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Blade 230S Blade 230S Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 01-15-2018, 01:49 PM   #281 (permalink)
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My new red and white "Night" style canopy arrived today. It was way too windy to fly so I spent the afternoon covering the inside of it with clear sticky tape to stop it disintegrating if I hit the ground again like the last one did. This heli is a bit nose light so this should help the balance.

I really don't like the colours of the green canopy as they seem to easily blend into the the grey sky colour. I am thinking that I might wrap the green canopy rather than paint it. I am sure that model solarfilm would do the job. Whilst it says iron on it does stick first. I am only going to put some red flashes or something on the canopy not wrap the whole thing. They wrap cars so why not helicopters?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOLARFILM...TGv2Dn5JdIEORA
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Old 01-15-2018, 08:17 PM   #282 (permalink)
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Was a great day, I had 5 fresh batteries and was off to a great start just motoring around, small banked turns etc. Then all of a sudden it takes a header into the ground before I knew what was going on. Still not sure why, maybe I was tilted too far to the right and heading down faster than I thought.... Am pretty bummed as I wanted to keep it crash-free for a bit longer.

I did a quick once over and it seemed ok, but on later inspection some stuff did break.

Bent boom, front skid cracked, back skid screw hole/mount cracked, some slop in the main shaft and a gear tooth or two chewed so far. Nothing seems major enough to require parts before another flight if I put in some time tonight.


It looks like the ring that holds the main shaft has shifted. Do I need to just unscrew, reposition then tighten with loctite?

Work and school were cancelled tomorrow so I better take advantage....
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Old 01-15-2018, 10:51 PM   #283 (permalink)
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...Then all of a sudden it takes a header into the ground before I knew what was going on. Still not sure why, maybe I was tilted too far to the right and heading down faster than I thought....

...It looks like the ring that holds the main shaft has shifted. Do I need to just unscrew, reposition then tighten with loctite?....
Were you fairly close to the ground to begin with? A wind gust can yank these things up or down several feet in an instant, faster than you can blink. I've almost crashed several times due to this, and have learned to keep a little elevation at all times because of it, even if there's zero wind or very little wind.

for your question on the main shaft collar; Yes. Make sure the main gear didn't shift too though. If both shifted, you may or may not need to readjust the swash for zero pitch at mid stick, so keep an eye for that before your next flight
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Old 01-15-2018, 11:40 PM   #284 (permalink)
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Were you fairly close to the ground to begin with? A wind gust can yank these things up or down several feet in an instant, faster than you can blink. I've almost crashed several times due to this, and have learned to keep a little elevation at all times because of it, even if there's zero wind or very little wind.



for your question on the main shaft collar; Yes. Make sure the main gear didn't shift too though. If both shifted, you may or may not need to readjust the swash for zero pitch at mid stick, so keep an eye for that before your next flight


I donít think I was too close. Maybe started at 20ft or more up and 10 when it dumped.

Thanks, am working on the collar now. I think the gear is ok. If I push it up by hand it stops where it was before which then aligns the blades back at zero pitch.
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Old 01-16-2018, 05:30 AM   #285 (permalink)
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With banked turns it is easy to get the heli sliding into the bank and descending. They are not that easy to do as it requires tail input, bank input and a little elevator to pull the nose around. It also needs a little speed to do the banked turns. If things go wrong the tail is not coordinated and as said the heli starts sliding into the bank and losing height.

If the heli went in head first did you push fwd to get out of the turn which put the nose down?
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Old 01-16-2018, 11:45 AM   #286 (permalink)
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With banked turns it is easy to get the heli sliding into the bank and descending. They are not that easy to do as it requires tail input, bank input and a little elevator to pull the nose around. It also needs a little speed to do the banked turns. If things go wrong the tail is not coordinated and as said the heli starts sliding into the bank and losing height.

If the heli went in head first did you push fwd to get out of the turn which put the nose down?


