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Gas Powered Thoughts Advice for Gas Helicopter Success from Carey Shurley


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Old 05-03-2015, 08:55 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Build Thread - RMJ E700 Gas Conversion






Last edited by carey shurley; 02-07-2019 at 05:42 AM..
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Old 05-13-2015, 09:52 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Default RMJ E700 Gas Conversion - Overview

Lets start off with what comes in the conversion kit from RMJ



The kit includes:
  • C/F Frame Set
  • C/F Motor Support plate
  • CNC Engine Mount
  • CNC Clutch bearing block & bearings
  • Steel pinion
  • Steel Clutch Bell
  • OWB Starter Adapter & bolts
  • Fuel Tank Isolator
  • Mount plate
  • CNC Main gear
  • Frame cutout template

all very high quality parts

There is also an optional part, an additional c/f mount plate



Although the conversion kit is mostly complete, there are a few parts you'll need to finish it some of them aren't really required but you'd probably want to use them anyway


  • Required - Align 700N Tank
  • Required - Align Trex Start shaft set
  • Required - Align Trex Tail control bellcrank
  • Required - Rods/balls/ball links for Throttle linkages
  • Required - Thunder Tiger Skid Mounts
  • Required - Align Trex Skid set

You'll also need to plumb the fuel tank for petrol use, here are some sample parts. More detail on that later



last but certainly not least, you'll need one of these as a donor model, a Thunder Tiger E700 V1, V2 or V3 version.



Whats Next?

Pre assemble components to make the conversion process faster

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Old 06-01-2015, 08:04 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Default RMJ E700 Gas Conversion - Component Assembly

Component Assembly


Before we get into the conversion, there is some component work to be done.

Fuel Tank


As seen in the required parts, you're going to assemble an Align Trex 700 Nitro fuel tank. But since this is a gas model, you'll be making some changes

you'll need a gasoline proof fuel line, a filtered clunk and normally an additional fuel tank fitting. You can get most of these parts at a lawn mower shop or I sell them in my store



Although not a requirement its much simpler to operate these if you plumb a fuel pickup, a vent and a fill/overflow. Since the Align tank is only plumbed for two of these I'd suggest adding an additional fitting. Because of the way the tank mounts into the frames, this is easy to locate and the location isn't critical. So first mark the tank for where the fitting is going to go



then drill it out making sure you slightly undersize based on the size of the fittings. The fittings I sell are .19" in diameter. Make sure to remove any bits in the tank



one way to get the fitting in is to use some excess tubing and pull it in as shown. Any way will work as long as you get it installed and tight



so make up a fuel inlet like this, the tube should ideally be about 5" in length



and complete the tank by assembling the fuel inlet grommet and seal and the tank is completed



Clutch Bell Assembly


The conversion includes the clutch bell, pinion and bearing block. The required parts include the Trex start shaft and coupler



install the pinion into the clutch bell using threadlock. This should be tight but don't try to kill it, not necessary



insert the start shaft from the inside as shown and push it all the way in



and install the start coupler on the top. There are small indents on the shaft to locate the set screws



that completes the clutch bell assembly


Upper Frame

Since the E700 doesn't have a clutch, the frames aren't cut for clutch bell clearance. The RMJ gas conversion has a large steel clutch bell so the frames need to be slightly relieved for clearance on each side.

The kit includes an aluminum template that makes this easy. If you're builiding the donor model, then combine the two upper frames and the template as shown.



if you're converting a fully built model, then you can just bolt this onto each frame side and make the cut on the model.

