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200SRX Blade 200SRX Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 09-04-2014, 02:29 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Junkman's Full On Blade 200 SRX Rakon Heli Upgrade

Okay folks, for those of you thinking about making the move from blah to bling, here's you thread! I made the plunge into bling city after I figured out how to fly my bird without crashing it and if this is something you would like to do, I highly suggest that you get proficient with your bird FIRST before making this investment. After all, the price is not for the faint at heart and your wallet will love you for waiting. With that said, let's do this!

First, get your tools together. You will need a very small set of screwdrivers. I highly suggest the set sold by Dynamite.



You will also need a 1.5mm and a 2.0mm Hex driver, also made by Dynamite (pictured is the 4-piece set).



One very important purchase that you can make that will come in handy while working on your bird is a magnetic screw bowl, which can be found at any auto supply store. This little device makes keeping track of your screws MUCH more manageable. The one you see here has part of a fruit wedger inserted in it to keep the screws separated.



Another must have addition to your tool collection (especially given the size of the screws in this upgrade), is a grabber tool. Man, this thing is really handy for dealing with tiny screws in tight places. Your hobby shop should have them. A must have for us old and blind folks!







You will also need some zip ties, double-sided 3M tape, some tweezers, needle nose pliers and a bottle of Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242® (or equivalent). Thread locker is necessary to keep the screws from backing out during the operation of your bird. You can find it at any auto supply store. Loctite should be used on any screws that are inserted into any aluminum parts.



Your Rakon Heli kit will come with instructions but the drawings, although accurate and to scale may be a little challenging to some because we as men tend to NOT follow the instructions. We look at pictures and assume things and the next thing you know, we've done it it wrong. I speak from plenty of experience. Since I have already made all the mistakes that you will probably make, I am doing this writeup to not only show how the upgrade is done but to also keep folks from making any of the same mistakes that I made. I will also offer some personal tips that I found useful that are not in the instructions. First, let's cover the parts you will need to complete this upgrade (or at least do it the way I did).


Parts for the CNC Advanced Upgrade Kit - Blade 200SRX:

1 x Airbrush Fiberglass Canopy.
1 x (SKU: 200SRX007) CNC Hardened Steel Spindle Shaft Set
1 x (SKU: 200SRX010) CNC AL Main Rotor Hub Set
1 x (SKU: 200SRX030) CNC AL Main Blade Grips Set
1 x (SKU: 200SRX178) CNC AL Swashplate Set
1 x (SKU: 200SRX303) CNC Delrin 120T Main Gear w/AL Hub Set
1 x (SKU: 200SRX400) CNC Solid Carbon Main Shaft w/AL Collar Set
1 x (SKU: 200SRX452) CNC AL and CF Main Frame Set
1 x (SKU: 200SRX723) CNC CF Landing Skid Set
1 x (SKU: 200SRX799) CNC AL Canopy Mount Set
1 x (SKU: 200SRX802) Carbon Tube Tail Boom-Standard Length
1 x (SKU: 200SRX812) CNC AL Tail Boom Support Set
1 x (SKU: 200SRX816) CNC AL Horizontal Stabilizer Fin Mount Set
1 x (SKU: 200SRX854) CNC CF Tail Fin Set
1 x (SKU: 200SRX860) CNC AL Tail Motor Mount Set
1 x (SKU: 200SRX956) CNC AL Tail Propeller Adapter

(although NOT included with this kit, order the 13T pinion gear to replace the stock pinion gear on your main motor for BEST performance)

You can get the entire collection of parts in one kit at this link. It is offered in red, silver, gold, green and blue.


I am going to break this upgrade into sections. It is IMPORTANT that you understand this and complete the assembly the way that I show it here. It is done this way for a reason, mainly to make the assembly MUCH easier. Not following the order that I lay out here will do nothing but make the whole project harder. Again, I'm speaking from experience. Here's the order that the upgrade will be completed.

