Adjustable turnbuckles?

[caralmar]

Anyone know of any adjustable turnbuckles that would fit between main blade and control arm? These rods are 40.5mm in length.

I have finished re-assembling my Rush with all new parts (replaced both control arms, balls, and plastic radius arms, and also both pitch links and both ball links). After confirming that my swash was perfectly level (I used the red leveler made for the Rush), I tried to set zero pitch, but my current problem is that I'm off by about 0.3 degrees on the digital gauge on one blade. The other is at zero. The reason is that one link is just a hair longer than the other and no matter how I turn them, I'm always off by a little.

Now I realize I will probably not see this in flight, but it just bugs me that I can't get to an exact zero. So, the question is, does anyone know of adjustable turnbuckles, like the Da Vinci ones that would fit the Rush and the Rush's plastic ball links?

[dunkonu23]

I've thought about turnbuckles for that, too. It's a good idea. When I have more time, I'll likely try some as like you, I see no harm in being meticulous with setup.

Scott

[caralmar]

Also, I have another question related to the zero pitch topic. If we use the two rods that came with the kit to lock the swash, then we can assume that the optimal swash height is fixed on this model.

If that is the case, then the distance between the control arms and the blade grip arms should be a known fixed number as well. According to the manual, this is 62mm, which means 28mm between the links.

However, in my case, I had to go to 26mm to get to zero. Is there something wrong with my setup or is the manual incorrect? This measurement is independent of what servos you may be running, as it is a fixed distance between swash/control arms/main grip arms.

Thanks!

[caralmar]

Originally Posted by caralmar

Also, I have another question related to the zero pitch topic. If we use the two rods that came with the kit to lock the swash, then we can assume that the optimal swash height is fixed on this model.

If that is the case, then the distance between the control arms and the blade grip arms should be a known fixed number as well. According to the manual, this is 62mm, which means 28mm between the links.

However, in my case, I had to go to 26mm to get to zero. Is there something wrong with my setup or is the manual incorrect? This measurement is independent of what servos you may be running, as it is a fixed distance between swash/control arms/main grip arms.

Thanks!

LMAO... its not often that I quote myself, but in this case, I'm an idiot. I looked at the wrong links. They should be 25.5 and I'm right around there, just under 26mm.

[Todd Moriarty]

Originally Posted by caralmar

Also, I have another question related to the zero pitch topic. If we use the two rods that came with the kit to lock the swash, then we can assume that the optimal swash height is fixed on this model.

If that is the case, then the distance between the control arms and the blade grip arms should be a known fixed number as well. According to the manual, this is 62mm, which means 28mm between the links.

However, in my case, I had to go to 26mm to get to zero. Is there something wrong with my setup or is the manual incorrect? This measurement is independent of what servos you may be running, as it is a fixed distance between swash/control arms/main grip arms.

Thanks!

Carlos, if you have a swash leveler, the easiest thing to do after pinning is to make the ele and pitch links level with the elevator since that's fixed.

You do that and everything should be optimal

[dunkonu23]

What Todd said... As long as the elevator assembly isn't tweaked, use that as your guide. In my experience, the link lengths are pretty much spot on.

Scott

[Todd Moriarty]

Originally Posted by dunkonu23

What Todd said... As long as the elevator assembly isn't tweaked, use that as your guide. In my experience, the link lengths are pretty much spot on.

Scott

I think I was 2 turns off on my pitch link when I was doing my final setup

I swear that swash leveler is worth it's weight in gold though!

[backburner1955]

I used 40mm M3 Secraft Turnbuckles. You just need to clearance drill the plastic link to thread on the turnbuckle. I mean a TINY bit...

http://www.espritmodel.com/pushrod-t...raft-m3-2.aspx

[caralmar]

Nice find Bryan! What size drill bit did you use to ream out the links? Thanks!

[backburner1955]

I believe I used a #42 Wire Size drill bit, or equivalent to .093" or 3/32" and it was still tight.

