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200SRX Blade 200SRX Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 07-28-2014, 12:10 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Parts Replacement and "How To's" for the Blade 200 SRX

It will eventually happen to you if you own this bird as it seems to be rather fragile when it comes to taking a bump. I never had the type of issues with my Blade CX2 that I've had with this one. It seems like you can sneeze on this helicopter and something will need to be replaced. Hell, looking at it mean might cost you money! But I digress.

With this thread, I hope to help those of you who like me, had to replace a given part and had no clue how to do so. I have had to completely rebuild my bird so replacing parts is now something that I can do in my sleep. If you are smart, you will stock up on parts so that you will have no down time during the ownership of your bird. The parts I recommend are the following.
  • 6.0-Gram Super Sub-Micro S60 Servo (EFLRS60)
  • 3900Kv Brushless Motor: BSR (Main Motor - EFLH1516)
  • Complete Hardware Set: 200 SR X (You can never have too many extra screws laying around - BLH2026)
  • Tail Motor: 200 SR X (BLH2022)
  • Tail Rotor Blade Set (2), White: 200 SR X (They are pretty flimsy - BLH2021)
  • Tail Boom Support Set (2): 200 SR X (BLH2016)
  • Tail Boom w/ Tail Motor Wires: 200 SR X (These are REALLY flimsy - BLH2015)
  • Main Gear w/ Hardware (2): 200 SR X (Until you can fly like a pro, ALWAYS have some of these laying around - BLH2012)
  • Main Frame Set: 200 SR X (The frame can break suprisingly easy - BLH2009)
  • Horizontal Stabilizer/Fin Mount: 200 SR X (BLH2017)
  • Helicopter Dual Brushless ESC (BLH2024)

Those seem to be the parts that break the most. You can NEVER have too many servo's and main gears it seems. The main reason that I bought this helicopter was because of the abundance of parts available from Blade and similar companies. As of this posting, availability of parts has been the Achilles heel of this model. I have been able to find what I've needed but I think that I broke Google in doing so.

For those of you who may have lost your user manual, here's a link to the original manual in various languages. You will need Acrobat Reader to read this manual as it is a PDF document.

Now for the pictures. These will help you in disassembling your bird for repairs, as well as reassembly once you take it apart. The routing of wiring is important and the necessary stuff to remove for repairs is just as important. Overall, it's a very easy bird to take apart and put together as I have never done this before. I will say that I take Corvettes apart and put them back together so I'm good with my hands.


Necessary Tools

I bought these tool sets by Dynamite for working on my bird. From what I understand, you can repair most birds with this combination of tools alone.

Hex Kit ( the only thing I needed from this kit was the 1.5mm tool):





Screwdriver Set:





A pen-type flashlight, for seeing into the small holes and assisting with aligning screws. This really comes in handy.





A set of cutters and some needle nose pliers. You will also need some double-sided tape, 1" in width and plenty of small tie wraps (or zip ties as they are also called).


Here are some common repairs that you will find yourself doing. These are just the ones that I think would scare the novice owner. These repairs will require you to cut the tie wraps that hold certain wires in place. Pay special attention during the removal of these tie wraps so that you don't cut any wires! That could result in a very costly and unnecessary repair.


Tail Boom Replacement

1. Remove the canopy mount set screws from the anti-rotation bracket. They simply screw into the anti-rotation bracket (righty-tighty, lefty-loosey). The threaded shafts CAN be removed from the canopy mount set AND the anti-rotation bracket so if your shafts do not come out when you remove them from the anti-rotation bracket, be sure to remove them BEFORE trying to remove the anti-rotation bracket. The reason you want to remove the anti-rotation bracket is so that you don't crack it open when installing the tail boom. It also allows for a wider opening for the boom to be installed.





2. Disconnect the tail boom support from the tail boom.





3. Disconnect the tail case from the tail boom. When doing this, you will unplug the tail motor wires from the tail boom wires. They are connected using bullet connectors and simply pull apart. When reinstalling the tail case, you will reconnect the wires (they are color coded), and shove yjem back into the tail boom. Make SURE that you don't pull the connectors apart during reassembly.







