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Gas Powered Thoughts Advice for Gas Helicopter Success from Carey Shurley


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Old 04-18-2013, 10:11 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Default Build Thread - Leviathan Goblin 700 Conversion





History

Back in December 2012 I saw a posting about a gas conversion for a Goblin G700 helicopter. I was quite intrigued by this as the Goblin is currently a very popular helicopter and its design is pretty straightforward so its easy to build.

Eventually I was able to be introduced to the designer, Joey Chan. Joey is a partner in a company called Leviathan Designs, they design/manufacture industrial robots.

Seems that Joey likes gas helicopters!!

So he went about designing a conversion that could be used to transform a Goblin G700 or G630 into a gas helicopter. His knowledge of engineering, design, materials and manufacturing combined with his actually flying model helicopters turned out to be a good fit for something like this.

So four months later, here it is. Keep in mind this is a pre-production conversion its not yet available for sale. But I think you'll agree that after looking at it, everything in it is very high quality and it LOOKS like production kit quality

So lets get going here

Overview


Like any conversion, you need a donor model as the basis for the conversion. This one requires a Goblin 700 (or 630) as its donor

Here you can see what I'm using, its a current spec G700 using the HPS rotor head.


SAB Goblin G700 Donor Model

I'm using Futaba BLS255HV servos as well as the GY750 using the latest R1.31 firmware. Obviously no electric motor, esc, bec or main batteries are needed


Standard G700 Electronics

Here's the contents of the kit I received. All of the composite/routed parts are G10 which has a black semi-gloss finish.


Conversion Kit Parts

A couple of drawings are included to help with bolt placement


Kit Composite Parts

and this one shows where to install the various bolts/washers, etc


Kit Bolt Map

The conversion is largely complete so only a couple additional things are needed

Required Parts:
  • Throttle Servo - I'm using a Futaba BLS255HV
  • Air system battery - I'm using a Gens Ace 4000 LiPo


Required Parts for Conversion

Of course its a gas helicopter so you need a gasoline power system. The kit is designed to use the Zenoah RC format motor and clutch system.

You have several choices for motors, 23, 26 or 29cc stock or modified. Currently the major modifiers of RC motors are TRM Power and BH Hanson. I'm going to use a TRM Power VX270TT motor

You also need an exhaust system, you have many choices here. I'm going to use a Hatori SB12-R3, which is the latest gas muffler from Hatori, it uses their isolation mount system

You need a 14 oz dubro fuel tank, and of course fuel tubing

Power System Components:
  • Motor - TRM VX270TT
  • Muffler - Hatori SB12-R3
  • Clutch - Zenoah RC clutch
  • Deflector - Hostile TR880x
  • Tank - Dubro 414 tank + gas proof stopper Dubro 400
  • Tygon fuel tubing


Power System Parts

And as is typical for me, I'll be using some additional optional parts to "enhance the model".
  • Stator Gator GGS23-RC - to use as an RPM sensor for both governor and telemetry use
  • Sullivan 478 Aluminum tank stopper - I hate the plastic caps
  • Sullivan 476 fuel nipple - overflow and vent
  • Walbro 125-527 filtered clunk
  • Stens 610-079 tank vent
  • Futaba SBS-01RM Telemetry RPM sensor
  • Futaba SBS-01T Telemetry Temp sensor
  • KDE Landing Gear Supports
  • Fromeco - battery connector splitter (2 way)


Optional Parts

The main drive came pre-assembled. You can see here that it uses three bearing blocks. The drive assembly is basically a box made of the bearing blocks and a set of G10 plates to support the bearing blocks. This assembly will replace the motor plate on the donor model

This is setup very much like the Whiplash in that you can use both the pull starter and spin start it from the top BUT also uses the Zenoah clutch.

If you wanted, you can flip the OWB around in the starter yoke and use it to drive a generator


Main Drive - Side View

Here you can see the custom drive pulley mounted on the vented clutch


Main Drive - Front View

There are a few machined delrin parts.

First, two blocks which mount beneath the std landing gear supports. These support the lower motor mount plate.

Of interest is that these are slotted so that you can use the stronger KDE landing gear supports

The triangular parts replace the stock skid bumpers. In the conversion, you double up the landing gear so these have to be wider to support the double plates.


