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Old 11-28-2012, 12:27 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Compass-USA Sponsored Warp 360 Build Thread w/ link to Manual

Hi guys,

Shortly after IRCHA 2012, Dave Ketelhut approached me with the idea of doing a build thread for the Compass Warp 360. After getting permission from ALeeS RC's Charley Stephens to do so, I'm proud to be doing this. Thank you so much, Charley and ALeeS! It is quite an honor to be approached by someone of Dave's stature in the hobby to do a build thread. It's also a great honor that the build is sponsored by Compass-USA! Special thanks go out to Mike of Nankin Hobby! Mike is tireless. His pursuit of perfect customer service is endless--and he exceeds expectations every time! Thanks, Mike

I'll likely be starting the build in full this weekend, so look for a lot of pictures along with explanations of each step taken during the build. I hope this thread helps you get the best out of your new helicopter! If you have suggestions or if I make a mistake, please let me know. Also, this thread is not designed to take the place of any video builds that are being done.

I'm super excited about doing this!. So, Saturday, we'll get rolling... my kit should be at my door when I get home today!!

Stay tuned!

Scott

Instruction Manual for Warp 360
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Old 11-28-2012, 08:38 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Default The contents!

Here are some pictures showing the contents of the box. The kit is very well packaged. I particularly like the way the boom and the blades are stored!



Very cool looking box! It's just a little wider than your standard 450 sized box, but it looks much better!



The top panel of the box holds the boom and the blades. I really like this as it's a space saver!



You first notice your canopy when you open the box. It's wrapped in bubble foam. To the right of the canopy is the parts box. I couldn't resist, so I opened it.



Inside the parts box. You can see the motor(s). Looks like Mike sent me the full kit. I ordered the bare bones kit. I had him throw in a motor for the build. Now, I have two motors! I'll call Mike in the AM to straighten this out. Inside the parts box is most of the hardware and the manual on a USB Flash drive. Electronic manuals are cool. They seem to be the hot thing! Load the manual on your laptop or desktop, then transfer it to your pad device.



The floor of the box. Frame sides, tail push rod, blade holder, canopy mounts and more are found here. I like the new blade holder!



I just had to unwrap the canopy! Mine came in perfect shape. For those out there who worry about canopy fit, the canopy comes pre-reamed (drilled) for the mounts. I chose this color scheme because I like contrasts in the sky. Also, I think it's sharp as all get out!



A side view of the canopy. I think this canopy is going to be really visible against trees!



The pretty underbelly! The front canopy mounts are pre-drilled, too. This will save some headaches when positioning the front mount.

That's about it for tonight. I'm super-psyched to get started!

Scott
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Old 12-01-2012, 01:43 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Default It's on! The build begins!

Here we go, folks!



When I start a build, I lay out the items I'm going to need to get started. First, the manual on my iPad, three small bowls, and of course, 99 percent isopropyl alcohol and my favorite dirty-ass towel!



The alcohol is very important. When threads are cut in screws, NON-nyloc nuts, and bolts, oil is used. Oil and thread locker do not mix well.



I thought having "Compass" etched on the protector of the USB stick was a cool, nice touch!



Bag 1 contains the grip parts.



Here are the grip parts. Count the screws. There should be sixteen screws.



I always measure the screws so I know I install the fasteners required for each build step.



I soak the screws in alcohol for a few minutes, then using the appropriate hex-driver, turn them dry in a paper towel. I'll show you the paper towel I'm using after the build. Please don't forget this important step.



The metal part of the grip comes with the thrust bearings installed between two radial bearings. We need to get the thrust bearings out to make sure they're greased properly. In order to remove the thrust bearing parts you need to remove an outer radial bearing, first. To make sure I didn't damage the bearing sets, I temporarily installed the grip plates to the metal grip piece.



Next, I put the grip upright. Using a small flat head screw driver, I found a small space between the outer radial and thrust bearings. I then lightly tapped on the screw driver until I felt the radial bearing slide out.



The bearing is out! At this point, I removed the grip plates from the metal part of the grips. Then using the same small screw driver I used earlier, I pushed the radial bearing completely out.



Here's the bearings. Note the inner race of the thrust bearing set didn't come out. That's okay as long as the smaller inner diameter race portion of the thrust bearing is installed on the outside. You can test this by getting the head hub and seeing if the race that comes out will wobble. If it wobbles just a little on the shaft of the hub you're good to go. If it wobbles a lot, you need to get the other race out of the grip so the smaller inner diameter race is on the outside of the grip, facing the root of the blades.



Both my thrust bearings were not greased well.



So, I just regreased the bearings, No biggie. It's normal for kits.



This shows the reassembly order. I prefer to put the open side of the thrust bearing toward the inner bearing race. Doing it this way can help grease stay in the bearing longer. So, the order for reinstalling the parts is:

Thrust bearing, outer race (small ID), and then the thrust washer.



As best you can, try to line up the hole in the thrust washer with the holes of the other bearings. It will likely slip, so the first time you install the main grip hub, do it slowly and wiggle it as you push it in. We'll cover this again, shortly.



Next, I pressed in the radial bearing. It wasn't difficult. I chose not to use green bearing retainer at this time. The bearings seem tight enough. I made that choice because I will likely have to remove the thrust bearings many times throughout the life of my helicopter for maintenance or replacement. Using green bearing retainer coupled with the smallness of the grip may make it very difficult to remove the outer radial bearing without heat. Using heat will be difficult because of each of the radial bearings fit flush in the metal portion of the grip. Over time, we'll see how it goes.



You install the 2mm carbon fiber grip plates with the provided button head screws in a crossing pattern. I just made them snug, then tightened them down in a crossing patttern--not too tight, though-- let the blue thread locker do its job.



The finished grips. Since this is a rigid head design, the only damping is provided by the blades and the carbon fiber plates themselves. This is not an issue as there is video proof that super low head speeds can be achieved with no wobble or loss of control. Sebastian did his homework well!



Bag two has the parts to finish the swash plate assembly.



The swash plate, balls and fastening screws. At this point, I did a little test. I pulled out the main shaft from its bag, inserted it into the swash ball. Very smooth action. Part two of the test, find a swash plate leveler. Well, I don't have one. Since the main shaft is 6mm, a T-Rex 450pro leveler won't work. It's cool. There are other ways to level a swash plate.



Note the inner ball positioning. Balls are attached using blue thread locker.



The finished swash plate. Note the orientation of the inner balls. They should bisect the center of the swash.

