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130X Blade 130X Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 02-03-2013, 09:33 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helifanatic99 View Post
Actually, whoever said the DS35 is "stronger" is mistaken. It has slightly less torque than the stock servo, but it seems to work fine. As long as I had the servo (stock or DS35) adjusted on the boom to give a few degrees of "nose right" pitch (leading edges angled in towards the boom), I never got TBO even in the most extreme maneuvers.

Also, in that side pic of the DS35, did you cut off the heat shrink around the servo? I don't see it. If you did...bad juju...that's what holds the servo together since there are no case screws. It also makes that slot over the motor wide open to contamination.

Vmmattil / Blade450 - glad I could be of help... was thinking with all the problems I had if it wrote it up could help others.

helifanatic99 - Great tip on adding some extra pitch against torque and easy to do by sling the servo back. You are correct the DS35 is not stronger but it is faster and that's what I think made the heli feel more like it was on a rail like my bigger helis.

Good Eye - I did pull of the heat shrink that holds the servo together so I could get it to fit better in the bracket - what I did was instead put a clear piece of clear packing tape on the case seam to hold it together...
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Old 02-03-2013, 09:40 PM   #22 (permalink)
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There are more details and discussion about the DS35 titled: 130x New Tail Servo is a MUST HAVE at https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=493840
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:49 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by vmmattil View Post
Thansk for this great post. I was finally able to find the problem with my spinning tail: D gear round inside.

One more tip from me: a backwards installed tail shaft collar will cause vibrations. Check that the square side is outwards. Then, the bearing can do its work.

Vmmattil - I've read this post a couple times and sounds like a good tip but I'm sure what you mean - does the tail shaft collar have different ends I thought it was just a tube - are you talking about the slider or the collar below

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Old 02-04-2013, 09:12 AM   #24 (permalink)
 

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Vmmattil - I've read this post a couple times and sounds like a good tip but I'm sure what you mean - does the tail shaft collar have different ends I thought it was just a tube - are you talking about the slider or the collar below
No, he's not talking about the small metal tube, which is actually a spacer, that goes in between the D gear and the left side flange bearing. The tail collar is the small round piece with the two small Phillips screws 180 degrees apart that goes on the end of the tail rotor shaft that sticks out on the left side of the tail box and keeps the tail rotor shaft from pulling out to the right. The tapered/angled side of the tail collar goes towards the flange bearing, not the larger flat side. If you put it on backwards, you can bind up that flange bearing.
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Old 02-04-2013, 09:43 AM   #25 (permalink)
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The picture, however, is of the tail spacer with an example of the TT coming out of the C gear and rubbing the spacer.
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Old 02-04-2013, 02:18 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Default Blade 130x Tail Issue - Spinning Tail, Tail Blowout, Issue / Resolution

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Originally Posted by helifanatic99 View Post
No, he's not talking about the small metal tube, which is actually a spacer, that goes in between the D gear and the left side flange bearing. The tail collar is the small round piece with the two small Phillips screws 180 degrees apart that goes on the end of the tail rotor shaft that sticks out on the left side of the tail box and keeps the tail rotor shaft from pulling out to the right. The tapered/angled side of the tail collar goes towards the flange bearing, not the larger flat side. If you put it on backwards, you can bind up that flange bearing.
Could you post a pic of the correct mounting? I think every 130 X I've seen has the flat spot pointed to the bearing, with the skewed side on the outside. If this is wrong I might need to do some wrenching lol.


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Old 02-04-2013, 02:33 PM   #27 (permalink)
 

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Could you post a pic of the correct mounting? I think every 130 X I've seen has the flat spot pointed to the bearing, with the skewed side on the outside. If this is wrong I might need to do some wrenching lol.


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I don't have a picture, myself, but flip that tail collar around. That's the correct orientation. Tapered side in towards the bearing makes the most sense because it only contacts the inner race. The flat side in will rub on both the inner and outer races of the left flange bearing, and you don't want that. If it didn't make a difference, both sides would be flat (easier machining).
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:56 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by helifanatic99 View Post
No, he's not talking about the small metal tube, which is actually a spacer, that goes in between the D gear and the left side flange bearing. The tail collar is the small round piece with the two small Phillips screws 180 degrees apart that goes on the end of the tail rotor shaft that sticks out on the left side of the tail box and keeps the tail rotor shaft from pulling out to the right. The tapered/angled side of the tail collar goes towards the flange bearing, not the larger flat side. If you put it on backwards, you can bind up that flange bearing.
Thanks HeliFantanic99 - Now I see what he was talking about... For those asking for a photo, here's what it looks like with flange toward bearing.

