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130X Blade 130X Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 07-12-2012, 07:52 AM   #21 (permalink)
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3vw,

Where did you get the flanged bearings you used to replace the flanged bearings in the tail of the 130 X?
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Old 07-12-2012, 11:07 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by naturecannon View Post
That is pretty sad to say the least and speaks volumes regarding QC when it comes to the production of this bird. I would pay good money for a quality solid model model heli this size. I sure like this bird, too bad they screwed the pooch with cheap labor and rushed QC! I seem to be spending more time tending to, then flying, [B]Come on quality aftermarket upgrades!![
OMG, talk about quality control....not! I am wondering if a lot of folks who are having issues with the tail on the 130 is related to these bent TT shafts.

Bob
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Old 07-12-2012, 12:32 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by t_austin View Post
Make sure it is your tail boom moving and not your tail case. My tail case will move freely on my tail boom which will also move your c tail gear off the torque tube. Some type of clamp should be add to tail case so that it is secured to tail boom.
Permanent, but a drop of CA will fix that right up. Or try a piece of scotch tape on the boom before putting the tail case back on.
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Old 07-12-2012, 12:35 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Liduno View Post

It shouldn't really be a problem as long as you check the gear mesh and adjust the boom as needed, the other variable is not only TT length, but also the distance between the flat spots on the shaft.
How does that matter? That doesn't affect overall length. They only need to be long enough to fully slip into the gears. The flats being any longer just stick out the back of the gears.
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Old 07-12-2012, 01:15 PM   #25 (permalink)
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How does that matter? That doesn't affect overall length. They only need to be long enough to fully slip into the gears. The flats being any longer just stick out the back of the gears.
I was talking about the distance between the flats, not the length of the flats.

If the shoulders that the gears bottom out against are further apart then they are supposed to be, the boom would need to be extended, otherwise the gear mesh would be too tight.

It was in another thread, but I believe it was pixeltim that had 2 spare booms and 2 spare TT's and they were all different lengths.
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Old 07-12-2012, 02:00 PM   #26 (permalink)
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How does that matter? That doesn't affect overall length. They only need to be long enough to fully slip into the gears. The flats being any longer just stick out the back of the gears.
If the end of the torque tube with the longer "flat spot" is placed into the REAR drive gear, the torque tube will migrate rearward causing two problems. The first problem is that the front metal bevel gear will not be sufficiently supported, and will at worst will fall off, at best will cause stripping of the plastic crown gear. The second problem that the torque tube will contact the tail shaft (sleeve) wearing a groove in it, also increasing vibrations.
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Old 07-12-2012, 02:10 PM   #27 (permalink)
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If the end of the torque tube with the longer "flat spot" is placed into the REAR drive gear, the torque tube will migrate rearward causing two problems. The first problem is that the front metal bevel gear will not be sufficiently supported, and will at worst will fall off, at best will cause stripping of the plastic crown gear. The second problem that the torque tube will contact the tail shaft (sleeve) wearing a groove in it, also increasing vibrations.
Um, that's not what he was talking about. You're just saying to make sure it goes in right and not 180 out. That has nothing to do with the DISTANCE BETWEEN the flat spots.
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Old 07-12-2012, 03:05 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Hi James,

Many thanks for making available these repair vids, they are quite informative for anyone who has not yet taken apart their 130x. Truthfully, I wouldh've like these vids included in the box on a disc so I wouldn't have had to discover this stuff out by myself over the last week. FYI I own 2 130x's since day one of release and many spare parts already in my arsenal.

Now that I have your attention I'd like to bring up something I've discovered along the way which i consider defective. The pic is pretty explanatory as to show how 2 out of 3 tail shaft/hub assemblies I have came crooked this way... btw the 3rd part (on the right) is a good one!




Another issue I'd like to bring up... As a multiple mCPX owner, we have learned that we have to take apart and clean the linear servos periodically. This is not going to be that simple on the 130x frame design seeing the elevator servo cannot be removed without spliting the frame... unlike the simplicity of the mCPX design. May I ask why this wasn't considered in the engineering of this wonderful heli from the get go? Why couldn't it have been designed to simply slide up and out for serviceability?

I'm sure by now you know the flanged tail bearings are very poor quality as they come in the kit. The evidence is that if you replace them with better quality bearings the vibration (in the tail) you state during spool-up as "normal" will diminish greatly... this has happen for me.

I will also mention the bearing in the tail slider is also very poor quality and even if it starts out fine it seem to deteriorate in not many flights.

There are other things I could mention but this is enough for now. Please understand that I want this heli to fly and be as successful as you do and I know I speak for many others in this forum when I state this.

This really is a wonderful Heli James and I look forward to many of these initial problems being ironed out... please continue to participate like you're doing... it means alot that you do so to this community.

Many thanks from me!
Hi,

This has been noted, and passed to the factory, who has promised to review the QA proceedures and insure bettery quality on these parts. Thanks for posting the useful feedback.

