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Blade 230S Blade 230S Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 09-07-2015, 09:55 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default UPDATED: Here's what the 230S instructions left out!

Everybody that has received their new 230 S has had a chance to "air it out" and some have found a few issues. Mine was pretty close out of the box but started to develop a drift to the right in Normal Mode which required cycle to negate. When switching to Stunt 1, it wasn't a minor drift, it was flying away! In Stunt 2, if was flying away even FASTER!

I read everything several times and decided that I would do my patented (not really) No Flight Trim Flight which consist of tying the heli to the floor and going through through the factory instruction process. While this method works incredibly well on a 200SR X, the 230 S with it's larger blades has too much power and distorts the frame/skids causing you to add cyclic in order to keep it level. So, that's not the solution!

Decided to do a real trim flight early this morning when there was no wind and had mixed results the first time. The drift now was to the left instead of the right and in idle up, it was scary to keep it in the air!

Second time was non-eventful but worked so well I thought I'd mention a few details for those pilots that have not been successful with the process.

Below are the exact steps I used which should help anybody trying to fix the drift issue:

1. Start with everything turned OFF and the flight battery not connected.

2. Find a real LEVEL pad to place the heli on for initialization. DID I SAY LEVEL?

3. Turn on your radio, SET ALL TRIMS to CENTER POSITION.
DO THIS PROCEDURE in NORMAL MODE, LOW RATES. (I'm using a DX6G2)

4. Plug in the flight battery on the heli and let it sit there until completely initialized.

5. Place the Canopy on the heli.

At this point the radio is on, the heli is initialized and you should have your throttle hold ON.

6. Check servo movement on the heli by moving all sticks in all directions.

7. Only by coincidence, my step 7 is the same as the TRIM FLIGHT step number 7 so move your sticks left bottom left, right top left then press the Bind/Panic switch until the swash does a dance indicating it is in trim flight mode.

NOW follow the factory instructions with a slow spool-up and a lift off. Read SLOWLY, the computer is trying to think so don't give it to many instructions while getting up in the air.

8. As you climb slowly, (you art trying to do this with NO WIND), work your way slightly above MID Throttle STICK (50%). Since you are in Normal Mode, the heli will continue to climb as this move will be applying positive pitch. STAR YOUR TIMER and as it sill climbs, it will gain in altitude until it is way up there! If you need to bring it down, slowly descend. When you can see it again, work the throttle back up above 50%
Avoid any major cyclic input (right stick) but if your heli is drifting, apply enough to keep it in the same relative place.

UPDATE: I have now done another trim flight on another 230 S and found that I am flying considerably above mid-stick which accounts for the "way up there" statement. I do this to make sure that it is truly above mid-stick but you may find that you can do it without flying as high. On the other hand, maybe my success is due to holding it in a hover "way up there" since the trim flight data is being saved in 1 flight. Many pilots have reported multiple flight being necessary before it saves the data. Use common sense and do not fly beyond your capabilities.
BTW, the second 230S is flying as rock solid as my first one so the process does work! Good Flying!

9. DO THIS FOR at least 1 Minute, the longer the better! I went 2 + minutes!

10. Slowly bring the heli back down and land as softly as you can. Spool down completely as in don't touch the heli and MOST IMPORTANTLY, DO NOT TURN ON THROTTLE HOLD.
if you do, you will not save the new data and you'll need to start over.

11. Now that the heli is on the ground, you haven't touched it, nothing is rotating, it is perfectly still, PRESS and HOLD the Bind/Panic switch until the swash does another quick dance and the new data will be saved.

12. Unplug the flight battery, turn off the radio. Wait 10 seconds (really) and then turn the radio on, connect the flight battery, not too tight,
NOTE: you may want to install a fresh battery at this point depending how long your trim flight was (ON A LEVEL SURFACE) wait for initialization, reinstall canopy, set it down on the level surface again and start your flight.

13. Check your results..... the following characteristics should be in place:

In normal mode, should not drift in any direction and only SLIGHT input should be made to correct for position and altitude.

take her up 3 mistakes high and flip into idle up (stunt 1).

For those new to CP..... your throttle stick should be at 50%, the motor will increase in speed but the heli should not climb because your pitch is neutral at 50% stick position. (this is only partially true. Technically in normal mode there is a little positive pitch at 50% throttle). This will drop out when you switch to idle up as long as 50% is actually 0% pitch or neutral.

In Stunt 1 if you are at 50% on the stick, the heli will not climb, there will be an increase in motor rpm but the heli will stay at the same altitude. There should be no drift in any direction.

In Stunt 2, another slight increase in motor RPM will be noticed (at least on mine) but the stick is still at 50% so the heli should not change altitude. She should just sit there without drift, waiting for your next command.

If your trim flight procedure was successful, the 230 S will be ROCK SOLID and in my case, she now hovers hands off with no drift and no correction input. There was Zero wind so you might need a little correction if there is any wind.

IF this didn't work, Do it again until it does take a save. Or, it was not calm enough when the heli was gathering flight data. Remember, most of the time, the higher a heli climbs, the more chance for wind currents and being above 50% throttle with some positive pitch will require that you are "up there" with the potential wind.