That's it for these steps. Next up... swash driver links and we'll finish the head assembly.

Scott
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Old 12-01-2012, 04:47 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Default Finishing up the head

In this next post, we'll be finishing up the head.



Bag 3 has the parts necessary to build the swash driver arms. Note the two links in the second bag. I used these here since page 56 of the manual shows no links and there are only two links to be used in this step.



Here are the parts in bag 3 arranged in their installation positions. Note the thicker of the two brass spacers goes on the inside of the swash driver, per the manual.



I think this is where some folks are having problems with broken links. Rob43, a rep for Compass has been sending me his finding on this issue for the last couple of days. Rob found that drilling out the link with a 7/64th drill bit would lower the chance of splitting a grip. He also said thoroughly cleaning the bolt with alcohol in lieu of drilling reduced the chance of splitting links. I cleaned the bolts and skipped drilling. I was very deliberate using a high quality 1.5mm hex-driver to install the bolt into the link. It worked fine.



Next step is to install the nut on the bolt for the swash driver. I installed it as shown and it was almost dead on 39mm in length!



39mm total assembly length. Please note there is some parallax in this picture, so it looks longer than it actually is.



Next you use a 5.5mm open ended wrench to tighten the nut against the top of the swash driver assembly. Note too that I also used blue thread locker on the nut and the bolt as this area gets a lot of stress in flight and I don't want it coming apart.



This is how I tightened the nut. I held the top in one hand and used the wrench to tighten the nut against the top of the swash driver assembly.



Completed swash drivers. Note the different color of the nuts. One nut I had did not fit on the bolt, so I had to use one from my spares. I'll make sure Mike knows as this nut is slightly thicker and may cause an imbalance at speed.



Bag 4. Bag 4 has the parts necessary to complete the head assembly.



Parts in bag 4. Not shown are the spacers for the blades. I'll show those later.



If you only clean one part during your build, be absolutely certain its the head hub. I soaked mine in alcohol for about 20 minutes, then rolled, soaked and threaded a paper towel into the threads. This is SAFETY requirement! Thread locker will not hold well at all when threads are coated with oil.



While there wasn't much oil in my hub, that doesn't mean yours won't have an abundance of oil. Be on the safe side, please!



I applied blue thread locker with a toothpick to the inside of the hub. To make sure it got to the bottom, I blew into the threaded hole. I wiped off any excess thread locker.



I found the best way to install the bolt holding the grip to the hub is to first insert the washer--the grips are too narrow for the washer to simply slide in with the bolt--then insert the bolt through the washer and tighten it down.



Completed grips on the hub. As the two blue thread locker blobs indicate, things can get sloppy if you're me!



As a side note, this is the amount of oil I got of the bolt that are used to attach the grips to the hub. Clean those well, too!



Attaching the swash drivers to the grips was pretty straight forward on my build. To avoid cross threading, I laid the parts flat on the towel, applied a small amount of thread locker to to the threaded holes on the pitch arms, then finger tightened the bolts until they were snug. Then I lightly tightened them the rest of the way with a hex driver.



The completed head/swash driver assembly.



For the purpose of this build thread, I'm showing the main shaft attached to the head hub. Note that the main shaft has holes at different distances from each end. The head side uses the hole that is furthest from the end.

At this point I did a test fit of the head to the swash, but because I will have to remove the head from the main shaft and swash to perform setup, I will leave the permanent installation until I complete leveling the swash during electronics setup.

That's it for this post. I hope you're finding it useful. I'm under the weather today, so please forgive me--I'm stopping for the night. I want to hit the ground running in the morning so if I press on tonight, I'm going to mess up two days instead of one. Again, my apologies.

Scott
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Old 12-02-2012, 01:49 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Default Basic tail and boom assembly

Still not feeling that well, but a promise is a promise... Here we go with the basic tail and boom assembly!



Bag 7,8,9... well, the numbers skip around a little, but they relate to the steps in the manual--there are cases where parts in a prior assembly are used in the current assembly--so the number skips. Don't worry! You're likely not missing a bag of parts! You gotta love that the packaging factories weigh each bag!



Contents of bag 7,8,9. Note that you have eight screws, four smaller and four larger. Also, note the spring pin slightly under the belt bag.



Parts for assembling the tail output shaft. Note that the spring pin is missing from this step. It's missing because I was trying to figure out how to get the pin in without a small vice.



The first step in the process is to line up the hole in the main shaft with the hole in the pulley. The cleaner you do this step, the easier the spring pin can be inserted. I ended up using a "C" clamp to press in the spring pin. My suggestions? Two, really. Buy a small bench vice. Second, Compass might want to consider assembling this part.



After I got the spring pin in the pulley and output shaft, I installed the other half of the pulley. I waited to do it at this point because the output shaft can be used as a guild. I slid the box end side of a wrench over the output shaft then lightly tapped on the wrench so the pulley halves would merge.



Here's the proof: The assembled tail output shaft.



Here are the parts to assemble one side of the tail block. When you're doing this, pay close attention to the orientation of the bearing in the carbon fiber end plate--the flange must face the pulley on the tail output shaft.



Install the screws carefully. Make sure you get even tension on them! I tightened them until they were snug then went 1/4 turn past snug.



Slide the tail output shaft into the flange bearing on the end plate.



Next, install the other plate.



Even tightening here, too. The reason is this: Carbon fiber, even a small piece like this may flex when the screws are not evenly tightened. Flexing may cause the bearings to wear prematurely or even cause vibrations that are a pain in the butt to track down!



To install the belt, I first stretched it out, then applied tape to one end as shown above.



Next, I simply just pushed the belt through the boom! Simple. If you don't tape or somehow squeeze the belt like this, you may spend a frustrating time getting the belt through the boom.



Remove the tape from the belt then just slide the tail case assembly inside the belt. Really a good design here. It's simple. I can see belt replacements not taking too long at the field!



Next we attach the tail case assembly to the boom. First, you thread the screws through the fin and the plastic support.



Screws are through. Be a little more careful with the blue thread locker than I was. In the manual it says to put thread locker on the curved portion of the machined tail case. I don't know why, but I did it anyway.



Tighten the screws evenly here, too. The screws go through the boom and into the tail case assembly.



As we did with the tail, thread the screws through the plastic tail control arm support. Don't forget thread locker!



Tighten the screws evenly here, as well. The manual doesn't state orientation of this piece, but if you look very closely at the drawing, it shows the curved part facing to the top.



