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200QX Blade 200QX Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 02-24-2015, 12:40 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Microheli 200 QX frame thoughts

Hello all

I am a big fan of Microheli and in the past i have purchased many of their products which have been excellent but i am not sure i like the Blade 200 QX upgrade frame and i cannot put my finger on why i am not sure about it

Dave
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Old 03-04-2015, 05:38 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Ive had the frame for a while for testing purposes. Its been a great upgrade, VERY durable for me so far. Had some really nasty hits, only thing I've broken is props. Easy to build, easy to read instructions, lightweight and flys great. Happy with it myself. Heres a quick video made about the frame by another one of our reps. Feel free to ask any questions you'd like, Ill try and help any way I can.
MicroHeli RC 200QX Advanced Frame Build (2 min 1 sec)


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Old 03-17-2015, 03:08 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Hi,

How thick is the carbon:
- base platter
- upper platter
- upper motor arm (upper border looks thin?)
- below motor arm

Can the motor arms break on a crash? Is it crash-resistent?
HH factory frame always broke the right front motor arm.


For diffused LEDs I will be going with the RakonHeli Delrin landing legs and 3mm LED set (stretched cables).
But I hope that Astroid Design may have an acryl compatible light diffusor motor mount. Not sure if it will fit the MH motor base platter with all bindings (upper platter border).

BTW: WowHobbies and Heli-Nation have the canopies to the MH carbon frame. I also located one dealer in Austria, if one is looking for the frame (without canopies).
Found another Austria dealer for RakonHeli tuning parts, e.g motor screws (top+below), Heli-Factory folding props and stuff.

Greetings from Germany

Thomas

Last edited by Thomas.Heiss; 03-22-2015 at 07:48 AM..
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Old 03-19-2015, 08:47 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davethepitch View Post
Hello all

I am a big fan of Microheli and in the past i have purchased many of their products which have been excellent but i am not sure i like the Blade 200 QX upgrade frame and i cannot put my finger on why i am not sure about it

Dave
My only real complain is that it only offers a weight savings of 1 1/2 grams from the original frame. There are other aftermarket options out there for the 200QX that can save a significant amount of weight, while still offer increased rigidity and protection.
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Old 03-22-2015, 07:01 AM   #5 (permalink)
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My Frame is built


Review:
1. Do N O T yet plug in the motor cables before everything is fixed and well tested.

2. Do N O T put the 4 motor arms and base top platter onto the bottom construction until the wiggly motors are stopped (washers, rubber rings, etc.).


3. You will need additional washers to fix the wiggly BL motors.
Almost not possible to get size 7x... washers, even not at my LHS.
I choose 2mm seal rubber rings which I mounted in the inside of the motor mount just before the carbon bottom platter (2nd available option).
For the Germans: Handwerk O-Ring für Flexschläuche M10 252874@OBI.
Do NOT put rubber rings 1st under the motor or 3rd last before the small alu washer as they will be pressed above/onto the alu washer rings. See indendation at the first big washer.


Tip:
4. Take care when you tighten the motor with the bottom white plastic HH screws.
The MH carbon motor mount platter hole is round.
The bigger alu washer is round too.

The inside of the motor (cables) will be turning and will NOT stay fixed (once the screw gets more tight) as it is the case with the HH special motor mount.


Those facts alltogether already cost me one BL motor
Two motor cables demolished with/in the windings.
Just wanted to overcome the fact to have to unfasten all the top screws again.


5. Take care of the two screws which are 1,6x4mm long for the back alu stiffener.
They go in the middle of the landing legs.

Rest of the arm legs are 1,6x3mm screws.

Do not swap these once you are in the final build step to loctite all the bottom screws.
Very easy to confuse the screws if more than one screw lays on table.
You can only use x4mm in the middle of the landing legs!!!


6. Do not use the enclosed allen key(s).
For the 2 of 3 arm leg screws where you mount it to the base+top platter it did not fit and slipped.
You better should get a good screw driver set.

