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Old 10-16-2011, 09:37 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlclemmons View Post
I had the same issue last night, click.click.click. The red wire (1) and the one next to it (2) need to be connected to DC ground. Then 4,5,8 must be connected together.

Looking at that pic, move your (1,2) ring terminal to the lower stand-off marked JGND. If you have removed dc ground from your chassis, that's why she is not powering on.
Rlclemmons, Good morning, can you tell me what point/location u used for the ground. Did u use the neg post ?
I did short 4,5,8 and 1,2 ground on left screw, see pic. I also cut those jumpers did u ?
Something so simple but get i cant seem to get it
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Old 10-16-2011, 09:59 AM   #22 (permalink)
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The only way i can get it to work is 1,2 (1 =r) to ground left screw,
4,5,8 all shorted together and the right ground screw installed. The minute i isolate the right side ground screw to eliminate the DC ground i get the clicking
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Old 10-16-2011, 10:06 AM   #23 (permalink)
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yes the Negative post (marked JGND) on the board. You need to move your 1,2 ribbon connection over to that post.
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Old 10-16-2011, 10:08 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlclemmons View Post
I had the same issue last night, click.click.click. The red wire (1) and the one next to it (2) need to be connected to DC ground. Then 4,5,8 must be connected together.

Looking at that pic, move your (1,2) ring terminal to the lower stand-off marked JGND. If you have removed dc ground from your chassis, that's why she is not powering on.
i just re read the post a couple of times !! yes i removed DC ground, right screw and jumpers i did this so i can touch cases and go series Voltage to 24v.
I do realize this is my problem, just got to figure it out Safely !
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Old 10-16-2011, 02:26 PM   #25 (permalink)
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You have to connect your ground to the NEG DC POST, you are connecting a DC circut back to AC groung, I don't under stand how you guys are getting the unit to turn on with pins 4,5,8 connected, tested your why my self and units don't turn on, pins 6,9,10 are the pins for turning the unit on,

Last edited by J DAMAGE; 10-16-2011 at 03:48 PM..
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Old 10-16-2011, 03:46 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by J DAMAGE View Post
You have to connect your ground to the NEG DC POST, you are connecting a DC circut back to AC groung, I don't under stand how you guys are getting the unit to turn on with pins 4,5,8 connected, tried it my self and units don't turn on, pins 6,9,10 are the pins for turning the unit on,
It could be that you are shorting the external connector on the psu? We are using the ribbon wire internally. I mapped out the pins you are describing to 4,5,8 on the internal ribbon with a continuity test.

I have put banana jacks on both of mine, and isolated dc/ac ground on one unit today. Both units working great! Thanks to the wealth of information here and rcg.
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Old 10-16-2011, 04:01 PM   #27 (permalink)
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I think there's just some confusion on how people are counting/numbering the pins, I see where the confusion lie's, your counting from 1-10 from left to right on the ribbin wires, so YES it's wires 4,5,8. on my end I'm useing the numbers the way the pins correspond to the wires 6,9,10, so there's were the confusion was. both ways are correct, all depends how you tracing them out.
24v side getting= 25.36v
12v side getting= 12.65v

Last edited by J DAMAGE; 10-16-2011 at 05:38 PM..
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Old 10-16-2011, 08:46 PM   #28 (permalink)
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J Damage finally did it !!!!!!!!!!! thanks again for sticking with me bro
Just a recap, ribbon starting from red hehe, 1=red ! ok 1,2 shorted to ground DC terminal, 4,5,8 shorted together, right side screw removed and isolate board from case, on left side both jumpers snipped, blue and purple wires capped.
This is all done with Hot-Swap removed !!