Here is the partial boom/tail assembly, completed. Next up, we'll do more with the tail.

Scott
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Old 12-02-2012, 04:05 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Default Tail assembly part 1

In this post we'll do the first part of the tail assembly. I'm breaking this up into two parts because the tail pitch slider assembly has two links and pins that need to be properly fit so it's going to take more time to make sure they're properly installed.

So, here we go with part 1!



Bag 10.



Bag 10 contains the tail pitch control lever parts.



The first thing I did was resize the link. Note in the picture, the link is not yet on the ball link sizing too. I used a standard JR ball link sizer.



Now, this picture may be a bit misleading, but it does show the installation order of the ball. The easiest thing to do is to temporarily install the ball on the lever-do not use the top washer-- then press the link on to the ball. Next, remove the screw, slide washer onto the screw. Then slide on the ball, apply thread locker to the threaded hole on the lever then install the ball/link assembly.



When you're done, it looks like this. Keep the small washer and bolt for later.



Bag 11. Ha! No weight!!!



Bag 11 contains the tail grips and two balls with screws.



Since this is a high stress part of the helicopter, I first threaded the hole in the link, then removed the screw.



I then filled the threaded hole with CA that I first applied to a toothpick.



Finally, I reinstalled the ball. Don't over tighten! Remember, the link is plastic!



Balls are installed.. sounds bad doesn't it?



Bag 12/13 Contains a lot of parts for the tail assembly.



I did a double take on the blades. They have a design on them... both blades have the same design. I wonder what it means or if it is a logo of some kind?



Here is the assembly order of the grips and tail hub. This is pretty critical to get right. When you're done, the grips should turn freely on the hub.



The first thing to do is to install the bearings into the grips. Each grip has two radial bearings. I pressed them in with the shoulder of a Thorpe hex driver.



The bearings slid in with only a small amount of force.



Same deal with the outer radial bearing.



Just apply constant, steady pressure and the bearing will slide right in. Stop pressing when you feel the bearing has found the lip inside the grip.



Outer radial bearing installed.



I applied blue thread locker to a tooth pick then used the toothpick to apply the thread locker to the threads inside the shaft portion of the tail hub.



Slide the grip over the hub and tighten the screw until you feel some resistance. Do this with both tail grips.



For final tightening, insert a hex driver or screw driver through the center hole in the hub, then tighten each grip screw evenly. After that, check to make sure there is no binding on the grips by turning them. If you find binding or a notchy feel you may not have pressed the grip bearings in fully.



The completed tail hub.



The manual wants builders to install the tail blades at this point. This picture shows what goes where. I'm skipping this step because I think having the blades on and flopping around will be a distraction when fitting the links. I'll install the blades later.

That's it for these steps. Next up is the tail pitch slider!

Scott
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Old 12-03-2012, 05:34 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Default Tail assembly part 2

Part two of the tail assembly. I am very deliberate when I build a tail assembly. Every part of the pitch slider, grips, links, and pitch lever must operate as a single unit so there is absolutely no binding of any moving part!



The parts for the tail pitch slider are found in bag 14.



I laid out the parts for the tail pitch slider in such a way to show how they go together.



The first thing to do it check the fit of the links on the balls. I do this now so I know in advance of tight points in the tail mechanism.



If necessary, re-size the link. In my case, it went like this: test fit, resize, test fit, resize, test fit, resize, and finally I had the fit I wanted. This is completely normal. The last thing you want is a link that is too loose or a link that is too tight. Right on the money is a link that will move smoothly around the ball with no tight spots and no slop.



Next, test the fit of the links on the tail pitch slider arms. The links should slide smoothly over the assembly.



If they don't slide smoothly, use a small file and lightly file each side of the attaching point. Don't take off too much. It's best to file, test, repeat, just like resizing links. The proper fit is an attachment point that slides freely over the arm but does not move from side to side when you twist the link on the arm.



After filing the links, its time to install them on the pitch slider. There are two pins and varying methods to install them. I used a pair of smooth faced ball link pliers to firmly hold the pin. (Note: Don't use needle nose pliers--the jaws may scar the metal.) I positioned the pin over the hole in the link, then lightly tapped on the pliers. The goal here is to just start the pin.



The pin was started. Luckily, it went into the hole in the pitch slider arm!



There are many ways to finish installing the pin. I chose a small "C" clamp as shown and tightened down on the pin/link until it was fully inserted.



Fully installed links on the pitch slider arms. Note the orientation of the links! This is important for leading edge control!



Because we're after a very smooth tail assembly, I test fit the brash bushing of the tail pitch slider over the tail output shaft. The bushing should rotate and slide freely on the tail output shaft with no side-to-side play.



Next, I did a test assembly of the tail pitch slider to test fit on the tail output shaft. Again, it should slide and rotate freely throughout the entire length of the tail output shaft.



Next, I soaked the brash bushing in alcohol. Not shown, I cleaned the threads of the pitch slider arm, as well.



I like to clean the inside of the bushing... I dip the corner of a paper towel in alcohol then just twist it in. I do this from both sides of the bushing.



Apply thread locker to the side of the pitch slider arms so it cannot wick up into the bearing.



Use a 7mm wrench to tighten the brass bushing in the pitch slider assembly.



Attach the ball, to the pitch slider. Note that the picture shows the screw in crooked. It's the only way I could take a picture and show the screw being attached--I ran out of hands! As with other metal plastic screws, thread the plastic first, then apply CA to the threads. Finally, screw in the ball. Don't over tighten! This part must rotate freely around the bushing!



The completed pitch slider assembly for leading edge control!



Next, slide the completed pitch slider on the tail output shaft. Test for binding. If there is no binding, you're good to go!



Slide the tail hub/grip assembly over the tail output shaft. Line up the hole for the set-screw with the dimple in the tail output shaft--the set screw will actually fit inside the dimple.



Use blue thread locker on the set-screw and do not over tighten. It should be tight, but there is no need to crank down on the set screw--you may bend something!



Attach the links on the pitch slider to the balls on the grips. Note the orientation.



Next, install the pitch lever. Be careful to get thread the screw straight. Thread it separately, then install the complete assembly. Make sure the small spacer is installed between the mount and the pitch lever as shown above. Test the assembly for smooth action. It should be very smooth with no binding throughout. If you've had a free assembly up to this point, but do not have smooth motion throughout the pitch range, you may have to do as I did: I re-sized the cup for the ball. My tail assembly is now butter smooth. At the outside extreme, you will notice a small rotation of the pitch slider ball, this is normal.



