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Old 03-24-2013, 11:22 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Harry,

I posted my solution to mounting links in another thread the other day, but I'll make a video up quick and post it. Really simple and saves your hands!
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Old 03-24-2013, 11:23 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Todd's method is cool and it works!

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Old 03-24-2013, 11:48 AM   #23 (permalink)
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The Video is still processing on Youtube, Here is the link for when it is done:

How to install ALeeS Ball Links (0 min 59 sec)
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Old 03-24-2013, 03:25 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Default Re: My Build

We need our own set of Rush ball link pliers.

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Old 03-24-2013, 03:32 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I would like to make the alternative suggestion of using standard ball link pliers to remove links. Standard pliers remove the links just fine.

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Old 03-24-2013, 03:39 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LifeCycle View Post
We need our own set of Rush ball link pliers.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2
Botos has his own, we need better...
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Old 03-25-2013, 01:22 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by backburner1955 View Post
Botos has his own, we need better...
x2
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:33 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Thanks all. Been so busy in the shed all weekend (probably about 12 hours in the shed in two days lol) I hadn't checked back here. Thanks for the replies. I'm using 30 min epoxy to glue the bearings to the TT (don't have any CA or 5 min epoxy atm) so I've had to leave it over night to bond. When I get in from work tonight, I've really only got the TT and boom installation left to do then the mechanical build is complete!

Just gotta save the pennies up now to get the motor, ESC main blades and LiPos! It's going to take a lot of pennies haha.
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:51 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlaneHazza View Post
Thanks all. Been so busy in the shed all weekend (probably about 12 hours in the shed in two days lol) I hadn't checked back here. Thanks for the replies. I'm using 30 min epoxy to glue the bearings to the TT (don't have any CA or 5 min epoxy atm) so I've had to leave it over night to bond. When I get in from work tonight, I've really only got the TT and boom installation left to do then the mechanical build is complete!

Just gotta save the pennies up now to get the motor, ESC main blades and LiPos! It's going to take a lot of pennies haha.
I used 30 minute on mine as well, and roughed up the TT at the mating points.

one little trick I used to make sure everything was straight before mounting the boom on the heli was to run the TT on a drill just to make sure there were no vibes. I may be a little crazy, but she does run straight and true ;-)
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Old 03-25-2013, 10:42 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by backburner1955 View Post
Botos has his own, we need better...
I don't follow... So some dude has his own, but we need better ones than that?
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Old 03-25-2013, 11:45 AM   #31 (permalink)
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He means ball link pliers that don't require grinding to work. Works out of the box.

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Old 03-25-2013, 11:45 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Can anyone give me some ideas for mounting electronics? I've looked throught the pictures and build thread but everyone seems to be using VBar and/or Spektrum. I have the following components to find homes for on this model:

- CC120HV ESC (when I buy it) - will fit this up top
- SBUS Receiver - ideally needs to mount very close the CGY750 amp
- CGY750 gyro sensor
- CGY750 amp - this has an LCD and buttons so needs to be easily accessible
- LiFe Flight Pack

Also, for simplicity should I just stick to the CC governor (seems OK on my fusion) or should I get a hobby wing phase sensor and use the CGY750 governor?

Is it safe to mount the Rx and gyro amp on the side frames? One more question . All the slot in CF trays are very snug, except for the horizontal one that most use for gyro placement. If I give it a firm push it will slide fore and aft about 1mm. Should I add a dot of glue to a couple of the joins so it secures it non permanently?

Thanks!!
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Old 03-25-2013, 12:58 PM   #33 (permalink)
 
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i put my cgy750 control on the inside wall in the gryo tray where some people have mounted the beastx and i put my sensor right below it on the gryo tray

i put my Sbus rx under the esc tray the top tray

i used a lipo..... but should be probably the same sizeish i put that on the front tray
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Old 03-25-2013, 01:04 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Cool never thought about that. Is it easy enough to see and get to? I know once it's dialled in etc you don't have to fiddle all that much, but the first few flights are going to need a lot of tweaking, even on 1.3.
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Old 03-25-2013, 01:09 PM   #35 (permalink)
 
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ya it great no problems getting it and its like a sun shade so its eazy to see
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Old 03-28-2013, 12:05 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Hi all, new question

Just after some advice. Even with my phone's LED flash, I'm having trouble seeing the tail servo arm to tell if it's at 90 degrees (parallel to the main shaft) or not. Any tips? I'm using a plastic 6 arm futaba horn on a DS655 at 14mm.
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Old 03-28-2013, 12:25 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlaneHazza View Post
Hi all, new question

Just after some advice. Even with my phone's LED flash, I'm having trouble seeing the tail servo arm to tell if it's at 90 degrees (parallel to the main shaft) or not. Any tips? I'm using a plastic 6 arm futaba horn on a DS655 at 14mm.
unfortunately, time and patience is about the only way. find the 90, and mark the arm to mount on before putting the arm on permanently. Also, mout the tail pushrod to the ball before you put the horn on. Trust me on that...
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Old 03-28-2013, 12:29 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LifeCycle View Post
We need our own set of Rush ball link pliers.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2
Will the Botos ball link pliers work?
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Old 03-28-2013, 01:54 PM   #39 (permalink)
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If your FBL controller supports this, have the tail servo hooked up and programmed before you try to get the arm at 90 degrees--while in the software or firmware at a programming step. It makes it easier if the servo is already at what its electrical center happens to be.

As far as ball link pliers go... I don't know if the Botos' plier works on the ALeeS links. So... I would do as Todd suggests.

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Old 03-28-2013, 02:25 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd Moriarty View Post
unfortunately, time and patience is about the only way. find the 90, and mark the arm to mount on before putting the arm on permanently. Also, mout the tail pushrod to the ball before you put the horn on. Trust me on that...
Yeah I've started doing that. Mount the ball into the link, gently squeeze them with some pliers then fit them to the arm. I've even started doing this when adjusting links - I don't take the link off the ball, I just unscrew the ball from the swash etc then reapply threadlock. Fingers are much happier with me

All done

Now, how have people routed their elevator servo wire? Got a good idea to run it along the top of the motor mount but I think it would catch the motor so probably a very bad idea.
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