You'll need a cutting wheel and/or a burr bit plus a file to make the cutout neat



But once you're done the template helps make the cutout look like original equipment. I was able to do this in less than 10 minutes and that included having to go get the tools



Engine

Lets get the engine ready. You'll need a Zenoah 2xx RC format engine. The RC320 will not fit in this model. You can use a CY engine but be aware that you will need a Zenoah RC clutch for the supplied clutch adapter to fit

The kit includes an engine mount, you'll need to provide some M5 bolts and a throttle arm ball. I would suggest using one off of a Trex 700



first thing to do is to remove the original clutch. You need a wrench and usually a piston stop to replace the spark plug with so you can get bolts loose. NEVER try to tighten/loosen a bolt on one side of the crankshaft while holding the other secure. The crank may twist (its a two design) and it WILL be out of alignment and vibrate terrbily



These are the only parts you need from the original clutch



To mount the engine mount, it is not necessary to remove the clutch base from the crankshaft. So at this point what you have should look like this:



install the engine mount on the crankcase as shown using M5 bolts with thread lock. Put all 4 bolts in before fully tightening any of them



This is what the new clutch stack will look like. You'll include the starter adapter and shoulder bolts that come with the conversion kit



Install the clutch parts and fully tighten the bolts using threadlock. Again lock the engine with a piston stop. Also NEVER put anything in the exhaust port to block the piston, you'll just damage it. You'll find that you have to work the bolts in a little, the spring on the clutch holds the shoes together slightly tighter than is required for the holes in the shoes to align with the clutch base



Now install a ball ink on the throttle arm for throttle control. For my conversion I'm using Trex parts. It doesn't matter just make sure the ball and link fit together properly



and here is the completed engine ready for installation



Lower Frames


Before assembly there is some work we can do to the lower frames that is easier to do before they are installed on the model

first the tank isolators need to get installed



the kit includes a rubber U channel, fold it in half and cut it into two equal sized pieces. Fit the U part of the channel over the frame in the fuel tank cutout and work it around the entire opening. I would suggest starting in this corner



when you're done it will look something like this. Its not really critical HOW you install this just make sure it goes all the around the cutout and is seated properly




Lower Frames

We need to add mount points for the rear of the bottom engine plate which will be installed later. The E700 uses plastic blocks to mount the landing gear. This conversion uses a couple of additional of these to mount this plate. They are part of the required parts list



These blocks will mount on the insides of the lower frames. Mount them as shown on each frame half, make sure you have them on the correct side of each frame



Assemble the landing gear as you normally would and make sure the strut mount holes are at the dimension shown and that both sides match. If so they will bolt right on



That completes all of the pre-assemblies that can be done without disassembling the donor model.

Whats Next?

now its time to start the actual conversion!

Last edited by carey shurley; 02-07-2019 at 05:44 AM..
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Old 06-14-2015, 12:39 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Default RMJ E700 Gas Conversion - Converting the Frames

Converting the Frames

This is going to be the main part of the conversion. The conversion itself is really easy and with the pre-assembled components it will go quickly

Start by removing the battery tray...........won't be needing that anymore!



Its a good time to remove the tail boom. This isn't actually necessary but its a lot easier to work with the model with this off. Remove the rear spacer and keep it with the tail boom parts



Remove the entire lower section. Keep all the bolts and canopy mounts, will be needing them. The lower main shaft bearing block is going to fall out, hang on to it for now



Unless you just want to get more, you'll need these parts from the lower frames, the front spacer and the four landing gear mounts



Prepare Lower Frames

Previously, we installed the rear engine plate mounts on the inside of each lower frame half. The landing gear mounts will go into their original positions however you have to make a choice here

If you are going to use the stock landing gear (I wouldn't because you'll still have to modify the bottom plate) these will mount on the outside of the lower frames. If you are using the Trex landing gear then they mount on the inside of the lower frame pairs just as shown. The original bolts won't work because they are flat/beveled heads and the frame holes are not. Either use M3 x 8mm bolts or use some of the bolts you removed when you split the frame upper/lower parts



Here's a closer view of the mounts. Note that each one of these is completely flat on one side and has a small shoulder on the other. Install them with the shoulder facing up



The conversion kit includes c/f heat deflector plate. This is going to mount in the lower frame just above the engine and its just tabbed to fit into slots. There is a OPTIONAL tray that can be mounted between the lower frames below the fuel tank. It is also tabbed