The completed tail assembly (minus blades) with leading edge control!

Next up, we're going to start in on the frame parts!

Scott
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Old 12-04-2012, 06:35 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Default Starting the frame

Hey guys, guess what? I got my wife sick. So...I need to take care of her. I wish I could post more tonight, but I'm needed--and it's a good feeling to know that.

With that in mind, I have only a few steps today.



Bag 17 has the electronics tray and support.



Please note: Installation of the tray is directional: One side of the tray has countersunk drilled holes. The screws are countersunk as well. This was likely done to keep a flat surface. Do not over tighten the screws--remember, the hole is countersunk! Also, before you install this in your helicopter, be sure to lightly sand the edges using wet wet/dry sandpaper. If you don't want use wet, make sure you use a mask!



The top side of the electronics tray.



The underside of the electronics tray.



Bag 18 19 Contains bearings and the antirotation/main bearing mount.



Well need these later.



I chose MKS DS92A+ servos. I've been told they're essentially a plastic cased DS95, so I'm happy with my choice. Also shown bag 20.



Bag 20 contains the servo mount and associated hardware. If your servos have four mounting holes you'll want to use the plastic servo nuts. Note that they come in two sizes: 7 and 6mm wide. The bag also contains servo spacers. If you're using single hole servos you'll use the screws in bag 20, but....



You'll need the nylock nuts found in an unmarked bag.



There are plenty of nuts for this step. I only needed four.



I used a servo spacer on the outside of the servo. If I need it on the inside, I'll move it later.



I used a 4mm wrench to hold the nylock nut while I tightened the 1.5mm screw.



This is the completed aileron and pitch servo installation. I always try to get the servos rotating in the same plane. For this installation, I kept the screws barely tight and then pushed down on the servo in the mount while tightening the upper screw. It looks like they'll rotate in the same plane here.

My apologies again, folks. We'll get this kit done! I promise!

Scott
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Old 12-05-2012, 07:26 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Default More stuff... Pulleys!

This time around, we build pulleys... and... wait... wait... wait... the tail control rod!!!



Belt tensioner pulleys come in bag 23.



This is the assembly order of the belt tensioner pulleys. Note there is one large pulley and two smaller pulleys. Thanks for the correction, guys! Also note the orientation of the bearing. The flange goes toward the large pulley.



First we install the larger pulley. Don't forget the two spacers that face toward the pulley mount.



The large screw goes straight through the mount. Don't overtighten this. The pulley should rotate smoothly around the screw with no side-to-side slop. Note the position of the bearing's flange. Thanks again for the correction, guys!



One of the smaller pulleys goes on the long screw. There is one small spacer inside and outside of the pulley. The spacers run on the inner race of the bearing inside the pulley. A nylock nut holds everything together.



Use a 5.5mm wrench or nut driver to tighten the nylock nut. Again, don't overtighten--the pulley needs to run freely.



We use the provided bolt to attach the final pulley. Again, spacer inside and outside by the head of the bolt.



Apply blue thread locker to the side opposing the pulley. Do this so the thread locker won't wick into the washer and then into the bearing. If that happens, the bearing is likely ruined.



Finally, don't over tighten the bolt. Look for the same results as before--the bearing rotates smoothly with no up/down, side-to-side play.



The completed belt tensioner/belt guide assembly. Note the position of the bearing's flange. We'll put this to the side for now.

Thanks for the corrections, guys! I removed the tail control rod until I can get another one in.

Next up... Main and tail drive pulleys.

Scott
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Old 12-05-2012, 07:57 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Default Main and tail drive pulleys

Next up we build the tail and main drive pulleys.



Bag 25 holds the drive hub and autorotation sleve... Jesus bolt, too.



This shows the assembly order.



Slide in the autorotation sleeve as shown, then we'll just set it aside for later.



Bag 26 27.



This bag has the parts to build the main and tail drive pulleys. The white rings are belt guides and fit on each side of the large gear. Together, they make a pulley. My rings had some flashing on them. Make sure you remove all flashing before you assemble these parts.



Ha! The screws and nuts need to be soaked in alcohol, then wiped dry. Note there are 12 screws and 9 nuts. The extra three screws will be used to attach the drive hub to the completed pulley assembly.



Look at that oil! And they're small screws, too! Clean your screws, folks!



The guides fit into the large gear. To keep the guides lined up I inserted two screws and just pressed each half of the guide together.



The other side of the guide has a nut for each screw. The nuts will slide into the pre-cut holes. Before you slide the nuts into the holes, use a dab of blue thread locker on each nut.



I always make an index mark when I have to tighten a lot of screws. The mark will tell me where I will end. I know, I know... you can remember this...I can, too... except when I get a phone call, sneeze, my dog comes up to me, I drop something, or a Dream Theater song hits me on Pandora! Anyhow, only snug down the screws at this point, but do so in a crossing pattern.



Once they're snug, give them about 1/4 turn more--still use the crossing pattern. Then recheck.



Guides are installed.



The main drive/autorotation hub fits flush inside a ring molded into the main gear. Make sure you line up the threaded holes in the hub with holes in the gear.



Next, we slide on the cup pulley as shown, line up the holes, too.



Use blue thread locker on the screws, then start them. Only snug them down. Then tighten in a circle pattern. Recheck for tightness, then you're done.



The top side of the pulley assembly.



The underside of the pulley assembly. I had to look at this a couple of times to make sure it was right. According to the manual, it is.. Ha! I just looked again.

Next up, we'll do the motor mount and further steps. This may seem tedious, but we're building up installing all these smaller assemblies into the frame!

Y'all have good nights!

Scott
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Old 12-07-2012, 08:09 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Default Motor mount

Only one step tonight, but tomorrow, we'll tackle the frames! The motor mount is here...



We had people over earlier today, so I put this sign on my work area! It worked.



The motor and bag 28.



Bag 28 comes with connectors, the motor mount, a pulley, a centering tool, and the hardware to mount it all. Since connectors were provided, I took some time to solder connectors on both my motor and ESC.

One hint about soldering the connectors: The braided insulation can come off the motor leads. If this happens to you, make sure you push the lead completely inside the motor can until it stops. When you're heating your shrink tubing, push the braided insulation back towards the motor. This way, the shrink tubing performs double duty--it insulates and it keeps the installation in the right place inside the motor!