Thanks for everyones help, now all i need is a t-550 ! ++++
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Old 10-16-2011, 09:24 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Any time bro, and sorry for the miss understanding in the beginning, with the ribbin wire, Im so use to using the numbers by the way they trace out, I confused you and my self.
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Old 11-16-2011, 05:37 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Ok my finished product !
Thanks for every ones help here at Helifreaks !!!!
One final question when going in series for 24v, do I use the + or - on the isolated supply to complete my circuit.
The pic I posted is using the neg side of the isolated supp and the positive of the normally grounded supp.
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Old 11-16-2011, 07:16 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thanasi View Post
Ok my finished product !

The pic I posted is using the neg side of the isolated supp and the positive of the normally grounded supp.
I believe that is correct.
And if you use 12V, connect to the grounded PS.

The finished product looks very clean. I like the handles.
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Old 11-16-2011, 09:20 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by The WoodCrafter View Post
I believe that is correct.
And if you use 12V, connect to the grounded PS.

The finished product looks very clean. I like the handles.
Thanks W crafter ! i haven used them yet but will be doing so after my 550 build !
And the handles ? i give thanks to J DAMAGE for that one i stole his idea i hope he doesnt mind
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Old 11-18-2011, 10:52 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Good details here

http://sites.google.com/site/tjinguy...projects/HP47A

and for 24v

http://sites.google.com/site/tjinguy...ts/diy-24v-47a

I cut the 2 jumper wires, and replaced the metal post with a plastic one

Plus I added a 33V 5W zener diode from the positive to the case (AC ground) on the floating DC power supply. It adds a bit of extra protection.
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Old 11-18-2011, 02:26 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The WoodCrafter View Post
I believe that is correct.
And if you use 12V, connect to the grounded PS.

The finished product looks very clean. I like the handles.
Put the 12V from the other PS in the UNGROUNDED - of the other PS. that way the charger is grounded, and 2 things will happen: You will not get the risk of shorting your system out due to the charger hitting the cases, and 2: USB support actually works.
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Old 11-18-2011, 03:56 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nko15 View Post
Put the 12V from the other PS in the UNGROUNDED - of the other PS. that way the charger is grounded, and 2 things will happen: You will not get the risk of shorting your system out due to the charger hitting the cases, and 2: USB support actually works.

I don't understand the logic here.

Use the UNGROUNDED PS for the 12V?
Because if the grounded charger hits it it wouldn't short out?
Is that what you are saying?

That makes no sense.
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Old 11-18-2011, 10:21 PM   #36 (permalink)
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I ckd tjinguy site on his conversion but i didnt find anything about the connections in specific to wich ps to use for + or - for 24v.
Im no expert, what bothers be is both ways seem ok ??
I think i just started a whole other problem !!!!!
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Old 11-19-2011, 05:15 AM   #37 (permalink)
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To get 24V you need to modify just one of the power supplies to cut the 2 jumpers on one side and remove the post from the other.

Then you connect the positive of the grounded power supply to the negative of the modifed powersupply.
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Old 11-19-2011, 08:03 AM   #38 (permalink)
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So this would be right correct? The PS on the left is the isolated one. I have been charging like this, but have never touched the charger to the ps.




As far as shorting out the ribbon, I wanted to share how I did this.
I removed the header from the hot swap board, then removed the unnecessary pins. Soldered 1 and 2 to a ground lead and soldered 458 together, then filled the back of the connector with epoxy. Worked great for me.





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Old 11-19-2011, 09:39 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RusElKnight View Post
So this would be right correct? The PS on the left is the isolated one. I have been charging like this, but have never touched the charger to the ps.
Yep.

The negative lead will connect AC ground to DC ground to your charger
You can test this with the power supplies unplugged.


Here is a better picture for the thread
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=243

Instead of cutting the PCB tracks on the right. I drilled out the metal post and replaced it with a plastic one.
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Old 11-20-2011, 04:05 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thanasi View Post
Thanks W crafter ! i haven used them yet but will be doing so after my 550 build !
And the handles ? i give thanks to J DAMAGE for that one i stole his idea i hope he doesnt mind
I don't mind it at all, were all here to help each other out, glade it worked out for you, hook up like the drawings I emailed you.
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