Delrin parts

As I indicated earlier you can leave the pull start in place if you desire. OR you can replace it with this custom made fan cover for a weight savings and just use the top spin start. This would preclude the use of a generator however since they commonly use the start shaft as a driver


Fan Cover - Pull Start Replacement

Finally, there's a bag of various bolts required to assemble the parts. Rather than go over these here I'll indicate them during the assembly


Included Hardware

Video Overview



Next Step:

Prepare Sub Assemblies

Last edited by carey shurley; 12-06-2018 at 08:13 AM..
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Old 04-18-2013, 10:11 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Default Build Thread - Leviathan Goblin 700 Conversion - Sub Assemblies

Sub Assemblies


This conversion is pretty straight-forward but it can be simplified even more by doing some prep work on some components that can be prepared in advance.

So I'll get those built first

Fuel Tank


This conversion uses a std Dubro 14oz fuel tank. Those include some brass tubing, fuel pickup, cap, etc. If you've followed my builds you know that I never use them. Instead I have some common parts that I usually use

here you can see the fuel tank parts needed

If you bought the optional Fuel Tank Kit, it will include everything you need
  • tank
  • cap
  • fittings
  • pickup
  • pickup tube
  • pickup fitting

The part numbers were listed in the options parts list


Fuel Tank Parts

first off build the fuel pickup line. Cut a 6" piece of the fuel tubing that comes with Zenoah RC motors. Its very flexible and it is NOT neoprene. Assemble as shown.


Fuel Pickup Line

BEFORE YOU DRILL THESE HOLES MEASURE THE FITTINGS TO MAKE SURE THEY WILL FIT


You'll need to drill holes for the vent/return lines, with the Sullivan fittings these are .244" or about 1/4". The exact position isn't that critical


Holes for Vent/Return Fittings

This hole is for the fuel pickup fitting, this is an MA#0403 fitting but any similar fitting can be used. This hole is .185" or about 3/16"

Again test check the fit on something else before you drill the tank!!!


Holes for Fuel Feed

here you can see the fittings for the tank vent/return lines installed and tightened

Vent/Return fittings installed

now insert the fuel clunk in the tank and work the threaded end of the fuel fitting through the previously drilled hole on the front of the tank

Insert assembled fuel pickup line

and tighten it fully


Fuel pickup installed

Install the fuel tank cap, make sure none of the stopper holes are exposed.


Fuel tank cap installed

The fuel tank is now complete, set it aside for now

Engine


You'll be using a Zenoah RC format motor. I'm using a TRM Power VX270TT motor, there are many choices out there. Here you can see the parts needed to prepare it for installation

The parts are:
  • Zenoah engine
  • Engine mount and bolts
  • Zenoah RC clutch/washers
  • Hostle RC deflector
  • Clutch start yoke
  • Special clutch mount bolts
  • Fan cover
  • Throttle control ball

Parts to complete engine

The conversion includes a fan cover that replaces the pull starter. If you plan on using a generator, you won't be able to save the weight of the pull starter as it will be the only way to start the motor. Otherwise I suggest you remove the pull starter, install this plate and spin start the motor as you would any other liquid fuel helicopter


Fan cover parts

and here you can see the fan cover installed

Fan cover installed

Before any clutch assembly the engine mount must be installed. If your engine has the clutch mount plate installed, you'll need to remove it first using a puller.

The production kit includes an alignment nose ring. This is ONLY for the RC2xx/RC300 engines. It is not needed for the RC320


Engine Mount parts

the nose ring has a protruding ring. This protrusion will face downward and be inserted into the engine mount


Engine nose ring design

here you can see the ring installed in the mount and bolted in with the included bolts


Engine nose ring installed - top view

you can see on the bottom that the bottom of the nose ring will be flush with the bottom of the engine mount if you have installed it in the correct orientation


Engine nose ring installed - bottom view

The nose ring is only used for the RC2xx-RC300 engines. It is not needed (and won't fit) the RC320 engine. If you intend to mount the RC320 engine you will need to acquire the optional RC320 Engine Plate Spacers


Engine Mount position on RC2xx-RC300

Here you can see the mount on an RC320. Note that the nose ring is not needed or installed


Engine Mount position on RC320


Mount and tighten the engine mount as shown using the supplied M5 bolts. Use thread lock and fully tighten. The engine mount is symmetrical so it can be installed in either direction

Engine Mount installed


Now the clutch can be be installed on the motor. Start with the clutch mount plate as shown and set the flat washers on it as shown.

