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Blade 450X Blade 450X Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 10-26-2014, 11:02 AM   #3801 (permalink)
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I like the black anti-slip tabs that you had on the skids. What are those from?
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Old 10-26-2014, 11:04 AM   #3802 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrRoboHeli View Post
I like the black anti-slip tabs that you had on the skids. What are those from?
I got them from my LHS... Not sure if they are specific to any heli.
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Old 10-26-2014, 12:15 PM   #3803 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrRoboHeli View Post
Ack. The elevator servo arm is banging into the aileron servo arm. I'll have to reposition the elevator servo horn and arm and try again. :p
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Originally Posted by jbrandt View Post
I noticed a similar thing on mine recently. Mine is 100% stock, and I notice that at full deflection, the circled servo arms contact. They both clear the canopy mount which is the "normal" spot I've heard the servo contacts...

I stole your image because I don't have one of my one handy, and circled what I'm talking about. Is this where yours in contacting too?
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrRoboHeli View Post
Yes, you've got it exactly.

I haven't had time to do anything about it yet, but I was going to pull both elevator servo horns off and re-mount them at a slightly different angle to see if I could get my full travel without having the horn banging either the canopy post or the aileron servo horn.

Okay!!! I've gone through the BeastX setup about a dozen times now and have gotten better at recognizing things that I missed on some step or other the previous time.

Regarding the previous question about the servo horn banging into the elevator servo bell crank, there were two problems that had to be addressed:

1) The eyelets on the links themselves were touching when they passed each other. I fixed that by putting the servo horn ball of the aileron servo behind the servo horn rather than in front like I had it before. Now the eyelets pass by each other without touching.

2) The tip of the servo horn was touching the bell crank as well. I fixed that by shaving about a millimeter of material off of the servo horn. Now they pass by each other with no problems.


Of course, this meant having to completely redo the servo setup from step G onward, but as you all have said, you start to get pretty good at it the more times you do it.
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Old 10-26-2014, 12:19 PM   #3804 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrRoboHeli View Post
I'm a little confused about step "G" of the BeastX setup right now. Here's my understanding.

- First make sure that the servo horns are installed at 90 degrees mechanically as close as possible.
- Then make small adjustments via the rudder/elevator to get the servos to align themselves even more closely.
- Then make length adjustments to the linkages to get the swashplate level and at the right height with the swash leveler tool.
- Then adjust the swash-to-bladegrip linkages to get the blades at 0 pitch.

Am I missing anything in there?
Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryR View Post
Correct , you work from the bottom up.

Just make sure when before you connect the servo's up ( link to swash) that you have the correct servo settings in the BeastX. Then, power up ( connect battery with ESC) and let the servo's initialize. That is the ZERO you have to work with. Then, re position the horns as close as possible to 90 degrees ( as in your first item in your message).. Remember to set your throttle at 50% when you set the swashplate and start adjusting the links to swash and thereafter the links from swash to grips /blades to get zero pitch ( at half stick) . AND finally, make sure you are working with a complete linear throttle setting that goes from 0 - 100% .

Thanks again. After not getting it right again last night, I decided to sleep on it and try it all over again from step G this morning. I did a little searching and found that it's important to have a servo selected (e.g. status light is blue, red, or purple but NOT black) when moving from step G to H. As others have said, it's a pity that the manual didn't say that.

I adjusted the length of the swash-to-servo links to make them a tad bit longer in order to get 0 pitch at center stick. I had first tried to change the swash-to-bladegrip links but then at step L, I was getting some bad binding in the swashplate itself at maximum aileron. But then after going back to step G, getting the swashplate level and then blade pitch at 0 degrees before going to steps J, K, and L, I'm happy to say that I think I've finally gotten the setup where I want it. I'm at 11 degrees of pitch (both directions) and I see no binding at any of the extremes of the cyclic throw at full negative, neutral, and full positive pitch.

Whew! What a process.
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Old 10-26-2014, 12:32 PM   #3805 (permalink)
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Aaaaaand, finally, I've realized that cable routing is an artform. I'd really like to see the training course and/or instruction manual that the EFlite/Blade folks use when they attach the wires to this heli at the factory.

Mine are in no way as pretty. Hopefully they'll be functional though. I did make sure that no wires are touching the BeastX (e.g. the servo wire from the rear) and that the wires that are plugged into the BeastX have some flex in them and are not too tight.








And here you can see how I mounted the link balls on the servo horns. I did it on the inside rather than the outside.

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Old 10-26-2014, 12:50 PM   #3806 (permalink)
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Your wiring looks fine. It isn't all that great from the factory anyway. All they do is a big U bend in the wires on the right side of the frame. But, if I were you, I'd slap some nuts on the backside of those ball studs. I think they're 2mm, but don't quote me on that. Use a TINY bit of locktite barely dabbed on the threads inside the nut and try not to get any on the plastic servo arm. Some will inevitably say you don't need to do this, but it's your choice.
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Old 10-26-2014, 12:54 PM   #3807 (permalink)
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Yeah, I thought about that. My JR DS290G tail servo came with a tiny little nut like that. I'll have to see if I can scare up some 2mm (or whatever the size turns out to be) nuts.
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Old 10-26-2014, 01:03 PM   #3808 (permalink)
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RTL Fasteners is great for small hobby hardware.
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Old 10-26-2014, 01:16 PM   #3809 (permalink)
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Mb bbc.co ppl
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Old 10-26-2014, 05:29 PM   #3810 (permalink)
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Took advantage of the awesome weather and flew the hell out of it!Click image for larger version

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Old 10-27-2014, 07:28 PM   #3811 (permalink)
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Hooray! My re-maiden of the 450X seemed to go okay with the new HiTec 5065MG cyclic servos and JR DS290G MG tail servo. My ESC was also set to 6V. I charged up a single pack and took it up to the field right after work today to try it out. The weather was just perfect for it as well. No too many days like this left for me this year!

