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180CFX Blade 180CFX Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 03-12-2016, 11:26 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default New 180CFX Pilot - Hello!, Questions?, Tear-Down, Rebuild, Flights, etc.

Hello - I just purchased a pre-owned 180CFX and am reviewing the various manuals.

This is my first FBL heli and Castle ESC. I've also got Mini-Titans, a Blade 400, Hirobo Quarks, a Blade mSR, an mCX and Century Swift 550s.

I see for a DX6i the throttle value for 'normal' mode is 25% - is that correct? That seems kind of low, given most ESCs will overheat at throttle values under 80%, unless they've got active freewheeling or similar enabled. I didn't see anything in the ESC's manual from Castle that indicates it has active freewheeling or similar ... maybe it does ?

Thanks!
-John
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Old 03-12-2016, 11:35 AM   #2 (permalink)
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The throttle percentage number doesn't really mean anything. It just gives the esc a signal to go to a preset headspeed.
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Old 03-12-2016, 11:39 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I see - thanks Jiminator.

Are the preset headspeeds called out anywhere, or will I need that Castlelink & software ?

Never mind - I found it ... https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=663101
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Old 03-12-2016, 12:32 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FR4-Pilot View Post
I see - thanks Jiminator.

Are the preset headspeeds called out anywhere, or will I need that Castlelink & software ?

Never mind - I found it ... https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=663101
It has a pre-set ESC. You do not need that Castle Link cable UNLESS you want to change the settings of the ESC. My experience is that you do not need to reset anything at all. The 180 CFX runs a flat curve of 25% as soon as your Throttle goes 25% or up to approx 70%, then it bolts into Idle up speed which you need for inverted flight etc Just take it easy for a few flights, it quite a beast and will get away from you in a hurry!!
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Old 03-12-2016, 03:38 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks HarryR! I definitely want to keep the head speed low for a while

I've been flying helis for 7 years, but I'm a newb to flybarless and to Castle ESCs ... I didn't realize the 15A ESC had so much smarts built into it. I'm sure the flybarless controller/receiver is going to keep me scratching my head too ...
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Old 03-13-2016, 08:52 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Default Torque Tube

Is the stock torque tube a problem with this heli?
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Old 03-13-2016, 09:40 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The stock TT is the sacrificial part when your tail rotor touches the ground. Any kind of tail touch will break the TT. They're not expensive, but you can go through several quickly if you're not careful. Many of us have added the slipper clutch mod which lets the TT slip when the tail touches. I have broken only 1 TT since doing the mod and have probably 50 crashes or so.
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Old 03-13-2016, 11:09 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Here's a link to the "slipper clutch mod".
" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen>

Joe
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Old 03-13-2016, 11:09 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Hmmm......not sure why it posted the video twice. They're both the same.

Joe
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Old 03-14-2016, 08:39 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Awesome info guys!

There's so much going on with this heli - meaning add-ons, upgrades, videos, forums ... gonna take me forever to get up to speed

I thank you for your help ...
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Old 03-14-2016, 10:19 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I've been flying mine in "normal" mode for a while, and it is plenty powerful. I had the pitch curve dialed way down when I first got it...

Quote:
Originally Posted by FR4-Pilot View Post
Hello - I just purchased a pre-owned 180CFX and am reviewing the various manuals.

I see for a DX6i the throttle value for 'normal' mode is 25% - is that correct? That seems kind of low, given most ESCs will overheat at throttle values under 80%, unless they've got active freewheeling or similar enabled. I didn't see anything in the ESC's manual from Castle that indicates it has active freewheeling or similar ... maybe it does ?

This is my first FBL heli and Castle ESC. I've also got Mini-Titans, a Blade 400, Hirobo Quarks, a Blade mSR, an mCX and Century Swift 550s.

