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Old 02-17-2016, 04:06 PM   #21 (permalink)
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You are too kind, gunny.
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Old 02-17-2016, 04:25 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Very cool hack!
If Jeti came out with a radio with official JR Module support, I would probably dump my current radios and go Jeti. I do use the EzUhf and DSM2 module on my current radio in addition to the radios native signal.

-GN
Is your radio a Taranis?

If so it's 16ch... and the Taranis (FrSky) module is itself capable of 16ch also.

SOOOO GUESS WHAT?

On the Jeti, even the bare, 8ch, DS14, you can do PPM+16 out the back.... to this module. (In addition of course to your 8ch on the DS14) - Plus if I were a betting man, I'd say you likely could use a Jeti RX and the PPM in jack for your head tracking. His module bay kit includes the jack too.

HAHA! I nearly flipped when I saw that...

The options for PPM signal are ppm+8, ppm-8, ppm in and ppm+16.
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Old 02-17-2016, 06:22 PM   #23 (permalink)
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The sides of the bay have the thickest plastic, almost .4" thick.
I don't recall how you fabbed the module bay body, but I was thinking that since you are doing short runs anyhow, that a design change to incorporate a mount would be simple, as opposed to trying to bodge it onto what you have. Looks like a perfect use case for 3D printing, if you are not doing so already. Ironically, I can do very good printing, but have not learned the 3D CAD side yet . . .

- Tim
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Old 02-17-2016, 06:39 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I'm cutting the parts on a CNC router from solid materials. The big issue is that cutting the required voids will necessitate milling from both, possibly 3 sides of the material which makes machining the part exponentially more difficult with costs from machining shops being significantly increased because of it.
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Old 02-17-2016, 07:31 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I don't recall how you fabbed the module bay body, but I was thinking that since you are doing short runs anyhow, that a design change to incorporate a mount would be simple, as opposed to trying to bodge it onto what you have. Looks like a perfect use case for 3D printing, if you are not doing so already. Ironically, I can do very good printing, but have not learned the 3D CAD side yet . . .

- Tim
The other way than having an external antenna is to use an internal one. This I'm pretty sure is not standard, but it's in this radio highlighted.

On the module side nearly no modules use the internal antenna. If however yours does, the one you want to use, then finding proper placement and drilling a hole there for the coax and BNC connector would match up and let you put the real antenna wherever you like. (Top of the module bay, out the back of the back plate, or wherever else.)

Is the antenna going to be a telescopic long whip like antenna?

If so, I think you build up the top of the bay to accommodate it. (That's where you have to get funky drilling up from the bottom, and in from the side to pass the wire through.)

Do you have a pic of the module you'd want to pop in there?
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Old 02-17-2016, 10:15 PM   #26 (permalink)
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The last pin in the module bay is defined as antenna. It is the one closest to the bottom and was originally tied to the antenna. The connection shown in your picture is not part of the standard jr style module bay. Also, the antenna pin is somewhat of a legacy pin as modern radios do not have a suitable internal antenna. As a result, current modules do not use it.
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Old 02-18-2016, 10:47 PM   #27 (permalink)
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The other way than having an external antenna is to use an internal one. This I'm pretty sure is not standard, but it's in this radio highlighted.

On the module side nearly no modules use the internal antenna. If however yours does, the one you want to use, then finding proper placement and drilling a hole there for the coax and BNC connector would match up and let you put the real antenna wherever you like. (Top of the module bay, out the back of the back plate, or wherever else.)

Is the antenna going to be a telescopic long whip like antenna?

If so, I think you build up the top of the bay to accommodate it. (That's where you have to get funky drilling up from the bottom, and in from the side to pass the wire through.)

Do you have a pic of the module you'd want to pop in there?
As others have said, that's not the way JR modules have ever worked, and the goal here is not to butcher the module such that it is no longer usable in a "traditional" JR radio. There really isn't any need to overcomplicate this . . . module lead --> small lead -> antenna has worked for years, and still will. The only question is where to mount the antenna, and yes, likely a whip.

No pic of the module, but no need for one either . . . standard JR NET-50 or NET-72 . . .