The motor has two pairs of holes for mounting. Please note the distance from the motor shaft. Because of clearance issues Rob43 and Gawl suggested using the holes closest to the motor shaft. That's what we'll do.



When you mount the motor, the manual says to run the leads to the rear on either the right or left side of the motor. I have mine on the left side (note the picture is from the bottom).

The centering tool is a conical machined piece of aluminum. The cone side fits inside the motor mount hole. To use it, press down on the tool while you evenly tighten the screws. When you're done, you should have a centered motor. Centering the motor is critical. If you didn't apply thread locker before you centered the motor, you can do it now. Just remove one screw, apply thread locker, then reinstall and tighten; then do the same with the other screw.



At the suggestion of Rob and Gawl, I used inner holes of the motor. If you want the leads to be on the left side, simply flip the motor mount.



Next we install the pulley. The pulley needs to be approximately 1/2 mm from the motor mount in order to clear the belt tensioners. Install the pulley so the set screw fits on the pre-machined flat spot.



The completed motor mount. Note the connectors.

Tomorrow, we're going to build the frames, so stay tuned.

Scott (mistake free?)
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Old 12-08-2012, 04:38 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Default Frame Part 1

Here we go! Frame part 1.



Before I started the frame, I thought it would be a good time to set centers on my cyclic servos and rudder servo. I programmed a model into my DX8, bound the AR7200BX to the model, then powered up. Everything was good. Then I programmed servo frequencies into the AR7200BX. Finally, I attached the servos to the FBL unit and arranged them in the order they will be in the frame. I then powered up and went straight to setup step G for servo centering.



In order to get proper centers, attach the arms. Above shows the finished result. With different servos, I've been able to get center simply by swapping around link arms. With these MKS-92+ servos, I had to use Step G's subtrim option. No biggie, but I will check centers frequently. I should add that I did this because some folks in other threads wrote that it was difficult to get to the servo arms when the frame halves were joined.



Next it was time to install some servos into the frames... The frame bag is in the main box and additionally hardware is in bag 29 30 31.



Make sure to take sharp edges off the frame by sanding. Again, wet sanding is preferable, but if you use dry sandpaper, wear a mask. 600 or 800 grit works well.



Since the frame standoffs are plastic, put CA on a toothpick and apply it to the inside of the standoff as shown. Note that the screw starts really easily.



Because the screw starts easily, be careful not to over tighten.



To prepare for installing the servos, pre-thread the servo nuts. It makes the process MUCH easier.



Starting with the rudder servo, slide it into the frame. Micro servos such as the MKS DS95i go on the left frame half. Mini servos go on the right frame half. Note the spacer. The manual indicated it went on the outside of the servo mounting tabs and not between the servo and the frames.



Here's a trick I picked up from past builds. Servo nuts get lost! So, when I built my first kit with servo nuts, I learned the hard way that putting CA under the servo nut so it will stay put when servo maintenance is required.



Don't over tighten the servo mounting screws. They go into plastic and can strip.



Next step is to install the elevator servo. Use the large spacers. Remember to pre-thread the servo nuts you use. Also with DS92+ servos, the servo lead comes out right over one of the screws. If you use this servo type, be very careful when you install and tighten the screw! Finally, the manual stated 1mm spacers were not necessary with MKS DS92+ and DS95 cyclics.



The servo nut is on the other side. I used one of the plastic servo nuts in the kit--one hole only.



I checked to make sure the elevator ball was in the center of the frame by positioning the electronics tray in its slots and sighting down the center. This is easy because the screws holding the electronics tray to its supports are on the center line of the helicopter. Also, note the large spacer between the elevator servo and the frame.

Next up, we continue with the frames!

Scott
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Old 12-08-2012, 08:33 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Default Frame Part 2

Part 2 of the frame assembly. This took a bit of time as I was making sure things were right and I've made some wiring decisions.



Lots-o-numbers on this bag! Many steps!



The bag-o-numbers contains the battery tray, the special washer for belt tensioner, and screws for what is to come.



Plastic to metal = CA in the screw holes--applied via trusty toothpick.



The tray has a ridge for fitting, the frame fits into the ridge. It might be a bit anal, but I started attaching the battery tray to the frame using screws in the center and worked my way out.



I have a suggestion for building the belt tensioner that may help eliminate confusion and installation woes: Don't assemble it at Step 23--assemble it now. That way you have a better chance at getting it right and getting it to fit properly!

When you attach the assembly to the frame, use the special washer but don't crank down on the screws. This assembly has slots to slide freely and must move with the motor as you adjust belt tension.



The belt tensioner installed. The screws are tightened so it won't move up and down, but will still slide in the slots.



This is the belt tensioner clearance for my kit. Both upper and lower pulley's rotate freely.



Installing the upper bearing block.



The flange must face toward the top of the frame.



Installing the lower bearing block. Don't tighten the screws just yet.



The lower bearing blocks bearing flange must fit toward the bottom.



Slide in the main shaft to align the bearing blocks. Tighten the lower bearing block with the shaft installed. Next, bring the helicopter upright. The main shaft should slide freely through the bearings. A "Fall Through" fit is desired.



Note the orientation of the bearing blocks, particularly the screw holes. These are the holes for the aileron/pitch servo mounts.



In order to get a good fit in the frame, at this point wiring choices were necessary--they may change, but for now, this is how I ran the aileron/pitch servo leads.



Top view of the wiring run.



Next, I test fit the servos/mount. I only used one screw to get an idea of fit. Looks like ear on the elevator servo may hit the servo in front.



Test fit picture 2. Looks like the wires are fine. Please note: This was only a test wiring scenario. It is provided as an example of how it could be done. As such, all wires do clear the main shaft and are not crimped at all. I will likely change it once I get further along. Another option is to come over the top main bearing and run the wires between the servos on the front side of the mount. If that is what I finally choose, I will likely use something like Scotch 4011 to hold the wires down in a sandwich fashion.



The wiring was fine so I installed and thread locked the remaining screws for the servo/mount.



I then clipped the ears on the elevator servo arm.

Next up, we'll finish this side of the frame. It looks like it will be a good time to make the remaining wiring choices, too. Additionally, I'll attempt to mount my ESC. My ESC is a Castle ICE 50, so it will be tight. I may have to trim the mounting ears from its plastic case. Additionally, before the right half of the frame is installed, I will install and test the elevator/antirotation link.

