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180CFX Blade 180CFX Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 06-04-2015, 12:42 PM   #21 (permalink)
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You don't get any negative pitch in normal mode, only in IU. At least when the throttle is up high enough ti get the heli off the ground. Mine takes off just past mid stick, since mid stick is center pitch it will start to decend just before 0 pitch, since it starts to decend just before i get to mid stick...if that makes any sense lol.

Im not very knowledgeable on this stuff or the best at explaining it, but im pretty sure you'll be better off practicing getting used to the way it fliez and forgetting the settings except for d/r. Those will tame it down, also make sure you're adding expo, you can move it to the negative which will make it respond faster.
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Old 06-04-2015, 02:33 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Stop flying in Normal mode.

The collective is too sensitive in Normal, especially when moving the stick down. I no longer land in Normal mode. Idle Up is easier to control. I take off in Normal, but fly and land in Idle Up.

I would set up:
Expo=0
D/R=70%
Idle up with the 25% headspeed.

Landings can be tricky. Too land, hover 1" off the ground, then hit Throttle Hold.
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Old 06-04-2015, 03:03 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I didnt read the whole thread, and I dont have my 180 yet.. but did anyone mention tuning your pitch curve? ? Instead of a liner curve, make it S curved (S shape in stunt mode). S curve will help with pitchy collective. Play with expo and DR. Fight in idle 1, land with TH

Just like the mcpx, pop it into a hover, these micros cant handle much rotor wash
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Old 06-04-2015, 03:03 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Another suggestion (and just a suggestion)....

Grab a copy of RF7.5, pick a big, sensitive heli. I've been using the Mikado 480 Extreme from Johnny31297. It happens to have a very sensitive tail and lively disc. Run the physics to 135%, the wind to 6 mph and turbulance to 130%. That combination will add enough realistic variability to keep on your toes and burn powerful heli handling into the brain. Everything is immediately transferable to the real deal.

Anyway I find it very effective.
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Old 06-04-2015, 05:15 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eightythree View Post
I didnt read the whole thread, and I dont have my 180 yet.. but did anyone mention tuning your pitch curve? ? Instead of a liner curve, make it S curved (S shape in stunt mode). S curve will help with pitchy collective. Play with expo and DR. Fight in idle 1, land with TH

Just like the mcpx, pop it into a hover, these micros cant handle much rotor wash
It's been mentioned but the sound it what freaks out the op from what I gather. The pitch curve adjustment makes the most sense but to each their own.
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Old 06-04-2015, 08:21 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I have reprogrammed the esc for mine and it is a lot calmer. Of course you need to code throttle curves as well as pitch curves, but once setup it is a much calmer bird to fly.

If the other suggested tx adjustments don't help, you will just have to find a PC to make the esc change. It is really simple once you get the Castle Link connected. Do you have a local Library you can get to? They probably have a PC you can use, and maybe some help doing it.

Good luck,
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Old 06-14-2015, 09:20 PM   #27 (permalink)
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I'm 61, love this helicopter.
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Old 06-15-2015, 09:23 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Interesting thread about age and trying to slow things down, incidentally Iím 84. I fly 130X (when they went out of production I stockpiled a few), Synergy 550E, and my used 180CFX. The 180 weight in relation to the blade size + the motor KV really determines the head speeds that work. I like GOV, set @ 4200, 4600 & 5000. If you get much under 4200 you get into the difficult collective management area. Thatís right, full package on all 3 flight modes. Castle allows a slow Spoolup setting in Normal. Once U have these settings you need to establish the Dual Rates and Expo that feel good to you and everyone is different.

Don S.
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Old 06-15-2015, 04:14 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Default Love Hate Relationship

Well I played around with some of the suggestions here. What seemed to help the most was setting the dual rates at 60, expo for aileron and elevator at 20 and toned the pitch curve down slightly. I got some nice flights in at those settings.

But this heli is still frustrating me quite a bit. In particular the servos are a pain in the but. I did the servo saver mod and changed out the gears for metal gears from Lynx. But the servo arms seem to slip way too easy. I spend as much time resetting the servos as I do flying. At I am not talking about having major crashes. If the blades even come into slight contact with anything I have to pull the servos, reset the arms and check the centering. And now one of the servos has frozen up somewhere inside. The metal gears are still undamaged but it is locked up internally.

And with the servo saver arms constantly rotating the splines have worn and they don't engage well any more.

And getting at the arms to reset everything means removing the servos which is a pain as well. All of the servos need other stuff removed in order to get at them.

I love this heli when it is flying well but it is still very quick and unforgiving and especially the fragility of the whole servo business is annoying.
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Old 06-15-2015, 06:21 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCflyer View Post
But the servo arms seem to slip way too easy. I spend as much time resetting the servos as I do flying.
.
I have felt your pain. My stock arms with saver mods where always doing the same.
When I switched to the hawk servos I got some lynx servo savers. No more slipping unless in a crash. Don't knows if it was the new arms or servo, but no more pain now.
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Old 06-16-2015, 06:51 AM   #31 (permalink)
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When I switched out the gears for metal gears I used the Lynx set of gears which come with their servo saver arms. But before that I had done the servo saver mod. I had slippage problems with both. Now I have ordered the Hawk RC servos since I have one frozen servo now and did not want to replace only one of the cyclic servos with something with different specs.