4. Remove the 4, 1.5mm bolts from the helicopter frame.





5. Unplug the tail boom connector from the ESC (electronic speed control).





6. At this point, you will be able to gently pry the back end of the helicopter apart and remove the tail boom.

Re-installation is pretty much just a reverse of the dis-assembly, only plug the tail boom into the ESC as the last step. Another thing that you need to pay attention to is the orientation of the tail boom as you insert it into the chassis. See the pictures below for clarity:







7. Tie wrap your wires down, ensuring that you DO NOT pinch any wires. All of the wires that you tie wrap on this helicopter should be snug, but there should be enough slack where the wires WILL MOVE if tugged upon.




S60 Servo Replacement (Aileron)





1. Disconnect the pushrod from the swashplate. It just pops on and off, although it takes some effort.

2. Remove the screw(s) at the top and bottom of the servo. Your servo may or may not have 2 screws holding it in place depending on the design of the servo.





2. After freeing the wiring, unplug the servo connector from the transmitter. See the picture and diagram below for plug placement.










3. Push the servo through the frame from the back of the servo (the front is where the linkage arm is located). It is a very snug fit as you will find out when attempting to replace it. Be patient and wiggle it as necessary as you are working to remove and install these servos.





4. Remove the screw that holds the linkage arm onto the servo. The linkage arm can be easily removed at this time.





5. Now for the replacement. Place the linkage arm onto the new servo but DO NOT install the screw.

IMPORTANT: GENTLY, and I mean GENTLY move the linkage arm up and down. Notice the distance of travel that your linkage arm has. When the linkage arm is installed correctly, the distance of travel will be from about the 6 o'clock position to about the 12 o'clock position.

Although the servo will not move that far when in operation, positioning the linkage in the manner described above will cover the area of travel that your servo will need. Again, be GENTLE when handling the movement of these servos. They are as pansy as rose petals.

6. Once you have the arm traveling in the 6-12 o'clock position, install the screw that holds it onto the servo. At that point, install the servo into the helicopter. Be careful not to pinch any wiring. Plug the servo connector into the receiver (pins mark #2)





S60 Servo Replacement (Elevation)

Replacing the elevation servo is very similar to replacing the aileron servo. The major difference is that the linkage arm needs to travel from the 12 o'clock position to the 6 o'clock position and the connector plugs into a different slot in the receiver (position #3). The other major difference is the location of the push rods as in how they are connected to the linkage arms. Notice how the push rod is located on the INSIDE of the elevation linkage arm, but is located on the OUTSIDE of the aileron linkage arm. Don't mess that up!





Refer to the pictures on replacing the aileron servo for more clarity. One other small difference is that there is only one screw holding the elevation servo in place.








Replacing the Main Gear

Replacing the main gear is not as daunting as it looks, especially if you have the right tips. First off, you don't have to take the helicopter apart at all. It's basically one screw and that's it.

1. Find the screw that holds the main gear onto the shaft. Look at it and then look at the orientation of the rotor blades.





2. Remove the elevation and aileron pushrods from the swashplate. They will NOT come off very easy! They take a little coaxing.







3. Remove the 1.5mm bolt.


4. Here's the tricky part. You want to hold the main gear while gently lifting the main shaft upward. You only want to pull it out JUST ENOUGH to free the main gear.

NOTICE: If it is difficult for you to lift the main shaft upward, that means that your main shaft is bent and needs to be replaced (see directions further down in this document). If there are no problems with your main shaft, not only will it easily lift upward, but the main gear will easily come off the main shaft and the lower bearing will easily fall out of the bottom of the chassis.


5. Install the new gear, making sure that you orientate the blades in the manner necessary to align the holes on the shaft and the new main gear. Here's were having a pen light comes on handy as you can easily see the alignment with the assistance of that light. To make things easier, you may want to LOOSEN the 4 main motor bolts and allow the main motor to move freely as you install the main gear.