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Old 02-04-2013, 08:08 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blade450 View Post
I think every 130 X I've seen has the flat spot pointed to the bearing, with the skewed side on the outside.
For those like me who run extra bearing behind collar-side flange bearing, there's less part of the tail shaft sticking out so they install collar backwards after machining it or adding a spacer to prevent collar rubbing bearing outer race. That's probably why you see people install collar backwards. That is exactly why I'm more reluctant these days to post pics for my mods because apparently most people (not targeting at you) don't bother reading the text and just follow my mod after reading just my pics.
https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.p...8&postcount=42
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Old 02-04-2013, 10:32 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Getting enough pitch against torque is another setup tip that will help prevent tail blowout, with stock or the DS35 servo. Unlike other helis where you adjust the ball linkage (you can do that on the 130x as well) you can quickly change the pitch by just sliding the servo back toward the tail to get more pitch against torque (in other words the pitch that would have the heli turn right / pushing the tail left)

Like your bigger helis a little tail pitch make neutral spool up and gives you a bit more bite when you really pushing the tail



What I recommend is marking your starting point with a piece of tape as a reference, then when you move the servo you can see where it was in relationship to where you started. Temember sliding the servo aft towards the tail will give you more pitch against torque.
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Old 02-08-2013, 03:18 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Tailbender View Post
Getting enough pitch against torque is another setup tip that will help prevent tail blowout, with stock or the DS35 servo. Unlike other helis where you adjust the ball linkage (you can do that on the 130x as well) you can quickly change the pitch by just sliding the servo back toward the tail to get more pitch against torque (in other words the pitch that would have the heli turn right / pushing the tail left)

Like your bigger helis a little tail pitch make neutral spool up and gives you a bit more bite when you really pushing the tail



What I recommend is marking your starting point with a piece of tape as a reference, then when you move the servo you can see where it was in relationship to where you started. Temember sliding the servo aft towards the tail will give you more pitch against torque.
Awesome advice! My tail was blowing out on a new freshly charged nanotech lipo... I read this and used your method to adjust pitch at mid point.

Only thing different I did was instead of moving the whole servo and mount, I just adjusted the ball link and the end of the linkage four twists out. Before that, my tail blades were at the closest to zero mid pitch at mid point. Basically, youre unscrewing the ball link two full revolutions past zero pitch (check out my attachments below).



Now I can go 40+ ft in the air, slam negative collective then slam it to full positive right before it touches the asphalt. It'll catch, pop and the tail is SOLID. I tried bery very hard to blowout the tail.... just not possible anymore.


Had to lower the gain on the board one single degree to get rid of an ever so small wag (anally unnoticeable amount) during fast backwards flight (both 90'd and 45'd).

Heli flys like my 700E
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Old 02-08-2013, 03:47 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by HeliPorn View Post
Awesome advice! ... Now I can go 40+ ft in the air, slam negative collective then slam it to full positive right before it touches the asphalt. It'll catch, pop and the tail is SOLID. I tried bery very hard to blowout the tail.... just not possible anymore.

Had to lower the gain on the board one single degree to get rid of an ever so small wag (anally unnoticeable amount) during fast backwards flight (both 90'd and 45'd).

Heli flys like my 700E
Well done!!! It was the key for me as well and like you it was hard 3D that caused the problem. Adding more pitch against torque was the key. You're right you can adjust the ball link as we bigger helis but I found sliding the servo back and forth was faster since you could see the instant effect without having to position the link... All good what every way works best to get the extra pitch!
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Old 03-10-2013, 07:03 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Started with vibration but I think on closer look I found the problem causing the tail to spin...



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Gyros: MiniG, Servos: HiTec HS065MG, Tails: Futaba S9257 & JR3500G
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Old 03-11-2013, 04:59 AM   #34 (permalink)
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OUCH!!!!!
That hurts just to LOOK at it!!
I'm guessing...a tail plant...
Or did you "find" something like the hard side of a rock....???!!
Just lost the last plastic pitch slider I'm putting on mine...the MH metal parts are on their way....Until repairs to the 130X are accomplished....I'll be busying myself with a new mCPx BL.....!
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:31 AM   #35 (permalink)
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OUCH!!!!!
That hurts just to LOOK at it!!
I'm guessing...a tail plant...
dasBlade450 - you got it... thought I'd try my hand at PiroFlips and started a bit too far away and when I finally realized I was in trouble lost orientation and fat fingered right into a tail plant... on the bright side that was all that got damaged...