Clutch Flat Washers placed

Set the clutch shoes on top of the washers. Make sure the arrow stamped in the shoes is visible on the top of the clutch. Set the spring washers on top of the clutch shoes as shown

Clutch shoes/spring washers

Now the clutch start yoke sets on top of the spring washers. In the prototype, this is an MA part however in the production conversion it may or may not be. The clutch assembly is held together by the special shouldered M5 bolts included with the conversion. These can be fully tightened using thread lock

OWB Starter yoke positioned

Insert the shouldered clutch mount bolts using thread lock. These can be fully tightened. Be careful that it fits properly through the washers and parts


Clutch mount bolts inserted

Next the air deflector will be installed. This is a part made by Hostile R/C, typically used on RC cars. It installs on the the engine fan shroud using the bolt shown here as removed

Deflector mount bolt removed

The fan deflector installs as shown using the previously removed bolt

G]Air Deflector Installed

If this is a new motor, the carb arm will be installed in the improper position.


Stock throttle arm position

Remove it by loosening the retaining bolt. Grab the arm with a tool before removing the retaining bolt, down just twist against the closed throttle. You can damage the carb butterfly

Carburetor arm removed

Install a control ball. This can be from any manufacturer for which you have a matching link. I used an SAB control ball std for this kit using thread lock. Note the orientation of the mount slots in the arm


Throttle arm ball installed

Now reinstall the carb arm positioned as shown with the carb butterfly closed. Use thread lock


Carb arm re-installed

This completes the engine pre-assembly. Set it aside for now


Completed engine


Landing Gear


Now the revised landing gear can be assembled.

The parts needed are:
  • Additional landing gear plates
  • New landing skid blocks/bolts
  • Optional KDE landing gear plates


First remove the standard landing gear plates from the donor model. If you are going to use the original landing gear plates, remove them as well


Removing landing gear

The stock landing gear uses doublers on the stop of the plates and some U shaped sliders on the bottom of each plate. These should be removed


Landing Gear removed

When done, here's what you have. You will need the two landing gear plates and related mount bolts only


Landing gear disassembled

The small doublers on the original landing gear will be replaced with the additional landing gear plates included in the Required parts list. They stack together as shown and assemble using the original mount bolts


Landing gear plates stacked

The conversion includes a new set of wider sliders for the bottom of the landing gear along with longer bolts. These assemble over the stacked landing gear plates and are bolted on using the included longer bolts. Use CA on the bolts. Note that the mount holes on the skid blocks are bigger on the outside just as with the original blocks


New Landing Gear parts

I'm using the reinforced KDE landing gear plates for this conversion. If you chose to do this, you'll need to drill two holes in the reinforcement bar on the bottom of each plate. This will be necessary to bolt on the lower motor plate mounts in a later step. These should be at least 2.6mm in diameter

KDE Landing Gear Plate Mods Required

Here you can see the completed landing gear which will be assembled to the new chassis in a later step


Completed landing gear


Main Drive Mount


Although this was delivered in the prototype assembled, it may or may not in the actual kit so we'll go through the assembly

These are all the parts required to assemble the main drive. They are all included in the conversion kit or are on the required parts list. You'll also need the drive belt from the donor model

The quality and finish on the parts is very nice and it all fits together as expected


Clutch Drive Mount Parts

BEFORE YOU BUILD THIS READ HERE: httpss://www.helifreak.com/showpost....&postcount=296

The clutch bell includes two flange bearings for the start shaft, the upper one is visible here. First drop the lower clutch bell bearing block over the clutch bell shaft and seat it against the bell. Note its orientation


Lower clutch support block installed

There is a spacer that slips over the shaft at this point and seats against the lower bearing


Thick Spacer installed

To account for minor variations in manufacturing tolerances, the kit includes shims. These will determine the position of the drive pulley so that the drive belt runs in the center of the rear pulley. It will require some trial and error to get the right number installed in the right position. These slip over the clutch bell shaft and are a tight fit but they can go below the bottom pulley flange or on top of the top pulley flange as needed.