Important Tip!. The bolt that hold the main gear onto the shaft only goes in a SPECIFIC side of the main gear. See the picture below for clarity:





6. Insert the screw, tighten and you're done.






Replacing the Main Motor or ESC (Electronic Speed Control)

This repair is easier than it looks. I usually remove the main blades when I work on my bird because it makes working on it more manageable. One practice that I like to follow is to whenever possible, reinsert any screws that I remove back into the holes from where they were removed. This solves two issues. One, I don't lose the screws and two, I don't have to remember which screws go into any of the holes.





1. Unplug the bullet connectors that connect the main motor to the ESC. These connectors are VERY tight. Be careful not to put any unnecessary strain on the wires coming from the ESC. I used some needle nose pliers to unplug my main motor wires, which damaged them. I wasn't worried about that damage because the motor was already fried. DO NOT use pliers on wires that go to a working component.





2. Remove the tie wraps that hold the wires onto the chassis.





3. If you are replacing the ESC, you will also need to cut the tie wrap that holds the ESC wires to the skids. You will then unplug the ESC from the receiver. Reverse the process to install your new ESC. What I ended up doing was removing my skids and running the wires from the ESC under the skids so that I would not need a tie wrap to hold those wires in place or provide support for holding the ESC on the bird. See picture below.





Be sure to look at the chart that I provided earlier in this post, which describes the correct pin orientation to plug up the ESC to the receiver. Plugging the ESC up improperly could resort in damage to no telling what!





The ESC is held to the chassis with double-sided tape. I thought that was kinda cheesy but that type of assembly seems to be the norm with these smaller choppers. Tie wraps and double-sided tape must be like duct tape to these chopper manufactures.

Here's the double-sided tape you want to use with this chopper. The width is perfect and it works well enough to hold stuff in place but can be removed later if necessary. Don't reuse any of the original tape. There's no need to buy that kit that Horizon sells with the double-sided tape either when you can get an entire roll for cheap.







4. If you are replacing the main motor, you only need to pull the ESC down and out of the way to expose the opening to the main motor. Discard the double-sided tape that held the ESC in place.





5. Before performing the next step, gently turn the MAIN GEAR and get a feel for how tight it is against the main motor. The reason that you are doing this is because the main motor has a very slight amount of play that you can adjust when you reinstall it. You don't want to make that amount of play any more or less than it is. So get a feel for how tight the main gear is against the main motor before you remove it.

6. Remove the 4 screws and washers that hold the motor in place. Be careful NOT to loose the washers.





7. At this point, you can manipulate the main motor out of the chassis. When reinstalling it, remember the amount of tension that you felt when you rotated the main gear.

When tightening the screws to the motor, HAND TIGHTEN all 4 screws in place at first. After verifying the amount of tension that you want against the main gear, begin tightening the screws in a "X" formation. That is, tighten one screw on one side of the chassis and then tighten the screw that is diagonally opposite on the other side of the chassis. This ensures proper alignment of the motor to the main gear during the installation.

Reverse the dis-assembly and your new motor is now installed.






Helicopter Wants To Do a Hard Right/Left Bank or Hard Nose/Tail Stand on Lift Off

This was kinda annoying! Every time I tried to lift off, the helicopter would fall over on its side causing the wings to immediately strike the ground. I knew that this was a trimming issue but all the trim in North America wasn't resolving my issue. That's when I had a brain storm.

I set the helicopter up high where I could see what the aileron and the elevation servos where doing when the helicopter was initialized. After the helicopter finished doing all of its whiz-banging, I took a picture of the aileron. Look at what I saw. No wonder...





So here's what I did. I removed the screw that holds the linkage onto the aileron servo and rotated the linkage a few teeth CLOCKWISE. I then put the linkage back on the servo and initialized the chopper again. BINGO. Problem solved. Now I can trim it out the rest of the way as per the instructions in the controller manual.







The same process would work for a hard nose or tail stand as you would adjust the elevation linkage arm in the proper direction (clockwise or counter-clockwise depending on what the problem is).







Servo Information











Main Shaft Replacement

As a US Marine, one thing that I was drilled on was attention to detail. This is one of those repairs where attention to detail is critical. Since the information that I am about to cover cannot be found in the level of detail that I plan to cover it, I wonder how many of these birds are out there improperly assembled by folks who maybe missed some of these details. This is one repair where improper assembly is easy to do, especially if you rush it, don't pay attention during dis-assembly and you don't use an adequate amount of light to see the small details. My eyes are not what they were 35 years ago so I use a LOT of light to work on this bird. That light is what has helped me to see all the small important intricacies of how this bird is assembled. I will share that information with all who read this writeup.