They are definitely a set of coordinated movements that Iím not used to. I was actually just going left to right and it tanked before getting to the next bank. I think it was some kind of sideways slide at a weird angle. Honestly I canít remember all of it.

The left skids and frame had the damage and the boom is still angled left. Still canít get it fully straight.

But the skids them selves are fine and work well enough with an extra set of zip ties. Everything else tested well last night and thereís no slop in the gear now.

If only we didnít have freezing rain and the start of flurries today. I know you guys in the north live this all the time, but itís a major event in this area.

Thanks!
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Old 01-16-2018, 12:01 PM   #287 (permalink)
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I definitely think that roll is the hardest orientation to see and it sounds like you hit the ground with a left bank on. Before doing banked turns have you practiced doing tail only turns where you fly along then pull up a bit to kill fwd speed and then turn the tail 180 degrees and fly back on your previous course. It may also help if you pull the nose up a bit before going into the bank turn
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Old 01-16-2018, 12:46 PM   #288 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by scottdrumfish View Post
the tail motor. Now it gets hot, do I also need a new tail motor? It turns by hand like new, It sounds and flies like new. I know it should not be getting this hot.:
Here's what happened with my 230s tail motor:
Tail motor getting hot and not spinning smoothly by hand. Lightly oiled bearings and then it spun smooth.
Next few flights ok but motor getting warm.
Had a light crash- hard landing after got a flashing red light doing flips. Now the tail motor is jerky at low speed and heli pirouettes when try to take off. Tested the motor and found to be very jerky at low speed, ok at high speed. The motor is no good as a tail motor.
Ordered a new motor, replaced, and the heli is flying great again.
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Old 01-16-2018, 01:47 PM   #289 (permalink)
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I bet that was it.

Good tips, I was actually doing the simple 180 degree turns to warm up which went well. I kept the tail always turning in towards me for now, flaired the tail up/nose down to stop momentum then continued forward. Sometimes the nose did get too low at first.

From there I did some mini-turns ok which were 90 degrees. I was probably thinking of the mechanics of the next turn too much and didn't notice it getting out of sorts. Whoops.

Time to hit the sim for those a bit more.

Thanks!
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Old 01-16-2018, 02:43 PM   #290 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by scottdrumfish View Post
I had to re wire the tail last night Now it gets hot, do I also need a new tail motor? It turns by hand like new, It sounds and flies like new. I know it should not be getting this hot.
Here is my experience with a bad 230s tail motor.
Tail motor getting hot and not spinning smoothly by hand. Lightly oiled bearings and then it spun smooth.
Next few flights ok but motor getting warm.
Had a light crash- hard landing after got a flashing red light doing flips. Now the tail motor is jerky at low speed and heli pirouettes when try to take off. Tested the motor and found to be very jerky at low speed, ok at high speed. The motor is no good as a tail motor.
Ordered a new motor, replaced, and the heli is flying great again.
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Old 01-17-2018, 09:00 AM   #291 (permalink)
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Anybody added a second esc, either for the main or for the tail. The reason I'm asking is I now have added weight with a speed fuselage, a 1300mah lipo, and the blade led light set. I also want to be able to spin the night blades without burning up the tail motor or esc. I'll use 80% TC. If I decide to mod the esc to the tail, what amp esc will work, like a 15 amp castle, which in turn adds more weight, but may not heat up the esc and in turn the tail motor as bad. All input accepted because after my next upgrades, and it still has problems, I may even have to look at the bigger three blade prop some have modded out of a drone prop to get the tail not to have to work as hard. I just want to sport and scale fly, no 3d. My tail wiring was chaffed and started all this, so more testing is in order. Just don't want to do all this and it never work due to added weight and torque load. I will test with 950 and 1300 and then test tail and esc heat with a temp gun too see. Oh yeah, next test hovers will have a new tail motor, lynx gear and pinion, and micro heli swash plate. Also, another possibility with this set up may be to get the Micro Heli main motor that is 3600kv and use the lynx 13T pinion and find the sweet spot for TC. All suggestions and comments welcome.
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Last edited by scottdrumfish; 01-17-2018 at 09:06 AM.. Reason: forgot
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Old 01-17-2018, 11:33 AM   #292 (permalink)
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All suggestions and comments welcome.
MicroHeli CF tail rotor. Done.
No need for all that other stuff. It's bigger and stiffer, which runs the motor slower and colder