Thanks!
-John
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Old 03-14-2016, 12:11 PM   #12 (permalink)
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In normal mode 25% throttle just tells esc to use set rpm (4200 IIRC). IMO it's easier to fly with a bit higher RPM - 4500 in IU1. I use normal mode only for take off & landing. If you wan't to tame it down, you can use your TX D/R and expo settings to make it less responsive. For low rpm flying you need better collective management skills - you might not have enough power to save your heli, if you find your heli flying too fast towards the ground.
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Old 03-14-2016, 10:20 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I'll probably be using normal mode for a while - until we get that 'trust' thing going

The heli arrived today - looks like a bent feathering shaft and a cut signal wire on the ESC. Swash might be a little sloppy too. All the blades are scraped at the tips. I'm going to tear it down and inspect all the parts. Time to make a shopping list

I noticed in the manual and on the bladehelis.com website it shows the receiver oriented with the servo connectors towards the back of the heli and the antenna towards the motor. On this one it's turned around 180 with the antenna coming out by the tail servo. How are your receivers oriented? I would think keeping the antenna away from the motor is a good thing, but it looks very difficult to get to the servo connectors. Does it matter on this heli?

Thanks,
-John
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Old 03-14-2016, 10:44 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Sorry to hear yours needs some work. At least it's a fun bird to work on. Just be VERY careful tightening those little 1.6mm screws. I've stripped a few already.

My RX is oriented just like yours and yes, it's a royal P.I.T.A to get to the servo connectors. My stock swash was pretty sloppy too so I just replaced it with the Lynx swash. Made a huge difference. So much so that I had to add some extra expo. It was about $26.00 shipped from ebay.

My problem now is trying to get it back outside again. Nothing but a bunch of hovering and minor moves in the living room. Maybe next weekend......

Joe
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Old 03-14-2016, 11:08 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Thanks for the heads up on the tiny screws - I like how many socket head cap screws there are on this heli. I only found a few Phillips head screws.

I poked around some more on the blade website and saw a few pics with the receiver oriented like this one. I pulled the main shaft out and removed the main gear and it looks like I can get to the servo connectors that way - with a thin tip needle nose maybe (?)

I was so temped to try a test hover with the heli as-is but I'll have to wait until I check it all out just to be safe The weather is still crappy here anyway ...

I forgot just how small micro helis are when working on them. I think this one will be worth the effort and constant switching of my eyeglasses

- John
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Old 03-15-2016, 06:28 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbojoe View Post
Sorry to hear yours needs some work. At least it's a fun bird to work on. Just be VERY careful tightening those little 1.6mm screws. I've stripped a few already.
Fully agree on the little screws especially into plastic. Tighten them with your thumb and forefinger only, and when it's snug just tighten 1/8 turn more. Don't try to feel for the thread to fully grip and bite because when you reach that stage the thread most likely stripped.
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Old 03-15-2016, 06:38 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by FR4-Pilot View Post

I poked around some more on the blade website and saw a few pics with the receiver oriented like this one. I pulled the main shaft out and removed the main gear and it looks like I can get to the servo connectors that way - with a thin tip needle nose maybe (?)



- John
Just drop the bottom plate and you will have access to all the servo connectors.
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Old 03-15-2016, 08:56 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Speaking of those tiny cap head screws - I need to get a 2nd good quality 1.5mm hex driver ... on the list it goes! I'm looking forward to the tear down and rebuild

Pulling the bottom plate to get to the receiver - didn't think of that! This heli has lots of zip ties and micro-to-standard servo adapters that I'll probably want to clean up a bit (I'm weird with wires)

My guess is the placement and orientation of the receiver/FBL controller is critical for it to function correctly, that is, I can't mount it outside the frame, on it's side, in a open area to help with connector access as this will mess with the XYZ measurements and assumptions of the controller.

So, taking off and landing - can you slowly ease up on the pitch and gently lift the heli into the air or will that freak out the FBL controller? Likewise with landing? Just concerned about tip overs. I think the manual said something about 'deliberately raising the throttle and establishing a hover 2ft above the ground' ... and not to touch the sticks before take-off. Trying to anticipate what its going to do right after take off.

-John
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Old 03-15-2016, 09:25 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FR4-Pilot View Post



So, taking off and landing - can you slowly ease up on the pitch and gently lift the heli into the air (like with flybar helis) or will that freak out the FBL controller? Likewise with landing? Just concerned about tip overs.

-John

Yes you can ease up gently, I made the mistake of popping it the first time I launched and it was 25ft up before I knew what happen. Everybody has different techniques and styles though so I guess its up to you.
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Old 03-15-2016, 10:23 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Good thing I didn't try to hover in the basement then - I might have buried it in the ceiling LOL ...

BTW - I renamed this thread so I can put all of my adventures in one place and not clutter up the forum

Last edited by FR4-Pilot; 03-15-2016 at 11:27 AM..
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