The servo situation has been my biggest issue with this heli. I have had other breakage but nothing that has been a major expense or as much of a consistent pain as the servos. Besides the fact that the servos seem to get messed up too easily it is also an aggravation trying to get at the servos and servo arms every time they need attention, which is often.
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Old 06-16-2015, 11:18 AM   #32 (permalink)
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I'm confused by the whole "even if the blades barely hit anything" comment. If they're slipping in flight then they need to be tightened onto the output shaft a little more. If they're slipping because your blades are hitting something that isn't air then they're just doing what they're supposed to do. I have plastic gears with lynx servo savers tightened just past the point where the screw started to encounter resistance and I've yet to have one slip in flight. Haven't crashed or had any tip overs so I don't know how effective they'll be in that case but I'm glad to not have found out so far.
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Old 06-16-2015, 12:06 PM   #33 (permalink)
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I have tightened the servo horns down pretty snug on the output shaft every time I have had to reposition them. There was no play whatsoever. I have had the servo horns rotate on that shaft from various light contact incidents which ordinarily would cause no damage in my opinion.

For instance when hovering and practicing precision landings if I come down a little harder than I should have instead of a nice gentle landing. I am not talking break the skids hard just a bit vigorous bounce and all of a sudden it won't lift off again smoothly because a servo arm slipped. Or when landing maybe I get too close to the edge of the driveway and I mow a little grass. Next thing you know it there is less lift because a servo horn slipped. Or if I tilt a little on landing or takeoff and the blade scrapes a little. I even had servo arms slip while I was putting on the canopy and inadvertently touched the linkage.

I expect the servo saver mod to come into play in the event of some solid contact that might otherwise break the servo gears not just light brushes with stuff that should ordinarily let me keep flying. And every time the servo horns slip the splines wear a little more and they slip even easier. It would not be so bad if the servo horns were accessible without removal of the servo and other parts that are in the way.

And I have made sure they were snugged down pretty good every time.
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Old 06-16-2015, 12:09 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Take a close look to see if you are opening the horn at the split by over tightening. What you are describing should not cause a slip.
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Old 06-16-2015, 01:28 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Agreed, except for tipovers which are basically crashes the horns should be staying put. Keep in mind that blades are only made for hittin air so anything more solid than air is gonna have the chance of breaking something and that's just the way it is.
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Old 06-16-2015, 03:04 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Default Relative Fragility I Guess

I understand what you're saying and I expect damage from most any form of "crash". I readily admit to being barely beyond pure beginner. Maybe if it wasn't for the really bad access to the servo arms it would be less frustrating. But I am really convinced that this thing is really fragile in the servo and its linkage area. Even with the servo savers I now have one servo that is locked up tight somewhere in the lower case. The metal upper gears themselves are fine.

Maybe it is a case of over tightening. Not sure. Every time the servo horns slipped and got looser I would snug them down good when resetting them and checking the centering.

I just really don't believe that some of the incidents causing servo horn and servo problems have been bad enough to cause this much aggravation.

And like I have said before I like this bird when it is flying. Mine seems to be rock solid in hover, holds its heading real tight and is responding nicely to my control input. Although it is still a bit quick for my skill set. I sometimes find myself struggling to get it back the way I want it if I over control or make some other mistake. I graduated to this from an MCPX which I was doing fine with. I just want to fly more and spend less time repairing.
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Old 06-16-2015, 03:37 PM   #37 (permalink)
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maybe you just need a bit more time with the MCPX? You shouldn't really dirt nap the 180 in normal orientation. The MCPX is good for everything but flying backwards because of the tail motor - but it sure can do inverted circuits and half piro flips and stuff. And landing the 180 is an art in itself. Close to the deck in its wash the fat bastard really wants to sink and bounce. The lower headspeed makes it a bit unstable to boot. What fun! I've been landing now in idle 1 (4600RPM), giving a bit of down elevator to keep the tail out of the dirt and hitting throttle hold.
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Old 06-17-2015, 10:59 PM   #38 (permalink)
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You could try tweaking the cyclic response parameter

Assign Bind to aux2 and reverse it if using a spektrum radio.

Switch radio to flight log page.

Hold Collective and Cyclic to down~right position and hold Aux2 for a few seconds until the swash jumps and the radio displays a menu.
Watch the timing or you could end up changing option 1 slightly.

Select option 4 and dial that one down until you get a good feel with tx at full rates and a little exp.
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Old 06-17-2015, 11:48 PM   #39 (permalink)
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you actually should fly whatever you are comfortable with until you can fly in all orientations and crashing is rare. Once you get to that point your skills will allow you to fly even a twitchy bird.....it may be a little more difficult but your muscle memory will get you there.

If you are going to fly the 180 though and since you asked people who are more advanced fliers than yourself. I recommend listening to what they say. The answer to your problem is indeed better remedied by lowering your pitch. Think about what pitch does. The more pitch you have gives you more or lift (To a point that is....too much pitch and you can actually have your blades start fighting the wind instead of cutting through). You say it rockets up too fast....lower the pitch and it's impossible for it to do so. Also since there is less pitch in the blades your aileron will also have less overall travel so when you start flying the heli it won't dart off so hard in the direction you tell it to go.
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Old 06-18-2015, 07:26 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Default I have been paying attention

As I mentioned in post #29 I have been paying attention to what everybody has had to say. I have lowered the pitch curve somewhat and set dual rates and expo to help. These adjustments allowed me to do a better job flying this heli. I fully expect to have to deal with crash damage as I try to do new things. I don't expect to improve my flying without paying a price. I still fly the MCPX's for practice as well since the 180 spends time on the bench while parts are on order. I just wish this heli wasn't so easily damaged especially in situations where I really haven't "crashed". And the servos are the biggest headache.

Thanks everyone for the advice and opinions.
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