I was extremely nervous when I was unpacking everything. I actually had to stop and take a few deep breaths to calm down a bit. Crazy, huh? Anyway, I got it all set up and put the heli out on the grass to start. When I lifted off, it was fine but I had some tail wag. I kind of expected this so I turned my tail gyro gain down from 77 (DX6i default) to 67 and that seemed to fix it. I flew around for 4 minutes just hovering and doing some lazy circuits and then landed it.

After I got back to the bench, I saw that I had two problems:

1) My ESC wire had a nick in the red cable insulation. It appears that I need to secure it better (probably with a tiewrap). I believe it bobbled around and struck the maingear. No exposed metal was visible through the nick, fortunately, but I'm kind of awestruck on how bad that could have been. I'm going to fill the gap with liquid electrical tape and then wrap a few layers of red electrical tape around it to seal it up good and proper.

2) I see that I had some white dust (presumably from the maingear) on the inside of my canopy and on the ESC wires. My motor and battery were warmer than I remember them being before. That leads me to believe that my pinion/maingear mesh is too tight.

How do you guys set the mesh? I presume that mine is too tight because of the evidence I described above. But, how can you tell if it's too loose? I don't want to lose teeth on the maingear, either. What's the secret for setting the right mesh?
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Old 10-27-2014, 08:03 PM   #3812 (permalink)
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I'd love to know the answer to the above cited question, as I maidened my Blade 450X today too. No problems to report other than I was a nervous wreck since I'm VERY new to flying helis (well, after a 20+ year lay-off) and only have about 40 or so gently flights on a Blade 450 3D which I also own.

Not sure I made the right choice with the Blade 450X as I have no desire to do acro...I'm actually more into scale. BUT - and this is a big but - I have a large back yard and the 450 is not too large to tool around in the yard anytime I want.

For now, I'm putting the X away and will continue to fly the 4503D which a club member set up for me to be a bit more sedate. I'm hoping to get through the initial awkward period with the 3D with the assistance of LOTS of practice with Real Flight V. 7 .

The answers to important questions like the above can't be found in RealFlight, though...It requires the collective wisdom of you senior members, so I hope to see an answer posted here so I can learn as well.

Best regards to all,

DH
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Old 10-27-2014, 08:27 PM   #3813 (permalink)
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Here's what one guy on RCGroups just told me:

Quote:
Grab a small piece of paper (printer paper)

Loose up the motor mount.
Then go and slide the paper between the gear and the pinion. And gently push the motor to the gear. Then carefully without letting the motor slip away or in, just tighten the motor. Then slide the paper out and that's your proper mesh.
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Old 10-27-2014, 08:28 PM   #3814 (permalink)
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A little white dust is normal. To set your mesh, loosen the motor screws, and roll a strip of printer paper in between the pinion and main gear. Use one hand to push the motor towards the main gear and tighten the screws with the other. The goal is to be able to run a strip of paper through, making it crinkle but not rip.

And it sounds like your ESC is fine.

Congrats, MrRobo.

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Old 10-28-2014, 08:43 AM   #3815 (permalink)
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When you say crinkle but not rip the paper, how do you go about removing the paper? Do you pull it down so that it slide out from between the teeth? Do you pull it through the gears (without moving the gears) so that the strip of paper comes out without ripping somehow? Do you rotate the motor and so that the paper is pulled through the meshed teeth?

When I did this last night, the only way I could get the paper out without ripping was to manually rotate the motor to let the gears move the paper. Is that too tight?
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Old 10-28-2014, 09:34 AM   #3816 (permalink)
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You did the right thing. Rotate the motor by hand.
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Old 10-28-2014, 09:39 AM   #3817 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrRoboHeli View Post
Is that too tight?
There is no reason to have the gear mesh tight. You want the least amount of friction possible between pinion and main gear and the paper gives you the space you need.

Try setting the mesh by placing the paper between the pinion and gear before you tighten the 4 mount bolts. With the paper between the gear and pinion, gently press the motor mount toward the main gear til you feel any gap close, set 4 bolts and then remove paper.
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Old 10-28-2014, 10:43 AM   #3818 (permalink)
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And, then re-check the mesh all the way around the entire main gear. Blade isn't exactly known for the preciseness of their molded plastic gears. They are very often slightly out of round and may even wobble up and down when spun. You need to first set the mesh at the tightest spot on the main gear. And, then you should keep re-checking it for a while as the tight spot on the main gear wears down. That's why I like steel pinions better than the softer stock Blade brass pinions. Steel will "win" over the plastic main gear and, eventually, the tight spots on the main gear will be worn down making the gear much truer overall. Or, even better, just get a Lynx slant main gear/pinion and not even worry about it after the initial mesh setting.
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Old 10-28-2014, 11:48 AM   #3819 (permalink)
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Fantastic! Thank you so much for the additional insight. It really helps and I greatly appreciate it.
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Old 10-28-2014, 11:57 AM   #3820 (permalink)
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Great advice on the paper. Live and learn!

DH
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