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Finless Bob's Helifreak Tech Room Finless Bob's Helifreak Tech Room - Tips and how-To Videos


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Old 11-12-2007, 07:57 PM   #221 (permalink)
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Take a look at Bob's 600 E Video for that info

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=13791
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Old 11-13-2007, 03:04 AM   #222 (permalink)
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No good. The 600E has the tail servo on the boom whereas the 600N (Sport) has it in the frame with the same bell crank arrangement as the 600N Pro.
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Old 11-13-2007, 04:45 AM   #223 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBum View Post
Thanks for the great video series (as usual).

Is there any chance that you could do a single video on the non-Pro tail, even if you have to borrow a buddy's heli to do it? I noticed from Align's web site that the non-Pro 600N uses the same dual link system for the tail rotor pitch as the 600N Pro and I'd be curious to know well it works with a belt-driven tail, particularly in setting the belt tension. I have my doubts.
OK... sorry.... I have NO CLUE what your asking?

Bob
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Old 11-13-2007, 07:36 AM   #224 (permalink)
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Quote:
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OK... sorry.... I have NO CLUE what your asking?

Bob
I think he is askin if pulling on the tail-boom to increase belt-tension messes with yr tail rod lengths significantly!

Just set yr belt tension first, then adjust your tail-rod lengths to get the tail pitch you want.

Or put yr tail servo on the boom (a la 600E) and use the spare hole for your carbsmart mixture servo (cos too many servos is never enough!!!)

cheers Mat
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Old 11-13-2007, 09:04 AM   #225 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by maaatvee View Post
I think he is askin if pulling on the tail-boom to increase belt-tension messes with yr tail rod lengths significantly!

Just set yr belt tension first, then adjust your tail-rod lengths to get the tail pitch you want
Thanks, Mat. Yes, that's what I was alluding to. However, it's more than the initial setup I'm concerned about. The belt will stretch somewhat as time goes on, so am I correct in assuming that every time the belt would need re-tensioning that the long linkage would have to be adjusted?

I've gotten used to the fact that re-tensioning the belt on my Diablo only requires adjusting the boom in the boom clamp and not having to mess with the linkage since the servo stays stationary relative to the tail. All that appears to go out the window with the servo in the frame.
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Old 11-13-2007, 11:58 AM   #226 (permalink)
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so am I correct in assuming that every time the belt would need re-tensioning that the long linkage would have to be adjusted?
That is correct. What might be a good idea is before you move the boom mark where the pitch slider is on the shaft with a sharpy pen. Now adjust the boom. When done adjust the link on the push rod at the tail to put the slider back in the same spot. Done!

Bob
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Old 11-13-2007, 02:52 PM   #227 (permalink)
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Good idea. I'm not at the point where I'm financially ready to buy a 600N, but I'll keep that in mind should I choose the 600N Sport over (under?) the 600N Pro.
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Old 11-15-2007, 08:12 PM   #228 (permalink)
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Bob's vids rock, I downloaded them all, put them on a cd so that I could pop it in my laptop.

Carried my laptop over to the workbench(kitchen table!) and have been mostly ignoring the instruction manual during assembly. It's great, I just pause it while I'm doing a step, or it's easy to click backwards to get a repeat of a section.

So far I have the head all assembled, took apart and re-assembled the main gear set, and took the clutch/hub/oneway apart. I hope to get a lot done later tonight when I get home from work.
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Old 11-16-2007, 01:55 PM   #229 (permalink)
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Let me tell you...

I bought a 600N Sport and I put it together almost 90% from the videos. The only time I actually looked at the manual was when Bob was putting together the tail/torque tube assembly. THANK BOB FOR THE VIDEOS!!!!!!!!!! You rock! I have a Trex 450 SA so for me it was my 1st Helicopter Kit. I have 7 flights on it and it is sweeeeeet.
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Old 11-16-2007, 07:49 PM   #230 (permalink)
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Hey Bob have you Tried these yet?

http://www.rchover.com/inc/sdetail/116063
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Old 11-17-2007, 06:21 AM   #231 (permalink)
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Bob, I just watched the video on the tank and had an idea. You said not to use the thin wall fuel tubing for the clunk because it has a way of coming off. What about useing a few zip ties to pinch the tubing around the inner smaller diameterof the nipple. A photo is worth a thousand words right? Here is what I mean.
What are your thoughts on this?
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Old 11-17-2007, 10:22 AM   #232 (permalink)
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Yes this is a good idea and I have use it before.
The problem with some tubing is not that they come off it's that the gasses from the muffler (coming in through the pressure tap) and the fuel "eat" at the line and the stuff splits at the connection nipples.

