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Old 12-30-2014, 10:48 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default My HelixHeli G700 Setup.

As promised here are some notes on the build up of my HeliXHeli G700, and all the parts I used if anyone finds it useful as a reference for future builds. I'm also creating this for yself as a reference of replacement parts

Frame kit: G700 in carbon (special order from Tin)

Hardware:
I didn't get any hardware with my donor, so I used Lynx M3 SHCS with aluminum shoulder washers rather than the Align shoulder screws

Head:
I wanted to use the traditional swash follower head so I used these parts. Some I got from a donor, some I bought.
  • H70H004xx 700FL head block
  • H70H007XX swash followers
  • HN7116 grips
  • HN7123 grip arms
  • HN7017AA swash plate
  • HN7025feathering shaft
  • H70H003xx 700FL main shaft (this is the longer 213mm shaft. The H70H003 set is ~8mm shorter and wont work with the links I used)
  • HN7063T (x2) linkage rod set. use 2 of the longest links from each for servo-swash rods
  • H70066T 700EFL rod A - use for swash to grip links.
  • Servo arms - you need 22mm length to the ball to get enough swash movement without binding. Use blue align aluminum arms or SAB plastic.
Notes:
- The links I used above will only work with the longer main shaft I used. This is the same setup and part #s as Carey's build thread.
- I used the Lynx upgrade feathering shaft bolts.
- If I built another one, rather than piecing it all together I would just use this head system
  • H70H002XX 700FL Flybarless Rotor Head System
Front drive train:
  • HN7019D 115T maingear (if out of stock have to order the HN7021D set)
  • H7NG001AX 21T torque tube drive gear black
  • H70G007XX 104T auto gear
  • KDE AT700-MBB-V2 thrusted bearing blocks
  • KDE AT700-OWBM one way baring holder (with align OWB from donor)
Notes:
- Do not use the KDE 115T maingear, it wont fit.
- The G007xx auto gear can be used with either 21T (nitro) or 22T (ELF) tail drive gears, however I tested and the 22T fits too tight in the helix frames. You would have to slot and move back the tail boom mount to fit correctly.

Tail:
I used the DFC boom to get more clearance for big blades and help with the nose heavy issues. The DFC boom is 15mm longer than the 700n boom. Using the long main shaft above and DFC boom I have over an inch of clearance with the Rail 716s and Rail 106 tail blades.
  • HN7046 700 boom mount
  • H7NT002XX 700DFC boom
  • H7NT004XX 700DFC torque tube
  • H7NT005XX 700DFC control rod
  • H70G005XX rear gear set and tail shaft
  • H70T001XX tail rotor grips
  • KDE AT700-PTC-V2 pitch control assembly
  • KDE AT700-TBSM tail boom clamp
  • MA 90 size boom supports
  • Align tail fin
Notes:
- The old v1 plastic align tail pitch arm is junk, so I used KDE. The new Align aluminum design is a clone of KDE and should work as well.
- Use the latest dual bearing metal align tail grips. The earlier grips would shear off the spindle.
- Stick to all the updated black gears, not white.
- I used the KDE tail boom clamp only because the align one I had stripped when I tried to screw it down tight.

Fuel tank and engine setup:

For tank setup I had some old MA fittings around so I used those instead of the align plastic bits. The Whiplash 90 degree tank fitting and rubber works for the carb line, you just have to ream out the hole bigger. This will also let the stock Zenoah felt clunk fit.

For the vent I also used a MA fitting and placed it where Carey did, but if I had to do it again I would move it to the back slope of the tank, less likely to interfere with the main gear there. Just do the 3 loops and run the vent down behind the LG.

I ran the return to the molded fitting. Use some sandpaper to clean up the molding flash on this part and clamp the line tight with a zip tie, otherwise it leaks.

To seal everything up I used Permatex ultra black RTV, including on the blanking plug. (update) Eventually this leaked so I used the solution of drilling a hole in the rubber plug and using a bolt with 2 big washers to clamp it down.

