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Mini CP Walkera Mini CP Helicopter Support


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Old 02-25-2014, 03:39 AM   #21 (permalink)
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So little is known about this new receiver that I cannot honestly tell you whether this drift is normal for it or not. I hope that you have not been flying until the battery runs out. This is very bad for lipos and could damage them. I would not run your batteries to below one third capacity. It is also possible that your head speed is not high enough for the gyro to work properly. It could be that your throttle and pitch settings are wrong. If you have had 100 flights, then it is probably time to replace your motor anyway. I would also get a new battery. Ideally, you should get somebody experienced to check it for you.

Unless you have got a large indoor area, it is generally not a good idea to fly a CP indoors. It is because they move much more quickly and their higher head speed could cause much more damage to your furniture. For nose-in hover training, it may be a good idea to get a SIM or a simple FP like the WL toys V911 or Blade mSR. The discontinued mCPX is easier to fly but you will need to do a few simple mods to prevent tail blowouts. The nano CPX is harder to fly but its smaller form means that it is likely to cause less damage indoors. Also, you are more likely to get local help.
The lowest I run the lipos down to is 3.3v under load which translates to 3.7v with no load. I have it set up in the Rx and everything to alarm at 3.4v. I let them cool before i put them on charge as well. I don't think the motor is bad yet... I haven't noticed any performance decrease or anything of that sort. I've also taken good care of the motor. I give it time to cool between flights and I haven't let it go much over 60c.

I understand I shouldn't really fly indoors. Outdoors isn't an option right now as it has been far too windy lately plus snow. I just practice my hovers indoors for the most part, basically getting a feel for it. I can't do ff or circuits etc in such a small space obviously, but I am not at that point yet anyway. So far its worked for me. I've learned to keep the heli under control in a tight space pretty darn quick. I haven't crashed in quite some time (knock on wood). I also have my gains, travel, etc pretty tamed down. I use the beginner template for deviation. So that helps significantly. I have to actually try to get the helicopter to move fast.

Just to clarify this issue was present before deviation. I actually installed deviation to see if it would fix it. I was planning to anyway for the protocol support. I actually bought the kit with the 7e specifically for deviation, so I don't have to keep buying transmitters.

How much smaller is the nano cpx compared to the mini cp? I may get one if it will be better suited indoors as I don't think outdoors will be very possible at all for the small ones. I live across the street from a massive field. Its nice cause I'll have a place to fly the larger helis when I get there, but it also makes it pretty windy near me. Gusts are a major issue really. I can keep the mini cp under control in a 5-10mph breeze without fighting it too much. Gusts make it almost impossible to really fly it though.

As far as head speed I don't think that's the issue. It still does this in idle up.

BTW I timed it a moment ago and got 6 minutes hovering in normal (not idle up) mode without telemetry. I got 6 minutes with telemetry (both temp and voltage) enabled as well. I used the same battery for both flights.

I appreciate all the help you guys have provided btw. Even though I haven't fixed the issue, I've still picked up some tips from this that will help in the future. I did a lot of research before I even bought the heli (as I usually do) so I skipped a lot of the common errors people make. Over discharging batteries, etc. Hell I'm pretty certain I spend more time reading about this hobby than I do actually flying lol.

I guess I shouldn't really be that irritated about the issue. I bought an mgt 8.0 a while back used and it had a ton of issues. Total of $450 invested in it so far including purchase price and the transmission is still screwed up with no real indication why. I could have bought one new for $500. Thats the hobby shops fault though. They said the clutch was the only problem. And like an idiot I believed them. It was sold as-is so no refund. The motor won't hold a tune either. That or my tuning skills just suck. I got my jato 3.3 tuned though so I'm pretty sure its a bad motor. Needless to say the lhs no longer sees my business. At least I got a good tx and somewhat working heli out of this deal lol.
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Old 02-26-2014, 01:54 AM   #22 (permalink)
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The lowest I run the lipos down to is 3.3v under load which translates to 3.7v with no load. I have it set up in the Rx and everything to alarm at 3.4v. I let them cool before i put them on charge as well. I don't think the motor is bad yet... I haven't noticed any performance decrease or anything of that sort. I've also taken good care of the motor. I give it time to cool between flights and I haven't let it go much over 60c.

I understand I shouldn't really fly indoors. Outdoors isn't an option right now as it has been far too windy lately plus snow. I just practice my hovers indoors for the most part, basically getting a feel for it. I can't do ff or circuits etc in such a small space obviously, but I am not at that point yet anyway. So far its worked for me. I've learned to keep the heli under control in a tight space pretty darn quick. I haven't crashed in quite some time (knock on wood). I also have my gains, travel, etc pretty tamed down. I use the beginner template for deviation. So that helps significantly. I have to actually try to get the helicopter to move fast.