When you buy a main shaft, it comes with the shaft, a collar and two (2) screws for the collar.





Two other important parts that accompany the main shaft are the two (2) bearings and the swashplate. If you successfully bend your shaft, NONE of these items will be EASY to remove. As a matter of fact, if any of these parts cannot be removed, toss them along with the shaft into the garbage. You can fight and tug at these parts all you want but the only thing that you will end up with is frustration and damaged parts. Here's what happened to my swashplate while trying to force it off the shaft.







Take it from someone who's been there, just buy some replacement parts. You'll thank me later.

To actually remove your shaft, do the following.

1. Remove the blades.

2. Remove the aileron servo. You don't have to disconnect it from the receiver, just remove it from the chassis and let it hang free.

3. Remove the following bolts and screws from the chassis:





At this point, you should be able to GENTLY pry open the chassis enough to remove the shaft. BE CAREFUL as the chassis is somewhat fragile. Once the shaft has been removed, you are now ready to assemble and install your new shaft.

IMPORTANT: Pay special attention while removing the hardware from your old shaft. There are screws that go in specific places and parts that have a specific orientation. I suggest working on a white table or background to make these parts easier to see or find if dropped.

The main rotor hub can be removed from the shaft by first, disconnecting the correct rotor head linkage and exposing the 1.5mm bolt.





At this point, you SHOULD be able to remove the swashplate. However, you will not be able to pull it offf from the top of the shaft if the shaft is too bent. If the two shaft bearing have not fallen off the bottom of the shaft, then those bearings, the swashplate and the shaft collar are all useless. You will need to replace all those parts unless you can find a way to cleanly cut the old shaft in half so that you can remove those parts. I haven't tried it yet but maybe a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel will do the trick.

4. Now it's time to build the new shaft. The first thing that you need to notice is that the shaft collar has two different sides. The beveled side goes against the top bearing and the flat side goes against the swashplate.





When you align the collar on the shaft, the screw holes on the collar should align with the indention's on the shaft.





5. At this point, you are ready to drop the swashplate onto the shaft and install the rotor hub. Pay attention to which side of the rotor hub that you install the bolt.





6. Last of all, install the shaft bearing and put everything back into the chassis. There are multiple was to attempt this so I will let you pick a way that works for you.





7. Install your chassis screws. Next, install the main gear (see the main gear installation notes for assistance).

That's pretty much it. If you didn't loose any screws and you remembered where all of them went, you're golden.







Wiring Pictures

These pictures are for those of you who take stuff apart and cannot remember how the wires were oriented. You're welcome in advance.











The only other major repair is replacing the body itself. I will do a writeup on that if folks deem it necessary. All of the other repairs are easy to figure out. Pay attention when changing the rear blades out. This tail rotor picture courtesy of Digital Don.



Finally, here is Horizon Hobby's Advanced Settings and Setup Guide, which only needs to be performed if you notice that the model is not returning to level consistently or if the model does not remain still during stationary pirouettes. The "trim flight procedure" is used to determine the optimal SAFE™ settings during flight. The trim flight procedure must be performed in calm conditions. Perform this procedure if the model is not performing well or has been recently rebuilt from a crash.



I may also do a servo internal gear replacement writeup but again, I will wait and see if there is a demand for it.

Well that's it folks. Let me know if you have any questions.
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Last edited by Junkman2008; 08-10-2014 at 03:02 PM.. Reason: Work in progress...
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Old 07-28-2014, 12:44 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Good detailed tutorial there!....I'm sure it'll be referred to time and again with great appreciation by many.

Thanks for taking the time and effort.
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Old 07-28-2014, 01:00 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Awesome write up and pics.
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Old 07-28-2014, 01:02 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Thank you very much for all your effort much appreciated

John
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Old 07-28-2014, 05:39 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Thank you gents.
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Old 07-28-2014, 07:20 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Great write-up!!!

