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Old 09-19-2013, 12:03 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Rick,

Will you be bringing any of those to the HeliFreak Fun Fly?

If so, I would like to by one from you, sir.
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Old 09-19-2013, 06:54 AM   #22 (permalink)
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THANKS! Great video. If you don't mind, I would like to link to that from my website because I often get asked exactly how does it work and that shows it perfectly! Glad you like the tool!

Rick
No problem Rick! Don't mind at all..
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Old 09-20-2013, 12:45 AM   #23 (permalink)
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THANKS! Great video. If you don't mind, I would like to link to that from my website because I often get asked exactly how does it work and that shows it perfectly! Glad you like the tool!

Rick

I have to get me one of this !!!!!!!!! I have used his old style leveler and the zero pitch tool on both my 450 and 300 and it makes life simple.

Good job !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 09-20-2013, 02:12 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Got this tool a few days ago just to find out that my eyeball leveling was just a few clicks off :p

But it works great
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Old 09-20-2013, 09:34 AM   #25 (permalink)
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This tool is simply genius!

Scott
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Old 12-27-2013, 01:26 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Rick,

Will you be bringing any of those to the HeliFreak Fun Fly?

If so, I would like to by one from you, sir.
Richard, sorry I didn't see this earlier. I wasn't able to make it to the HF FF this year but I was there in spirit. I enjoyed meeting you last year. If you are still interested, I will send you a freebie. What size did you want?

Rick
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Old 12-28-2013, 09:15 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Rick I like the idea! I do have a question though. It has always been my thinking that the swash needs to be checked at three points, bottom , mid , and top. My reasoning is because of travel of each servo being independent of one another.Starting at mid stick 50% each servo could be equal, but as they travel upwards they could become unequal at the endpoint, thus some minor adjustment would be needed there to level the swash at that point , conversely, the same could be said for the low end (bottom end of travel. With the head unit on, how can this tool affect these two upper and lower end adjustments if the swash moves upwards and closes the distance between the plate and head block?
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Old 12-28-2013, 12:46 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Rick I like the idea! I do have a question though. It has always been my thinking that the swash needs to be checked at three points, bottom , mid , and top. My reasoning is because of travel of each servo being independent of one another.Starting at mid stick 50% each servo could be equal, but as they travel upwards they could become unequal at the endpoint, thus some minor adjustment would be needed there to level the swash at that point , conversely, the same could be said for the low end (bottom end of travel. With the head unit on, how can this tool affect these two upper and lower end adjustments if the swash moves upwards and closes the distance between the plate and head block?
I agree. On bigger helis, there is usually room so you can slide it where you want for top, mid, and bottom measurements. On smaller helis, you can usually pop it on above or below the swash.
Rick
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Old 12-28-2013, 10:05 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Thanks Rick! Im on the hunt for one of these now
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Old 02-16-2014, 05:57 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Rick Lohr, Rush owner and owner of RDLohr's Clearly Superior Products sent me his latest tool to look over: the Swash Leveling Zip Tool.

Many of you have used Rick's products over the years like me and have come to think of Rick as a savior. His low-cost, highly innovative products have been a staple of my tool box for years. The Swash Leveling Zip Tool does not disappoint!

Its beauty is in its simplicity. Many of us have used a zip tie to level a swash plate in a pinch. Rick's tool takes the place of a zip tie and it's adjustable for various swash types. It also comes in many different sizes for those of us with many different sized helicopters. Size is determined by the diameter of the main shaft. Since the Rush has a 12mm main shaft, Rick sent the 12mm version.



This is the tool! It's deceptively simple. It's one-piece with a screw! Note the different drilled holes. The holes are used to align the screw with different swash plates. The large end of the tool is a C-clip. It literally snaps on to the main shaft.



For the Rush, I used the third hole from the C-Clip end. At first I tried to use the tool with the screw screwed all the way in. I found the screw end would only make partial contact with the swash, so Rick suggested I flip the screw over--it worked perfectly!



Next, disengage your pinion from the main gear, turn on your transmitter, then your helicopter electronics.

For a quick check at the field, all you need to do is set your transmitter pitch curve for 50in/out. This should give you zero pitch and a level swash. For a full setup, follow your FBL unit's manual. This tool is great for both!