Here's what I don't know yet.

1. Can this be done in any other modes..... probably not since you are calibrating the leveling capability of the electronics.

2. Will this solve a drift problem on a heli that has been crashed and you have not repaired it correctly...... probably not. If it is not 100% mechanically correct, you are wasting your time.

3. Do you really need to wait 10 seconds after the procedure before starting a real flight............ probably not, but I did.

4. Did I forget anything............ probably so but I tried to be as complete as possible so feel free to add your comments.

In closing, My 230 S flew OK out of the box but not anywhere near how she flys now. Since performing the above trim flight, the heli does exactly what I command with considerably more precision and response. This could become one of my favorite flyers if she hasn't already taken that position.

For those that still are having issue, take a deep breath and approach the problems 1 at a time. The 230 S is a fine heli and when you get it tuned up you will have many, many exceptional flights. This is part of the hobby so make your mental adjustments and have fun!

Thank you Horizon Hobby for and exception heli, in a very affordable price/performance category.



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Last edited by Bill_Van; 09-19-2015 at 01:37 PM.. Reason: Updated process of trim flight
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Old 09-07-2015, 10:44 AM   #2 (permalink)
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This needs to be a sticky! Great job !
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Old 09-07-2015, 10:57 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Spot on Bill!

I'm really loving this bird. I just can't get over how stable and precise this baby is. My new favorite for sure.

Once I did a few 60 second flight trims, it was rock solid just like you mentioned. It really does just sit there, awaiting my next command!
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Old 09-07-2015, 11:15 AM   #4 (permalink)
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i'll be testing this in a few minutes...

i'm just going to add trim, normal trim, till heli stays still. you should be able to test this in agility mode by trimming till the swash plate doesn't move on it's own.

side note: i'm using a taranis, so it may have slightly different values than a spektrum.

beastx for example checks your stick positions when it fires up and calls those zero. Ikon you set your sticks to it's preferred zero position in the software. I think the blade gyro could benefit from a little larger deadband. So that it stops being so sensitive around center.
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Old 09-07-2015, 11:39 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill_Van View Post
I read everything several times and decided that I would do my patented (not really) No Flight Trim Flight which consist of tying the heli to the floor and going through through the factory instruction process. While this method works incredibly well on a 200SR X, the 230 S with it's larger blades has too much power and distorts the frame/skids causing you to add cyclic in order to keep it level. So, that's not the solution!
Hello fellow Texan!

Sorry for the noob questions but here goes, anchoring by the skids so it can't take flight absolutely won't work? I'm definitely not comfortable sending it as high as step 8 implies. I don't care how dead the air is at ground level, here if you go above @ 150', there will be movement.

I bought mine last Tuesday, on Friday I flew it for the shop owner (he flew some too) and he said everything seems fine. Am I a lucky one where all is well out of the box? Using a DX7 if that makes any difference.


I don't pretend to know the ins and outs but it seems like a good write up, likely sticky material.
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Old 09-07-2015, 12:04 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I tried Bill Van's method still no joy.
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Old 09-07-2015, 12:20 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyin' Texan View Post
Hello fellow Texan!

Sorry for the noob questions but here goes, anchoring by the skids so it can't take flight absolutely won't work? I'm definitely not comfortable sending it as high as step 8 implies. I don't care how dead the air is at ground level, here if you go above @ 150', there will be movement.

I bought mine last Tuesday, on Friday I flew it for the shop owner (he flew some too) and he said everything seems fine. Am I a lucky one where all is well out of the box? Using a DX7 if that makes any difference.


I don't pretend to know the ins and outs but it seems like a good write up, likely sticky material.
And a good day to you from near San Antonio!

If you are good out of the box (I was) then this info might be good for the future. Mine started good but after a few batteries (break in?) it started to drift a little. Most would probably left it alone but in Stunt 1 and 2 it felt uncontrollable so I was motivated to make it right in all modes.

What was interesting was that my No Flight Trim Flight caused the drift to change from right to left. This is probably a result from the torque on the skids and frame while it was tied down at 75% throttle. This heli is just too powerful for that method. Remembering the process, I added left cyclic during the process to counter the torque induced flex which the electronics read as needing more in that direction! When I flew this morning, the result was exactly what I have tried to counter hence, left drift.

So the real answer is.... No! If you need to do a trim flight, it will be best if done in the air. While it sounds scary, in Normal mode, it is manageable.
As I mentioned, you can vary the throttle (below 50%) to bring it back down then take it back up a little above 50% to re-engage the data collection. If you do this, flying longer I believe will yield good results and give you a super stable heli.

As for your DX7, if you have it set up correctly, shouldn't matter at all. It's a good radio from what I've heard!

BTW, noob questions are good questions. You probably helped 50 pilots thinking the same but not knowing what to ask!

