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Blade 600X Blade 600X Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 10-13-2014, 06:59 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Stripped the Main Gear Again

Anyone else strip a main gear?

This is number two for me. First time maybe it was user error second time I put a lot of time into the gear lash measuring the high and low spots, paper, etc. so not a mechanical setup issue.

This time though it stripped during an oh $h!t recovery, no damage other than the gear.

Stock motor, 120 Castle ESC using the Castle Governor, stock pinion and gears. Happened in Idle up 1 which is set to 1,900 rpms, usually I fly at 2,150 in idle 2. Using the James Haley Castle setup

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks
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Old 10-13-2014, 07:16 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Any chance you're using the 600x HV 80 config on the 120 HV?
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Old 10-13-2014, 08:26 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I will take a look and report back on that. Didn't know anything about setting up the ESC so copied the file and haven't touched it.

Now have set up a Trex 450 on a Castle so a bit more experience. Going to get another Castle for my 300cfx. I just maidened the Trex 450 after owing the bare kit for several years. Immediately felt comfortable with it, I have yet to get there with the 300cfx. There was just something different about the 450 that I immediately wanted to start tossing it around like my 130.
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Old 10-13-2014, 08:49 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Maybe I should ask how everyone is setting their mesh and how often they check it. I set mine using a piece of standard copy paper at the tightest spot.

Someone just directed me to a site where they set it tight at the tightest spot.
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Old 10-13-2014, 09:54 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I looked at the config file for the HV80... I didn't see anything in there that wouldn't work right on the 120.

I don't know why you're having trouble with your gears, but I got myself a Lynx Mod1 main gear and pinion.

-J
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Old 10-14-2014, 03:07 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gentcpa View Post
Maybe I should ask how everyone is setting their mesh and how often they check it. I set mine using a piece of standard copy paper at the tightest spot.

Someone just directed me to a site where they set it tight at the tightest spot.
You will want no tick at the tightest spot, the loosest spot should have the slightest little tick of play. less than paper i would think. Im not a fan of the paper method, as it can leave your gear mesh too loose.
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Old 10-14-2014, 06:50 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3dblair View Post
You will want no tick at the tightest spot, the loosest spot should have the slightest little tick of play. less than paper i would think. Im not a fan of the paper method, as it can leave your gear mesh too loose.
+1

I just found the tightest spot on the main gear and adjusted the mesh at this point so the play was so minimal that it'd be considered tight. So far I've not had any issues with it, but I knew when I built the bird that the mod 0.8 gear it uses would be prone to stripping (a bird this size should be mod 1 or mod 1.25). I fly very hard 3D and do not expect the main gear to last very long before I finally strip it; but I'm not going to upgrade it to the Lynx gear unless or until that happens. Stripping the main gear sucks, but is unlikely to damage anything else or cause a crash, so it's one of those "wait-till-it-happens" upgrade opportunities. I may get lucky and not have any issues with my gear.

Gentcpa, one thing you might want to check is the location of your pinion on the motor shaft. If the pinion is too low, the teeth may not provide an even mesh since the pinion teeth taper at the top. This will become evident if you notice your main gear develops additional wear at the top of the teeth.

I'm still planning on doing a review of the 600X, but I ended up having to send my DX8 in for servicing because it was rebooting on me while I was flying (bad encoder board). Now that I've got my transmitter back, the weather has sucked here for the past week (*heavy* rain), so I still haven't got around to doing my 600X review. There won't be another decent flying day till the end of this week. I'm now beginning to wonder if I even should do a review of this bird since it may be sold out by the time I finish it...
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Old 10-15-2014, 08:45 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Good luck with the radio.

I ended up ordering the Lynx gear set. I really don't want to have this in the back of my mind when I am flying it.

Why are you selling the 600x?
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Old 10-16-2014, 03:17 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I mean sold out at all the online shops and vendors. There's not much point in reviewing a product people can no longer buy... I'm not selling mine.
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Old 10-18-2014, 07:40 PM   #10 (permalink)
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My main gear also stripped in flight today. What's a good pinion to go along with the lynx main gear? Thanks!
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Old 10-18-2014, 07:58 PM   #11 (permalink)
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14T is approximately the same as stock for 600X ratio.
You will get interference with the anti- rotation bracket and the motor so a little bit if modification is necessary, not much.
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Old 10-18-2014, 08:36 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by night wolf d View Post
14T is approximately the same as stock for 600X ratio.
You will get interference with the anti- rotation bracket and the motor so a little bit if modification is necessary, not much.
I went with 15t and it's pretty good with the castle gov set to 2250rpm. As a bonus, no mods needed with the anti-rotation bracket.