Since the elevator link on the Rush 750 is used as a guide for leveling the swash, snap the tool on the main shaft and slide it down the main shaft until the head of the screw comes in contact with the elevator ball link mount.



To check to see if the other link mounts are level, just turn the head! The tool will move with the main shaft.



If your swash is not level, this is what you will see. Looks like a link needs to be adjusted!

Rick's tool is brilliant! It makes quick field checks and full setups a breeze. Remember, Rick's tool is available in various sizes for your other helicopters! Check it out at www.rdlohr.com!

Thanks Rick! You've got a winner here!

Scott

PS. The swash is not at 50in/out in these pictures I know.

This is very cool way to square up your swash. I ended up using my own version of Ron Lunds Laser tool to do the same job but this method looks simpler, and doing the laser thing in the field isn't likely to work out for you.

My reason for replying here? The term "Leveling Your Swash". This term helped to keep me confused as to what to do with your swash for a long time. I can see from many posts that it's helping to create the same confusion for others as well.

The only way actually leveling the swash would help you is if you also actually got your main shaft "Plumb" as well. Level is a term most folks think of when it comes to using a bubble level. Making your swash level is not going to get you what you think your getting. Unless of course your main shaft is exactly plumb. That would entail your landing gear being perfectly perpendicular at 2, 90 degree intervals to the main shaft.

"What the hell is he talking about?" you're wondering. Not much really except that until your only real concern is making your main shaft perpendicular (square) to your swash in 2 orientations 90 degrees apart you may be disappointed with your results.

Granted most folks are working on a faily level surface and most helis are within a degree or two of having their main shafts square to that surface so using "Level" should get you within a few degrees of getting it right.

If you're like me and a lot of others I speak to, you'd like to get things as close to perfect as possible. In my opinion using the above quoted tool/process is a very good way to make that happen. The other is to use the standard tool you've all seen which is the three "pronged" tool that slides down over your main that you bring your ball joints in line with. The only drag about the latter is that you have to take off the head to use it.

I Googled, "What's the most accurate way to level a swash plate" and the first site that came up was Ron Lund's. He's got a laser tool that looks pretty cool. I ended up only for reasons of speed buying a cheapy laser pointer and then just used some wood shims and plastic packaging to Jerry rig a laser pointer holder that worked. I will eventually make something like what Ron Lund is selling but my method worked very well.

The great thing about it is that because your using walls maybe several feet from your heli your degree of accuracy just goes through the roof. And like many things once you've done it once or twice it's very easy. I can not think of another way the average hobbyist could get his swash squared up to the main shaft so accurately.

I don't much care for running advertising for anyone but you can use the following to do it with your own set-up as I did. If you buy Ron's stuff I can't see you being disappointed though. Go to Ron's site http://www.ronlund.com/rcheli-prod/TOOLSE/LPGV2.html This site has 2 videos that work well to describe how to do this.

What made me realize that I'm not the only person out there that's been thrown off a bit by the term "leveling" is that I saw several comments about these videos like, "Yeah, but your table will have to be dead level and then your floor and then your heli skids before you can make this work."

There were others that hinged on the fact these folks didn't understand that "Leveling" the swash is not what you really need to do.

Finally, I just did a good deal of hover testing after using Ron's method on my first ground up heli build. A Trex 450 pro with 3GX and a DX6i. I was extremely pleased with my results. I spooled up many times and hovered without a hint that the heli was going to tip over. Landing was the same. Nothing unexpected.

The only part of the videos mentioned here that I didn't bother with was setting the pitch travel at 13 degrees and the elevator and aileron settings of 8 degrees using the laser. Because I wanted speed and simplicity I went another route. Because I already had purchased a digital pitch guage I thought my method would be a quicker, easier, and still very accurate.

I simply took the pitch to zero degrees (Mid-stick) and set my digital guage to zero while attached to one of the blades of course. Because I zeroed the guage at my radio's zero degree setting I knew I'd be able to easily set the 8 and 13 degree pitches with ease. I then followed the 3gx instructions for pitch, aileron, and elevator settings and I was done in under five minutes.

There's nothing wrong at all with Ron's approach. In fact it is probably the most accurate way possible to make these settings. I just wanted to do it with a tool I already had and didn't wish to complicate things for myself.