1. The Upper Block Assembly
2. The Lower Block Assembly
3. The Main Gear, Main Shaft and Tail Boom Assembly
4. The Main Motor Assembly
5. Servo Installation
6. The Receiver and ESC Installation
7. Joining of the Upper and Lower Block Assemblies

Again, to have the best possible experience when performing this upgrade, you must follow this order! With that said, let's do this!


The Upper Block Assembly

Doing this writeup, I will refer to the helicopter as having a left and right side or half. When I do, the sides are determined by looking at the helicopter from the tail end. Again, make sure that you are using Loctite on any screws that are inserted into any aluminum parts.





1. Attach the the left and right CF (carbon fiber) Upper Side Frame pieces to the Lower Main Shaft Bearing Block.

2, Attach the Upper Main Shaft Bearing Block to the left CF Upper Side Frame piece.





3. Attach one of the Servo Mount brackets to the right CF Upper Side Frame piece. Do not completely tighten. You want these brackets to be loose until you install the servo. Having them loose will make aligning the servo mount holes and bracket holes easier. The upper Servo Mount Bracket screws will also hold the Upper Main Shaft Bearing Block in place.

4. Install the remaining Servo Mount Bracket. See pictures below to help with the orientation of the brackets.






5. Install the Boom Mounts. The Boom Mounts are different. Each Boom Mount has a specific location where it is installed. See pictures below for clarity.






That concludes the Upper Block Assembly.



Lower Block Assembly

1. Install the left and right CF Lower Side Frame pieces to the CF Bottom Frame piece. They will lock into place and then you can add the screws.

2. Install the Third Bearing Block. Do not completely tighten the screws at this time.







3. Install the battery Block.





That concludes the Lower Block assembly.




Main Gear, Main Shaft and Tail Boom Assembly

1. Install the Solid Carbon Main Shaft with Aluminum Collar Set through the Upper Block Assembly.

2. Install the Delrin 120T Main Gear with Aluminum Hub Set onto the Main Shaft. You will secure it with the supplied locking nut and bolt.







3. At this point, you are ready to install the new Tail Boom. You will use the wires from your old tail boom. First, feed the wires from your old tail boom through the new tail boom. Make sure that you feed the wires through the correct end of the new tail boom. You should start feeding the wires through the end of the tail boom that has the cut out for the boom mount pin. See picture below for clarity. I have found that if you organize the wires so that they are NOT twisted, that they will easily feed through the tail boom.




4. Once the Tail Boom is installed, you will need to dress the wiring so that it does not interfere with the pinion gear of the main motor. I have demonstrated a way to do this in the following pictures. You want to make sure that the zip tie that you use is tight enough to hold the wires, but NOT too tight where it crushes the wires.








Main Motor Installation

1. The main motor is going to be mounted in a different location other than stock. It will also be flipped upside down. Because of this, the main motor will need to be wired differently than it is with the stock setup. This is VERY important if you want to see your bird fly again. If you wire it as stock, you bird will look very pretty as it sits on the ground with the blades spinning very fast in the wrong direction. Talk about a face palm moment, yea... been there.

If you followed my suggestion earlier, you also purchased the 13T pinion gear along with this kit. You will remove and store away the stock motor bracket, and then remove the pinion gear. The stock pinion gear is easily removed and replaced by removing the hex nut that holds it in place.






2. Once the motor is mounted, you need to ensure that the wires coming out of the tail boom are CLEAR of the pinion and have no chance of being cut by the pinion gear during flight. See the pictures below.







3. When you mount the main motor, you will want to make sure that you do not bind it up by mounting it too tight to the main gear, or mounting it crooked. You should be able to manually spin the main gear and it should continue to spin for about 2 seconds. If you spin the main gear and it stops as soon as you stop turning it, you have a binding or motor alignment issue and you need to readjust the position of the motor. THIS IS IMPORTANT. You don't want to burn up your motor by causing it to work harder than it should. So test that "free spin" theory when you tighten your motor in place. See the video below for clarity.





When you eventually connect the main motor to the Electronic Speed Control (ESC), reverse any two of the 3 wires (I reversed the red and black wires). Failure to do so will cause your blades to turn in the wrong direction and the helicopter will not lift off the ground. It will look pretty but it won't be going anywhere!