Spacer shims positioned

Next the lower flange for the drive pulley is installed. The flange has a shoulder on one side this faces downwards against the previously installed shims


Lower Pulley Flange installed

Now the main drive pulley goes on the shaft. The shaft has a flat on it and the pulley has a set screw hole. Make sure to align these two so the set screw will mount against the shaft flat. The pulley is a very tight fit, you may want to heat the pulley with a heat gun or cool the clutch bell shaft to make this fit easier


Drive Pulley positioned

Now fix the pulley position using the included set screw against the flat on the shaft. Install with thread lock and tighten well


Pulley Set Screw

The upper flange for the pulley installs next, this time the shoulder will face upwards as shown


Pulley upper flange installed

Now the upper bearing block can fit over the clutch bell shaft. Seat it against the upper main pulley flange


Upper mount block positioned

The clutch bell shaft is threaded so use the included nut to tighten this assembly together. Use thread lock on the nut and tighten so that the assembly fits snugly with no vertical play. You can in fact crank down on this because of the way the bearing stack is designed but its really not necessary.


Clutch bell retaining nut installed

The start shaft can be inserted as shown from inside the clutch bell. Set it against the bearing on the inside of the clutch bell

NOTE - there is a small brass spacer slipped over the shaft (found in the top start option kit). This spacer is required to be there for proper spacing.


Start shaft inserted

The other end of the start shaft has a flat on it, this should be exposed as shown on the top of the clutch bell stack


Starter shaft flat exposed

Install the starter coupler over the start shaft and make sure one of the set screw holes aligns over the flat on the start shaft. Tighten the two set screws with thread lock on the coupler so that one seats against the flat.


Starter coupler installed

Select the drive belt from the donor model as shown


Install drive belt

Slip the drive belt over the clutch bell and main drive pulley as shown


Drive Belt Installed

The side plates for this assembly will install as shown. All of the bolts are the same length except the two rear bolts on the upper bearing block. These are shorter so they can't hit and possibly damage the drive belt


Side plate mount layout

Install the left clutch block support plate as shown using thread lock


Left clutch block mount plate installed

Now install the right clutch block support plate as shown using thread lock


Right clutch block mount plate installed

At this point the clutch block assembly is complete and can be set aside for the next step


Clutch Drive System completed

This completes the sub assemblies for the conversion

Video Narrative


Next Step
Main Frame Assembly

Last edited by carey shurley; 12-24-2018 at 08:56 AM..
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Old 04-18-2013, 10:12 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Default Build Thread - Leviathan Goblin 700 Conversion - Main Frame Assembly

Main Frame Assembly

This step will build the conversion main frame assembly around the main drive plate from the donor model.

First we'll need to take a few more parts off the donor model

Prepare donor chassis

We've already removed the landing gear in an earlier step, here we'll strip the chassis down to the main drive plate


Goblin Donor Chassis

remove the tail boom and set it aside. note the belt orientation for reassembly in a later step


Tail Boom removed

remove the bolts/canopy mounts across the top of the side frames that secure them to the main drive plate. The frame assembly can be removed as a unit


Frames Removed

Disassemble the frames, we'll need these landing gear plates, pinion guard and frame spacers for the conversion. NOTE - If you use the KDE landing gear plates, you won't need the original ones


Parts needed from donor frames

Remove the motor plate from the main drive plate and then remove the mount studs. You may need to heat these to get them out


Motor Plate removed

that completes the prep for the main drive plate, so we can start the assembly process

Install Main Drive


take the motor plate studs previously removed and install them in the new upper bearing plate on the main drive assembly as shown. Thread them until they are flush with the bottom of the block and use green or red thread lock. let it dry before proceeding


Install main drive plate studs

The conversion has NOT been designed to use the belt tension springs but for you to instead set the belt tension. If you want to use the springs, pilot holes have been put into place, you can drill them to 3.2mm and then drop the two belt tension springs into their holes on the new upper bearing plate as shown


Install tension springs

Now insert the new drive assembly into the main drive plate EXACTLY as you would the original motor plate. Because the belt has to be preinstalled on the main drive assembly, it will not fit over the main pulley just yet


Insert main drive assembly into chassis plate

push the main drive assembly inwards towards the mainshaft until you can thread the main drive belt over the main drive pulley as shown


Belt threaded onto main drive pulley

on the top of the main drive assembly install the washers and locknuts if you haven't already and make sure they are sitting as shown


Note position of drive mount nuts/washers

The drive belt needs to be relatively tight. A good indication is to ensure that the main drive assembly interfaces with the main drive plate as shown. You can achieve this by just pulling on the main drive assembly while pushing against the main drive assembly, its not that hard to do


Set Belt Tension

while holding the belt tense, tighten the two locknuts that retain the main drive assembly. Make sure they are tight!