Scott
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Old 12-09-2012, 01:37 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Default Another wiring option

Here's another wiring option I'm thinking of... now that I'm waiting on a Kontronik ESC for my helicopter, I'm kind of in a holding pattern.



I mentioned I was thinking of this, so I thought I would give it a try. First, I cut a strip of Scotch 4011 tape and put it between the servos. Next, I peeled off the backing and...



Then I ran a lead between the servos and pressed it into the 4011 tape. Note: The servo mount has been sanded smooth so the lead crosses nothing with a jagged edge. I also positioned the lead so it cleared the screw and flange of the bearing in the upper bearing block.



Next, I cut another strip of Scotch 4011 tap and put it over the first lead I positioned.



I peeled off the backing and positioned the other servo lead on the 4011 tape--I made sure it cleared the screw and the flange of the top bearing block, too.



This is the top view.



This shows the bearing block and servo/mount back in the frame. I think I like this better than the other method. I have something similar on my T-Rex 450 pro--the swash never comes close to hitting the wires, but I had to use heat shrink over the wires there due to using zip ties to keep the wires in place Here, I don't think heat shrink over the wires is necessary. Additionally, I've used 4011 to hold wires down on other helicopters, and it works. Wires don't come off unless you want them to come off.

So, we'll see how this works out. If I have to change it, it will likely take place during setup when I set swash limits.

Scott
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Old 12-09-2012, 05:56 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Default Finishing the left side of the frame

Here we're going to be finishing up the left side of the frame. I'm not putting in the boom block, yet as I'm waiting for my Kontronik Koby 40 ESC to arrive.



Bag 37 38 39 contains one spacer and the hardware for mounting the motor on the left side of the frame.



Refer to the illustration for step 38 in the manual for the location of the spacer as the drawing for this step is unclear.



Now I'm going to skip around a bit. Because it may be difficult to install the elevator link as stated in the manual, I chose to do it now. The parts for the link are in bag 56 57 59.



The bag contains links for the aileron and pitch servos. We don't need those now, so we'll put those aside and build the elevator link with the remaining parts.



The manual calls the link rods set screws; they're very long set screws! Thread them with two 1.5mm hex wrenches into the delrin tube until the ends are even with the tube.



Next, gently thread on both links and turn them slowly until they start to go inside the delrin tube.



To save your fingers, use two link tools to finish threading.



You're done threading when the length of the link is 57.5mm from end to end. Please note that this link looks longer. That is because it's difficult to get a closeup picture without getting parallax. So, look at the shadow under the link!



The elevator link must fit through the anti-rotation bracket and be perpendicular to the top bearing block. If not, you will have to adjust your elevator servo position with the provided spacers.



Another view of the elevator link.



Next, we install the electronics tray. Make sure to clean the screws with alcohol.



The tongues in the tray must fit inside the slots of the frame.



Next we install the motor. Don't do as I did here--get the belt out for the motor now and put it on the pulley! It will save you having to remove the motor (should be easy--only four screws) later.

Note the special washer. It's a longer version of the special washer for the belt tension pulley mount. It's pretty cool Compass chose to do this because it makes the assembly move as one unit much better than having screws alone.



Don't use thread locker in this step, just get the screws snug.



Now, I know why I didn't put the belt on! I wanted to show you there should be no binding or parts rubbing against one another when the motor is installed. Also, note how the motor pulley's height matches that of the motor idler pulley.

Next time you see my motor, the belt will be installed.

Next up, likely Tuesday, we'll explore wiring as now -- with the left side of the frame completed--is a perfect time. Why Tuesday? I'm waiting on my Kontronik Koby 40 ESC to arrive and it's a critical part of wiring.

Scott
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Old 12-10-2012, 06:37 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Default HUGE departure from the manual

Okay folks... what is to follow is a huge departure from the manual: I'm going to install the main pulley's while the frame is still open. Last night, I was PM'ing with Rob43 and he was telling me about the main pulley and OWB sleeve installation. This just popped into my head. If someone else has done it, my apologies--I truly haven't read about it being done this way. All I have to say is this: It's easy!



Get out bag 40 41.



Bag 40 41 contains parts to mount the boom block to the frames and parts to attach the right side of the frame to the left side of the frame. For this departure from the manual, we're only interested in the four long screws, eight washers, and four nylock nuts.



Slide the four screws with washers into the left side of the frame.



Flip the frame over. Note the position of the boom alignment nubs. These nubs are on both sides of the boom block and go toward the front of the frame.



Attach the other side of the boom block and install the nylock nuts with washers. Do not tighten at this point.



Slide the boom and the tail belt through the boom block. Now, just tighten two screws caddy corner from each other part the way. Align the slot in the boom with the tabs in the boom block and tighten the two caddy corner screws just enough so the boom is held in place. Slowly push the boom all the way in--be careful not to damage the alignment tabs. Align the belts. Turn the tail belt one quarter turn to the left--this will ensure the tail spins in the correct direction--leading edge up into the down wash of the main blades when the helicopter is upright. Put the belts on the pulleys.



Slide the main shaft through the bearing blocks--not all the way, though. Only allow about 5-10mm protrude from the underside of the bottom bearing block. Put the spacer on the main shaft.



Next, carefully slide the main shaft into the main pulley assembly. Be careful not to lose the spacer as this is a critical part. Next remove the Jesus bolt from the OWB sleve and set it aside. Slide the OWB sleeve into the main pulley assembly as shown. Rotate the main shaft and align the hole in the OWB sleeve with the hole in the main shaft.



Slide in the Jesus bolt.



Thread the nylock nut onto the Jesus bolt and tighten. Do not over tighten. Snug is good enough.



Next, get out bag 49.



Because we tightened the screws holding the bearing blocks and aligned them earlier, we can finish installing the main shaft.

Bag 49 has the main shaft clamping collar and the clamping screw. Note that there is a shoulder on one side of the clamping collar. The shoulder must face down and contact the flange bearing on the top motor mount.



Slide the main shaft clamping collar over the shaft so the shoulder faces down. Install the screw with blue thread locker. While tightening the clamping screw, pull up on the main shaft while pressing down on the clamping collar. NOTE: If you choose this method, do not press down too hard or pull up too hard on the collar/main shaft, you may bend the CF of the frame. When tight, the clamping collar should contact the flange bearing, rotate freely and there should be no up/down play of the main shaft. If we have to readjust this in a later step... no biggie. We'll just check it after we get the right side of the frames attached.



This is top view showing the servo lead/clamping collar clearance.