For the Germans (who might want to buy after 18 o' clock ):
I have made very good experience with the OBI Emil Lux Set 397973.
Stronghold bits, small 0,7/0,9/1,3/1,5/... hexa, 4/5/6/7/.... torx bits and many more.


For the 2 motor arm mounting screws to base platters: 1,3
For the rest of bottom/top platter + motor arms: 1,5


7. Ribbon cable:
You really have to bend the ribbon cable that the "rest" goes straight onto the HH board under the top carbon platter. I choose sticky tape to fix it topwards.
You do not seem to be able to push it under the main RX board (space).
Do NOT choose to let it hang normally over sideways.
Why? I found out that once I fold in the right back arm, that the cable gets oddly twisted once the alu strut touches the cable. You can also see this from the back view.
I feared that this may corrupt the cable on the long run.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas.Heiss View Post
How thick is the carbon:
- base platter
- upper platter
- upper motor arm (upper border looks thin?)
- below motor arm
I can now answer some of my questions.

bottom base platter: 1mm
upper platter: 1mm
upper/below motor arm including mount: 1,0-1,2mm
upper motor arm mount border: 1,7mm


Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas.Heiss View Post
Can the motor arms break on a crash? Is it crash-resistent?
Motor arms / set of 2x (top/bottom) 3 screws:

Looks stiff.

Does NOT wiggle once the top platter is put on and all top screws (+ buttom screws) are tight.

Concept of extra side extensions to base platters + 3 screws per arm / 6 screws per top/bottom platter is good.

Much better than on the vid of the Xtreme MR200 chassis where everything shakes once you tip your finger on the arm.


I also like the increase of strength with the alu stabilizers in the arms.


However you can flex the carbon platters or wiggle the arm attachments if not all top screws and platters are put on and fixed.


Personally I would have loved if the carbon, at least base platters, would have been a bit thicker (maybe 2,5-3mm).


Crash proof:
I can imagine that generally spoken there might be two to three weak points for possible motor arm breaks.

1st: outside motor mount (thin 1,7mm border for the top motor arm)
2nd: on the motor arm left/right besides the motor mount (HH plastic chassi)
3rd: Directly on the base platter with the side extensions, where the arm is hold with three screws.

For the HH plastic chassis it was always the 2nd option the weak point:
Outside motor arm BEFORE the motor mount or rather the bottom+top plastic mounts itself where they attach to the motor arm.

I pray to god that neither the 2nd nor the 3rd options happens on a crash.

To avoid a possible crack on the bottom base platters side attachments I gladly would have choosen platters with 2,5-3mm thickness.
If it might crack you have to un-screw the whole frame


Canopy:
The top carbon platter stays the same even for a MH frame without canopy set.
MH provides instruction manual in the set.

> I do not understand where the 3 fiberglass canopy alu mounts will be plugged into on the top frame platter.

There is one front hole in the top platter.
The canopy set provides a special front alu stiffener MH-20QX005CF.
You have to mount the canopy alu stiffener with an included M1.6x3mm screw thru that front hole. But reversed, so the screw has to be fasten from the bottom side of the top platter.
Therefore you probably have to un-screw all screws, including 12 screws from motor arms, of the top-platter to remove it.
You may be able to screw it with a special angle bracket hexagon screw driver. The space between top and bottom carbon platter is only ~9,5mm max.

The rear canopy mounts MH-20QX005CR will be mounted at the back.
Therefore you have to remove the two M1.6x3mm cap screws which were included with the original MH frame set at the back.