So yea good idea but keep you eye on the line and inspect it from time to time.
Also after every flight ALWAYS fill the tank to expel the gasses. If your done for the day, fill the tank and pump it back out.

Bob
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Old 11-17-2007, 02:13 PM   #233 (permalink)
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I just finished installing the servos and setting up the linkages for all the bellcranks.

I don't like the fact that the align wheels do not fit tight on the output shaft, there is a very tiny amount of play. However when tightened down they don't move so I'll try them and inspect them periodically for signs of moving around.

I'm almost done with the tail assembly.

My question is, I haven't seen the step for tightening down the setscrew for the bellcrank shaft(for the middle bellcrank between the frame halves. I know bob said to leave it loose for the time being while installing the shaft and the outer bellcranks.

Is that step a ways off(am I getting ahead of myself) or did I miss it somewhere?
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Old 11-17-2007, 03:28 PM   #234 (permalink)
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Thanks Bob. What if I am using a YS motor and the pressure comes from the crank and not the muffler. I assume these gasses should not be an issue? Is it OK to store the heli with a full tank?
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Old 11-19-2007, 11:06 AM   #235 (permalink)
 

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Hi Bob! Thanks for the useful and helping vids!! Really a smart way to get friendly with the trexN!
Just a little question, I'm new with nitro hely and I still can not do the engine setup and carb. setup. I'm stuck with the setup of the needle and idle valves. Any tips about setting them up? I know I should leave the idle as it is but how many clicks should I close the needle from the 1.5 turns raccomended by the manual? I'm going to use Cool power 30% (is it a good percentage of nitro or too much?) Thanks for the support!!!
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Old 11-19-2007, 11:32 AM   #236 (permalink)
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Once you have run a few tanks 4-5, then start moving it in a click or 2 and run it... You should feel power getting better as you start to lean it out. If you go too far the engine will sound like it is screaming at you and will make what some refer to as a "bark" when you hit the throttle. Now as you try it 1-2 clicks in at a time run it and land and do the finger test in the bottom of the motor. If you cant hold your finger there for a few seconds YOUR TOO LEAN.

In general if you have the needle less than 3/4 turn out you probably too lean. I am about 1 click in on a full turn but I change this based on conditions for that day!

Bob
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Old 11-19-2007, 01:19 PM   #237 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Once you have run a few tanks 4-5, then start moving it in a click or 2 and run it... You should feel power getting better as you start to lean it out. If you go too far the engine will sound like it is screaming at you and will make what some refer to as a "bark" when you hit the throttle. Now as you try it 1-2 clicks in at a time run it and land and do the finger test in the bottom of the motor. If you cant hold your finger there for a few seconds YOUR TOO LEAN.

In general if you have the needle less than 3/4 turn out you probably too lean. I am about 1 click in on a full turn but I change this based on conditions for that day!

Bob
Being new to nitro and still learning a lot!! I did my 6 tanks rich and I wanted to feel and learn the differences in power and noise my engine made when changing the mixture. So the best way I found was to let it run dry. On my 5th thank I hovered from 15' and let it run till the end. That was very interesting, you can CLEARLY EAR the difference. The sound rises in pitch, you really gain head speed so the heli goes up quite a bit and than POUFF! It just dies. I finished with a nice auto and that was it. I figure I did an "In flight pinch test"

I hope I did not damage my engine, it worked fine the rest of the day.

Marc
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Old 11-19-2007, 04:58 PM   #238 (permalink)
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Quote:
I hope I did not damage my engine, it worked fine the rest of the day.
Not a good thing to do really and yes this can damage the engine.

I guess I will have to do a video on tuning better but I also dont want to damage my engine by showing what too lean sounds like! Tuff thing to show without possibly damaging an engine!

Bob
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Old 11-19-2007, 05:29 PM   #239 (permalink)
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Not a good thing to do really and yes this can damage the engine.

I guess I will have to do a video on tuning better but I also dont want to damage my engine by showing what too lean sounds like! Tuff thing to show without possibly damaging an engine!

Bob
Well I guess I was lucky then, it flew well after that. I must say that it took less than 4 sec from the time it went from rich to dead. So it did not run long lean.
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Old 11-19-2007, 09:54 PM   #240 (permalink)
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Guys one small thing I found, is that if you plan to use the tab for the remote glow driver, take the socket head screw to a wire wheel and get the black coating off it.

My remote glow wouldn't work because the coating on the screw was preventing the current from flowing to the engine mount hence interrupting the circuit. I cleaned off the screw(mainly trying to get the underside of the socket head) and it worked great after that. It's a real nice feature, no running a ground wire.
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