-J
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Old 10-18-2014, 08:46 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I went with 15t and it's pretty good with the castle gov set to 2250rpm. As a bonus, no mods needed with the anti-rotation bracket.

-J
Yes 15t just clears and is good for higher head speeds.
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Old 10-18-2014, 10:38 PM   #14 (permalink)
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15T here as well. It just clears as stated above. Seems noisier than I remember, glad I made the change though. Also noticed one of those extra carbon frame pieces was broken.
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Old 10-18-2014, 11:35 PM   #15 (permalink)
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So something like this?

http://www.amain.com/Lynx-Heli-Mod-1...-550-X/p273256

Or are there better ones around (for similar price)?

Thanks!
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Old 06-01-2015, 05:16 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Default How is the Lynx Main Gear holding up?

I just recently stripped my main gear as well and was wondering how the people who changed theirs to the Lynx Gear felt it was holding up and if it is worth changing to this setup from stock setup.
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Old 06-01-2015, 05:43 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Holding up well. I would highly recommend it over the stock one.
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Old 06-01-2015, 10:59 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I was using the Lynx mod 1 gear for a while until I stripped it when I lost the tail from a cracked tail servo horn. The crash required a rekit. Once i get the bird rebuilt I will be going back to the stock main gear. I can't justify spending the money on another Lynx gear when I have 3 stock gears laying around.
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Old 06-02-2015, 06:19 PM   #19 (permalink)
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hi Folks,

Finding this thread interesting.

Was reading in another thread that the recent Castle Creations firmware releases has resulted in a more aggressive governor....requiring some folk to back off the gov gain from what they were running on previous versions.

Are you folk running CC ESC or are you running a higher spec gov gain on your ESC??

Or as not many folk have responded ..it might have just been a sub-standard batch of main gears ...and now no more issue since that batch has cycled around perhaps??

...all a bit hard to say ...giving the small number of replies.
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Old 09-28-2015, 12:36 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Sorry to hear about everyone's main gear issues.The first part of my response has nothing to do with the 600X but has a lot to do with gear mesh.

First Part
By far, the hardest heli to do the proper gear mesh would be the Mikado's Herringbone Main gears. I was flying my Logo 500 with Mod .5 per Finless Bob's video. Worked very well for over 80 flights till I got more proficient and start doing Tic Toc's ... and guess what, I got a Tic but not a Toc and was lucky enough to have still some HS. It just let out a loud skrreeech and a loud whine on the immediate emergency landing.

Second Part
With that being said, I was able to replicate what I learn on the Logo to other heli's. Any gear that is not CNC will have low and high spots. it's from the material cooling down from the molding process. Here is what I suggest:

- Make sure the main gear is properly set so there is no vertical play
- Apply Loctite on the pinion
- Secure the pinion on the flat spot so the pinion barely slides up & down
- Mesh up the pinion to main gear with medium tension
- Torque the motor screws (as though you were to permanently set it)
- Spin the main gear CW
- The goal is to get the pinion to the correct ride height
- Carefully tighten the pinion set screw (avoid moving it)
- Now that the pinion is properly set
- Find the highest spot on the main gear
- According the Mikado Logo Manual, there should be NO BACK-LASH
- I would allow just a tiny, thickness of a hair back lash on the high spot

* Too-Tight gear mesh will shorten bearing life & bend 5mm motor shaft
** Loose gear mesh will be loud and strip main gears
*** I wouldn't recommend using plastic, paper or any type of material to set back-lashes

This is my process. I'm able to run Mod .7 up to 12S with a very Torque-key X-Era Motor on 693mm blades @ 2000 HS. This setup can with stand Pirouetting Tic Toc's and Auto Rotation Bail Out (with motor not idling), a maneuver that abuses main gears.
I also use Dry Fluid Lude for Main Gears ... once you set the mesh correctly, these fluid will let your main gear run cooler and extend its life.

Hope this help many sirs!
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