Greetings

Thomas

Last edited by Thomas.Heiss; 03-23-2015 at 06:49 AM..
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Old 03-26-2015, 08:32 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Front MH battery mount:

Version of MH frame / mount: 03/2015 (buy time)
Height between bottom and battery mount carbon platters: 18mm
Width between two battery mount alu stiffeners: 26mm
Width between alu landing leg mounts: ~29,5-30,0mm (30mm width lipos may not fit)


Compatible with:
- EFlite 2s 800mah 20C lipo 20AWG (width 25mm, height 13mm) - tested
- EFlite 2s 800mah 30C lipo 18AWG (width 25mm, height 13mm) - spec only


Not compatible with:
- Mylipo 2s 900mah 30C (width 28mm)
- Yuki / CN Brainergy 2s 900mah 45C (width 28mm)
- Kyosho Nvision 900mah 30C (width 30,5mm)
- SLS APL Magnum / Xtron 2s 800mah (width 30mm)
-> APL Magnum 45C lipo even would have had AWG 14 cables!
- LRP VTEC Expert Line 2s 850mah - 3C (width 31mm)
- LRP VTEC Expert Line 2s 900mah - 3C (width 31mm)


Testing / Feedback outstanding:
- Xtreme 2s 1000mah 30c: any dealer spec for width/height/AWG?
- LRP VTEC Expert Line 2s 800mah - 30C (width 26mm - probably does not fit)


I want to suggest to MicroHeli to change the battery mount width from 25mm to at least 28-30mm.
There is enough closed carbon space left/right on the bottom base platter :-)
You just need a new battery mount carbon platter with new width and two new holes in the bottom base platter.

Is it technical possible to make additional battery mount sides variable?
Maybe two additional plastic side mounts which you can slide in the inside of the alu stiffeners depending on the different lipos you fly?

Last edited by Thomas.Heiss; 03-27-2015 at 07:03 AM..
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Old 03-29-2015, 03:52 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas.Heiss View Post
I can now answer some of my questions.

bottom base platter: 1mm
upper platter: 1mm

Personally I would have loved if the carbon, at least base platters, would have been a bit thicker (maybe 2,5-3mm).


Crash proof:
I can imagine that generally spoken there might be two to three weak points for possible motor arm breaks.

...
3rd: Directly on the base platter with the side extensions, where the arm is hold with three screws.
...
I pray to god that neither the 2nd nor the 3rd options happens on a crash.

To avoid a possible crack on the bottom base platters side attachments I gladly would have choosen platters with 2,5-3mm thickness.
If it might crack you have to un-screw the whole frame

Slighty multiple crashes / fall out of the sky within stability blue mode (not too bad/high) - e.g 1-2 lipos where the motor stopped after 1-2 minutes) into grass - one time with rollover and 3rd crash option happend:

The bottom base platter broke where the front arms are mounted below to the 2-3 arm screws.

Broke two times at the edge of the thin carbon borders (below - 3mm - and middle - 1mm - points from the side) at one front arm.

Will upload picture laters.


So I can answer another question myself:
Yes, the bottom plate is definitely too thin, arm attachements are too small at the borders too (only 1mm middle to the side).

What a fun to completely un-screw the chassis and re-implant everything into a new chassis (arms, boards, landing legs, etc.)

And now to pay 12$ for a only 1mm thin carbon platter MH-20QX005LF which will brake very soon again at this weak spot...looks to be the wrong concept to me?!?

Last edited by Thomas.Heiss; 03-30-2015 at 04:15 AM..
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Old 09-12-2015, 04:24 AM   #8 (permalink)
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From thread: https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.p...37&postcount=9


Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnCC View Post
it sounds like they engineered the frame incorrectly for 200qx.
I had no luck so far to find a CAD expert to help engineer a new 2-3mm base plate and getting rid of foldable arm construction.
Tried it on RC-Line German forum - may try some other forums...


It needs thicker 2-3mm carbon as well as "more (full) carbon material" with more distance to the holes / borders where the arms are screwed into.


A better base plate construction would be to get rid of the massive foldable length holes.
Full carbon material with only small holes (instead of long borders) would make the base plate construction a lot better.

Only 1mm carbon is IMHO still too thin.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnCC View Post
so maybe they have fixed the frame since then (or I just didn't crash hard enough).
No they did not

Attached in the above thread you can find a picture of the original MH carbon frame base plate from Heli-Nation.com.
Sorry can't upload images twice in two threads!


I marked the "foldable arm area" with red circle, where the thin 1mm carbon easily brakes within this area / borders.