So take the right side lower frame halves and mount the earlier removed frame spacer on the front as shown using threadlock. Now push the tabbed heat deflector into the 3 slots above the engine cutout (there is no top/bottom). If you are using the optional tray, it goes in the slots below the fuel tank



Get the fuel tank that you prepared earlier and spray the right side of it with window cleaner as well as the tank isolator on the right frame half. Carefully push the tank through the isolator, you'll have to angle it to clear the fittings. Push it in until the extrusion on the top bottoms onto the isolator



Now you can combine the two lower frame halves as shown. The cross plates tab into the slots on the left frame. Then bolt the left frame to the front spacer using thread lock. At this point the heat deflector plate will stay in place but the one below the fuel tank can fall out. If you want you can put a rubber band around the lower part of it until later



Here you can see how the right side if the tank and fittings sit through the right lower frame.



Prepare Upper Frames


Remove the original electric motor mount and the lower bearing block that the motor shaft would seat in, you won't need these. Hang onto the bolts though



Remove the retaining bolts on the main shaft and pull out the main gear assembly as shown



Remove the 8 bolts and take the original main gear off of the OWB hub. The conversion kit includes a custom made, straight gear main gear. One side has has a recessed center. This goes downward on the OWB hub just as the original




Mount this gear using the original bolts and thread lock. Tighten in a crossing fashion to make sure the gear seats properly on the hub.



Insert the new main gear assembly back into the frames, push the main gear through it and reinstall all the retaining bolts. You MAY need to readjust the upper bearing block to remove any vertical play in the shaft



Select the previously assembled clutch bell and push it into the upper frames as shown.



Position the clutch bell as shown, the pinion gear well engage with the main gear. At this point do not install any bolts to retain it



Now select the previously assembled lower frame set and position it as shown. Its going to fit over the upper frames just as the original frames did



Align all the mount holes as shown. NOTE: you will need to make sure the outer frames seat properly within the fuel tank isolators. The material is pretty wide and the outer frames literally have to slip into the U channel. Its easy to do, just do this from the rear part of the model



Now you can install all the mount bolts. This will also include the lower main shaft block. You will remove one of the cross-frame braces as it won't be used here. Note the position of the front canopy mounts....There is more about this when we mount the canopy. This is the right side of the model. DO NOT tigthen the bolts that hold the clutch bell/block into place



here you can see the bolts on the left side of the model. Again DO NOT tighten the clutch block bolts now. You'll need the M3 x 8mm bolts referenced in the "required parts" section



Looking from underneath the frame you can see where the heat deflector mounts just in front of the clutch.



Don't forget to reinstall the lower main shaft bearing block.



Whats Next?

Install the engine!

Last edited by carey shurley; 02-07-2019 at 05:45 AM..
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Old 06-14-2015, 12:40 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Default RMJ E700 Gas Conversion - Install Engine

Install the Engine

Before installing the engine, lubricate the start shaft one way bearing. I usually use a synthetic grease. Just don't add too much or it will get into the clutch



Select the previously prepared engine and push it into the frames as shown. You'll need to position the clutch shoes for clearance through the frame sides



Push the engine upward until the clutch goes into the clutch bell and the start shaft engages the start shaft adapter on the top of the clutch



Now you can install the eight M3 bolts that retain the engine mount into the frames. At this point DO NOT fully tighten them. Here you can see the four on the left side



and here you can see the four right side engine mount bolts.



Turn the model on its side and remove the four M5 bolts that retain the fan shroud. There are still two more bolts that hold it on so they won't fall out!



Find the lower engine plate in the conversion kit and orient it as shown. This is going to fit over the bottom of the engine fan shroud



Install the plate as shown and reinstall the four M5 fan shroud bolts previously removed. Use thread lock and tighten



The front mount bolts for them will go through the front of the engine plate and into the previously installed landing gear mounts. DO NOT fully tighten them

The rear landing gear bolts can be installed and fully tightened



Install two M3 bolts to retain the rear part of the engine plate, they go into the mounts originally installed on the lower frames. DO NOT fully tighten these yet



Here's how the model should look from the right side at this point



and also from the left side of the model



The engine now needs to be aligned with the clutch and frame assembly. The easiest way to do this is to remove the spark plug and spin the engine with a spin starter for a minute or so.



