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Old 07-15-2016, 09:23 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Watch your battery- these are the Pulse 1800mah, with Velcro and straps set on its side you can read the writing when looking from the side of the heli. The end of the battery was set level with the top of the tray. Slid it down so the bottom of the pack was even with the bottom of the tray and it se am not to rub anymore.

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Old 07-15-2016, 09:37 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rasheem View Post
Quick tip #2

Problem: You have max2, protos500 and swash leveler for 500... But you don't have a swash leveler for protos 380...

Solution: Swash geometries of P380 and P500 are same... Only inner diameters are different, that is 6mm for P380 and 8mm for P500...

So you need an adapter (6mm-8mm), that's way you can use swash leveler of P500 when it's needed. And that adapter is Protos Max v2's motor shaft adapter (if you use 8mm shaft on the Max, that adapter is not needed)









And for the people who fly a Mini Protos, the swash leveler is a direct fit
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Old 07-15-2016, 10:20 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Monokote DayGlo Red trim sheets a perfect match.
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Old 07-19-2016, 03:30 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Did you spot the mounting recess for the Bluetooth adapter?
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Old 07-21-2016, 03:11 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgerry View Post
Watch your battery- these are the Pulse 1800mah, with Velcro and straps set on its side you can read the writing when looking from the side of the heli. The end of the battery was set level with the top of the tray. Slid it down so the bottom of the pack was even with the bottom of the tray and it se am not to rub anymore.

Can you post a pic?
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Old 07-21-2016, 08:18 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Can you post a pic?
Rub


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Old 07-21-2016, 08:21 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Mine touches the canopy too

But the cg is more important to me than the black paint getting scuffed from the inside of the canopy
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Old 07-21-2016, 08:27 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colin Broughton View Post
Mine touches the canopy too

But the cg is more important to me than the black paint getting scuffed from the inside of the canopy
My luck......id rub thru to the battery!
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Old 07-21-2016, 10:50 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgerry View Post
My luck......id rub thru to the battery!
lol, it's not that bad. It's just resting against the canopy. The batteries coke with some pretty heavy duty heatshrink
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Old 07-23-2016, 12:03 PM   #30 (permalink)
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When shortening the pushrod for a micro tail servo, do a dry run first with the components and measure the amount you need to trim.

I found I actually needed it 6.5mm shorter, and since the ball links are screwed very deeply into the ends, it's best to err on the side of cutting the pushrod shorter.

I took 10mm off mine, giving me ~1.5mm of room to lengthen each pushrod. That should be enough room to set the tail mechanically for flybarless units that want the blades at zero pitch with the servo at 90°, and also for units that want a little offset on the blades.
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Old 07-23-2016, 12:14 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myxiplx View Post
When shortening the pushrod for a micro tail servo, do a dry run first with the components and measure the amount you need to trim.

I found I actually needed it 6.5mm shorter, and since the ball links are screwed very deeply into the ends, it's best to err on the side of cutting the pushrod shorter.

I took 10mm off mine, giving me ~1.5mm of room to lengthen each pushrod. That should be enough room to set the tail mechanically for flybarless units that want the blades at zero pitch with the servo at 90°, and also for units that want a little offset on the blades.
that's what I posted in another thread here...but you said it way better than I did. that works for any setup also...thank you
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Old 07-23-2016, 01:53 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Also, run the battery straps in place before you strap down the ESC!!

I just learnt that one the hard way lol.
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Old 07-23-2016, 01:58 PM   #33 (permalink)
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When strapping the ESC down with the O ring, you're going to want to use a driver to hold it stretched over but open, so you have a bit of slack.

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Old 07-23-2016, 03:15 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Always use the online (up to date) version of the manual, if it hasn't been stated yet
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Old 07-23-2016, 06:51 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Hello everyone,

I thought I read someone say something about this but I couldnt find it.
I switched to a micro tail servo and I find the servo arm hitting the servo mount on the nut. I think I could grind a bit off the nut? What do you say?
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Old 07-23-2016, 07:05 PM   #36 (permalink)
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That's what I did, before I realized I needed to use the updated manual (see above post). There's a standard M2 nut supplied for this very reason (page 54 of the proper manual)
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Old 07-23-2016, 08:17 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Duh really, sorry , didnt even think to look in the manual. Thats not funny
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Old 07-24-2016, 08:23 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBHAWAII View Post
Duh really, sorry , didnt even think to look in the manual. Thats not funny
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Old 07-25-2016, 08:54 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Quick tip #3 (from Rasheem)

These are tail blades... There's an orange blade for Protos500 at the left... And Protos380 stock tail blade which comes with my P380 Evo Red kit...



And yes, they are almost same... The only problem is root... 2.6mm for P380 and 4mm for P500...

68mm from bolt hole to tip... Same profile, same everything...

There is only a little bit grinding work. If you dont mind, give it a try



http://www.fast-lad.co.uk/store/prod...ducts_id=10226


Edit: I weigh them... 5.2g for p380 tail blade pair... 5.4g for p500 tail blade pair...
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Old 07-26-2016, 07:11 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgerry View Post
For HobbyWing users: If you choose to run the battery side esc wires through the esc cage- run a programming extension when you mount the esc- saves a good bit of time.





Somebody explain this one. I haven't looked at my kit yet maybe I would understand then.
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