- Tim
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Old 02-19-2016, 01:14 PM   #28 (permalink)
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I'm cutting the parts on a CNC router from solid materials. The big issue is that cutting the required voids will necessitate milling from both, possibly 3 sides of the material which makes machining the part exponentially more difficult with costs from machining shops being significantly increased because of it.
Exponentially? Seriously? Maybe use three vises with stops and a single program to do all 3 steps.

You're turning ~$1 of ABS, $2 of aluminum, some electronics from ebay, a bit of perfboard and maybe an hour of machine time into a $150 product. With a proper machine, you could make that part out of solid aluminum in probably 5 minutes.

Your product is WAY overpriced for what it is. I'd make my own using nothing but a hammer before I gave you $150.

I suggested 3d printing the socket a while back but honestly, given the cost of ABS it is probably MUCH cheaper to machine it.
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Old 02-19-2016, 03:12 PM   #29 (permalink)
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I'm happy with mine as well as my 4 Jeti family...

Thanks to this module I am about to set up Jeti to Jeti wireless trainer, with the master flying a V911 heli. (And I know this setup will work for all my existing DSM2 / DSMX / FrSky / and FlySky as well...)

We could argue price / method / etc... But that's a big change for Jeti and a really big value to me.

Its sturdier than I thought, more fun than I thought, and works at least as good as I thought going in, so I'm a happy customer on both the Jeti and Module fronts.



Besides there's some value at least to me to know I'm one of the only two guys on the planet to have flown a V911 on their Jeti. That alone, while not by itself worth the price of admission, is certainly 1000 times more fun than you'd expect...
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Old 02-19-2016, 03:22 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Your product is WAY overpriced for what it is. I'd make my own using nothing but a hammer before I gave you $150..
By all means, if you think you can build one, please do.
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Old 02-19-2016, 04:24 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Your product is WAY overpriced for what it is. I'd make my own using nothing but a hammer before I gave you $150.
Please keep comments respectful and refrain from price-bashing
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Old 02-19-2016, 04:34 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Exponentially? Seriously? Maybe use three vises with stops and a single program to do all 3 steps.

You're turning ~$1 of ABS, $2 of aluminum, some electronics from ebay, a bit of perfboard and maybe an hour of machine time into a $150 product. With a proper machine, you could make that part out of solid aluminum in probably 5 minutes.

Your product is WAY overpriced for what it is. I'd make my own using nothing but a hammer before I gave you $150.

I suggested 3d printing the socket a while back but honestly, given the cost of ABS it is probably MUCH cheaper to machine it.
Not sure where you got the idea that ABS for 3D is expensive, but $14 for a 1Kg spool isn't . . . And this part is not that big and bulky. No insult to Ralieghcopter, since I'm sure that what he has made is far nicer looking than most 3D stuff, but I would wager that once the design was there, you could 3D this part for under a buck for plastic.

- Tim
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Old 02-19-2016, 04:41 PM   #33 (permalink)
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The filament on both the 3d printers I have access to isn't anywhere near that cheap. (Ultimaker 2 / Stratasys Fortus 380mc)
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Old 02-20-2016, 01:11 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Then I will say you are buying the wrong stuff. It's all the same . . . test and see what works and ignore the mfg's FUD that baby unicorns will die if you don't let them rob you for thier brand. Oh, and the stuff I described (and use) is the Inland brand sold by Microcenter.

- Tim
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Old 02-20-2016, 08:29 AM   #35 (permalink)
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The Ultimaker takes a weird diameter of filament so the common stuff doesn't even fit. The Fortus is just totally proprietary.
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Old 02-20-2016, 08:31 AM   #36 (permalink)
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This is a thread for installing the module bay. If you want to discuss other manufacturing methods, i'm happy to do it in a different thread. Can we please stay on topic.
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Old 02-20-2016, 09:36 AM   #37 (permalink)
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https://www.helifreak.com/forumdisplay.php?f=49

I think that's the forum you're looking for...
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Old 02-20-2016, 12:00 PM   #38 (permalink)
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You missed. I'm happy to discuss manufacturing techniques in the build thread at

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=731818
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Old 03-13-2016, 03:33 PM   #39 (permalink)
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A pic of the final wiring harness for the module bays. I think they came out pretty nice.


I've got a small stack of them here...


We're getting close now.
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Old 03-13-2016, 10:03 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Read between the lines there Bub...

That's a lot of Jetis!
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