Now carefully go back and apply threadlock to each of these mount bolts on both sides of the model and fully tighten them



Finally you can fully tighten the four bolts that retain the lower engine plate/landing gear



Whats Next?

Just a few steps left to complete the conversion

Last edited by carey shurley; 02-07-2019 at 05:46 AM..
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Old 06-14-2015, 12:43 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Default RMJ E700 Gas Conversion - Complete Conversion

Complete the Conversion


Go ahead and reinstall the tail boom. Because the frame is slightly longer you'll need to loose the rear tail boom support mount so they supports can be repositioned



Otherwise the tail boom reinstalls as it originally did. You'll need the original frame spacer. MAKE SURE you use plenty of thread lock as the tail boom usually encounters a lot of vibration



The basic conversion is completed at this point, just a couple of things left to do



Mount the throttle bellcrank (from the required parts list). You'll need to make up a link for the carburetor side, if you are using the stock control arm on the carburetor the indicated length will be correct.



It mounts as shown using an M3 x 16mm bolt and a lock nut



Muffler


Although you can operate this model with the stock Zenoah muffler, I would strongly caution against it. The noise will NOT endear you to other club members or others around when you fly it. I'd suggest you use a muffler designed for helicopter use, the Hatori SB12 is shown



It will mount as shown. Make sure you use the original Zenoah exhaust gasket and seal any other surfaces with hi-temp silicone to prevent leaks



Fuel Tank Plumbing


Now we can plumb the fuel tank. You're going to setup a
  • Vent
  • Fill/overlow
  • fuel feed

Start with the fuel feed. Use only tygon or other gasoline resistant fuel line. Plumb a short piece between the fuel outlet on the tank and the fuel inlet on the carburetor. DO NOT splice this line or install any fittings in it.



Now plumb the fuel fill/overflow as shown. I suggest installing a T fitting in this line as a fill along with a short extension with an end plug. Its longer than it needs to be because............



You want to pulls this down so its no where near the main gear. Use tie wraps or velcro to secure this line to the fuel inlet line as shown



Finally plumb the fuel vent. You CAN use a "one way" vent valve commonly found on lawn implements however if you use it make sure you test it regularly. If it gets stuck your engine will go lean in the air potentially causing problems

The simple way to do this is to "loop" some fuel resistant line about 3 times, secure it to the frame with velcro and route it out the bottom of the model as shown



Canopy


On most gas conversions, since the frames are taller than the original model the canopy sits higher than normal and doesn't look quite right. You CAN install the canopy this way. Remember I made a note about the front canopy mount positions. If you install them in their original locations you will need to make very few canopy mods but it won't quite look right. If you chose the original positions, then you need to remove about 30mm of material from the bottom of the canopy.



However the kit has a feature that allows repositioning the canopy so that it looks better on the model . To do this you need to move the front canopy posts to a new hole in the lower frames. Remove them from their original positions and remount them in the hole thats slightly lower and further back. You'll need to put a 3mm bolt in the original post hole and use a lock nut to install the post in the new position. Here you can see the left side repositioned



and here is the right side repositioned



This will look much better but you're going to have to make some canopy mods for it to fit. The U shape cutout in the canopy model now has to be deeper (see measurement)



you'll also need to make a cutout on the muffler side (cut to fit your muffler)



and on the carburetor side to clear the carburetor and its control arm/rod



Here's the completed converson with the canopy mounted viewed from the right side. You can see where the muffler clearance is needed



and here you can see the left side with the clearance for the throtte rod and carburetor



If you already have electronics installed, then the conversion is done!!!