Thanks for taking the time to do this.
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Old 07-28-2014, 12:15 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Default Servo Gear layout

THANK YOU Junkman2008 awesome post!!! Do you have any pictures showing the gear layout of the servos? I tired to rebuild one but I could not figure out the correct order of the gear placement when I was putting it back together. I got so frustrated that i just ordered an new complete servo. Any pics tips on servo gear replacement will be greatly appreciated.

R Gonsalves
Norwalk, CT
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Old 07-28-2014, 03:15 PM   #8 (permalink)
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This Should be a sticky please!!! Excellent work Junkman...guys like you are what keep me fascinated with this hobby...
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Old 07-28-2014, 04:19 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GONSALVR View Post
THANK YOU Junkman2008 awesome post!!! Do you have any pictures showing the gear layout of the servos? I tired to rebuild one but I could not figure out the correct order of the gear placement when I was putting it back together. I got so frustrated that i just ordered an new complete servo. Any pics tips on servo gear replacement will be greatly appreciated.

R Gonsalves
Norwalk, CT

I do! Since I just did it.



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Old 07-28-2014, 04:24 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Junkman - you rock!
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Old 07-29-2014, 03:36 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GONSALVR View Post
THANK YOU Junkman2008 awesome post!!! Do you have any pictures showing the gear layout of the servos? I tired to rebuild one but I could not figure out the correct order of the gear placement when I was putting it back together. I got so frustrated that i just ordered an new complete servo. Any pics tips on servo gear replacement will be greatly appreciated.

R Gonsalves
Norwalk, CT
The secret to replacing the gears is to lay the old ones out on the table in the order that they are removed. Then you take the new gears and match that layout on another spot of the table. After that, start stacking them into the servo. Works every time.



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Old 07-29-2014, 08:34 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Cool thank you Junkman. Very helpful indeed.

R. Gonsalves
Norwalk, CT
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Old 07-31-2014, 11:46 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Updated the original post with the instruction for replacing the main motor or ESC.
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Old 07-31-2014, 12:23 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Brilliant. Thanks for your efforts,one question I have got to replace main shaft is there a right way for it to be installed I see two indentations on my new shaft ,once again thanks for all your help

John
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Old 07-31-2014, 01:22 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by janerol View Post
Brilliant. Thanks for your efforts,one question I have got to replace main shaft is there a right way for it to be installed I see two indentations on my new shaft ,once again thanks for all your help

John
As much as I have crashed mine, I have yet to have to replace the shaft. However, if memory serves me well, it can only be put together one way. All you have to do is line up the holes. I believe that the two indentions that you speak of are where the two bearings go. I would need to see a picture of what you are talking about to be sure but I think that's what you are referring to.



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Old 07-31-2014, 02:49 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Thank you for your advice, actually there is nothing wrong with the shaft just the cheap plastic coller I have just ordered a blinged up version of the main shaft with metal coller hopefully that will tighten to the main shaft,once again thanks for your help

John
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Old 07-31-2014, 11:30 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Updated original post with information on resolving helicopter falling over upon take offs.
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Old 08-01-2014, 06:54 AM   #18 (permalink)
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HH needs to hire you for manual design and layout.
Great workJunkman! Very impressive. Detailed work like this will keep beginners from becoming frustrated and dropping out of the hobby.
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Old 08-01-2014, 07:14 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamesppp View Post
HH needs to hire you for manual design and layout.
Great workJunkman! Very impressive. Detailed work like this will keep beginners from becoming frustrated and dropping out of the hobby.
Thanks James.

I tried looking online for a service manual and found out that there is none so I figured that I would make one myself for the next guy who goes looking. Ain't nothing like finding the answer to your questions online. I was pretty frustrated with this bird after breaking so many parts. Something must have finally clicked because my last 4 times out went perfect with no crashes! I think I'm finally getting the hang of this, no thanks to that ever so mysterious "Safe Flight Technology" that seems to have missed getting in the box with my helicopter when it shipped.
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Old 08-02-2014, 06:00 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Junkman, excellent! Very helpfull
Thank you.
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