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X7 Discussion and support of the Gaui X7


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Old 02-23-2012, 02:30 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdsexton View Post
Here is what I would do:

Take the arm off the grip. Run the M4 bolt through the grip without the arm to see if it will EASILY pass through all of the threads. If you have any damaged threads, the screw will require a bit of effort to bottom out. If the screw bottoms out without any issue, loctite and go about your day. If you encounter any resistance or it won't bottom out, get a new grip.

If you know anyone with a M4 tap, that would be the best way, run a tap through gently to make sure threads are clean.
Threads look and feel perfect. I bet the strain of a crash like that loosened up the bolts.
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Old 02-23-2012, 03:15 PM   #62 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by akschu View Post
Wow, you bent the feathering shaft? That thing is huge, but then again, you did sheer of the main shaft.
Yep. I didn't think so at first, but when you spin the spindle, the distance between the the grip arms changes just a little, 0.12mm to be exact. Yes, so small I had to measure with a caliper to see that it was bent.

...there's gotta be a dirty joke in there somewhere.
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Old 02-23-2012, 04:19 PM   #63 (permalink)
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Threads look and feel perfect. I bet the strain of a crash like that loosened up the bolts.
Based on those pictures, I would say so. Use red and have fun

Although I agree, for a bird this big, two bolts in the arm would have made me feel better.
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Old 02-23-2012, 04:57 PM   #64 (permalink)
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I just used green, 609 Retainer. Only some heat will release it now. lmao.

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Old 02-23-2012, 06:16 PM   #65 (permalink)
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I bet that little 4mm bolt stretched a bit in the crash. If it was me and the threads were toast, I would just drill and tap for a 10-32 bolt. If it came out clean and bolted tight (you can tell when it's right) I would run it, otherwise new grips.

Glad to see your head is just fine.
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Old 02-23-2012, 08:10 PM   #66 (permalink)
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I just used green, 609 Retainer. Only some heat will release it now. lmao.

609 is an retainer not a thread lock if I'm not mistaken...Ideal for bearing fixtures and such.
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Old 02-23-2012, 08:12 PM   #67 (permalink)
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Does this build require Red Locktite?
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Old 02-23-2012, 08:28 PM   #68 (permalink)
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Kit comes with a tube of red, use red everywhere on this beast!
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Old 02-23-2012, 08:32 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by rotaryguy View Post
609 is an retainer not a thread lock if I'm not mistaken...Ideal for bearing fixtures and such.
Oh, it sure holds on threads! Holds forever until you apply some heat. I've used it only on the most stubborn of bolts that vibrate loose. Never use this stuff where you can't apply heat, it's otherwise permanent! Also, I never use it on M1.5 bolts, the bolt head snaps off if you try to remove without heat, sometimes even with heat.


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Old 02-23-2012, 08:56 PM   #70 (permalink)
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I have only ever put helis together with Blue locktite, whats the difference?
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Old 02-23-2012, 09:17 PM   #71 (permalink)
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Red will require real effort and most likely heat to get off.


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Old 02-23-2012, 09:26 PM   #72 (permalink)
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So will blue work just fine?
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Old 02-23-2012, 09:35 PM   #73 (permalink)
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I would recommend putting red anywhere you don't need to pull apart for routine maintenance. But that's just me.


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Old 02-23-2012, 09:46 PM   #74 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdsexton View Post
I would recommend putting red anywhere you don't need to pull apart for routine maintenance. But that's just me.


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Old 02-23-2012, 09:55 PM   #75 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irishmatt18 View Post
So will blue work just fine?
Sure, just don't use blue on critical parts or areas subject to high vibes like boom supports, spindle screws, tail hub set screws, motor mounts, pinions, etc. I strategically use blue throughout my builds, but mostly red.

When in doubt use red!



Red is also a pain when used on these M3 bolts with M2 heads. I have to make sure I use my good allen set for loosening them up, my hex drivers will usually snap, or strip. I have an assortment of M3 bolts I'll be putting in place of Gaui's M3/M2 button head bolts. Just a preference of mine.
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Old 02-24-2012, 01:20 AM   #76 (permalink)
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I used blue just about everywhere including the main grips. When I pulled one apart a few hours ago I had to put a bit of force on it, and it popped loose as the loctite came apart. Personally, I think blue is just fine unless it's in a high heat area, and I only use green on pinions that are going onto a round shaft, and I've test flown enough that I'm going to stick with that gear.

If you look at the docs, red holds to 150-350 lb/in of torque on a m10 bolt, while blue holds to 71-168 lb/in. Either is plenty, given that neither are going to back themselves out, but the red can be much more difficult to remove. In fact, if you don't use a little heat and you are removing a small steel bolt from aluminum, red is strong enough that it could damage the threads, and green must have heat or your going to tear up the bolt.

Also, 6061 is annealing at 775F, which is not a ton more than the 500F that you need to break down red, so you really need to be careful.

The only two places I have red is on the tail grips (because I didn't want them very tight, so I'm using the loctite to hold them, instead of making them tight and using blue) and the main motor because of heat, and it's easy to get heat onto the bolts for disassembly.
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Old 02-24-2012, 09:02 AM   #77 (permalink)
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by akschu View Post
I used blue just about everywhere including the main grips. When I pulled one apart a few hours ago I had to put a bit of force on it, and it popped loose as the loctite came apart. Personally, I think blue is just fine unless it's in a high heat area, and I only use green on pinions that are going onto a round shaft, and I've test flown enough that I'm going to stick with that gear.

If you look at the docs, red holds to 150-350 lb/in of torque on a m10 bolt, while blue holds to 71-168 lb/in. Either is plenty, given that neither are going to back themselves out, but the red can be much more difficult to remove. In fact, if you don't use a little heat and you are removing a small steel bolt from aluminum, red is strong enough that it could damage the threads, and green must have heat or your going to tear up the bolt.

Also, 6061 is annealing at 775F, which is not a ton more than the 500F that you need to break down red, so you really need to be careful.

The only two places I have red is on the tail grips (because I didn't want them very tight, so I'm using the loctite to hold them, instead of making them tight and using blue) and the main motor because of heat, and it's easy to get heat onto the bolts for disassembly.
I would never use anything but red on a spindle shaft. I would rather ruin a spindle shaft or m5 bolt than risk it backing out.

Another solution is to use the green loctite that is not a retainer compound, I forget the number off the top of my head, but it's a little stronger than blue 242 but has more oil resistance. Removable on m2 and up without heat usually. Most people really overdue the threadlock. you just need about 1/4 of the threads covered, the rest will get coated as the bolt is inserted.

Rob,

Before I even ordered an X7 I purchased about $30 in socket head cap screws from McMaster Carr, 12.9 grade. If you need some let me know. The little 2mm heads on the gaui's just don't sit well with me!
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Old 02-26-2012, 01:33 PM   #78 (permalink)
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How goes the rebuild rob? Were you hung up on any parts availability?



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Old 02-28-2012, 01:00 AM   #79 (permalink)
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Quote:
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How goes the rebuild rob? Were you hung up on any parts availability?



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Eh. Haven't been in a hurry, waiting on funds. Lol.
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Old 02-29-2012, 10:35 PM   #80 (permalink)
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I cry when my MCPX takes a digger. I don't think I would survive a crash of that magnitude. Good luck getting it back in the air.
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