It is is way too small and too near to the holes.
Too less (full) carbon around the borders.


Will upload real pictures of my broken MH base plate at a later time.

Thomas
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Old 10-06-2015, 07:17 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Thomas... it looks like microheli may have took note:

http://www.microheli.com/blade-200-q...de-200-qx.html
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Old 10-07-2015, 06:13 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Wow, thanks for notifying me about this JohnCC!

Sorry I still have not put all my taken detail pictures about build & crash onto this thread....


How thick are the (two) bottom plates? Arms look thicker...3mm?


New frame even WITH the nice and compatible fiberglass canopy :-)
Very very nice and unique over most carbon only plate FPV racers WITHOUT canopies.
1:0 MH vs Armattan 180.

The MH frame even had the proper alu standoff mounts for the 200QX ESC board, which Armattan does NOT provide, as well as the RX board.
2:0 MH vs Armattan 180.


LG:
I really liked the look of the old MH frame landing legs.
Would be nice if they could be used and some holes are provided at the base plate.


Motor mount:
It seems from the pictures the motor arm holes may be round instead of square??? Are they?

If yes, guys that may cost you 200QX motors + ESC boards as corrupted electronics (e.g burnt Mosfets) if not handled with 1000% carefulness: https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.p...2&postcount=72

Motor mounts for 200QX motors are IMHO only safe if done in the HH mount (square) way. Hopefully 3:0 MH vs Armattan 180?

---------------------------------------

Meanwhile I really REGRET transplanting the 200QX electronics to 3rd party carbon frames (which HH seems to give no warranty on anyways) instead of getting (better) custom electronic components for the Armattan 180 frame from the very first start / frame buy.

---------------------------------------

Too late (for me) - MicroHeli do not seem just to re-engineer / fix the bottom/top plate construction of the old MH chassis
Probably it can't be done that easily with all that specific arm screws...


As well as I did not send the frame back within 14 days un-used (internet buy) after seeing the weak points to CANCEL the transaction nor did I send it back within 6 months after the dealer telephone discussion.
The dealer didn't want to take it back even within the 14 days period because of crash.


I can only try to send an email / letter to the dealer + MicroHeli with some pictures and my hopes for any goodwill transactions > 6 months??? Time for a little bit of dreaming :-)


In the meanwhile I will not completely give up my idea about maybe CAD bottom plate re-engineering :-)

Thomas
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Old 10-07-2015, 10:20 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Just wanted to let MicroHeli know that I am feeling like an alpha / beta tester now :-)

I can't believe that the V2 frame has been engineered without not reading any technical details on this (or my other threads) on this forum or getting big attention from other customers about V1 daily base plate breakages?


Of course my seller MH partner shop can't do anything for me - had a phone call today.
They also could have not done much for me within the first 14 days / 6 months (after the break) besides offering me the IMHO "wrong engineered 1mm thin" old frame base plate for discount.


My plan now is to write to MicroHeli with included pictures for any trade-in / discounted / (free) upgrade selling on MH goodwill basis.

I pray to god that they take my email seriously and are able to make suggestions.

I really hate throwing ~87EUR out of the window


I am interested to hear what other MH V1 frame customers are planning to do?

Thomas
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Old 10-08-2015, 09:56 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas.Heiss View Post
Just wanted to let MicroHeli know that I am feeling like an alpha / beta tester now :-)

I can't believe that the V2 frame has been engineered without not reading any technical details on this (or my other threads) on this forum or getting big attention from other customers about V1 daily base plate breakages?


Of course my seller MH partner shop can't do anything for me - had a phone call today.
They also could have not done much for me within the first 14 days / 6 months (after the break) besides offering me the IMHO "wrong engineered 1mm thin" old frame base plate for discount.


My plan now is to write to MicroHeli with included pictures for any trade-in / discounted / (free) upgrade selling on MH goodwill basis.

I pray to god that they take my email seriously and are able to make suggestions.