Just to clarify this issue was present before deviation. I actually installed deviation to see if it would fix it. I was planning to anyway for the protocol support. I actually bought the kit with the 7e specifically for deviation, so I don't have to keep buying transmitters.

How much smaller is the nano cpx compared to the mini cp? I may get one if it will be better suited indoors as I don't think outdoors will be very possible at all for the small ones. I live across the street from a massive field. Its nice cause I'll have a place to fly the larger helis when I get there, but it also makes it pretty windy near me. Gusts are a major issue really. I can keep the mini cp under control in a 5-10mph breeze without fighting it too much. Gusts make it almost impossible to really fly it though.

As far as head speed I don't think that's the issue. It still does this in idle up.

BTW I timed it a moment ago and got 6 minutes hovering in normal (not idle up) mode without telemetry. I got 6 minutes with telemetry (both temp and voltage) enabled as well. I used the same battery for both flights.

I appreciate all the help you guys have provided btw. Even though I haven't fixed the issue, I've still picked up some tips from this that will help in the future. I did a lot of research before I even bought the heli (as I usually do) so I skipped a lot of the common errors people make. Over discharging batteries, etc. Hell I'm pretty certain I spend more time reading about this hobby than I do actually flying lol.

I guess I shouldn't really be that irritated about the issue. I bought an mgt 8.0 a while back used and it had a ton of issues. Total of $450 invested in it so far including purchase price and the transmission is still screwed up with no real indication why. I could have bought one new for $500. Thats the hobby shops fault though. They said the clutch was the only problem. And like an idiot I believed them. It was sold as-is so no refund. The motor won't hold a tune either. That or my tuning skills just suck. I got my jato 3.3 tuned though so I'm pretty sure its a bad motor. Needless to say the lhs no longer sees my business. At least I got a good tx and somewhat working heli out of this deal lol.
I would make sure that you have calibrated the sticks after installing Deviation.

The nano CPX is substantially smaller than the Super CP and therefore more crash resistant. You are also much less likely to get stripped servos. Some parts are flimsy but you are unlikely to have big crashes flying indoors. The feathering shaft is easily bent and can be re-bent by hand. The main complaints involve the motor and the board. The motor has a short lifespan but there is a brushless kit available. The board is easily damaged through cumulative crashes but HH will probably be willing to replace one or two boards. After that, you can get someone to fix it for around $25.

The nano CPX actually flies quite like the Super CP. It is harder to hover and to fly circuits. However, it is more 3D capable and therefore will take you further along. Because of its small size, it is highly affected by the wind.
Since you can already hover the Super CP, then the nano CPX may be a good idea. It will be less dangerous indoors and you can get local help much more easily than the Super CP. I am using the Devo 7e to fly the nano CPX. It is also worth getting a SIM if you do not have one already.
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Old 02-26-2014, 03:36 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Yeah I'd like to get a Sim, I have the PC to run it and everything, but I just can't justify putting the amount of money they want towards a sim. I could put a decent 250 clone kit together for the price they want. I know in the long run it will save me money, but that cost. I don't think I'll really be able to do 3D without practicing on a Sim first though, so at some point I probably will get one.

I'm thinking the ncpx may not really be what I want. Even if its half the size of a mini cp it still wouldn't make it that much easier to learn on indoors. I doubt I'd be able to do circuits with anything cp in the limited space I have. So maybe just stick with the mini for now and get a 250 put together later so I can fly outside and learn some new things.

I think orientations are the important thing and I can learn those inside on the mini just fine. Just have to rebind the thing constantly. Once I have the orientations down circuits etc seem like they will sort of come naturally.

I'm thinking the v120d02s v2 is my best bet for a better indoor heli. Its a bit larger but it will still work indoors and handle wind a tiny bit better. And bl with TT tail means the motor will last longer. Upgrading a nano or mini cp to bl I still feel like the tail motor will fail regularly. And dual bl doesn't really seem to work all that well with these little guys. Gears are cheaper than motors in the case of the v120. Plus there's the slipper clutch mod.

As far as local help, I have no friends that are into hobby grade RC at all, let alone helis. I've yet to see someone flying in my general area and don't know of any clubs. There is a small airport (so small the runway is dirt I think, prob couldn't land much more than a Cessna there) so maybe I'll have to ask them if they know of any clubs nearby. Just someone to buddy box would do wonders, especially with a larger heli.