Servo Installation

1. The first thing you need to do is mark your servos. Use the initials A (aileron) and E (elevation). It doesn't matter what name you give either servo, what matters is where you plug them into the receiver. See the following pictures for clarity. You can see that the aileron servo needs to be plugged into connection #2 and the elevation servo needs to be plugged into connection #3.








2. The next thing that you will need to do is reverse the linkage ball on the ELEVATION servo. See pictures for clarity.

Stock setup:



Upgrade setup. Also pay attention to how the servo is mounted (from behind, not in front).





3. Now you can mount the servos. Pay attention to how the elevation servo is mounted.













Receiver and ESC Installation

If you have followed these instructions to the letter, this part of the installation is going to help resolve one problem that some folks have with this upgrade. That would be the routing of the wires. The reason that folks have trouble with the wiring is because they do the upgrade incorrectly by assembling the frame too soon. That leaves them somewhat frustrated when trying to route all the wires. By following these instructions, that won't be an issue for you.

1. Secure the ESC to the CF Bottom Frame using a zip tie. Notice how I have routed the wires in the pictures below. I am going to supply plenty of pictures so that you will be able to tell exactly how everything is setup.



















Joining of the Upper and Lower Block Assemblies

1. Now you're ready to join the upper and lower blocks together. Do so using the provided 6 pan head screws. Check the pictures below before actually installing the screws to ensure that you route your wires correctly. As you are aligning the upper and lower blocks, make sure that the main shaft aligns with the 3rd bearing. The shaft will not go all the way through the 3rd bearing, just partially through it. Once aligned, tighten the 4 screws that hold the third bearing block. If you followed these instructions to the letter, those 4 screws should still be lose.










2. At this point, you are ready to dress down your wiring for the servos. Now there are a couple of ways to do this and some of it depends on which way you have your ESC positioned. What I will share here is pictures of the way I did mine. You don't have to do exactly as I have done but I can vouch for the way I have done it. My bird flies with no issues and none of the wires interfere with the main gear, the shaft or either servo.














Important picture:




3. Next, address the wiring for the main and tail motors. Pay special attention to the new way that you will need to connect the main motor wires.










4. At this point, you have completed the hard part of the upgrade. You will install the receiver using double-sided tape.







5. The rest of the upgrade is simple. You'll add the swashplate, the rotor hub, the horizontal and vertical wings, the anti-rotation guide, the tail motor housing, boom connecting rods and landing skids. There's nothing special about the installation of these parts but using the correct screws and using Loctite where necessary. Here are some pics just in case there are any questions. If you have any questions about any of the remaining items, refer to my 200SRX Repair Thread for clarity.

Something to note about installing the antirotation guide and canopy mount set. The canopy mount set comes with a "tool" to assist you in tightening the canopy mount set into the antirotation guide. If you torque on that "tool" hard enough, it will bend or break. What I did was use a very thin pick tool to tightening those canopy mounts. A pick tool is a lot more sturdy than what you get with that part and it won't break as you are tightening the canopy mounts in place. Just an FYI.




















I took my build to my LHS and they thought that it was a new Goblin helicopter. You should gave seen their faces when I told them it was the 200SRX that they sold me!

I will be updating this thread as I go over it and fine tune it so stay tuned!
















The Junkman
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Old 09-04-2014, 03:19 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Another awesome tech article! How do you request a sticky?
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Old 09-04-2014, 03:37 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Just ask a moderator.
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Old 09-04-2014, 05:06 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Default Motor location

It looks like the motor can be mounted either in front of or behind the main shaft. Any reason you chose the rear? It looks like by mounting the motor to the rear and also moving esc more to the rear that you would throw off the COG and be tail heavy. Just wondering.
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Old 09-04-2014, 05:18 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Another awesome tech article! How do you request a sticky?
Hit the Report Button. It's a little intimidating because it's main use is to report bad posts. There, you can leave a message requesting the thread be made a sticky. A moderator will read it and decide.
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Old 09-04-2014, 05:54 PM   #6 (permalink)
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That's another way to do it.
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Old 09-04-2014, 06:56 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Default WOW!!