if not, they need to be installed

Next Step

Install Electronics

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Old 06-14-2015, 05:19 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Default RMJ E700 Gas Conversion - Electronics/Setup

Servo Installation

There's nothing unique about the control systems on this helicopter other than its necessary to add a throttle servo.

so first we'll mount all the servos just using the std parts that come with the kit. You WILL need additional h/w to mount the throttle servo

here are the servos mounted

elevator servo


left side cyclic


right side cyclic and throttle servo



rudder servo


FBL system

mount this using a very thin tape. I usually use 3M permanent tape, its gray in color. I'd also suggest securing it with velco



So if you have a lot of electronics to mount you're going to find that with the canopy pushed down there isn't enough room to mount the battery, rx, controllers, etc on the radio tray

In the introduction for this build you will find an optional radio tray. This mounted below the fuel tank. This provides for additional space. In this case the battery has been mounted and strapped to that tray.



this means that an extension needs to be made to connect the battery to the rest of the electronics. With this setup an on/off switch isn't needed as this connector can be easily connected/disconnected without removing the canopy.



This extension needs to bge routed so that the canopy doesn't interfere but still reaches the electroinis for connection.



You can also see that its quite challenging to get all the wiring out of the way



here's a left side view of all the forward electronics. You can see how the battery extension cable connects into my electronics here.



Setting up the control surfaces on the E700 is so easy. TT includes these splined cores that bolt onto the servo output shaft. Here you can see the one for elevator. Make sure you tighten it



same core goes on the rudder servo



and the right side cyclic servo. For the throttle you'll need a std arm. I'd suggest setting the ball at about 7mm from servo center



If you're building from scratch, you need to build the servo arms. Note that they both clamp and have a set screw to retain them on the previously installed horns. You need to consider access to the set screw and clamp bolt for each servo so you might want to test fit these to determine how you want to set them up



get the throttle servo centered and then connect the upper throttle control rod as shown



the E700 allows you to lock the swashplate bellcranks into place using an m3 allen wrench. I just use the original TT torx tools as shown. This feature is retained on the conversion



these push all the way through the frames and lock both the ail/pitch bellcranks as well as the elevator arm into exact center position



now get cyclic and collective settings centered on the transmitter and make sure all servos have centered as well. Here you can see the right side cyclic control arm installed. This is easy slip the arm over the horn then connect the two pushrods. Adjust their lengths as necessary to make sure they both fit over the balls with no tension. Then tighten the set screw on the control arm using threadlock and then tighten the clamp bolt using thread lock



move on to the right side cyclic servo and repeat the process



finally do the same thing for the elevator servo

MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT move your collective/cyclic controls on your transmitter while you have the bellcranks locked into place!!! you can break the servo gears or control rods!


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Old 06-14-2015, 05:20 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Old 07-01-2015, 02:48 AM   #9 (permalink)
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ordered my conversion and Align parts today.
Got to start saving for the TRM 300 and pipe now
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Old 07-03-2015, 01:24 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Superb build thread as usual Carey, loving mine and pretty much have the 300 properly run in now.
Any news on the modded RJX pipes Carey?
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Old 07-03-2015, 08:33 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Any news on the modded RJX pipes Carey?
not much, I had hoped to have them by now. The last update I had I think they were starting to etch the logos on them
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Old 07-03-2015, 09:33 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carey shurley View Post
not much, I had hoped to have them by now. The last update I had I think they were starting to etch the logos on them
Ok thanks Carey. I'll definitely be wanting one when you get them.
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Old 08-06-2015, 09:09 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Will these kit be coming back in stock? Now that there are parts again im thinking of going nitro or gas
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Old 08-10-2015, 08:17 PM   #14 (permalink)
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yes, probably take 2-3 weeks for them to get here. for some reason customs takes a while
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Old 11-21-2015, 10:34 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I think I'm going to do this Hoping to place my order soon

What are the approx flight times?
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Old 11-22-2015, 06:11 PM   #16 (permalink)
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depends on the engine, 10-15 minutes is typical
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