I really hate throwing ~87EUR out of the window


I am interested to hear what other MH V1 frame customers are planning to do?

Thomas
I pass this on to somebody that should be able to help you out with these issues.
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Old 10-21-2015, 03:34 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas.Heiss View Post
Just wanted to let MicroHeli know that I am feeling like an alpha / beta tester now :-)

I can't believe that the V2 frame has been engineered without not reading any technical details on this (or my other threads) on this forum or getting big attention from other customers about V1 daily base plate breakages?


Of course my seller MH partner shop can't do anything for me - had a phone call today.
They also could have not done much for me within the first 14 days / 6 months (after the break) besides offering me the IMHO "wrong engineered 1mm thin" old frame base plate for discount.


My plan now is to write to MicroHeli with included pictures for any trade-in / discounted / (free) upgrade selling on MH goodwill basis.

I pray to god that they take my email seriously and are able to make suggestions.

I really hate throwing ~87EUR out of the window


I am interested to hear what other MH V1 frame customers are planning to do?

Thomas
Hi Thomas.Heiss,

Please contact Microheli Live Support:

http://www.microheli.com/index.php?route=common/store

They'll help you to solve your issues if you care!
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Old 02-08-2016, 05:11 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnCC View Post
Thomas... it looks like microheli may have took note:

http://www.microheli.com/blade-200-q...de-200-qx.html
This is a short introduction with pictures in German of the new MH racing frame MH-20QX005FK:
http://www.kopterforum.de/topic/4729...i/#entry693005

3mm arms
1,25mm plates / decks (Graupner Alpha 300Q looks to be at least ~2mm).


I would love to see full (zoomed) pictures of the clear bottom and top plates and engineered wholes/sliders for taking the folding arms (to be able to compare to the weeker V1 bottom plate frame construction).

Greetings

Thomas
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Old 02-09-2016, 09:06 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Does the improved microheli frame hurt flight times?
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Old 08-19-2016, 11:59 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Smile zealheli frame 79$

Look good



ZealHeli.com 200QX CF Frame: Demo Flight (2 min 14 sec)
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Old 02-12-2017, 03:33 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Shoot.

I just bought a V1 frame without reading this thread.

It only costs $35 so no biggie I guess.

Are the main complaints from flying or from crashing?

I really don't care about the folding arms so I'm thinking about beefing every thing up with some ShoeGoo.
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Old 02-17-2017, 05:36 AM   #18 (permalink)
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My "crash" (I was more into hovering in blue stability mode and testing range and then it dropped out of the sky - not too high) was because of the bad <31,25mm (25mm) Blade copper antenna.

You will get IMHO a very hard life trying to mount the (non-coax) short antenna on the V1 MH frame.

I had to solder a new (much longer) copper antenna to the Blade board, which I tried to mount at the back, so really the antenna piece is sticking out of the frame and it's folding arms and is not shielded by both top and down bottom carbon plates.
My first range tests on ground where not too bad; I would have been interested to test in air.

If you try to mount the small 31,25mm Blade to the side, the folding arm is in it's way.

"Flying" for itself is great, even on 2s 500mah, as I really really liked the cool MH canopy, which was reason number one to buy the frame. The feeling with the frame+canopy was a bit different. I did not miss the diffuse Blade canopy for lights.

-----------------------------


Please be VERY VERY careful trying to mount the motors in the arms.
The motors will be turning when you try to tighten them (at the last 20-30%).
Don't do that! Use a plier to stop the turning.
Otherwise you will corrupt the motor windings internally (you might not see them corrupted), and when you finally try to arm the throttle, the Blade ESC board will defenitely burn (ESC + resistor).

I almost regret having tried to mount the Blade electronics from the MH (with the 4 finished mounted MH arms) one more time to the Armattan Morphite 180 frame (3mm, really stable).


If I were you, I would either sell all the Blade components (for the original Blade plastic chassis) or use the Rakon Heli carbon frame.
The Rakon arms have the squares, which are really really needed for the original Blade motors (to prevent turning when tightening).
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