Update after break in - the Align tank swells from gas exposure, eventually causing fuel foaming from vibration. Per Tin this is a known problem with all conversions and no definitive solution. I relieved the frame cutouts 1mm which helped a lot. If you fly often it will keep getting worse and you will periodically have to change the tank for a new one.

For the required throttle push rod, I found an Align swash to grip linkage rod was the proper length, have to lookup the part number.



---

The rest of it - build as you like. I used all the other parts as spec'ed out in Careys build thread and it went together great. A few things to watch out for:

Frame
- To stiffen it up in a couple spots I added two extra spacers beyond the ones provided, One in front of the throttle servo, and another under the tail servo. Otherwise both throttle and tail servo locations could flex.
- the two front lower mount holes for the tail box are drilled too low, as discovered by Rototerrier. Insert the rear and top front holes and you will see. Use a small round file to open them up appropriately so that the boom mount doesn't deform.

CG - Some guys have had it very nose heavy. Mine came out just right with the RX generator and batt up front, and the FBL and governor at the back. I am running a very light Fusuno canopy @ 5.5oz, using the century muffler that is lighter and puts the weight further back than a Hatori or RJX, and am using the long DFC tail - all of these factors help balance.

Canopy fit - Built stock with the century V2 pipe, I couldn't get the canopy on as one mount post is right next to the muffler. I fixed this moving the front mounts up 25mm. you may or may not like how that looks. While doing that I also switched to RCBooya quick mounts, as the stock post and clip arrangement is a real pain with the tight fusuno grommets.

Landing gear - It likes to tip back since the main shaft is so far back, so push the skid tubes as far back as possible and watch out you dont dig the tail when landing an auto.

Clutch fit
- I had interference between my Zenoah clutch and the HPI bell. Turns out that the clutch bell was not fully seated on the pinion. The tolerances are so tight that you might have to file down the boss on the pinion to get the bell to fit flush, tightening the bolt was not enough to pull them together on my build.
- Some of the HPI bells are out of true. You can switch to the full CNC Vertigo clutch bell for smoother running.

Throttle servo- For the servo I used, mounting it over the frame caused the wheel and link to rub the canopy. I fixed this by under mounting the servo.

Generator setup - If you get the generator mount kit, chuck the included spiral aluminum coupler. Mine fractured at less than 30 flights. A rubber insert coupler like the one Raja supplies with Jewel generator kits works better.
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Old 12-30-2014, 10:57 AM   #2 (permalink)
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All up weight and electronics details are here
https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.p...5&postcount=54




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Old 12-30-2014, 11:13 AM   #3 (permalink)
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looks great Jeremy!
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Old 12-30-2014, 11:23 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks Carey!!

Other than some teething issues (normal) Im thinking this will be a great flying heli!! Your build thread was spot on as always and a joy to follow.
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Old 12-30-2014, 12:18 PM   #5 (permalink)
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looks good! i am still scratching my head about the KDE gear thing though, both of my helix, the original and the prototype ran the 115T KDE gear just fine. i am wondering if it may be the alight bearing blocks that are used to hold the clutch that can be slightly off. maybe the frames though, maybe the gears...lol....i dont know....haha
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Old 12-30-2014, 02:31 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoveToFly1 View Post
looks good! i am still scratching my head about the KDE gear thing though, both of my helix, the original and the prototype ran the 115T KDE gear just fine. i am wondering if it may be the alight bearing blocks that are used to hold the clutch that can be slightly off. maybe the frames though, maybe the gears...lol....i dont know....haha
All I know is that mine ift so tight you couldn't turn the head, and somebody (Rototerrier??) mentioned they spoke to Tin and he ocnfirmed there is a dimensional variance between th KDE and Align gears, with the KDE being larger. I have no idea why KDE wouldnt mill theres an exact match...
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Old 12-30-2014, 02:36 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Default Canopy mounts

Some more detail. This shows where I moved the canopy mounts. I probabyl only needed to go up 10-15mm, but that caused interference with teh throttle link, so I mounted it just above.

