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nano CP X Blade nano CP X Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 10-28-2012, 10:03 PM   #81 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Matt L View Post
Yes, sounds like the motor is going. You might call HH, as 30 flights is pretty short and some people have gotten new motors from them, both for original and replacement motors failing early.

While 30 flights is too short, 100 might be average. Expect to feed this thing a steady diet of motors.
I replaced the motor and its great now! It was dark outside so tested it in the living room and flew around, flipped it, stuck to the ceiling a few times, rainbows across the room, and I'm happy its all good now! But I'm ready to go brushless now. I soldered up my own PNP kit for the mCP so once a motor comes out that easily drops in the ncp then I'll try to convert it since these brushed motors are not cheap
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Old 10-28-2012, 11:03 PM   #82 (permalink)
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I have to go pee!!!

Last edited by f.a.r.m.e.r; 10-29-2012 at 10:48 AM..
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Old 10-31-2012, 06:42 AM   #83 (permalink)
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Default tail rotor

My tail motor gave in after 30 or so flights, no problem. But I've been struggling a bit to get a replacement one to hold well. Today it was totally hopeless - total blow out, checked the V2 tail rotor - seemed ok. Put on the KBDD mCPx tail rotor >> perfect hold! (And much more durable too, the stock one bend very easily)

Another thing: We previously tried to find out where to buy that white "glue stuff" that's on the heli. A HH rep suggested Testor's universal glue. That's not it, it's way thinner & more transparent. Anyone found out? Some kind of silicone perhaps?
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Old 10-31-2012, 12:18 PM   #84 (permalink)
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My tail motor gave in after 30 or so flights, no problem. But I've been struggling a bit to get a replacement one to hold well. Today it was totally hopeless - total blow out, checked the V2 tail rotor - seemed ok. Put on the KBDD mCPx tail rotor >> perfect hold! (And much more durable too, the stock one bend very easily)

Another thing: We previously tried to find out where to buy that white "glue stuff" that's on the heli. A HH rep suggested Testor's universal glue. That's not it, it's way thinner & more transparent. Anyone found out? Some kind of silicone perhaps?
I think its a special low temp hot glue
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Old 10-31-2012, 05:26 PM   #85 (permalink)
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I think its a special low temp hot glue
white silicone type glue works well also.
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Old 10-31-2012, 05:42 PM   #86 (permalink)
 

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I think it's liquid rubber or the liquid electrical tape. Both can be found at Home Depot.
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Old 10-31-2012, 06:17 PM   #87 (permalink)
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Quote:
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white silicone type glue works well also.
I think you know exactly what it is
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Old 11-04-2012, 11:08 PM   #88 (permalink)
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What about a good way to straighten the fs?
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Old 11-05-2012, 04:41 AM   #89 (permalink)
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What about a good way to straighten the fs?
Roll it between something flat. I roll mine between a glass table and a thick plastic ruler, with the nut over the side of the table and ruler.

Just watch those threads.
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Old 11-05-2012, 06:15 PM   #90 (permalink)
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I will try that next time , i was kinda crimping it .
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Old 11-06-2012, 03:11 AM   #91 (permalink)
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Default Rakonheli tail motor mount + custom cage

I use the RKH tail motor mount (for the mCPx) and a solid boom. The solid boom is 2mm, and is a direct fit. This is what I do:

1) Splinter the original hollow shaft, so that you can get the wire and connector out WITHOUT de/re-soldering (the connector goes through the motor mount btw)

2) Cut a solid 2mm rod to the right length with a Dremel and cutting disk, lightly round at the edges to prevent splintering, make flat fields at each end (facing down). Make the flat field a little at the time, and check for fit, especially at the frame end. It should be tight, but you should also be able to push the rod all the way in (not into the servo :-)

3) Put on the RKH tail motor mount

4) Cut the cage from the original plastic mount with a Dremel and cutting disk

5) Fasten the cage with a dab of hot glue or silicone

6) Wrap the wire around the boom, then around the rear upper canopy pin

7) Connect and put on a dab of glue, silicone or Shoe Goo

The cage protects the rear bell of the motor. Without it you can easily knock off the rear and damage it. Also VERY hard to put back on with those tiny brushes.

The RKH mount keeps the motor securely in place. I find the plastic mount tends to come loose all the time from the boom.

Here's some pics:




It's bullet proof now! And if I need to replace the motor it's very fast & easy to do!
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Old 11-06-2012, 03:14 AM   #92 (permalink)
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Default Canopy pin and landing gear repair

Now, this adds some weight - but not all that bad. Also good if you are in need of a repair while waiting for a new frame.

Simply add a dab of hot glue where broken. It sticks very well to both the frame and LG (CA glue does not!)



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Old 11-06-2012, 05:15 PM   #93 (permalink)
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Hi
What kind of hot glue is that? Never saw a blue coloured one.
I am assuming it is glue stick dispensed with glue gun?
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Old 11-07-2012, 01:54 AM   #94 (permalink)
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Hi
What kind of hot glue is that? Never saw a blue coloured one.
I am assuming it is glue stick dispensed with glue gun?
Yup, std hot glue sticks, they come in all kinds of colours
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Old 11-10-2012, 08:15 AM   #95 (permalink)
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My best advise for the nano is. Let her cool down between flights. It seems to increase the longevity of the main motor. I put my lip on the tail motor after a flight and I won't spool up again until its been cold for 4 to 5 min. Motor is still going strong at 60 plus flights.


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Old 11-10-2012, 09:01 AM   #96 (permalink)
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Nice. I used check the main motor on my honeybee with my lip in the winter. Only when no one was around though.
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Old 11-12-2012, 06:07 PM   #97 (permalink)
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Default Canopy "impact coating"



1) Put the canopy on a "pedestal"

2) Spray on two good coats of clear PlastiDip (let dry between coats)

3) Fly

Does indeed save the canopy very very well! And not much weight added. But keep in mind you get a matte look (not shiny). Holds up better than tape on the inside and it's lighter too.
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Old 11-12-2012, 06:09 PM   #98 (permalink)
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Default Flexible canopy pins

These do snap off after a while. This is an attempt to avoid this. You cut the 3 long ones in 1/2, then shrink wrap back together. The intention is to make the shrink wrap break, in stead of the pins breaking near the frame (=hard to repair). Especially if you have an Astroid modded frame you don't wanna replace the whole frame any time soon. Does seem to work well!

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Old 11-13-2012, 07:22 AM   #99 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by SHYguy View Post
These do snap off after a while. This is an attempt to avoid this. You cut the 3 long ones in 1/2, then shrink wrap back together. The intention is to make the shrink wrap break, in stead of the pins breaking near the frame (=hard to repair). Especially if you have an Astroid modded frame you don't wanna replace the whole frame any time soon. Does seem to work well!

You genius!
really smart, i'll try, but I am sure this is the way: if you cannot make them to resist, much better having the flexible!
I will try also with silicone pipe for nitro helis: let you know

many thanks!!
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Old 11-13-2012, 08:00 AM   #100 (permalink)
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Happy to be of help! We're all in the same boat!

A bit unsure as to the 4th pin, where the anti-rotation bracket sits. Do these break too (on the mCPx and Nano)? I don't recall myself...

I find it's a wee bit short to cut and shrinkwrap togheter again, might just fall off all the time. But with a (later) rear mounted anti rotation bracket one could cut away the std. one and get a "normal" long pin, and do the same trick...

I'm sure Dylan will make a "cage" for the Nano as he did with the mCPx, would work great too!
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