Tighten drive mount nuts

Remember back when we put the main drive assembly I talked about some shims that can go under or above the drive pulley? They can be used to position the main drive pulley slightly higher or lower. The reason for that is to ensure that the drive belt rides in the proper place on the main drive pulley

The belt should be flush with the top or bottom of the main drive pulley or centered on it but it should NOT "hang off" the top or bottom of the pulley or rub on anything.

If the belt doesn't ride true on the main drive pulley, you'll need to remove the main drive assembly and reorder the pulley shims until the belt rides in the proper position


Ensure true belt runout

Here are the parts needed to build the conversion lower frames. Note you'll need the additional frame spacers from the required parts list


Conversion Frame parts

First we'll build the radio tray and pinion guard. Use the parts shown and assemble with thread lock


Conversion tray parts

here is the battery tray and pinion guard assembled- NOTE There is a running change to the radio tray, the holes are not countersunk. I would suggest using 3mm button head bolts on this


Trays assembled

now the tank isolators can be installed. Select the two rubber isolators and cut them to the proper length which will be approximately 335mm. Cut it a little longer and you can trim it as you install it


Tank isolators cut to size

Start installing the isolators on the bottom of the frame as shown


Start tank isolator install here

you'll need to work the rubber isolators around the tank cutouts. I used a heat gun to help soften the rubber. The isolators don't have to fit perfectly


Tank isolators installed

now install the two frame doublers to the lower outside portion of each frame using the M3 x 8 button head bolts


Frame doublers installed

a washer and locknut secure these on the frame inside


Frame doubler lock nuts

install the remaining frame spacers in the holes shown. Use an M3 x 12 bolt through the frame doubler. The other bolt is an M3 x 8. Use thread lock and tighten


Frame Spacers installed

here's where the battery tray goes. Note the tabs on the tray and the slots they install into on the inside of the left frame. Also note the orientation of the slot in the battery tray which is towards the rear of the model


Battery tray position

install the battery tray using M3 x 8 bolts and thread lock. These mount holes are slotted so you can make minor positioning changes


Battery tray installed

The tab on the pinion guard will be pushed through the rear slot on the battery tray


Pinion guard position

Bolt the pinion guard to the left frame using an M3 x 8 bolt and thread lock


Pinion guard installed

Select the fuel tank assembled earlier and place it on the left frame as shown. For now it will need to just sit in place


Fuel tank positioned

Select what was the original pinion guard from the donor model and install its tabs into the slots at the rear of the left frame, they are the ones just above the servo cutout


Rear frame tray installed

Now the right frame can be assembled to combine the frame halves. Position it as shown


Right frame position

Install the right frame using the bolts specifed on the frame bolt map in the initial build post in this thread. Don't tighten the bolts on the front of the frame as you'll need to spread them to install the upper plate shortly


Right frame installed

Once the frames are bolted together, the fuel tank is captured as shown


Fuel Tank installed

Select the upper frame plate from the original model that the main drive was installed earlier. Its going to install between the frame plates as shown. You'll need to slightly spread them for the bolts on the main drive plate to slip through


Upper plate positioned

once the upper plate is in place, use the original bolts/canopy mounts from the donor model to install. Fully tighten with thread lock. Also tighten the other bolts on the frame that were left loose previously to allow the main drive plate to slip between the frames


Upper plate installed

This completes the basic frame assembly

Video Narrative


Next Step
Install Motor
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Last edited by carey shurley; 12-24-2018 at 08:57 AM..
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Old 04-18-2013, 10:12 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Default Build Thread - Leviathan Goblin 700 Conversion - Install Motor

Motor Installation

The final new part needed to install the motor is the motor plate. Select the parts shown from the conversion kit as well as the landing gear assembly previously built


Motor plate parts

the two motor plate spacers are positioned on the landing gear blocks as shown. If you're using the stock landing gear plates, position the blocks as shown. If you're using the KDE landing gear plates, the motor plate spacers are slotted to allow them to slip over the reinforcement on the bottom of the plate


Motor plate spacer installed

Install the motor plate using the bolts specified on the frame bolt map in the first build step. Don't fully tighten these at this time. Set this aside for now