If you do this, easy way to find the new location to drill is as follows:
  1. put some masking tape on the frame
  2. measure up however high you want to go from the original hole, and draw a horizontal line
  3. Measure the distance between the front an rear posts on your canopy, and place the zero of the ruler on the rear post against the frame
  4. swing the ruler down so the proper spacing crosses the line you just drew and make a mark. This is your new mount location.
If you just go straight up vertical from the original, the location wont fit the canopy hole.



In these photos, you can also see that I under mounted the throttle servo. With my servo, mounting on top made the servo wheel rub the canopy.
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Old 12-30-2014, 02:38 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Default Spacers

Here you can see where I added the additional frame spacers front and back.

The front one I just cut short and used it for one of the servo screws, but you could easily drill a location next to the servo.

The rear spacer I also used to hold the vent line and generator LED.
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Old 12-30-2014, 02:39 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Default Fuel tank detail

tank lines
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Old 12-30-2014, 03:21 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jharkin View Post
Here you can see where I added the additional frame spacers front and back.

The front one I just cut short and used it for one of the servo screws, but you could easily drill a location next to the servo.

The rear spacer I also used to hold the vent line and generator LED.
thats funny, i did the EXACT same thing with mine and my vent line! lol Great minds think alike....
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Old 12-31-2014, 03:17 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Hey Jeremy,

How visible are those LED's at distance?
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Old 12-31-2014, 08:49 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azalin View Post
Hey Jeremy,

How visible are those LED's at distance?
Depends on the sky... In broad daylight you can see them when you come in for a close hover but not much farther.. On a cloudy grey day you can see them a hundred feet or more.

They are the best at dusk however... then you can see them at any distance you could comfortably fly.
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Old 12-31-2014, 11:15 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Default Depends right Jeremy?

The superbright LEDs in the cases (white or green) can be seen alot better/further in daylight than the smaller nav lights right? The red one is more muted than the others but all get much brighter in the evening where the white one becomes blinding at dusk.

They are cool to look at anyways, I think they all add a nice touch to the helis

-=>Raja.
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Old 12-31-2014, 07:07 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Hi Jeremy,

What battery do you use and where did you install it? It is one of the final things I still have to do to finish my build.

Thanks, Paul

OK: I noticed in another post that you are using A123. I was wondering what the best battery would be if a don't use a generator.

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Old 01-01-2015, 08:05 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PPJHEN View Post
Hi Jeremy,

What battery do you use and where did you install it? It is one of the final things I still have to do to finish my build.

Thanks, Paul

OK: I noticed in another post that you are using A123. I was wondering what the best battery would be if a don't use a generator.
Yeah, its a 2300 A123, strapped under the radio tray. With the BLS servos I'm using 500-600mAh a flight... So you might want to go bigger if you want to fly all day and not have to charge.
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Old 01-01-2015, 08:06 PM   #16 (permalink)
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After a 19 minute very rich break-in flight. I can see why some people are getting 30 minute flights!
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Old 01-02-2015, 06:14 PM   #17 (permalink)
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During break in, I was getting 45min flights where my Rx pack would cause brownouts before I ran out of fuel......lol....1st half a gallon.
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Old 01-03-2015, 12:03 PM   #18 (permalink)
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jeremy, really nice canopy, and matching airfilter, kev
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Old 01-05-2015, 11:11 PM   #19 (permalink)
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How is it for power compared to like say an electric
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Old 01-06-2015, 01:57 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k4rn1v00l View Post
How is it for power compared to like say an electric
That I couldn't really say for three reasons:

1 - its not broken in yet
2 - Ive never flown a 700 electric to compare
3 - I'm not nearly a good enough pilot to judge

Hopefully some of the experience guys that have flown Hanson and/or TRM 300's can chime in and give their thoughts on how a 300 compares to an electric or nitro for power.
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