David
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Old 07-12-2012, 06:36 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Hi,

This has been noted, and passed to the factory, who has promised to review the QA proceedures and insure bettery quality on these parts. Thanks for posting the useful feedback.

David
So, months (or whatever) down the road when these "improved quality" parts come out, what's HH going to do for current customers who got screwed with a nasty vibrating mess of a tail (out of the box, never crashed) over ALL rpm ranges and not just the "oh, it's normal" spool up vibe?
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Old 07-12-2012, 11:39 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Simply...good info.

Thanks for posting
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Old 07-13-2012, 12:15 AM   #31 (permalink)
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So, months (or whatever) down the road when these "improved quality" parts come out, what's HH going to do for current customers who got screwed with a nasty vibrating mess of a tail (out of the box, never crashed) over ALL rpm ranges and not just the "oh, it's normal" spool up vibe?
Call product support. They are there to help you as always. They have the tools (and the access to the right screens on the computer!)

Horizon Hobby is well known for taking care of customers.

David
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Old 07-13-2012, 01:15 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Horizon Hobby is well known for taking care of customers.

David
+1000000 I have never had better customer service any where.
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Old 07-13-2012, 03:56 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Old 07-13-2012, 06:33 AM   #34 (permalink)
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That's nice to hear. I have two MCXs, 120SR, and a 130X. So far I haven't had to use Customer Service but I only have one flight on my 130X and hopes it keeps flying the way it did on it's maiden. I am sure that when the bugs are worked out on this little bird either from HH or a third party manufacturer ( thinking metal tail), this is going to be a best seller.

Bob
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Old 07-13-2012, 08:06 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Call product support. They are there to help you as always. They have the tools (and the access to the right screens on the computer!)

Horizon Hobby is well known for taking care of customers.

David
So what's the deal now with the metal upgrade umbrella A gear? Word on the street is they are manufactured incorrectly and being recalled. Is this true?

Is customer service going to help us early adopters 6+ months down the road when these "better quality" parts start coming out? Because I don't remember any mCP X V2 parts being offered as good will gestures when HH made it "better quality" last fall when the thing had just come out in March...
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Old 07-13-2012, 11:15 PM   #36 (permalink)
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The number two video happens to us all or will... sooner or later
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Old 07-14-2012, 08:26 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Default "Snap in to a cup": replacing umbrella gear???

The second video, when re-installing the umbrella gear, he mentions "snapping the gear into a cup" which holds it in place. Does this work for anyone? There is no "cup" on mine, nothing ti snap into. The gear is loose, and the slightest movement causes it to fall to one side. This makes inserting the brass gear near impossible. The umbrella gear does not seem to be able to fit in once the umbrella gear is in place.

Anyone else finding this to be the case? Wondering of the "cup" is missing, and if without that in place to hold the umbrella gear, the gear can move a little, causing the excessive wear on this plastic gear.
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Old 07-14-2012, 10:22 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by nebeginner View Post
The second video, when re-installing the umbrella gear, he mentions "snapping the gear into a cup" which holds it in place. Does this work for anyone? There is no "cup" on mine, nothing ti snap into. The gear is loose, and the slightest movement causes it to fall to one side. This makes inserting the brass gear near impossible. The umbrella gear does not seem to be able to fit in once the umbrella gear is in place.

Anyone else finding this to be the case? Wondering of the "cup" is missing, and if without that in place to hold the umbrella gear, the gear can move a little, causing the excessive wear on this plastic gear.
Yes, it works and there is a "cup". This "cup" is the recess in the underside of the top bearing frame halves, i.e. bearing "block". You just mesh up the teeth of the A and B gears and support it on either side with your thumb/finger. Use a small screw driver or something to tilt the top of the A gear back towards the rear of the frame. It takes a little pressure, but it will snap into place and you can easily slide the main rotor shaft down through the top bearing and A gear. Pretty easy, actually...
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Old 07-14-2012, 05:40 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by sertav View Post
Yes, it works and there is a "cup". This "cup" is the recess in the underside of the top bearing frame halves, i.e. bearing "block". You just mesh up the teeth of the A and B gears and support it on either side with your thumb/finger. Use a small screw driver or something to tilt the top of the A gear back towards the rear of the frame. It takes a little pressure, but it will snap into place and you can easily slide the main rotor shaft down through the top bearing and A gear. Pretty easy, actually...
Thanks! I called HH they walked me through it. I didn't have the small brass looking gear in place, and thought I was forcing the umbrella gear if the small brass gear was in place. Now that I get it, the whole process is easy.

I put in the metal umbrella gear, and it made a noticeable improvement in handling.
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Old 07-14-2012, 05:40 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by nebeginner View Post
Thanks! I called HH they walked me through it. I didn't have the small brass looking gear in place, and thought I was forcing the umbrella gear if the small brass gear was in place. Now that I get it, the whole process is easy.

I put in the metal umbrella gear, and it made a noticeable improvement in handling.
How did you miss that in the video? You said you watched it. It was in the front tail gear repair video at 2:30. He even said to place it on top of the metal tail drive gear and it's clearly showed in place in the video when he's snapping it in.
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