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130X Blade 130X Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 07-11-2012, 10:39 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Blade 130x Repair Videos

For anyone who needs some help repairing their Blade 130x, James Haley showing some common repairs.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mhvXWUNjfFY[/ame]

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=My_OxHGw9WE[/ame]

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MV8Cp0s-3wk[/ame]
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Old 07-11-2012, 11:14 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Very well done. Thank you Brian. Those little gears in the tail are a pain in the butt to handle and get on the shafts.

Tom
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Old 07-11-2012, 11:32 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Excellent. I've been waiting for these videos. Even when not immediately needed they are great education. I learned a lot watching the MCPX versions. Thanks.
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Old 07-11-2012, 11:41 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Since it wasn't shown in the video I figured I would post this picture that Picker posted in another thread, it shows the easiest way to install the D gear.


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Old 07-11-2012, 12:17 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Very nice!
I kind of want to take mine apart just to put it back together again. I have yet to be given a reason to take it apart.
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Old 07-11-2012, 01:04 PM   #6 (permalink)
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You can have mine to practice on! The A gear stripped after 4 flights. Waiting for parts. Very frustrating as this is the heli I most want to fly right now.

Oh well, I'll just have to beat up my mCPXs. Don't want to fly the 450X right now because I couldn't stand to crash and have two birds down at the same time.

Videos are good and it looks like repairs etc are going to be similar to the mCPX. We will all become experts on TT tail drives in a very short time.
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Old 07-11-2012, 01:08 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thank you HH guys! Very nice and we need to sticky this post!
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Old 07-11-2012, 01:39 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Hi James,

Many thanks for making available these repair vids, they are quite informative for anyone who has not yet taken apart their 130x. Truthfully, I wouldh've like these vids included in the box on a disc so I wouldn't have had to discover this stuff out by myself over the last week. FYI I own 2 130x's since day one of release and many spare parts already in my arsenal.

Now that I have your attention I'd like to bring up something I've discovered along the way which i consider defective. The pic is pretty explanatory as to show how 2 out of 3 tail shaft/hub assemblies I have came crooked this way... btw the 3rd part (on the right) is a good one!




Another issue I'd like to bring up... As a multiple mCPX owner, we have learned that we have to take apart and clean the linear servos periodically. This is not going to be that simple on the 130x frame design seeing the elevator servo cannot be removed without spliting the frame... unlike the simplicity of the mCPX design. May I ask why this wasn't considered in the engineering of this wonderful heli from the get go? Why couldn't it have been designed to simply slide up and out for serviceability?

I'm sure by now you know the flanged tail bearings are very poor quality as they come in the kit. The evidence is that if you replace them with better quality bearings the vibration (in the tail) you state during spool-up as "normal" will diminish greatly... this has happen for me.

I will also mention the bearing in the tail slider is also very poor quality and even if it starts out fine it seem to deteriorate in not many flights.

There are other things I could mention but this is enough for now. Please understand that I want this heli to fly and be as successful as you do and I know I speak for many others in this forum when I state this.

This really is a wonderful Heli James and I look forward to many of these initial problems being ironed out... please continue to participate like you're doing... it means alot that you do so to this community.

Many thanks from me!
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Old 07-11-2012, 01:41 PM   #9 (permalink)
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A thousand thank you for this video. It made a lot of things easier for me when working on it. It takes me about 15 min to change out carbon gear and rear gear now I can probably do it in 10. Also from the factory my tail boom is way too far away from the frame and that is probably why I kept losing the front metal torque tube gear.
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Old 07-11-2012, 02:30 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks for posting Brian. This could certainly be a sticky.
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Old 07-11-2012, 03:10 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Thanks for this, very informative!
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Old 07-11-2012, 03:44 PM   #12 (permalink)
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So after watching this I left work went right home and pushed my tail shaft all the way in to seat it. Needless to say there was about 5-6mm of shaft I pushed in. That would explain all of the lossed front metal torque tube gears. Quite angry about this as it has cost me so much to replace these. I imagine now they wont be going anywhere considering the torque tube is jammed all the way in it now.
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Old 07-11-2012, 04:08 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Way2evl View Post
So after watching this I left work went right home and pushed my tail shaft all the way in to seat it. Needless to say there was about 5-6mm of shaft I pushed in. That would explain all of the lossed front metal torque tube gears. Quite angry about this as it has cost me so much to replace these. I imagine now they wont be going anywhere considering the torque tube is jammed all the way in it now.
Make sure it is your tail boom moving and not your tail case. My tail case will move freely on my tail boom which will also move your c tail gear off the torque tube. Some type of clamp should be add to tail case so that it is secured to tail boom.
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Old 07-11-2012, 04:21 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t_austin View Post
Make sure it is your tail boom moving and not your tail case. My tail case will move freely on my tail boom which will also move your c tail gear off the torque tube. Some type of clamp should be add to tail case so that it is secured to tail boom.
Tight as can be from the factory it was my tail boom that was not pushed in all the way like he stated it should be in the video. First time I every pulled off my tail case it was really difficult. Now it comes off with a good tug. I always check tail case before every flight and after every crash. I push on case and gears to make sure they are securley on the torque tube.
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Old 07-11-2012, 04:29 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Way2evl View Post
Tight as can be from the factory it was my tail boom that was not pushed in all the way like he stated it should be in the video. First time I every pulled off my tail case it was really difficult. Now it comes off with a good tug. I always check tail case before every flight and after every crash. I push on case and gears to make sure they are securley on the torque tube.
Just make sure there is a little play in the gear mesh between the A gear and the B gear.