Agree the mCPx BL is a great little heli w a faster pop then the 130x and better crash recovery
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:14 AM   #36 (permalink)
 

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dasBlade450 - you got it... thought I'd try my hand at PiroFlips and started a bit too far away and when I finally realized I was in trouble lost orientation and fat fingered right into a tail plant... on the bright side that was all that got damaged...

Agree the mCPx BL is a great little heli w a faster pop then the 130x and better crash recovery
How did you like that Lynx CF TT?
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:18 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by helifanatic99 View Post
How did you like that Lynx CF TT?
I've been through two, and so far I don't like them as much. Main reason I got them to begin with was the coffee grinding with the metal. The first one tore up the D slit at the B gear in a crash and the second one ended up warping - I'm sure as a result from crashing.

I resolved the coffee grinding by loosening the boom support mount and pushing it up and down the boom until the mesh felt the smoothest (you need the main gear off to test) and then tightening. Since doing this, my metal TT works great and doesn't grind. I do have to pay attention to it sticking out of the C gear after a crash. The CF TT fit perfectly on the C gear and never stuck out. In hindsight, the grinding is good with the metal TT as it lets me know when my boom supports are knocked out of position in a crash, whereas the CF TT I wouldn't hear anything, and would keep flying, probably warping it and wearing my bearings.
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:49 AM   #38 (permalink)
 

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I've been through two, and so far I don't like them as much. Main reason I got them to begin with was the coffee grinding with the metal. The first one tore up the D slit at the B gear in a crash and the second one ended up warping - I'm sure as a result from crashing.

I resolved the coffee grinding by loosening the boom support mount and pushing it up and down the boom until the mesh felt the smoothest (you need the main gear off to test) and then tightening. Since doing this, my metal TT works great and doesn't grind. I do have to pay attention to it sticking out of the C gear after a crash. The CF TT fit perfectly on the C gear and never stuck out. In hindsight, the grinding is good with the metal TT as it lets me know when my boom supports are knocked out of position in a crash, whereas the CF TT I wouldn't hear anything, and would keep flying, probably warping it and wearing my bearings.
"Coffee grinder" noise is exactly why I bought a two pack of Lynx CF TTs. I've yet to install them since figuring out why I had the noise all of the sudden. I had installed a DS35 tail servo and cranked down a bit too hard on the Microheli mount screws and squished the boom a bit. I'd squished it hard enough that the sound wouldn't go away even with the mount barely held on. Replacing the boom fixed it, so I haven't really had a need for the Lynx CF TTs. Good thing they were cheap.
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Old 08-15-2013, 01:28 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Hi all,
I recently purchased one of these but I'm having a few issues. There seems to be a wealth of information on this little heli and many different ideas.
My problem is this, throttle up heli, ideal up 75 or 100% it does not matter. Hard increase the pitch and the tail blows put counter clockwise, hold the pitch and it keeps spinning like not enough tail authority. Let go to hover and she spins back round clockwise as many times as required to find original HH position. She then fly's great as long as movement are gentle.
Now the weird bit, sometimes it seems like I unplug the battery and power on again and she's fine.
Anyone heard of such a thing?
Thanks
Kev
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Old 08-15-2013, 11:08 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bionicbone View Post
Hi all,
I recently purchased one of these but I'm having a few issues. There seems to be a wealth of information on this little heli and many different ideas.
My problem is this, throttle up heli, ideal up 75 or 100% it does not matter. Hard increase the pitch and the tail blows put counter clockwise, hold the pitch and it keeps spinning like not enough tail authority. Let go to hover and she spins back round clockwise as many times as required to find original HH position. She then fly's great as long as movement are gentle.
Now the weird bit, sometimes it seems like I unplug the battery and power on again and she's fine.
Anyone heard of such a thing?
Thanks
Kev
Could be that the shaft D-hole in either the C-gear or D-gear is rounded out. Hold the tail rotor still. Gently try to rotate the main gear. If resistance is felt, the gears are likely OK. If the C and D gear spin with the main gear and the tail rotor stays still, the D-gear is shot. If the C and D don't spin when the main gear is rotated and the tail rotor is held still, the C-gear is shot.
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