Thank you for your kind words, I'm trying to keep headaches to a minimum for those new to the hobby!
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Old 09-07-2015, 12:23 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Re: No Flight Trim Flight - just a thought, what if you temporarily set up a flat 50% pitch curve? Should be zero pitch and no or at least less flexing and twisting.
Edit - dumb question - should have realized that would not work.
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Old 09-07-2015, 12:38 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toddilgen View Post
I tried Bill Van's method still no joy.
Tell me what it's doing in detail and I'll see if I can help!
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Old 09-07-2015, 01:12 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Hi Bill really helpful post as my instruction manual did not even have the trim instructions. I am using a DX7s and my 230s flys very stable except it drifts backwards, if I release the cyclic stick. Will your trimming method work if I have to use forward stick to keep it in one spot during trimming. I do not want to risk other issues as it is reasonably
controllable. Thanks
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Old 09-07-2015, 02:41 PM   #11 (permalink)
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it was super windy out today, i used regular trim, it's flying great now.

too windy to tell if self stabilization was still or not.
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Old 09-07-2015, 04:20 PM   #12 (permalink)
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if tieing down the heli to do a trim flight works for the 200srx, but, the 230s has to much power to do this.........why would'nt you remove the blades to do the trim flight tied down?
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Old 09-07-2015, 05:03 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I tried this today except for the height-factor (backyard+windy+noob). I did more than once. It seemed to get better each time, but it was hard to know for sure due to the wind. Also I have a slight slope in my yard so I got some plywood and leveled out a make-shift landing pad

Ran out of battery on the last one so will fly again tonight and check it. Thanks for the help! Now if I could figure out my tx settings I'd be golden...
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Old 09-07-2015, 06:10 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteCloud View Post
if tieing down the heli to do a trim flight works for the 200srx, but, the 230s has to much power to do this.........why would'nt you remove the blades to do the trim flight tied down?
I've read that removing the blades also works but my goal was to keep the heli and all it's internal vibrations in place when I came up with the No Flight Trim Flight method.

Probably don't need to tie it down with the blades removed! You would want to disconnect the tail motor wires though. As you can see, all of a sudden the model is modified so far from a flying model that the trim flight isn't getting the data needed to provide that stable flight!

That does give me another idea though..... maybe a smaller set of blades (not as wide) would still provide the input but not the lift. I'll take a few measurements and see if 200sr x blades will fit. Don't want to add any shims as that can create an additional balance point.

Right now, it's flying so good I don't want to change anything! I do appreciate you causing me to think outside the box!
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Old 09-07-2015, 10:48 PM   #15 (permalink)
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200 srx main rotor blades are fixed pitch blades. They will not work on the 230s.
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Old 09-08-2015, 06:23 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadVad View Post
200 srx main rotor blades are fixed pitch blades. They will not work on the 230s.
This is true, but the built in pitch shouldn't matter since we are only looking for rotational mass. Since the heli is tied down, the 6 degree stock blades should just spin providing a load to the rotor/motor combo.

Tweaking the No Flight Trim Flight is for those that are not quite ready to do a real trim flight. Or, those that have a heli that is so out of sync that they can't get it off the ground. Thanks for your input. It always helps to spur on the thought process!
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Old 09-08-2015, 07:13 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Newdon suggested changing the pitch curve for the test flight such that it has a lot less lift. Why wouldn't that work? 50% might still be too much lift, but the idea should be valid on a CP heli like this one.

It wouldn't be an option for those using the DXe; you'd need a programmable transmitter for this idea.
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Old 09-08-2015, 08:34 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I did many trim flights before I was satisfied. I found that a short trim flight was better for me. I went maybe 30 seconds at the most and sat the 230 back down as soon as possible. Pushed the Bind button and waited for the swash to jump, then did a test flight and still had a slight drift to the left in normal mode, but IU 1 and IU 2 were dead on. I noticed that when I tried the longer trim flights it seemed like it would jump out of trim flight mode by itself and do a sudden hard drift to the left, but I could still grab it back with cyclic and get it back in a hover. I don't fly in normal mode at all, so I'm happy. Earlier on in my rc heli career I stayed in normal mode and was terrified to try IU 1 or IU 2. As I got a little more stick time I now feel the opposite and would much rather fly in IU 1 or IU 2. Anyways, this is just another opinion and I'm not trying to say who is right or wrong, this is just what worked best for me. Thanks
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Old 09-08-2015, 09:31 AM   #19 (permalink)
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As mentioned earlier I don't have a 230S to try my 50% flat pitch curve idea but just to clarify - the 50% pitch setting on a programmable TX (assuming the mechanical side - swash level at mid stick - is set up right) should result in zero degree blade pitch and close to no lift.
As bill_van says, if all you are looking for is rotational mass, the stock blades should be OK. Anyone feel like doing research? As always the suggestion comes with the usual 'try at your own risk'.

I guess I've never quite got a grip on how the 'no flight trim flight' can work. I've always assumed that the heli had to be in flight; I guess I'm about to find out - my 200SRX is having a hissy fit.
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Old 09-08-2015, 10:14 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newdon View Post
I guess I've never quite got a grip on how the 'no flight trim flight' can work. I've always assumed that the heli had to be in flight; I guess I'm about to find out - my 200SRX is having a hissy fit.
Pics (better yet video) or it didn't happen
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