Not all booms and torque tubes are the same size, if you happen to have a tail boom that is a little short then pushing it all the way in could cause the A gear to wear.

Mine happens to be the perfect length so pushing it all the way in left the perfect amount of play between the two gears but yours may or may not be the perfect length.
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Old 07-11-2012, 04:41 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3vw View Post

Now that I have your attention I'd like to bring up something I've discovered along the way which i consider defective. The pic is pretty explanatory as to show how 2 out of 3 tail shaft/hub assemblies I have came crooked this way... btw the 3rd part (on the right) is a good one!


That is pretty sad to say the least and speaks volumes regarding QC when it comes to the production of this bird. I would pay good money for a quality solid model model heli this size. I sure like this bird, too bad they screwed the pooch with cheap labor and rushed QC! I seem to be spending more time tending to, then flying, Come on quality aftermarket upgrades!!


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Originally Posted by Liduno View Post
Not all booms and torque tubes are the same size, if you happen to have a tail boom that is a little short then pushing it all the way in could cause the A gear to wear.
They should be at $279. Would be nice to have an official size from Horizon so we could shred through all the bags at the LHS to get a flawless 130x Where are these different size parts documented on the forum, I gotta check this out?

As said by others and my thought exactly:
When it flies, it flies great, but it sure doesn't last!!
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Old 07-11-2012, 04:54 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Liduno View Post
Just make sure there is a little play in the gear mesh between the A gear and the B gear.

Not all booms and torque tubes are the same size, if you happen to have a tail boom that is a little short then pushing it all the way in could cause the A gear to wear.

Mine happens to be the perfect length so pushing it all the way in left the perfect amount of play between the two gears but yours may or may not be the perfect length.
I had a few flights before the first A gear fried, then I found out about sliding the boom in all the way. I did that and apparently mine is a bit short because I fried the next gear in less than one battery! I now have it set about 1mm out and no wear on several batteries.

If only I could get a tail slider to work now, I'm on my 4th one now.
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Old 07-11-2012, 06:14 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Just flew a battery, even had a blade scrape and no stripped gears no nothing. I do have float on the gears though with it all the way in. Thanks for the advise though.
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Last edited by Way2evl; 07-12-2012 at 09:39 AM..
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Old 07-11-2012, 08:38 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by naturecannon View Post
Where are these different size parts documented on the forum, I gotta check this out?
Just off the top of my head, I know poor red neck had one that bottomed out the gear when the boom was all the way in and from this thread it looks as if pixeltim had one that was shorter too.

It shouldn't really be a problem as long as you check the gear mesh and adjust the boom as needed, the other variable is not only TT length, but also the distance between the flat spots on the shaft.
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Old 07-12-2012, 07:20 AM   #20 (permalink)
 
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Hello James,

In your vid for replacing the A gear, you show how to take the replacement plastic one and with leaving the metal B gear in place, put the new A gear into its position and then using a tool like a hex screw driver, pry it from above in the way you show in the vid and essentially it will pop into place under the top main bearing.

Am just wondering if this is also what you guys are recommending with the metal gear as well?

Reason I asked it while my bad plastic one seem to come out very easy, the metal one did not seem to want to go in without looking like it was going to be needed to be forced an so as well since I had not seen this vid yet, I opted for splitting the frame and disassembling at lot of it all to get the gear in as I didn't want to damage anything.

Guess I'm kinda of asking this too as since its so close in size, its not that I don't think essentially it could be installed this way, but am just wondering if this is a good idea being that this gear is metal as apposed to the plastic one as it might do some damage to something?

Thanks
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