This is one of your best. I received my advanced upgrade kit yesterday and was going to build from scratch this weekend..... after reading this post, I fell like I've already done it 50 times! Great detail, will make my build that much more fun, and easier too! Thanks for your contribution to the board!
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Old 09-04-2014, 07:02 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Surprised you didn't use the delrin anti rotation guide. It would be a little smoother.
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Old 09-04-2014, 07:23 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Again, Junkman, the depthness of your tutorials is nothing short of astonishing
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Old 09-04-2014, 07:34 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill_Van View Post
This is one of your best. I received my advanced upgrade kit yesterday and was going to build from scratch this weekend..... after reading this post, I fell like I've already done it 50 times! Great detail, will make my build that much more fun, and easier too! Thanks for your contribution to the board!
The instructions that they send although accurate, are easy to cause you to overlook and miss things. I know that I did, a few times! Of course, taking stuff apart 20 times gets old so I decided to write my own. That way, YOUR experience should be much better than mine.

Check back before you start as I am refining these instructions.

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Originally Posted by Wicked!! View Post
Surprised you didn't use the delrin anti rotation guide. It would be a little smoother.
I'm not having an issue with smoothness. Mine flies just fine.

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Originally Posted by Heli-cat View Post
Again, Junkman, the depthness of your tutorials is nothing short of astonishing
Thank you sir.
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Old 09-04-2014, 07:37 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bawinter View Post
It looks like the motor can be mounted either in front of or behind the main shaft. Any reason you chose the rear? It looks like by mounting the motor to the rear and also moving esc more to the rear that you would throw off the COG and be tail heavy. Just wondering.
Once you put the battery on there, everything evens right out. Because of the design of the carbon fiber chassis, the motor is to be mounted as I show in my writeup.
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Old 09-05-2014, 05:22 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Didnt take long to make Stcky status!
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Old 09-05-2014, 05:23 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Didnt take long to make Stcky status!
The mods be on it around here!
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Old 09-05-2014, 02:02 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Hope this doesn't get taken the wrong way.... but.... why??

I mean, its a beautiful little blinged out bird, no doubt, but mine has been flying flawlessly in stock form and does everything I ask of it. How's she fly in comparison? Enough to justify the project, or is it mostly just because?

Again, not a jab, just curious what the motivation was, and how she flies compared to stock. Nothing wrong with bling for bling's sake if that's what it is.

PS, Absolutely awesome write-up on the how-to. Kudos!
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Old 09-05-2014, 06:44 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Inverted2112 View Post
Hope this doesn't get taken the wrong way.... but.... why??
No offense taken! I think you answered it best. Just because! But you have to understand the man behind the plan. I could have taken the easy road in life but what did I do?



I am just that kind of man.

By the way, and it could be just me but it seems to be a little smoother in flight. Not enough to justify the cost but then hey, it's just money!
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Old 09-08-2014, 10:06 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Great instructions and illustration! Please get Horizon Hobby to hire you - they could certainly use someone of your obvious talent.
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Old 09-09-2014, 10:01 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Rick5150 View Post
Great instructions and illustration! Please get Horizon Hobby to hire you - they could certainly use someone of your obvious talent.
I would LOVE to have a MUCH better manual than the ones they put out. What kills me is they have NO repair manuals, as if all of us are certified in 3D flight or something.
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Old 09-25-2014, 04:12 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Bill_Van View Post
This is one of your best. I received my advanced upgrade kit yesterday and was going to build from scratch this weekend..... after reading this post, I fell like I've already done it 50 times! Great detail, will make my build that much more fun, and easier too! Thanks for your contribution to the board!
Hey Bill, did you get your bird built yet?
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Old 09-28-2014, 08:25 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Again, Junkman, the depthness of your tutorials is nothing short of astonishing
You should see his car detailing vids!
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Old 09-28-2014, 09:17 PM   #20 (permalink)
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You should see his car detailing vids!


Don't tell me that you were watching those!
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