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SAB Goblin 630/700/770 SAB Heli Division 630/700/770 - Goblin Helicopters Factory Support


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Old 01-05-2013, 07:38 PM   #141 (permalink)
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Attached to the pack? Or above the pack? I just got to the step where I put in all 4 servos and and starting to wonder about power.
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Old 01-05-2013, 07:40 PM   #142 (permalink)
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Quote:
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On top of the main packs.
why?

use the factory mount between the skids on the battery tray at the rear.
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Old 01-05-2013, 07:54 PM   #143 (permalink)
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why?

use the factory mount between the skids on the battery tray at the rear.
I had originally planned on that, but I hate having stuff hanging off the bottom of the heli - it's like it's an afterthought, or something. I have the room, so I figured I would get it inside the battery compartment.
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Old 01-05-2013, 08:06 PM   #144 (permalink)
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I had originally planned on that, but I hate having stuff hanging off the bottom of the heli - it's like it's an afterthought, or something. I have the room, so I figured I would get it inside the battery compartment.
Mines going to live under my heli, but im skeptical tho, it looks sketchy LOL !
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Old 01-05-2013, 09:31 PM   #145 (permalink)
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Default Battery Installation

Harware for the battery pack is found in Bag 14A. SAB includes two complete battery trays with the kit. One thing to note is that the manual refers to the lower tray as part #H0149-S. In fact, the lower trays are in a bag labeled #H0149-U.



The system is designed to put the pack(s) between two pieces of carbon fiber and then shrink wrap the entire unit. This is a neat design, however, I found it a bit problematic to add the top piece of carbon when using 6s packs. The Pulse Ultra 12s stick packs would be ideal for this arrangement.



I also chose to put the receiver battery inside the battery compartment as opposed to below the tray and between the skids. I did not feel comfortable having my receiver battery hanging off the bottom of the heli.



The tray can then be easily slid into the compartment and is held in place with a strap.



This photo shows the receiver pack. I also have used a battery strap to secure it in place (not shown).


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Old 01-05-2013, 09:40 PM   #146 (permalink)
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The next step is to prepare the canopy. Bag 14 has a small roll of adhesive foam stripping. The roll should be cut in half and each half applied to the lower edge of the canopy. This is to prevent vibrations,



At this point the canopy can be fitted to frame and secured using the canopy knobs. You will first want to install the O rings on the canopy knobs.

At this point I also put the blades on the heli. There are shims for the main blades that must be placed on the top and bottom of the blade. Slipping the shims and blades into the grips and keeping it all aligned so that the bolt could drop through was a bit tricky, as the grips are very tight with the shims.



Everything is complete now and it is ready for the maiden flight!



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Old 01-05-2013, 09:41 PM   #147 (permalink)
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looks good, i wish mine had a battery tray wonder why the 700's don't come with them...
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Old 01-05-2013, 09:43 PM   #148 (permalink)
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WOW Great job aramb! Your done. Congratulations. Good luck on the maiden flight and get some video. Thanks for doing the thread.. it was fun following along. I am at the point where I am scratching my head on the wiring.

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Old 01-05-2013, 09:51 PM   #149 (permalink)
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Great Job on the build

Good luck on the maiden. Don't bother much with trying to fuss with the fbl settings for the first couple flights until it breaks in a bit. You may get some elevator/aileron funkiness but after a few flights you should be able to dial it in.
Also note that in the extreme cold the links are really tight especially when new.
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Old 01-05-2013, 09:51 PM   #150 (permalink)
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Default Maiden Flight Complete

I got the heli put together right about sunset this evening. I decided to run out and give it a whirl. The sound is amazing! I have never heard another heli that sounds like this. Of course, Goblin 630/700 owners are already used to this. It is very quiet and very smooth, thanks to the belt driven system. Additionally, I like to run really low headspeeds, which coupled with the belt drive results in a very unique and cool sound! I started out with a couple minutes of hovering at 1350 RPM. Very stable, no quirky behavior at all - other than a tendency to drift backwards. The drift is a result of the SK540 not being dialed in yet - the CG is spot on. After I was satisfied that it wasn't going to come apart in flight, I spooled it up to Idle 1 (1500 RPM) and did a few circuits. It felt very nimble. After landing I realized that I had set no expo in aileron, elevator or rudder in my radio! That is a carryover from all my vBar helis which have the expo in the vBar as opposed to in the radio. All things considered, I think it went very well. Next flight I will run it at Idle 2 (1650 RPM) and try some flips and rolls to see how she handles.

