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mCP X Brushless Mods Blade Micro CPx Brushless Mods and Conversions


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Old 03-02-2012, 05:18 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Well I see, more work is to be done. The setting are not kept after th first, because of the stupid page erase in the code memory.
So all the nice "EEprom" settings should be allwas rewritten
Is there a page empty in total?
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Old 03-02-2012, 07:15 PM   #42 (permalink)
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amazing work sskaug

Can anyone comment on how the brushless tail motors stand up in a crash? I have a bad habit of crashing on my tail and I always break the wires on the SR 120 tail motor I would like to try this but worry about breaking tail motors which are more expensive.
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Old 03-02-2012, 08:07 PM   #43 (permalink)
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@Steffen: Another question concerning your great work:

On some ESCs you marked some resistors? for removal.
Do they need to be removed before programming
or just before running the ESC with the motor?
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Old 03-02-2012, 08:11 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rfto View Post
@Steffen: Another question concerning your great work:

On some ESCs you marked some resistors? for removal.
Do they need to be removed before programming
or just before running the ESC with the motor?
The capacitors on the XP-7A and XP-12A can be removed after flashing the code on the ESC's.
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Old 03-02-2012, 08:13 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by khogan View Post
amazing work sskaug

Can anyone comment on how the brushless tail motors stand up in a crash? I have a bad habit of crashing on my tail and I always break the wires on the SR 120 tail motor I would like to try this but worry about breaking tail motors which are more expensive.
Not as durable as a coreless motor, really the only trade-off when running the brushless tail!
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Old 03-02-2012, 09:27 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Yes, and HP03T motors
Can't wait!
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Old 03-02-2012, 10:43 PM   #47 (permalink)
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With another esc on the board for the brushless tail, anybody know the thin yellow tape that's used on the lipos or i think i saw somebody used it to tape wires onto the 3 in 1. I tried using the servo tape that Dylan mentioned (Works pretty good). I also used the servo tape + shrink wrap which works great but the shrink wrap is too heavy. Double servo tape (one on the main board and one on the esc then put them together) the esc still came off the servo tape. I was thinking of using the servo tape + the thin orange/yellow? tape around the esc then put onto the servo tape. Want a light weight solution with 2 escs now on the 3 in 1.
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Old 03-02-2012, 11:27 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Its Kapton tape, look on Ebay.

Did you clean the surfaces with alcohol before using the double sided tape? I rarely ever have it come loose on me...
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Old 03-02-2012, 11:55 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Thanks Dylan.

I did not clean the esc's surface with alcohol before using the double sided servo tape. The servo tape never comes off the 3 in 1, only off the 3A escs since they dont have much surface area to stick to. I have the fet side up though. I think the fet side on the tape would have more contact with the tape. I'll try the Kapton tape with silicone adhesive + the servo tape.

Steffen,
For the xp 7a esc, why remove the capacitor? I think it was mentioned by 4712 that the pwm input (rcp input?) would be 8khz if you desolder it. If you don't desolder it, the rcp input is just something else? It seems safer not to desolder that tiny cap (I've done it on one of my xp 7a, actually it was broken anyways the rcp in pin was broken on the mcu).


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Its Kapton tape, look on Ebay.

Did you clean the surfaces with alcohol before using the double sided tape? I rarely ever have it come loose on me...
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Old 03-03-2012, 12:18 AM   #50 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by briareos7777 View Post
Thanks Dylan.

I did not clean the esc's surface with alcohol before using the double sided servo tape. The servo tape never comes off the 3 in 1, only off the 3A escs since they dont have much surface area to stick to. I have the fet side up though. I think the fet side on the tape would have more contact with the tape. I'll try the Kapton tape with silicone adhesive + the servo tape.
Ahh, try cleaning the ESC and do a double layer of tape, first layer cut away for the big input cap, second layer over the whole thing.

Dylan
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Old 03-03-2012, 03:36 AM   #51 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Not as durable as a coreless motor, really the only trade-off when running the brushless tail!
Well I have not yet broken a BL tail motor in the mCP X. But I guess the weak point is the thin wires, so it depends a lot on how well the wires are protected in the tail mount.
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Old 03-03-2012, 03:50 AM   #52 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by briareos7777 View Post

