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Blade 230S Blade 230S Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 04-21-2016, 10:02 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Am I the only one who had trouble snapping on the trailing arm linkage ball joints on the swash plates. They have been made with the small side of the ball hole facing the ball, so a punch is necessary to insert them. I've cracked mine doing this, making them useless. I reckon they have built them with the installation side facing away from the ball?
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Old 04-22-2016, 03:08 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Now I have my new head installed, also have put in a one way bearing which works a treat, now having issues with pitch. I have a DX6 G2 and need to adjust the servo throw to get more negative pitch. How do I do this. I have zero pitch at 50% and level wash. Plenty of positive pitch but little negative. Just a bit new to adjusting things in the Tx.
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Old 04-22-2016, 08:16 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crsorrell0653 View Post
Am I the only one who had trouble snapping on the trailing arm linkage ball joints on the swash plates. They have been made with the small side of the ball hole facing the ball, so a punch is necessary to insert them. I've cracked mine doing this, making them useless. I reckon they have built them with the installation side facing away from the ball?
I have no problem popping linkages on/off no matter which position they are in and have never broke one by removing or replacing?

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Old 04-22-2016, 08:21 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Adjust the pitch travel in the radio.
BTW my arms went on with no issues. sorry you had problems


Quote:
Originally Posted by crsorrell0653 View Post
Now I have my new head installed, also have put in a one way bearing which works a treat, now having issues with pitch. I have a DX6 G2 and need to adjust the servo throw to get more negative pitch. How do I do this. I have zero pitch at 50% and level wash. Plenty of positive pitch but little negative. Just a bit new to adjusting things in the Tx.
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Old 04-22-2016, 05:41 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d12bn View Post
Adjust the pitch travel in the radio.
BTW my arms went on with no issues. sorry you had problems
Well, have I put mine on back to front then (but it flies ok). They can go on facing forward which means the holes snap in really easy over the balls. But then your head will be out of sink with the swash. I wonder if mine were made wrong. Did yours have the large side of the ball link hole facing the ball, or the smaller diameter of the ball link hole facing the ball? I was always told to present the larger side of the hole to the ball.
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Old 05-09-2016, 03:04 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Default trying the build again, but need input (may have found my problem)

First, the comment about the larger end of ball link being being away from the ball: you are correct! They just used parts they already manufactured for another assembly and moved them to the 230s to save money. Thats why the logo is on the inside and unless you take the ball out of swash you are forcing the smaller end over the ball to install. They still work just fine. Mine are exact same way but I didn't worry to much about it, just watch for looseness on link and change if need be due to wear from snapping on/off a lot (which you really shouldn't need to do since you can't set phasing on this bird).

Now for what I need help with, I have decided to try install again. My original conclusion was that the servos did not have enough speed/torque to throw the swash around like I wanted causing the slower movement. After more research I now realize those same servos are used on the 360cfx and some ppl are running them on 450 size birds. They are rated for the torque and speed required, and are higher rated than the current servos I have on my trex 450 actually which is a little beast. This made me think of the receiver again.

Last night I did a voltage test with my induction meter. Using 3 loop on the wires around the meter the servos were receiving 18.1 volts at no load, and 14.4 volts with motor spinning. After a quick calculation (divide by 3 since I had the wires in 3 loops) that equates to the servos getting 6 volts on ground (high rating) and 4.8 volts with motor spinning at zero pitch. The 4.8 volts is outside of the servos operating voltage range of 5-6.2, meaning the receiver is chopping its power and slowing its movement. I also slaved in a 2200mah venom batt for the ground test, so I know batt current was available meaning the receiver is doing this, not lack of power.

Any rc vets out there that know of a setting to get them back up to rated speed? I would love to have this assembly working... One other note, the manual does say that normal and iu1 have reduced servo rates but iu2 is supposed to be the full 3d balls to the walls mode. I'm not sure how they programmed this since they locked the 636a receiver and computer won't read/write parameters, but wondering if my iu2 is stuck in low rate mode and that is causing these issues.