Motor plate installed

Select the motor previously prepared in an earlier step. Remove the four M5 bolts from the fan shroud on the bottom of the motor. You'll need these next

Also note you'll need the M3 x 8 and M3 x 12 bolts from the conversion as well as the large frame washers from the required parts list


Parts to install motor

The motor will drop into the motor plate previously attached to the landing gear as shown. Reinstall the four M5 bolts with thread lock and fully tighten the motor to the motor plate


Motor Installed - bottom view

At this point the motor is read to install into the frames. Note the exact position of the clutch shoes, they will need to be in this position to fit into the upper frames


Motor installed - side view

Before installing the motor, depending on where you installed your fuel inlet you may want to install the fuel inlet tubing to simplify its installation. For this fuel inlet fitting position, the correct length of the tubing is 6"


Fuel inlet line optional install

The previously assembled upper frames will mate to the motor assembly as shown


Upper/Lower frame mate positioning

install the motor to the upper frames. Use the bolts specified in the bolt map in the original build thread post. Don't fully tighten any of the mount bolts just yet


Motor installed - Right view

Here you can see the chassis from a left view


Motor installed - Left view

This completes the basic motor installation

Video Narrative


Next Step
Complete electronics

Last edited by carey shurley; 12-24-2018 at 08:58 AM..
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Old 04-18-2013, 10:12 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Default Build Thread - Leviathan Goblin 700 Conversion - Complete Electronics

Complete Electronics Installation


In this step we'll complete the electronics install. There is a bit more to install than on the std Goblin, a battery is needed to power the on board systems and an additional servo is needed for the throttle control

Also need to build a power transfer cable to get the power from the front of the model to the electronics in the back of the model

Finally I've included an optional electronic component, the Stator Gator. If you're not familiar with it, its a simple device that makes it easy to read the ignition pulse from the engine and send it to a governor if you're using one of the compatible versions.


Components to complete electronics install

First I'm gonna hook up the Stator Gator, it replaces the kill switch on the RC motor so first its removed


SG - Remove kill switch

connect the SG sensor according to its instructions


SG - sensor connected

once completed the SG sensor pickup is barely noticeable


SG - sensor installed

Install the throttle servo as shown. Note that it installs from the inside of the frame. You can just use Align servo nuts/plates/screws it isn't critical. This needs to connect to your governor/Rx

Install the push rod from the required parts, the approximate length of this is 94mm from link center to link center. That will vary a little depending on your servo or whether you are running differential setups.




The on board battery goes onto the battery tray on the front of the model. Make sure its well secured with velcro or other retainers


Battery installed

Since the battery is in the front of the model and the Rx/FBL system installs in the rear of the model its required to create a cable to transfer the power. The exact length of this will depend on your setup and how you like wire your model. Its important to make sure it can't get into any of the drive train


Power extension cable

As noted earlier, there is a lot of wiring to put into a very small place. Since I'm including telemetry as well it add some wiring as well. Because of the way the Goblin canopy is shaped there is room in the open space behind the radio area to let the wiring expand but still be captured by the canopy. Here's the left view of my wiring


Wiring completed - left

and here's what it looks like from the right side of the model. The FBL sensor is underneath the main frame tray. Note that I've used clips on EVERY connector related to the control system. This will account for any additional vibration


Wiring completed - right

There is some room inside the frames from some of the wiring as well, here you can see what I've put there. This needs to be kept away from the drive belt. You can also see the Stator Gator sensor installed on the cross plate just below the throttle servo


Wiring completed - inside

Once all the other wiring is done, put the tail boom back on. This installs just like it did on the donor model. No modifications are involved


Tail boom installed

once the tail boom is installed then connect the T/R servo. Once again I used a clip to ensure the servo doesnt' get disconnected


T/R servo connected

With the electronics installed, its time to finish the model!

Video Narrative


Next Step
Complete Model
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Old 04-18-2013, 10:12 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Default Build Thread - Leviathan Goblin 700 Conversion - Complete Model

Complete Chassis


Just a few more parts needed to finish the model

You'll need a muffler of some sort. New Zenoah RC motors come with a steel canister muffler but its quite loud. There are a number of mufflers on the market that work well. I'm using the Hatori SAB-12R2

You'll also need some fuel tubing to complete the plumbing as well as make a tank vent

Finally you need the main blades


Parts to complete model

I'm using the Hatori SAB12-R2, this is a two piece muffler that uses the Hatori soft mount system. With this muffler first you install its mount on the motor


Install Hatori muffler mount

And then you install the muffler. This muffler is VERY quiet and at 12oz is one of the lightest mufflers available.


