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180CFX Blade 180CFX Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 06-18-2015, 07:46 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Don't forget it is supposed to be fun. Excessive bench time gets fatiguing. Early this season when I was super rusty I dirt napped both my 180's on the same battery. Quite the accomplishment . Heck I still had 1:30 on my timer after the second crash. Left the house with 8 charged lipos and two perfectly flying 180's and went home with 2 carcasses and 7 1/2 charged batteries. I hit the sim pretty hard for a few days because it really only gets fun when your crash ratio gets better than 15:1 or 20:1. I'm back at 20:1 thankfully. Spending too much time on the bench just isn't fun. Hence the argument that you concentrate on practicing with an abuse sink like a sim or MCPX. The 180 is small but not really designed for crashes.
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Old 03-26-2016, 12:55 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilotrob View Post
Change you pitch curve to 1-45%,2-55%,3-65%,4-75% and H-95% on both normal and IU1. This seems to be a pretty good sport flying setup. (You can also try and fly it in normal mode. I didn't like it) Don`t attempt 3D flying with this setup. Give it a try if you want, it should tame it down for some mild sport flying.
I set my pitch curve to the above with my throttle at 25% across N and 100% IU2. Magic! It is a tame sport flyer almost close to a high tech FP, love it!

Great POST ON THE PITCH CURVE, Thank you very much!
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Old 03-27-2016, 12:16 AM   #43 (permalink)
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I set my pitch curve to the above with my throttle at 25% across N and 100% IU2. Magic! It is a tame sport flyer almost close to a high tech FP, love it!

Great POST ON THE PITCH CURVE, Thank you very much!
Glad I could help. I ran across this pitch curve back when I was flying my MCPX.
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Old 09-09-2017, 07:27 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Man, I watched the video ....tried the settings and almost demolished my 180! It was completely uncontrollable with those settings. I don't know if mine is just different than others or what.
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Old 09-10-2017, 04:42 PM   #45 (permalink)
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If you really want to tame it down see the blog link in my signature.

-John
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Old 10-05-2017, 08:25 AM   #46 (permalink)
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You aren't the odd man out..my 180 is a hanger queen. She's been to Horizon once and still doesn't fly.
Part of the issue could be that I'm using OpenTX, however, it works fine for everything else I fly EXCEPT the 180.
I'll get it going eventually, I just don't have my heart in the hobby right now.
if you get it figure out let me know.
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Old 10-17-2017, 07:15 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by FR4-Pilot View Post
If you really want to tame it down see the blog link in my signature.

-John
Thanks John,
I've seen your blog but hadn't really read through it, I'm on page two right now and it made me want to keep my 180(s) to mess with over the winter and see if I can't get them tamed down a little.

Mark
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Old 01-25-2018, 12:02 AM   #48 (permalink)
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you may want to consider the 130 S it is pretty tough and flies nice . you can even use 450 3S from your 180cfx !
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Old 03-06-2018, 12:36 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ds1rc View Post
Interesting thread about age and trying to slow things down, incidentally Iím 84. I fly 130X (when they went out of production I stockpiled a few), Synergy 550E, and my used 180CFX. The 180 weight in relation to the blade size + the motor KV really determines the head speeds that work. I like GOV, set @ 4200, 4600 & 5000. If you get much under 4200 you get into the difficult collective management area. Thatís right, full package on all 3 flight modes. Castle allows a slow Spoolup setting in Normal. Once U have these settings you need to establish the Dual Rates and Expo that feel good to you and everyone is different.



Don S.


84?! Wow, Kudos to you sir. Iím 72 and still enjoying this addictive hobby as well. I like my 180CFX a lot and agree with most of the advice given to the OP in this thread. This little bird incorporates design changes that mostly address all the grief I experienced with the 130X. Spent a lot of money on that one. What I donít like about the 180CFX has to do with recently ďupdatingĒ the receiver firmware and finding that the servo controls are now all scrambled. Itís like someone switched the servo leads to different ports on the ASX. Will have to chase that one. If I canít solve it, Iíll probably get a microSpirit or microBrain. May you experience many, many more flights.



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Old 02-28-2019, 04:27 AM   #50 (permalink)
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Wow, FR4-Pilot !
I am amazed at how much I learned reading your blog:

Taming the Blade 180 CFX

An amazingly concise and informative discussion.
I have been looking for a heli somewhat smaller than my Blade 300X and the 180CFX together with your blog looks irresistible.
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Old 02-28-2019, 11:04 AM   #51 (permalink)
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Thanks Tony!

Just trying to give a little something back

The 180 really becomes more user/intermediate friendly when it's tamed down
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Old 02-28-2019, 01:37 PM   #52 (permalink)
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I read this and lived by it back when I was learning helis.

I can tell you I think 80%of helifreak people could take some advice from this for all of their helis. The ridiculous head speeds people talk about to do mediocre sport flying and get 3 to 4 mins is comical.