And now for the last question, anyone ever set this thing up for another receiver? I have been thinking about putting a beastx in my 450, meaning I would have a spare 3gx and satellite to try and program for the 230. Not sure how the gyro in the 3gx would play with the dual esc in the 230, but full programability of the 3gx allong with 120 ccpm management would eliminate every issue i'm complaining about with this bird. I would be able to run servos at full speed like they do on 360 and 450, have precise ccpm setup with specific management, support for multi blade rotor head, and best of all be rid of this stupid safe mode mistake in normal mode. What you guys think? Will a 3gx be programmable with dual motor setup or would I be wasting my time.
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Old 05-26-2018, 09:03 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smetankj View Post
First, the comment about the larger end of ball link being being away from the ball: you are correct! They just used parts they already manufactured for another assembly and moved them to the 230s to save money. Thats why the logo is on the inside and unless you take the ball out of swash you are forcing the smaller end over the ball to install. They still work just fine. Mine are exact same way but I didn't worry to much about it, just watch for looseness on link and change if need be due to wear from snapping on/off a lot (which you really shouldn't need to do since you can't set phasing on this bird).

Now for what I need help with, I have decided to try install again. My original conclusion was that the servos did not have enough speed/torque to throw the swash around like I wanted causing the slower movement. After more research I now realize those same servos are used on the 360cfx and some ppl are running them on 450 size birds. They are rated for the torque and speed required, and are higher rated than the current servos I have on my trex 450 actually which is a little beast. This made me think of the receiver again.

Last night I did a voltage test with my induction meter. Using 3 loop on the wires around the meter the servos were receiving 18.1 volts at no load, and 14.4 volts with motor spinning. After a quick calculation (divide by 3 since I had the wires in 3 loops) that equates to the servos getting 6 volts on ground (high rating) and 4.8 volts with motor spinning at zero pitch. The 4.8 volts is outside of the servos operating voltage range of 5-6.2, meaning the receiver is chopping its power and slowing its movement. I also slaved in a 2200mah venom batt for the ground test, so I know batt current was available meaning the receiver is doing this, not lack of power.

Any rc vets out there that know of a setting to get them back up to rated speed? I would love to have this assembly working... One other note, the manual does say that normal and iu1 have reduced servo rates but iu2 is supposed to be the full 3d balls to the walls mode. I'm not sure how they programmed this since they locked the 636a receiver and computer won't read/write parameters, but wondering if my iu2 is stuck in low rate mode and that is causing these issues.
Bump for this.

Also, my blade grips have a ton of play on them. From reading this thread, I have switched how the spindles sit in the trio hub so that I see the rounded portion and not a half moon shape. But still a lot of play, so I have tried to take the grips off the spindles to add another washer. But the screws won't screw out of the spindle. They move but no matter how many times I turn, they won't come out of the spindles. Am I missing something or is my loctite just giving me a hard time? Anything else I can do to limit the play in the blade grips to hub?

Thanks!
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Old 05-29-2018, 12:12 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Trying to revive this thread to figure out what I'm doing wrong. I have a lot of play in the blade grip to hub connection.
Maybe need to add a washer? I think my setup is correct, attached pictures in case someone can see my issue.

Thanks all!
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Old 05-29-2018, 01:05 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Hi,

As for the play in the blade grips, am I correct in assuming this is end play in that the blade grips move in and out of the head a lot, or is it like bearing play> If its end play I wouldn't worry too much as the centrifugal force of the blade will keep the blade grips out. On the two blade head lateral play can come from the dampers but it looks like the three blade head doesn't have dampers, so maybe that is why the could be some deliberate lateral play. It doesn't look like you are doing anything wrong.
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Old 05-29-2018, 07:57 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Allan114 View Post
Hi,

As for the play in the blade grips, am I correct in assuming this is end play in that the blade grips move in and out of the head a lot, or is it like bearing play> If its end play I wouldn't worry too much as the centrifugal force of the blade will keep the blade grips out. On the two blade head lateral play can come from the dampers but it looks like the three blade head doesn't have dampers, so maybe that is why the could be some deliberate lateral play. It doesn't look like you are doing anything wrong.