Today was my birthday, so this was a very nice birthday present!!!
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Old 01-05-2013, 09:55 PM   #151 (permalink)
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Happy Birthday! Nice to hear about the flight.
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Old 01-05-2013, 11:08 PM   #152 (permalink)
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Happy Birthday! Great job on the build and congrats on the successful maiden.
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Old 01-05-2013, 11:36 PM   #153 (permalink)
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Mines completed as well but it is 11:33 here so way too late to even think about it.

and its raining and cold anyway.

maiden will have to wait.

set up for 2000 RPM

with the IKON in there.


looking forward to trying it the setup seemed easy as cake.

Thanks SAB and RCGalore
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Old 01-06-2013, 12:00 AM   #154 (permalink)
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Nice Ceevee, wanted to go for yellow/blue combo but my 630 is already yellow.
sigh. It sure looks nicer than the red/grey combo. HS 2200!!!! your another animal.
Lol. Happy maiden
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Old 01-06-2013, 12:01 AM   #155 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jchen View Post
Nice Ceevee, wanted to go for yellow/blue combo but my 630 is already yellow.
sigh. It sure looks nicer than the red/grey combo. HS 2200!!!! your another animal.
Lol. Happy maiden
that was a typo 2000 on the headspeed.
the recommended setup.
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Old 01-06-2013, 12:10 AM   #156 (permalink)
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Ceevee, Your running Quantum 500Kv with CC 160HV ya.
I decided to go with the Pyro 800-480/Kosmic combo as
i can fly 12S & upgrade to 14S later. Let us know of your
maiden.
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Old 01-06-2013, 08:24 AM   #157 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aramb View Post
I got the heli put together right about sunset this evening. I decided to run out and give it a whirl. The sound is amazing! I have never heard another heli that sounds like this. Of course, Goblin 630/700 owners are already used to this. It is very quiet and very smooth, thanks to the belt driven system. Additionally, I like to run really low headspeeds, which coupled with the belt drive results in a very unique and cool sound! I started out with a couple minutes of hovering at 1350 RPM. Very stable, no quirky behavior at all - other than a tendency to drift backwards. The drift is a result of the SK540 not being dialed in yet - the CG is spot on. After I was satisfied that it wasn't going to come apart in flight, I spooled it up to Idle 1 (1500 RPM) and did a few circuits. It felt very nimble. After landing I realized that I had set no expo in aileron, elevator or rudder in my radio! That is a carryover from all my vBar helis which have the expo in the vBar as opposed to in the radio. All things considered, I think it went very well. Next flight I will run it at Idle 2 (1650 RPM) and try some flips and rolls to see how she handles.

Today was my birthday, so this was a very nice birthday present!!!
Congratulations and Happy Birthday man! Nice to see someone else using the Anderson Powerpoles
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Old 01-06-2013, 11:47 AM   #158 (permalink)
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Default Servo Arm Screws

This is just a "heads up" to avoid any confusion. When I first assembled my servos, I used the screws that came with them to attach the servo arms. However, in the case of many servos, the included screws have a Phillips-head. The problem is that if you ever need to remove or tighten the screws after the servos are attached to the servo structure, you will not be able to get a screwdriver in there. SAB includes M3x6mm Socket Head Cap Screws in the kit that should be used to attach the servo arms. They also include an Allen wrench that will fit this screw so that you can access these screws without removing the entire servo. Additionally, the screws included with the kit are slightly longer.

In short, you want it to look like this:



Not like this:

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Old 01-06-2013, 12:05 PM   #159 (permalink)
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+1 Great Recommendation. I use 3mm cap screws on all my servo arms too. (OT: It's a little weird but on my TDRs Jan uses Philips head screws to hold the servos on... go figure...)
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Old 01-06-2013, 12:06 PM   #160 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silas3d View Post
+1 Great Recommendation. I use 3mm cap screws on all my servo arms too. (OT: It's a little weird but on my TDRs Jan uses Philips head screws to hold the servos on... go figure...)
don't for get a bit of loctite
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