Steffen,
For the xp 7a esc, why remove the capacitor? I think it was mentioned by 4712 that the pwm input (rcp input?) would be 8khz if you desolder it. If you don't desolder it, the rcp input is just something else? It seems safer not to desolder that tiny cap (I've done it on one of my xp 7a, actually it was broken anyways the rcp in pin was broken on the mcu).
The capacitor should be removed. For both v1 and v2 3in1 boards. But as Achim says, it's most important for v1 3in1's that gives 8kHz. Removing the cap does not change the frequency, it only allows sharper and better signal edges on the signal input.
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Old 03-03-2012, 04:09 AM   #53 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sskaug View Post
Well I have not yet broken a BL tail motor in the mCP X. But I guess the weak point is the thin wires, so it depends a lot on how well the wires are protected in the tail mount.
Very true, I haven't broken one yet either, but I had only broken a few coreless in 100's of crashes

I built a double brushless for someone and he managed to break the tail motor in 2 seconds... Mostly my fault, I forgot to tell him to set his throttle curve to 78% and he took off at 100% throttle on the HP06V2, and it was balanced for 6300RPM, not 7000+ so it was all over the place.

I am most likely going to re-design the tail motor mounts, so they are all Inline and use 2 screws to secure the motor, this way you could use a 125mm boom with the RRC 65mm prop without clearance issues.

The HP03T motors are an easy fix with limited motor winding experience, very basic wind with easy to find wire.

I have been testing with the DP-3A with replaced FET's on the tail, and its performing good, but I dont think its as solid as the Walkera 10A with 2.2 on it. It may just be too that the HP05S doesn't like being governed, not enough overhead so its seeing full throttle too much. XP-7A on the main. This is with the stock settings too, I haven't changed any gain values yet, so that might help. The tail is as good as the 120SR when you run the HP05S at 100% throttle though, using the "old" HP03T

Is it at all possible to make an adapter PCB to mount the Silabs chip on the Walkera ESC, or is the design too different? Just a thought, I know very little about ESC design or MCU use....

I also flew the HP05S/9 tooth with a stock XP-3A controlling it...Couldn't tell much of a difference between it and the XP-7A, and the hottest it got was 120F, mind you its only 50F out though...

Thanks again Steffan, If I didn't have to run a business I would do nothing but try different combo's out now for the next month

I am going to try and get some video of the HP06V2 double brushless this weekend, everyone I have flown it for immediately said they needed the exact same setup, I have flown it side to side with the 915 and would choose the HP06V2 double brushless over it every time...But we have yet to run the 915 Governed, so who knows in the end!

Dylan
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Old 03-03-2012, 07:26 AM   #54 (permalink)
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Thanks for the input Dylan! Sounds like very happy modding and flying
I really like the idea of an inline tail motor mount . Never liked the twisting that you get from a raised mount.
The Silabs chips do not come in a package that can be mounted on a Walkera board, so that one is a hard one without board redesign...
I believe another factor that comes into play is the weight of the esc. A heavier esc attached to the 3in1 will help dampen vibrations.
If the point is the same low fet resistance, then triple or quadruple replaced fets will do it

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Old 03-04-2012, 10:05 AM   #55 (permalink)
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Was going to ask Dylan this by email, but thought others might have the same question...

Dylan, are the transmitter selectable programming options still available on an XP-7a that has been flashed with Seffen's code?

Don't really care about setting the throttle range, as that would kinda defeat the purpose of the governor mode, but a few of the other options like start type, start power, timing, and motor direction would be kinda handy to have access to.
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Old 03-04-2012, 10:17 AM   #56 (permalink)
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Here a link from the first post in this thread:
https://www.helifreak.com/attachment...4&d=1329318844

Have a look at page 4
HTH
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Old 03-04-2012, 10:24 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4712 View Post
Here a link from the first post in this thread:
https://www.helifreak.com/attachment...4&d=1329318844

Have a look at page 4
HTH
That helps a bunch, thanks!

The option to reverse motor direction isn't there, darn it. I *always* lose the 50/50 shot at soldering it for correct motor rotation direction.
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Old 03-04-2012, 10:25 AM   #58 (permalink)
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Beat me to it!

Yes the programming works the same as on the BLheli for Atmels.

It helps to unplug the servo's when programming on some setups, I could barely hear the beeps coming from the 915, had to have it up against an ear!

You can't select start type, throttle range or motor reverse, but you really dont need to....

Hey Steffan,

If we were to replace the FET's on the 12A with ones specified for 1S use do you have any recommendations?

Dylan
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Old 03-04-2012, 10:26 AM   #59 (permalink)
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Yup, I'm more like 10/90 right/wrong on the motor direction

On the tail I leave all 3 wires long, solder them to the ESC and check direction, then shorten and re-route them as clean as possible when I know the direction is right. I dont like using plugs on anything anymore.....
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Old 03-04-2012, 10:46 AM   #60 (permalink)
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Can the ESC be driven off the main motor port with this firmware?
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