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Old 02-26-2014, 11:05 AM   #24 (permalink)
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The V120D02S is much bigger and more powerful than the Mini CP. It is really unsuitable for flying indoors. It is also much less durable and difficult to maintain. If you are looking for a bigger and more stable heli, I would take a look at the Master CP instead. It is exceptionally stable and very durable for its size as well. The only things you will need to replace are the stock servos with metal geared ones. It is also very easy to maintain.
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Old 02-26-2014, 02:26 PM   #25 (permalink)
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The V120D02S is much bigger and more powerful than the Mini CP. It is really unsuitable for flying indoors. It is also much less durable and difficult to maintain. If you are looking for a bigger and more stable heli, I would take a look at the Master CP instead. It is exceptionally stable and very durable for its size as well. The only things you will need to replace are the stock servos with metal geared ones. It is also very easy to maintain.
But the master cp has a motor driven tail and I've heard nothing but bad things about its ability to keep authority. Honestly if I go that big I may as well get a 250 clone kit and end up with something nice that I can upgrade with aftermarket parts etc. Are there any micros that have a TT or belt driven tail other than the v120?

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Old 02-26-2014, 09:18 PM   #26 (permalink)
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But the master cp has a motor driven tail and I've heard nothing but bad things about its ability to keep authority. Honestly if I go that big I may as well get a 250 clone kit and end up with something nice that I can upgrade with aftermarket parts etc. Are there any micros that have a TT or belt driven tail other than the v120?

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I have the Master CP and the tail is rock solid with mild 3D. I have a Trex 250 as well but that is much more complicated to build and set up and you could spend hours repairing a crash. In fact, I couldn't even get a couple of clone 250s to fly. The only alternative is the Blade 130X but that has a horrendous reputation with the tail although the rest of the heli is much durable than the V120D02S.
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Old 03-01-2014, 06:10 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Default ILL BET DOLLARS TO DOUGHNUTS!

After a crash mine is now dumping right too. Ive found that the microchip on the lower right corner is busted off. IS yours damaged?
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Old 03-01-2014, 08:18 PM   #28 (permalink)
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When looking at the chip from the front of the heli, the upper left and upper right corner are sort of rounded off. Its hard to explain, see photo. However it doesn't appear damaged, it looks like the board is just built this way. The lower right corner isn't damaged at all and the chip is fully intact.

My helicopter has exhibited these symptoms from day one flight one. I just thought it was normal at first due to my inexperience.



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Old 03-01-2014, 09:03 PM   #29 (permalink)
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I have the Master CP and the tail is rock solid with mild 3D. I have a Trex 250 as well but that is much more complicated to build and set up and you could spend hours repairing a crash. In fact, I couldn't even get a couple of clone 250s to fly. The only alternative is the Blade 130X but that has a horrendous reputation with the tail although the rest of the heli is much durable than the V120D02S.
How much does a 250 clone cost after everything is said and done and its ready to fly? I'm pretty mechanically inclined and don't mind building one from scratch at all, I actually quite enjoy building things. I build my own computers for example and haven't had issues with that. What would the price of a 450 clone cost in comparison? Would a 450 clone be in the same price range? Obviously a 450 is the better size, and neither will run inside at all so if the price of a 450 isn't too much more I'd just assume get that. I still want a decent indoor micro but I don't want a motor driven tail at all. They suck, that just seems to be how it goes.

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Old 03-01-2014, 11:51 PM   #30 (permalink)
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When looking at the chip from the front of the heli, the upper left and upper right corner are sort of rounded off. Its hard to explain, see photo. However it doesn't appear damaged, it looks like the board is just built this way. The lower right corner isn't damaged at all and the chip is fully intact.

My helicopter has exhibited these symptoms from day one flight one. I just thought it was normal at first due to my inexperience.



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Yeah the chip/board seem fine. Have you tried turning the gain screw up or down Try up first but only turn it 1/8 turn at a time.
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Old 03-02-2014, 03:57 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Yeah the chip/board seem fine. Have you tried turning the gain screw up or down Try up first but only turn it 1/8 turn at a time.
I have indeed. I actually did this to tame it down inside the house. At one point it was around 8-9 o clock. I've since moved it back to stock as its plenty stable and the heli gets really jittery and wants to shake anything past that. I've tried lower but only momentarily as I'm definitely not prepared to fly with the gain that low lol.

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Old 03-02-2014, 10:43 AM   #32 (permalink)
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The big problem with 250 clones is that you often have to replace a lot of parts with genuine Align parts before it can fly. Another problem is that people often put bad electronics into a clone heli which makes things worse. If you subtract the cost the the electronics from a Trex 250, you will find that the frame virtually costs the same as a clone. You will definitely want to have some local support if you want to build a 250.
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Old 03-02-2014, 11:13 AM   #33 (permalink)
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The big problem with 250 clones is that you often have to replace a lot of parts with genuine Align parts before it can fly. Another problem is that people often put bad electronics into a clone heli which makes things worse. If you subtract the cost the the electronics from a Trex 250, you will find that the frame virtually costs the same as a clone. You will definitely want to have some local support if you want to build a 250.
I see. I think with a camera, my engineering ability, and the help of these forums I can get around the local support issue. But I certainly don't want to buy a clone to save a few bucks and end up buying more parts in the end. That defeats the purpose really.

