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Old 05-09-2008, 10:08 AM   #61 (permalink)
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Yeah, I may just go there. I've been doing business with them for over 30 years, although not much in the last 20 years or so. It would be nice if they could get their online system into the 21st century, though.
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Old 05-09-2008, 10:12 AM   #62 (permalink)
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Mine was reloading in IE too. I just hit the stop button and that seemed to work.
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Old 05-09-2008, 10:26 AM   #63 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Mine was reloading in IE too. I just hit the stop button and that seemed to work.
I had tried that and it wasn't working, but I may have been hitting the button just as it changed from stop to reload. I tried again and it worked.
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Old 05-09-2008, 10:38 AM   #64 (permalink)
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On the subject of the RCD PIC programmer, would a USB-to-serial adapter likely provide sufficient voltage to run the circuit? I know RS-232 has pretty broad specs as to what voltages it can run at, anywhere from 5V to 15V.
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Old 05-09-2008, 11:30 AM   #65 (permalink)
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I tried that with my USB -> serial adapter and it didn't work. I believe somewhere it says that adapters arn't supported but some might work.
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Old 05-09-2008, 12:46 PM   #66 (permalink)
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I tried that with my USB -> serial adapter and it didn't work. I believe somewhere it says that adapters arn't supported but some might work.
That's what I was afraid of. The adapters probably don't support low-level access to the signal lines. I guess if I want to build this tach, I'll have to either buy a proper programmer or try redesigning it with an Atmel controller. I'll have to dust off the EE part of my brain.

What would be an equivalent USB-programmable Atmel controller?
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Old 05-09-2008, 12:57 PM   #67 (permalink)
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I have moved over to C and atmel controllers. atmel are just as cheap and more powerful. And some of them can be programmed with USB.
I've switched over the Atmel chip as well for the most part. Much faster and easyer to get things up and running. Codevision C is also the reason I switched. One of the programmer I use works off the parallel port and just use a $.50 buffer chip.
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Old 05-09-2008, 01:01 PM   #68 (permalink)
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Fireup I use a mac so serial ports and parallel ports are out of the question. The atmel actually does need a real programmer to do a proper job. But you can cheat, some of the atmel controllers come with a bootloader. You program your code onto the atmel into its flash memory via the USB. The bootloader than runs your code from the flash memory.
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Old 05-09-2008, 01:19 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBum View Post
Yeah, I may just go there. I've been doing business with them for over 30 years, although not much in the last 20 years or so. It would be nice if they could get their online system into the 21st century, though.
Exactly why I went with Newark...the Digikey website is cumbersome. Also, since the order was less than $25, they wanted a $5 handling fee. I'd rather spend the money on priority shipping!
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Old 05-13-2008, 05:46 AM   #70 (permalink)
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Hi, this is a very interesting project. Are the pic chips available programmed from the designer.
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Old 05-13-2008, 11:07 AM   #71 (permalink)
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You can send me your blank chip and I will program it for free if you cover all shipping costs. Just PM me when you get it and I will send you my address.
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Old 05-16-2008, 07:42 PM   #72 (permalink)
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Alright, need some help here please.

The 10K trimpot, does it get wired up at all three pins? I have the motor circuit complete but seems to only have variable throttle with the big pot. What have I done wrong?
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Old 05-16-2008, 07:52 PM   #73 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Alright, need some help here please.

The 10K trimpot, does it get wired up at all three pins? I have the motor circuit complete but seems to only have variable throttle with the big pot. What have I done wrong?
Looks like for the 10 turn put, you need to use the middle and one of the outer terminal, the speed of the motor will determine which one of the outer two to use (clockwise, motor should increase in speed).



You are using the pots in "rheostat" mode so only need to use two terminals, but one of the terminal has to be the wiper, which is usually the middle pin.

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Old 05-16-2008, 08:03 PM   #74 (permalink)
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So it looks like it's wired ok? The problem I'm having is that I can't tune the top end RPM. The way I understood this to work is that you use the big pot to select your shutter speed and the trim pot to select you top end. So I'm trying to set the max rpm by turning the big pot up to max and then dcrease the max rpm with the trim pot...right? The trim pot is doing nothing to change rpm.
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Old 05-16-2008, 08:13 PM   #75 (permalink)
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The trimpot only uses two pins. I should note that in the instructions. It looks like you have it connected correctly. If you set the 2.5k pot so the motor spins the fastest, the 10k should increase or decrease the top end speed depending on which way you turn it. Try hooking the trim pot up a different way. I used a ohm meter on my trim pot to make sure I hooked it up right. Those little blue pots sometimes have odd pin outs.
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Old 05-16-2008, 08:15 PM   #76 (permalink)
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Because the trim put is 10K, you may have to turn it down quite a bit until you get about a 200 - 500 ohm range until it will do something.
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Old 05-16-2008, 08:28 PM   #77 (permalink)
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I'll get my tach back for a short while so I can answer some of these questions better. To be honest, I have no idea where my 10k is set at the moment but I will check it out this weekend. Fireup has a good point, you may have to turn the pot way down but it seems like mine changed RPM the entire range. I will let you know.
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Old 05-16-2008, 08:39 PM   #78 (permalink)
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Ok found the problem...those f***ers sent me the wrong pot. Instead of 2.0K pot, they sent a 20K pot!

Is there any way to get this one to work...throw another resistor in line or something?
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Old 05-16-2008, 08:59 PM   #79 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fireup View Post
You are using the pots in "rheostat" mode so only need to use two terminals, but one of the terminal has to be the wiper, which is usually the middle pin.

Also, it's a good idea to wire together the wiper and one of the ends. That will keep noise from entering the circuit through the open wire (which will no longer be open), although in this application it probably would matter.
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Old 05-17-2008, 05:39 PM   #80 (permalink)
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Perhaps this is the wrong place and thread for this question, but here goes. I enjoy the build and set up of helis almost as much as flying. I have good mechanical skills(ex.-wired my house, build violins) but have zero knowledge of electronics. Does anyone have any suggestions for courses, books, etc. that would help me correct this personal deficit? I checked the local comm. college, but no luck.
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