub against the bottom of the tail case or tail fin clamp unless you put a small Z bend in it.
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Old 08-05-2011, 07:01 AM   #16 (permalink)
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I just felt the guide set had the support centerline too close to the boom for best design. I know it may well have worked fine. I just chose the carbon route. To be safe, I kept my wire set and guides in a safe place with the wire stored straight so I could put it back in if needed.
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Old 08-05-2011, 07:34 AM   #17 (permalink)
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me too
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Old 08-06-2011, 05:47 AM   #18 (permalink)
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me too.
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