Thank you. Yes talking about lateral play. The 3 head does have dampeners as the bearings.
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Old 05-30-2018, 01:48 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black mamba 2011 View Post
Thank you. Yes talking about lateral play. The 3 head does have dampeners as the bearings.
The dampers are a rubber material so there will be some lateral play, unlike a ball race that will/should have no play. What wouldn't be acceptable would be lateral play caused by slack fitting dampers. I would expect the dampers to be a tight fit in the grips and the shalt to be a tight fit in the damper. if it is not like that then there is something wrong.
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Old 06-07-2018, 06:11 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Update:

It's flying really well! Only thing is it seems a little dull in response, maybe due to extra weight of head? But it's responding and flying great otherwise. Has been lasting a full 5+ min on 1250mah 35C batteries.

Will continue update when it's not so windy or raining, see picture of shoes below...
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Old 07-20-2019, 11:41 PM   #33 (permalink)
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I am having a few problems with my 3 Blade setup. 1st not sure of the correct spindle placement in the collar now ? also on my second flight . the wash out arm ball link that connects to the swash just broke in half .

can some one post a pic of the correct spindle setup ?

Thanks
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Old 07-26-2019, 01:21 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Default Update please

Brick,

Were you able to find your way out of the woods with this three blade conversion? Did you locate any photos or get assistance from MicroHeli?

Thanks for any update… I may do this conversion too depending on how things shake out for you. Right now, based on the length and the confusion noted in the above thread, I wouldn’t try it without photos or clear, detailed instructions....Including instructions for any changes in the radio/gains etc.
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Old 07-26-2019, 07:37 PM   #35 (permalink)
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I took mine off, not worth crashing a Good Heli

I sent MH an email...They haven't replied
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Old 08-08-2019, 08:21 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Anyone flying the 3 blade conversion from MicroHeli still? I just install their kit onto my Nano CPS. Nice kit. Hope to fly it tomorrow.

Danny
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Old 08-11-2019, 12:17 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Finally received my 3bladed conversation kit for my 230S

https://photos.app.goo.gl/wcQCCA8HDNBzJe9s9

Standard tuning, easy to built (took me 15 minutes), love the look ==> it flies great but different... I like my helis to respond fast whereas this is the complete opposite. It's way more slower to respond (idle 0 and 1 is like taking a turn with a giant truck, whereas idle 2 is like taking a turn with a van).
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Nano CPX - Nano CPS (2) - Nano S2 (3) - Micro Apache - 180CFX (2) - 230S HUEY - 230S V2 - 250 CFX - 270 Fusion (2) - 270 CFX (2) - 360 CFX (2) - Align 450 PRO - Align 150X ** Spektrum DX8E *** Hangar out: MCPX BL - 130S - 230S V1 Trio

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Old 08-12-2019, 10:13 AM   #38 (permalink)
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I see in your picture what I believe is a Nano. My next heli is to be the 230s. How does the 230s flight character compare to the Nano? I will be putting a three blade kit on the 230s as well.

Danny
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Old 08-12-2019, 08:22 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Correct, that's my nano cps.

It's quit hard to compare both helis (nano cps - 230S) because they are so different.

230S:
bigger, more stable, more power

Nano cps:
lack of power, can take a crash, twitchy,ideal trainer for your backyard,...
Basically you can say that my nano is my life sim. I fly that heli all the time (learned all my inverted orientations on that little b*stard ) and once I've mastered my "new" skills on the cps, I move over to my bigger birds.
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Nano CPX - Nano CPS (2) - Nano S2 (3) - Micro Apache - 180CFX (2) - 230S HUEY - 230S V2 - 250 CFX - 270 Fusion (2) - 270 CFX (2) - 360 CFX (2) - Align 450 PRO - Align 150X ** Spektrum DX8E *** Hangar out: MCPX BL - 130S - 230S V1 Trio
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Old 08-17-2019, 07:43 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Psycho_dad View Post
Finally received my 3bladed conversation kit for my 230S

https://photos.app.goo.gl/wcQCCA8HDNBzJe9s9

Standard tuning, easy to built (took me 15 minutes), love the look ==> it flies great but different... I like my helis to respond fast whereas this is the complete opposite. It's way more slower to respond (idle 0 and 1 is like taking a turn with a giant truck, whereas idle 2 is like taking a turn with a van).
How is that tri head holding up ?
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