So many beginners get lured into the headspeed trap thinking they are Tareq Alsadi. I get it. I makes some thing easier when trying 3d. But when you can barely fly sport, please guys, turn it down a notch or 5.
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Old 03-01-2019, 12:10 PM   #53 (permalink)
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is this information applicable to the trio 180cfx too? I spooled mine up and quickly spooled down. it was terrifying compared to my brushless nano
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Old 03-01-2019, 12:47 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6spowahhh View Post
is this information applicable to the trio 180cfx too? I spooled mine up and quickly spooled down. it was terrifying compared to my brushless nano
I never did any of the esc tuning with my trio but i did fly it at less power then the manual said so.. it was a fun heli. try changing your Norm to like 0-25-25-25-25 then stunt 1 to 25-25-25-25 see how that is. it might still spool up kinda fast at first but should settle down one its up to speed. see if that is good. I think 25 flat was where i flew mine most of the time either 25 or 30. you can try both.
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Old 03-01-2019, 01:42 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6spowahhh View Post
is this information applicable to the trio 180cfx too? I spooled mine up and quickly spooled down. it was terrifying compared to my brushless nano
While I don't have a Trio to confirm, from what I've read there shouldn't be any differences regarding the power system and the Talon15 settings. I would hope/think that with 3 blades there would be a little more lift down in the 3000 RPM range, where basic usable performance was beginning to drop off on the 2 blade version.

That being said, If Blade wanted to send me one I'd be more than happy to do some testing and verification I'd also update the blog accordingly

Last edited by FR4-Pilot; 03-01-2019 at 01:56 PM..
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Old 03-26-2019, 05:47 AM   #56 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by FR4-Pilot View Post
Thanks Tony!

Just trying to give a little something back

The 180 really becomes more user/intermediate friendly when it's tamed down
Hi FR4-Pilot,
Your blog on taming the 180CFX has me puzzled at one point regarding modifying the lead from the ESC to the Rx as described in the attachment to this posting. Is it just a case of cutting the lead and inserting a standard male/female servo connector?
As you speculated, another topic for a blog?
Any information gratefully received
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Old 03-26-2019, 08:02 PM   #57 (permalink)
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That's correct. Just two things to keep in mind:
  • The order of the wires is different on standard and micro servo connectors.
  • You'll then need an adapter (like the bind plug adapter already on the heli), but the wires need to be larger in diameter to properly carry the BEC current to the receiver and servos from the ESC. The bind plug wires are rather thin as they aren't required to carry current to power the flight electronics.
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Last edited by FR4-Pilot; 03-27-2019 at 09:44 AM..
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Old 03-26-2019, 09:54 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Thanks FR4-Pilot for this thoughtful and informative blog. I decided just to modify DR and expo as opposed to all your suggestions and found a world of difference in taming the sensitive inputs. I am running NORM: DR 60 Expo 15, IU1 DR 75 Expo 10, IU2 (which I never use) as manual. I was still having sensitivity to pitch so I tried to compress the pitch curve around center while maintaining full 100% travel (PC 0, 35, 50, 65, 100). Is there a better way to deal with Pitch softening? This thing drops like a rock when I transition from forward flight to hovering.
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Old 03-27-2019, 02:41 PM   #59 (permalink)
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I would return that pitch curve back to 0-25-50-75-100 and see if it still drops when you transition from FF to hover. Currently, you have 65 in (let's call it) stick position 4 (in a 5-point pitch curve). Position 4 is where you probably spend most of your flying time (on average). When you are in FF you have an additional source of lift helping out - translational lift. Around position 4 is also where you hover, but you have no translational lift in a hover, and 65 might not be quite enough on it's own.

Overall collective pitch sensitivity is going to be greater with higher head speeds, period, especially if you keep the pitch range at -100% and +100%. Either use DR to knock it down a bit or flatten the pitch somewhat or try lowering the RPM. The latter will definitely reduce collective sensitivity.

You could also try a PC of 5-25-50-75-95 and see if that helps. This softens the max pitch a bit while keeping hovering pitch around a normal level.

Also, is yours a stock heli (around 195 grams AUW) or is it modified and possibly heavier ?

Last edited by FR4-Pilot; 03-27-2019 at 03:08 PM..
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Old 03-29-2019, 05:11 AM   #60 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FR4-Pilot View Post
That's correct. Just two things to keep in mind:
  • The order of the wires is different on standard and micro servo connectors.
  • You'll then need an adapter (like the bind plug adapter already on the heli), but the wires need to be larger in diameter to properly carry the BEC current to the receiver and servos from the ESC. The bind plug wires are rather thin as they aren't required to carry current to power the flight electronics.
Thanks for the response, FR4-Pilot.
The next question relates to the tail servo. I have only had a visual look at my pre-loved 180CFX with no electronics switched on at this stage and I expected to find, as with the Blade 300X, that with the tail rotor blades at the zero-pitch position the servo arm would be at right angles to the tail boom with equal rotation of the servo arm available in the clockwise and anticlockwise.
On the 180CFX it looks as though the tail servo arm varies from parallel to the tail boom to being at right angles to the tail boom over the limits of rotation of the servo. For zero-pitch of the tail rotor blades the servo arm is at 45 degrees to the tail boom.
Is this correct? Any information gratefully received.
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