Another top view. The wires clear the collar sufficiently.

That's about it for this radical departure from the manual. If you choose to assemble your model this way it will simplify belt and pulley installation. You will have to remove the nylock nuts and washers from one side of the tail boom block before you attach the other side of the frame--I would put tape on the boom to hold it to the bearing block just to further simplify things.

Next up, we'll do the final wiring and install the tail push rod. I hope my Koby arrives tomorrow!

Scott
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:20 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Default Buttoning up the frames--finally!

Finally, it's time to button up the frames. I've made my wiring choice. I'm pretty confident it should work out.



I opted to run the cyclic servo leads on the inside of the frame next to the ESC. I also bundled the long throttle lead and taped it to the ESC. Note that I cut out the dividers to the stock cutouts on the electronics tray. I Goop'd slit heat shrink tubing to the edges so the wires would not be damaged--even though I sanded the edges. Also, note the servo lead clearance from the frame and the electronics tray standoff/spacer.



As mentioned earlier when I installed the boom, belts, pulleys, and main shaft, I removed the nylock nuts and washers, put the frame over the screws, then reinstalled the washers and nuts. I only tightened in a crossing pattern until the boom was snug. I'll adjust belt tension later, but it seems pretty good, now. We'll see later.



This shows the clearance of the belt tensioner pulleys prior to installing the special washer and screws.



Here we're installing the special wash and screws for the belt tensioner. No thread locker or cranking down on the screws yet--only make them snug as later we'll also adjust drive belt tension.



I then installed the screw for the spacer with thread locker.



When installing the bearing block screws, snug them down first.



Then tighten them in a crossing pattern.



For the battery tray, like we did on the other side of the frame, use CA in the screw holes. Again, I started in the middle and worked my way out with each screw.



Electronics tray installation. Two screws, thread locker applied.



The special washer for the motor mount and attaching screws.



Just snug them down and don't use thread locker. They must be able to slide when we adjust drive belt tension.

The frame is now buttoned up. I also installed the tail control rod. Others have reported they had to shorten the rod, but that does not appear the case with my installation. Thanks to Mike J. at Nankin for the replacement sleeves!

Next up, we'll do the lower canopy mount and landing gear.

Scott
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Old 12-13-2012, 07:11 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Default Landing gear and canopy

Okay, guys.. here we go with the landing gear, canopy mount, and canopy!



Bag 44 45 Contains the landing gear, lower canopy mount and hardware.



Contents of bag 44 45



Landing gear mounts and canopy mounts out of the bag and laid out pretty much how they are installed.



There are posts in the bag that are used to hold both the lower canopy mount and the landing gear in place. I thought the best thing was to thread the landing gear mounting screws and use them to hold in the posts while I mounted the lower canopy mount.



The lower canopy mount assembled and ready for installation.



Use thread locker on the screws and rotate the posts so the machined flat spot mates with the spacer on the lower canopy mount.



Tighten the screws evenly-making sure the lower canopy mount spacers are in the machined flat spots on the posts.



Here I depart from the manual yet again. I removed two of the landing gear mounts and the screws. I slid the plastic landing gear mount over the landing gear and lined up the holes in the mount with the slots in the landing gear. I tried to install. them at this point only to find...



The screws were too long--I couldn't tighten them--they bottomed out. I cut approximately 3mm from each screw. The picture above shows a screw of its original size and the cut down screw.



I was pretty confident the cut down screws would work, so I slowly threaded the screws into the landing gear mount and applied thread locker to each screw.



Because the inside half of the plastic landing gear mount requires the screw to be threaded through, you must hold the plastic mount as you tighten the screws. Alternate tightening each screw about two turns at a time so no side forces are present. It also helps to push up on the landing gear as you're holding the mount and tightening the screw.



Here's an alternative grip you can use to push up on the landing gear as you're tightening the screws. This way works best on the side not used for your rudder servo. You place your thumb on the underside of the landing gear and a finger in side the open rudder servo hole and squeeze as you tighten the screw.

When you've gotten the screws tight, take a look at the sides of the mount. The landing gear must be all the way in the mount. If you have to loosen the screws, no biggie, just push up on the landing gear and slightly rotate the mount until both sides of the landing gear are flush inside the mount. Then slowly re-tighten as above.

Remove the landing gear mounts and screws from the other side of the frame and repeat.



Here the landing gear are installed. They're tight. I have no fear of them falling out in flight or in transit.



Next we're going to install the canopy. Shown above is the canopy and the unmarked bag from inside the big box with the grommets and lower canopy mount slide with screws.



First, I installed the grommets. The holes in my canopy had to be reamed slightly. No biggie, this is normal for most kits I have built. Since the canopy was pre-reamed, it was easy. I've had other kits where the canopy didn't even have nubs for reaming.



Next you should install the lower canopy-side mount. This mount slides over the frame-side canopy mount as shown--curved side down so it will conform with the shape of the canopy. You'll notice it's not drilled.

At this point, install the canopy--make sure you slide the canopy over the mount. Take many looks at the canopy to make sure it's straight, then use something like a sharpie or scribe to make a mark through the pre-drilled lower canopy holes and onto the lower canopy-side mount.

Drill holes for the mount screws into the plastic. I used a 1/16" drill bit.



Remove the canopy-side mount from the frame-side mount and drill your holes. Next, use the self-tapping phillips head screws, pre-tap the holes in the plastic canopy mount. Remove the screws, line up the plastic mount and thread in the screws. Above shows what the canopy-side mount looks like installed in the canopy.



The canopy and landing gear are installed!

Next up, we'll adjust belt tension, tighten down the motor and belt tensioner, do the boom, and move on to basic setup!

Scott
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__________________
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Old 12-14-2012, 10:56 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Default Belt tightening and final wiring

Up next, we're going to tighten the belts and finish up the wiring job.



Since we tightened the boom clamp screws earlier to make sure the boom wouldn't move, we now need to loosen the bolts so the boom can slide freely but not flop around.



Also, loosen all the screws for the belt tensioner and the motor mount. Don't take the screws out but just make them loose enough so the motor mount/belt tensioner combination can slide freely in the slots cut in the frame. Earlier, we made sure the combination could slide. If now it doesn't slide, you will need to remove the screws and lightly file the frame slots in which the screws reside.



Next, pull back on the motor while you tighten one of the motor mount screws. Observe the main drive belt tension. After tightening all the screws my belt has about 2-4 mm of flex inward.