[Rsams]

Very nice Im gonna have to get some of those myself. Thanks Bryan. I have been having issues getting my pitch dialed in on my rush.

[caralmar]

On this zero pitch topic... what about a simple idea here... make a flat spot on the top of the blade grips. The area that has the AleeS logo could be flattened. This would allow you to rest a digital gauge on the grip to read zero pitch without having to install a blade.

[backburner1955]

I would rather make a piece of material to rest the angle finder on to fit in the grip than F up that great machining.

OR a tool like this.

http://www.soko-heli-tools.com/en/ho...-it-works.html

[caralmar]

Originally Posted by backburner1955

I would rather make a piece of material to rest the angle finder on to fit in the grip than F up that great machining.

OR a tool like this.

http://www.soko-heli-tools.com/en/ho...-it-works.html

That's just one more thing to buy. A flat spot on the grip itself doesn't have to detract from the aesthetics if done right. Just an idea.. or you can also do what the SAB folks did and put a set of markers on the top of the head. Middle marker is zero, and the two other ones give you 12 or 13 deg. of pitch.

[dunkonu23]

Originally Posted by caralmar

That's just one more thing to buy. A flat spot on the grip itself doesn't have to detract from the aesthetics if done right. Just an idea.. or you can also do what the SAB folks did and put a set of markers on the top of the head. Middle marker is zero, and the two other ones give you 12 or 13 deg. of pitch.

Yeah, but that's the thing, Carlos... you can use the markers if you want, but in my experience with a helicopter that had markers, it's still off by what your eyes see. If you really want accuracy, you can still use something like an RC Logger 2 on the grips, you just have to be careful to not shake the grips.

Frankly, it's a minor thing to me. I put the RC Logger 2 close to the root of the blade and let things lie that way. Eric didn't complain and I doubt Todd will.

Scott

[caralmar]

Originally Posted by dunkonu23

Yeah, but that's the thing, Carlos... you can use the markers if you want, but in my experience with a helicopter that had markers, it's still off by what your eyes see. If you really want accuracy, you can still use something like an RC Logger 2 on the grips, you just have to be careful to not shake the grips.

Frankly, it's a minor thing to me. I put the RC Logger 2 close to the root of the blade and let things lie that way. Eric didn't complain and I doubt Todd will.

Scott

Hmmm, I have the original rc logger... I'll have to look into the rc logger 2. Eric is a total bad ass!

[backburner1955]

OK, so don't buy something, make something out of a piece of plastic, just seems HACK to destroy beautiful machining because of the lack of imagination...

[caralmar]

Originally Posted by backburner1955

OK, so don't buy something, make something out of a piece of plastic, just seems HACK to destroy beautiful machining because of the lack of imagination...

I don't get why you think this would destroy anything. If the AleeS logo was flat instead of curved, it is now destroyed? No worries, it's not a big deal.

And my imagination is good and well, thank you very much... . Geez, time of the month Bryan???

[backburner1955]

My bad, not meant as an attack at you. Sometimes teh filter between brain and keyboard is fouled up.

I just meant that I would hate to see somebody take a file or a tool to such a beautifully engineered part. I know what you mean, you would like to see it made flat, but it is not. I think that it is too easy to make a "tool" to do this vs. modifying the grip. Plus if someone does do such a thing, what are the chances of getting the grips the exact same weight and avoiding an imbalance?...

[Todd Moriarty]

Originally Posted by dunkonu23

Yeah, but that's the thing, Carlos... you can use the markers if you want, but in my experience with a helicopter that had markers, it's still off by what your eyes see. If you really want accuracy, you can still use something like an RC Logger 2 on the grips, you just have to be careful to not shake the grips.

Frankly, it's a minor thing to me. I put the RC Logger 2 close to the root of the blade and let things lie that way. Eric didn't complain and I doubt Todd will.

Scott

Scott, that is exactly what I did, probably with the same rclogger as well!