Hatori muffler installed

Remember back in the pre-assembly we installed a tank vent and overflow fitting. Time to plumb those. I'm going to use a coiled tube as a vent. This simply routes to the bottom of the model. The overflow routes back to the carburetor


Complete tank plumbing

The overflow tube from the tank goes to the primer fitting on the carburetor. By using the coiled vent we can just put a T fitting in the primer return line and fill the tank from there. You can defuel from it though


Complete carburetor plumbing

Complete Canopy


The 700 Standard canopy requires some modifications to fit the model properly. Its necessary to:
  • cut frame clearance slots on the bottom
  • cut throttle servo clearance on the left
  • cut air deflector clearance on the right

IF YOU ARE CONVERTING A 630, 700 Competition or 770 you will need to re-evaluate these changes

Here's how to measure for the cuts on the bottom

[I]Canopy cutouts - bottom/I]

After the canopy bottom is cut, you can fit the canopy and find the locations for the remaining cutouts if you want or just use these directions

here is how to find the location for the throttle servo cutout on the left side of the canopy


Location for throttle servo cutout

and here is its shape


Shape for throttle servo cutout

here is how to locate the cutout for the heat deflector on the right side of the canopy


Location for heat deflector cutout

and here is its shape


Shape for heat deflector cutout

Here I've marked my canopy bottom to be cut


Canopy bottom marked

here is the left side marked


Canopy Left Marked

and the right side marked


Canopy right marked

Complete Model

Once the canopy has been cut, its ready to install on the model. It installs in the same way as it did on the original donor model


Canopy Installed

Install the main blades of your choice


Main blades installed

AND, the model is completed and ready for setup


Model completed

I'm not going to go into detail about how to set up the model as there is a lot of personal preference here. Next will be a summary of the model

Video Narrative



Next Step

Model Summary
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Old 04-18-2013, 10:12 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Default Build Thread - Leviathan Goblin 700 Conversion - Summary

Overview

Here are a few photos of the completed conversion




































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Old 04-18-2013, 10:13 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Default Flying

Here are a few flying photos














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Old 04-18-2013, 10:13 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Default Gas Goblin Flies

The gas goblin flies!

thanks to Jordan Martin

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Old 05-08-2013, 06:52 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Added video for pre-assembly step
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Old 05-08-2013, 07:22 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Default

I have a question. Are the side frames predrilled for generator use? And are the stock landing skids tall enough for the pull starter?

This design is very nice.

Thanks.

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Old 05-08-2013, 10:52 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Hey Suat, it still requires the "generator platform" to be installed, as the side frames on the model don't extend above the main "plate". The top bearing mount is drilled and tapped so its setup for a generator install. Since I don't currently use any generator system I don't know exactly how it would mount here.

but other than that its just like the Whiplash, flip the OWB in the starter yoke and use the start shaft to connect the generator driver adapter.

In terms of pull start clearance I'll have to measure the actual distance but its at least as good as the whiplash with the tuff-strut package installed.
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Old 05-08-2013, 10:59 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Default Technically speaking

Pull starter clearance is not "necessary". Even if the model sits with the starter bottom on the ground, you can make it removable and just take if off after the 1 to 2 pulls to start the engine.

-=>Raja.
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Old 05-08-2013, 08:12 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Hey Guys,

Should be plenty of clearance for pull start, see attached ; )

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Old 05-10-2013, 05:42 AM   #15 (permalink)
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What an awesome build! Glad I wandered over here from the "normal" SAB forum!
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:11 AM   #16 (permalink)
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tell your friends in the other forums. The next couple of steps are gonna be pretty interesting
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Old 05-15-2013, 10:03 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Default Goblin gasser

How do I become a beta tester? Awesome build!
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Old 05-16-2013, 06:15 AM   #18 (permalink)
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added video for engine installation
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Old 05-17-2013, 10:22 PM   #19 (permalink)
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added video for frame assembly
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Old 05-19-2013, 04:23 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Default 700

Hi Carey, Nice job on the build as always. When will you have a vid of it flying and do they have a price on the kit yet? like to build one. Keep up the good work.
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