Next remove one screw for either the belt tensioner or the motor mount. Reinstall that screw with thread locker. Repeat this for the seven remaining screws. After you're done, recheck the main drive belt tension--it should be identical as tested earlier. If not, you will need to repeat the prior steps.



At this point there may be slack in the tail drive belt. The purpose of this step is to remove the slack and put tension on the tail drive belt. The first thing to do is tighten the boom block clamp bolts until there is tension on the boom as you put the boom outward and it does not return to its original position. Pull the boom outward until the tail drive belt is tight with about 2-3 mm of deflection (depending on where you push on the belt and how hard you push).

If the boom slips when you stop pulling, simply tighten the screws just a little more and repeat this step. I had to do it two times.



Once the boom stops slipping and the tail drive belt keeps its tension, you can tighten the bolts. Make sure you tighten them evenly in a crossing fashion. You do not need to really crank down on these bolts. Too tight and you may damage the boom.



This is the underside of the belt tensioner showing the gap between it and the boom. There is parallax in this picture--the real distance is approximately 3mm between the end of the boom and the belt tensioner. I am not too worried about this as I will likely have to redo belt tension once the helicopter has flown a couple of times. Typically, belts stretch some then settle on their final length.



Final wiring. The first thing I did was plug all servo/throttle leads into the AR7200BX. Next, I cut a piece of Scotch 4011, cleaned the bottom of the AR7200BX with alcohol, and put the 4011 on the bottom of the AR7200BX .



I don't really trust my ability to eyeball when something is perpendicular to the main shaft, so I always find some way to borrow a Mr. Mel tip. Mr. Mel uses a lego block to make sure flybarless sensors are installed properly. The challenge here is to find something that will hold its shape when you press on it, then be able to be held in place while you install your sensor.

In my case, I used my caliper box. I rested one side of the box against the aileron and pitch servo screws, removed the backing tape from the 4011, then pushed the AR7200BX against the box while I slid the AR7200BX down onto the frame. Even though its not critical for it to be centered in the frame, mine is centered.



Next, I positioned the AR7200BX antennae. I positioned the short antenna so it faced forward, then looped the long antennae around the AR7200BX and slid it through a wire keeper. I used Goop to make sure the long antenna does not slide out of the wire keeper in flight. Note that I will likely bend one antenna vertical.



Next up, I looped a piece of velcro around the motor leads and the elevator servo lead. I cut the velcro then ran one tie wrap through the frame, lower bearing block and back up between the frame and the main drive pulley.



This is a top picture showing the wiring. I'll use Goop on the leads attached to the AR7200BX so they don't fall out during flight. Other folks may like hot glue. Some may use 4011. Whatever you use, use something as its important to keep the wires firmly in place.



This shows the final left side frame wiring. As I mentioned earlier, the rudder servo lead needed to run on the outside of the frame unless I used an extension. I taped the lead to the top of the servo, then used a piece of 4011 to hold the lead to the frame. Also, you can see the position of the tie wrap over the velcro strip I used to bundle the motor leads and the elevator servo lead as they traversed the frame.

Next up, we'll tackle basic setup. That likely won't happen until Monday as I have family obligations throughout the weekend. We're almost done!

Scott
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Old 12-17-2012, 05:44 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Default

Okay, guys... I think this is the next to last installment! We start setup, now!



During setup, using the RCLogger2, it's important the helicopter stays in one place and keeps the same attitude, so I decided to use the battery to keep the nose down. So, I had to install the battery.

I first put one side of the velcro on the battery... the fluffly stuff.



Then I put the hard, not fluffly stuff on the underside of the battery tray.



Next, I threaded the supplied battery straps through the frame.



I cut them to size...



Then attached the battery. Remembering that I never installed the tail blades, I did so .... next...



Bag 12 13 contains the tail blades, special washers, bolts, "Chinese weights" and nylock nuts.



I arranged the parts here as they will be installed.



First, I slid in the special washer--it conforms with the inside of the grip, then put a screw with a weight on it through the grip and into the special washer.



Next, I slid in a blade, then repeated the steps above for the second special washer.



Note that a weight goes on each side of the grip. (Weights appear to be washers.)



Then I repeated the process on the other grip. The blades are in.



Next I setup the length of the tail pitch rod. The tail pitch rod must be adjusted so the pitch arm is at 90 degrees with the frame. Note that I removed the washer that effectively clamps the link in the place. I did this so I could adjust the length of the rod by either turning the tail control rod to adjust the link on the servo arm or simply turned the link on this end of the rod. All this was performed while in step E of AR7200BX setup.



Here you see the pitch arm at 90 degrees--perpendicular to the boom. Note the sleeve has been pushed over the link.



Next I reinstalled the washer and used thread locker on the screw.



To start swash plate leveling I first adjusted the aileron and pitch links to 45mm from end to end.



I installed the links and found they needed to be re-sized. I re-sized the links and reinstalled them on the swash and servos.



Above shows the RCLogger 2 unit and the adapter for leveling the swash plate.



When you install the adapter to the swash, you must make sure it is installed, then clamped to the swash plate itself. The adapter must be adjusted so it is parallel with the frames or else you will get readings that are a mix of pitch and roll axis. Not good!



I turned on the RCLogger 2 unit, zeroed it on the motor (this why I needed the battery) and snapped it on the adapter. I went to step G in the AR7200BX and these were the initial values read.



It takes some playing around to get used to how it works. I found the adapter/unit combination would move slightly the more you played around. I clamped it down really hard and started over. It never moved and made it much easier to get the swash level. If you do clamp yours hard, be aware the top section of the adapter does bend. Check the lower side for flex as well. If yours flexes, it will compromise your readings as the sensor will be tilted! Additionally, you may break the top adapter! You still have to learn what does what and it does take patience to get right. There are interactions of the axis but once you figure it out. You can get it perfect.

I suspect this would be easier to use on a larger helicopter as the servos have more resolution so you can lock in a value easier. This was after about a half hour of playing and learning how to use it.

As you can see above, the AR7200BX is in step G with the elevator servo selected. It shows the swash plate is perfectly leveled. We'll check this in a couple of days with the tool Diviner is making.

My take is as I stated before--this should be easier to use on a larger helicopter. If you get one and use it on the Warp, just take your time and you'll get it.

Next up, we'll compare this result with the tool Diviner is making. I suspect it will be spot on, but it's nice to have a way to confirm--at least for the first leveling. Then we'll complete setup.

Scott
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__________________
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