Does the same apply to 450 clones?

This probably isn't something I'll be doing for a few months as I don't want to plant a new 450 into the ground. Plus lipos don't work worth a damn in the cold so I'd pretty much have to wait a few months to fly it anyway. My mini cp gets about 2 minutes of flight outside vs 6 inside. So for now it'll most likely be minis for me. I'm just thinking towards the future.

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Old 03-03-2014, 05:41 AM   #34 (permalink)
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There are a few high quality 450 clones around such as Tarot and ALZRC. It is much easier to build and set up than a 250 because of its larger. However, it is much more dangerous as well.
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Old 03-03-2014, 12:52 PM   #35 (permalink)
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I got ahold of xheli. They're going to send me a new Rx and a canopy and skids as well because those were broken out of the package. Hopefully this isn't an issue with all the new receivers, and a new one will fix it. Now I patiently wait.

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Old 03-03-2014, 03:16 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Good deal glad to hear it.
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Old 03-04-2014, 12:10 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Now the busted blade grip is done. Crashed it again and it broke, now I can't get the superglue to hold right without using too much and screwing the weight balance up making it vibrate like crazy. >.> damn thing

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Old 03-07-2014, 10:19 AM   #38 (permalink)
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yes and bearing include in those clone kit are bad and last ten flights and some other part too. You will not save much money with hobbyking kit.

Super CP and Genius CP are really stable but Nano CPX drop to 99$ and they release a brushless kit for it 49$. Blade linear servo have different control stick feeling but holly good they didnt brake in crash!
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Old 03-07-2014, 10:28 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Now the busted blade grip is done. Crashed it again and it broke, now I can't get the superglue to hold right without using too much and screwing the weight balance up making it vibrate like crazy. >.> damn thing

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due to the motor mini cp doesn't have good flight time at all 4min is good. If you got 6min inside is because you hoovering and outside you fly

We fly all the winter on the lake sometime under 20 degres and we only reduce our timer of 1min. Even 1S micro battery keep their charge. And with the blizzard, some JR transmitter screen crystal just frost and the guys ad to stop flying and my Devo transmitter was full cover of snow, water many time without problem

You will lose money with clone kit, new Align DFC 250 bnf are 299$ and fly really well, they made a mistake and send me a battery and charger. Gyro, everything is include and the yellow 3gx is very stable!! Don't miss that deal I had all the 250 you can imagine over the years, flybar etc and these new version out of the box is better than any 250 have flow, and its look great also, you can recognize it the gyro is yellow/gold with satellitte you can bind it with JR, Futaba, Spektrum and Walkera i think
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Old 03-13-2014, 10:56 PM   #40 (permalink)
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So I got the new Rx, skids, and canopy from xheli. The new canopy and skids seem quite different from what came with my heli. Much stronger for sure. I'm guessing they're a later version than what shipped with the heli I got. Haven't been able to test the Rx yet to see if the issue is gone because I'm waiting on a new set of blade grips as I broke one of them in a crash. Hopefully I get the same results as I did with the skids and canopy. Also ordered some extra parts that should hopefully make this heli a little bit better for what I want to do with it.

2 x 3DPro 48mm Extended Tail Blade
1 x 3DPro Tail Set with Strengthened Tail Motor and 48mm Tail Blade
3 x 3DPro DuraBlade® Mini 110mm FBL 3D Performance Blades
1 x Main Motor

My motors still seem fine surprisingly after well over 100 flights but at $4 for a new main motor with sensor I grabbed one anyway. Also picked up a (supposedly) stronger tail motor with longer tail blades so hopefully this should help with tail authority. Grabbed a few sets of new main blades as well, as mine needed replacing anyway.

Also have a T-Rex 250 and a Blade SR that I traded my jato for recently. Managed to hover the blade sr but while tuning it up getting everything in order I noticed the tail doesn't want to spin sometimes so that's grounded as I don't want it smashing into the ground because the tail failed.

The 250 needs a few parts and its flybarred. I don't really feel confident flying it right yet as it has a TON of power compared to my mini cp and even the blade sr. Plus this snow storm with its wind has pretty much killed all hope of flying outside anytime soon.

Hopefully the mini cp will hold me over for a while and I can get the parts to fix the 250 up and convert it to fbl soon.

Now I just need to make it through the withdrawals until the slow boat gets here.

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