Lastly I do wish to Thank Ron Lund for showing me through his videos how to square up the swash plate. Untill Rons video's and actually doing it once, I didn't really understand what I needed to do regarding swash set-up.

Yikes that first build is rough. Or at least it was for me. I sure hope at least one person finds this helpful in some way.

Remember, unless your main shaft is plumb, your swash doesn't need to be level. But, your swash does need to be perpendicular to your swash. And, on two planes at least 90 degrees apart. It's very possible to have your swash perp. to the main shaft from one orientation and off a lot in another.

That last statement may have served to make things worse. Hmmm, how can I explain that?

Lets say you're standing on a perfectly level concrete slab.(Think swash plate) Directly in front of you is a pole sunk into the concrete. (Think main shaft) While looking directly at that pole you hold up a large framing square to the right and left side of that pole. You find that it is square on both sides of the pole. Perfect correct? Nope, or, should I say, maybe not.

Now, walk around that pole either ClockWise or CounterClock wise until you're 90 degrees from where you were just standing. Now look straigt on at that pole sunk in the concrete. Well this time the pole is terribly out of square on the right. (It's leaning towards the left with the square touching at the bottom but way off at the top) It's equally out of square on the left (now touching at the top and way off at the bottom.

However, if you walk back to where you just were when both sides were square you will find that both sides are still perfectly square. The pole hasn't moved, but your perspective has, by 90 degrees.

In other words you floor (think of the swash) is SQUARE with the pole (think of the main shaft) on one plane but not any other. That is because the pole is not plumb. If it was plumb it would be square on every plane.

The above couple of paragraphs were just to try and explain why I say your swash needs to be perpendicular or square to the main shaft on two planes 90 degrees apart. If the shaft is plumb to the swash it will square at every conceivable plane. If it's not plumb, it will only be square at two planes, 180 degrees apart.
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Old 02-16-2014, 06:54 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Wow! Thanks for writing all that!

I think the easiest way to explain this is to say that the base of the swash is perpendicular to the main shaff at the three servo or bell crank to connecting points.

Scott
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Old 02-16-2014, 07:14 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Wow! Thanks for writing all that!

I think the easiest way to explain this is to say that the base of the swash is perpendicular to the main shaff at the three servo or bell crank to connecting points.

Scott
Exactly. It's leveling the swash to be perpendicular to the main shaft in all planes. I can see now how that could cause confusion, especially when people start adding bubble levels to the mix and start measuring with respect to other surfaces. Nothing but the main shaft matters so if you measure with respect to that you are done.

Rick
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Old 02-16-2014, 07:32 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Rick i use this tool all the time to check things and it makes it sooooooo damn easy. love it. i actually need one for my smaller birds. i need to get the size of the mainshafts to send to you.
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Old 02-16-2014, 07:36 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Rick i use this tool all the time to check things and it makes it sooooooo damn easy. love it. i actually need one for my smaller birds. i need to get the size of the mainshafts to send to you.
I love hearing that. I see people making it so complicated and I just scratch my head.

PM me or email me and I'll fix you up!
Rick
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Old 02-23-2014, 06:03 AM   #35 (permalink)
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It confuses many when some cant understand checking leveling at center stick, full negative and full positive.

This is a great tool to have in the field as you can regularly check swash interaction without removing the main rotor hub.

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
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Old 02-23-2014, 07:59 PM   #36 (permalink)
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It confuses many when some cant understand checking leveling at center stick, full negative and full positive.

This is a great tool to have in the field as you can regularly check swash interaction without removing the main rotor hub.

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
Exactly. Its my goal to get one in every field box!

Rick
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Old 02-24-2014, 05:14 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Mine arrived today! Looking forward to using it and the 90 degree servo tools that came with it.
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Old 02-24-2014, 05:16 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Mine arrived today! Looking forward to using it and the 90 degree servo tools that came with it.


Rick
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Old 02-24-2014, 09:06 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Rick, i got mine also the other day. now i have them for my 700's and smaller heli's. to not have to remove the head to level the swash is the best thing. great tool Rick.
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Old 02-24-2014, 09:08 PM   #40 (permalink)
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