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Old 05-02-2016, 11:12 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Test fitting battery/esc wires (minus series wire obviously) with zipties. Does this look like it will be good?

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Old 05-02-2016, 11:13 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadco View Post
You could do this.

.
oh, I like that. I will try that. never mind my last post.
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Old 05-02-2016, 11:32 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Yeah I do like this better, but now the little power/signal wires won't reach back far enough. shadco, are you using the power bus?

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Old 05-03-2016, 02:56 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ultrataco View Post
shadco, are you using the power bus?
Who doesn't? And if he does you must have found the first person that didn't get it.

It's so trivial, but makes such a difference !
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Old 05-03-2016, 07:12 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ultrataco View Post
Yeah I do like this better, but now the little power/signal wires won't reach back far enough. shadco, are you using the power bus?


Yes

Also be sure your motor wire can't touch the cf frame.

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Old 05-03-2016, 08:56 AM   #46 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zomaar View Post
Who doesn't? And if he does you must have found the first person that didn't get it.

It's so trivial, but makes such a difference !
Yeah it's nice and I considered it but I don't want to mess with the extra soldering and shortening servo wires.
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Old 05-03-2016, 08:59 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ultrataco View Post
Yeah it's nice and I considered it but I don't want to mess with the extra soldering and shortening servo wires.
You won't have to solder or shorten any wires with your setup if you don't want to, even with the Power Bus.

The HW160 will power the bus directly through the servo plugs.
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Old 05-03-2016, 09:05 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KiloXray View Post
You won't have to solder or shorten any wires with your setup if you don't want to, even with the Power Bus.

The HW160 will power the bus directly through the servo plugs.
ooh ok. thanks. I'll look at it again.
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Old 05-03-2016, 09:59 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ultrataco View Post
Yeah it's nice and I considered it but I don't want to mess with the extra soldering and shortening servo wires.
I haven't shortened the servo leads, or ESC leads on my power bus setup yet, just coiled them up neatly and tucked the extra length away. There is only 1 servo connected to a power bus anyway. It's really nice for not having to run 2 lines from the speedy all the way back.


.
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Old 05-04-2016, 10:35 AM   #50 (permalink)
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I didn't have much time to actually do anything yesterday other than stare at it. After screwing around with servo extensions and zipties for about an hour I decided to just get the power bus.

The new tail slider was delivered today so I'll probably work on that when I get home. I also need to make a decision on the esc and battery layout and get that stuff soldered.
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Old 05-04-2016, 03:37 PM   #51 (permalink)
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If it can help you



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Old 05-04-2016, 04:34 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Wow very nice job reco_very
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Old 05-04-2016, 06:07 PM   #53 (permalink)
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yes. looks good, thanks.
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Old 05-04-2016, 08:17 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Ok I think I've narrowed it down to 2 options. Any thoughts would be welcome.

Option #1. Same as my original idea, but shorten the negative lead a little and the positive lead a lot to keep them from flopping around so much or getting squished in the canopy. I'm a little concerned about shortening the red wire that much and that close to the esc. (thinking of soldering heat)




Option #2: flipped around the front battery. I like this layout but would obviously require extending the positive esc lead somehow. I'd either have to make a little ec5 extension or (probably more preferable ) direct solder a length of wire.

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Old 05-04-2016, 10:16 PM   #55 (permalink)
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I installed the new tail slider, this time without any modification. There's resistance/tightness especially near the tail case. Is this ok? It feels like it could maybe cause tail issues. Will the pins/links eventually loosen up?
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Old 05-05-2016, 05:33 AM   #56 (permalink)
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To be honest I am not a fan of either option. I triedmy first few flights running one lipo through the side like that. It was a PITA and the wire got a little chaffed. Why not run an extension from the rear pack so the connector is in the front as well?
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Old 05-05-2016, 05:36 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ultrataco View Post
I installed the new tail slider, this time without any modification. There's resistance/tightness especially near the tail case. Is this ok? It feels like it could maybe cause tail issues. Will the pins/links eventually loosen up?
With the pins and links I try to fly a couple flights to see if they free up. Unless they are really tight. Is the tightness near the tail case from the brass slider, shaft, or links and pins? How sticky?
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Old 05-05-2016, 06:50 AM   #58 (permalink)
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Was there any mold line flashing to remove from the links? I used a new scalpel blade to scrape a tiny bit of flashing away. Helps if you have a magnifier to help see or better yet a magnifier lamp like I use. The arms are a tight fit even without the pin inserted so removing the flashing helps smooth things up a bit.
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Old 05-05-2016, 08:53 AM   #59 (permalink)
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I really wish hobbywing did connector tabs like Kontronik, if probably jump on buying one if they did. I hate the way it looks with the mess of wires personally

Doesn't get any cleaner than this

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Old 05-05-2016, 09:11 AM   #60 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michaelinpr View Post
To be honest I am not a fan of either option. I triedmy first few flights running one lipo through the side like that. It was a PITA and the wire got a little chaffed. Why not run an extension from the rear pack so the connector is in the front as well?
hmm I guess I could make an ec5 extension cable. I really don't want to mess with the packs since I use them in my 550 too. Also, this would still require shortening the esc wires, but I assume that's ok.

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Originally Posted by Michaelinpr View Post
With the pins and links I try to fly a couple flights to see if they free up. Unless they are really tight. Is the tightness near the tail case from the brass slider, shaft, or links and pins? How sticky?
Definitely the links, mostly with the pins installed. The slider alone on the shaft is very smooth and free.

I'm not sure how to describe how sticky it is. It's not so tight the servo will have any trouble moving it but the fbl could probably feel it especially since it's not exactly uniform. I'm not sure. I don't have a lot of experience with this kind of thing. It is smooth though. There's not really any particular spot where it grabs. It just gets progressively tighter as it moves toward the boom/case side. It feels the same as the original one did at first so I want to believe it's normal and will go away.

If I disconnect the tail rod from the servo and hold the heli tail down, the slider doesn't move even with a shake. Of course, it will move a little if I tap the rod down, but only about as far as my tap. It doesn't slide any further.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ukpaul View Post
Was there any mold line flashing to remove from the links? I used a new scalpel blade to scrape a tiny bit of flashing away. Helps if you have a magnifier to help see or better yet a magnifier lamp like I use. The arms are a tight fit even without the pin inserted so removing the flashing helps smooth things up a bit.
I will check but that's kind of what got me into trouble the first time. I kept sanding to get the links free but then with the pins installed it ended up being mostly free with a sticky resistant spot. It only really freed up when I opened up the inner link hole.
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