Cf tail boom saves 3 grams, CF tail fin saves almost a gram.
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Old 01-17-2018, 11:45 AM   #293 (permalink)
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I know I'm cheap, but all that CF stuff at Micro Heli seems so expensive. 8.99 for the tail rotor vs 3.99 for two? LOL

That's not terrible I guess. I don't understand the other parts or the full kits that are $250. Might as well buy a different heli that includes more cf. I guess there is a market though.
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Old 01-17-2018, 12:41 PM   #294 (permalink)
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I took off all my CF bits a couple of weeks ago while we have the dodgy weather and I noticed that one blade on the tail rotor was wobbling slightly. I've not crashed it or hit it against anything I am aware of so I assume it happened in flight through normal loading. I've put some super glue over it to re-stiffen the joint but I guess the rotor is shot.

They also seem to be pretty thin on the ground over in UK and Europe.
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Old 01-17-2018, 12:52 PM   #295 (permalink)
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Wouldn't gluing the rotor throw it out of balance?

I would definitely try a new rotor before condemning the motor.
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Old 01-17-2018, 02:05 PM   #296 (permalink)
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I know I'm cheap, but all that CF stuff at Micro Heli seems so expensive. 8.99 for the tail rotor vs 3.99 for two? LOL

That's not terrible I guess. I don't understand the other parts or the full kits that are $250. Might as well buy a different heli that includes more cf. I guess there is a market though.
well, I'd already replaced my stock tail rotor 5 times in only about 20 flights. 1 was floppy and had terrible authority, 2 broke on blades of grass on landing, 1 broke on a leaf that grazed it while spooling up, and one broke mid-air from a ghost or something. CF rotor, zero issues in almost equal amounts of time, and has touched leaves, grass, and even a few small branches. Dollar for dollar, the CF tail rotor was much cheaper. So for me, and for the other actual pro's of it compared to stock, I see no reason NOT to change over
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Old 01-18-2018, 08:43 AM   #297 (permalink)
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Remember, I have weight. Speed Fuse, 1300mah, leds, night blades with battery. All this adds rotor torque so the tail works harder regardless. I'm now contemplating the Micro Heli 3600kv motor and lynx 13T pinion and see how that acts. If all fails, go back to no fuse and a 950mah. Wish me luck. I should have not attempted all this with a motor driven tail heli. There is another possible tail help, which is posted on here somewhere. It involves a 3 blade quad rotor that fits the shaft. You just have to cut it down to a perfect measurement. Hoping to avoid this. I do have the CF tail blade and have removed some of the back of the fuselage to allow thw air to flow. So far, it has all helped, so we will see. Cheers everyone.
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Old 01-18-2018, 09:36 AM   #298 (permalink)
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1 broke on a leaf that grazed it while spooling up, and one broke mid-air from a ghost or something
Sorry, I had to laugh on this one, especially the mid-air ghost. Good to hear that the CF is working. I'll keep that in mind if mine start snapping. ::knock on wood:: they have been ok so far.
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Old 01-18-2018, 09:37 AM   #299 (permalink)
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Sounds about right for the tail blades. Used to buy them by the dozen.
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Old 01-18-2018, 06:12 PM   #300 (permalink)
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Default CF rotor thread

I like the idea that aftermarket stuff is on the market, but i am going with all the feedback to just keep the 230 stock with the exception of MH's CF rotor.
Not that i have even flown my 230 yet, but this thread became very interesting by the members that have switched over to CF rotors.
Motors run cooler, and suppose to quiet the sound too

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread...on+fiber+rotor
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