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Old 07-26-2016, 07:44 AM   #41 (permalink)
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If you need to program the esc in the future for some reason, it's easier to plug into an extension than the esc itself. After it's mounted, that is.
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Old 07-26-2016, 08:04 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benddg View Post
Somebody explain this one. I haven't looked at my kit yet maybe I would understand then.
The ESC ends up inside the frame, so getting access to the programming port would be tricky. Fitting an extension first makes it much, much easier.
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Old 09-05-2016, 05:49 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Do not use SAB servo horns. They are too thick and will bind on the bearing blocks at the bottom. The stock thinner horns have no problems.
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Old 09-05-2016, 01:08 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Do not use SAB servo horns. They are too thick and will bind on the bearing blocks at the bottom. The stock thinner horns have no problems.
If you do use them, you can just use a dremel to take away a bit of material on the bearing block for clearance.
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Old 09-06-2016, 08:22 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KiloXray View Post
If you do use them, you can just use a dremel to take away a bit of material on the bearing block for clearance.


Mine still bound in the extremes even with dremeling the block. The metal inserts stopped me from removing more material. Not a big deal. The MKS arms were $5 for 5.


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Old 09-06-2016, 03:38 PM   #46 (permalink)
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I switched from mini to micro servo (MKS HV 93i). I was just about to install it and was wondering if I still need a servo adapter for this? Non of the supplied ones really fit. However, in the manual it is not mentioned to not use an adapter with a micro? At the moment I installed an adapter, but it looks weird. I had the impression without any adapter the screws are to long, but I might be wrong
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Old 09-07-2016, 03:15 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Do you mean servo plates?

No need if you use MKS micro servos, since they have small complete holes for fixing servo...

Some servos have open holes, some of them have larger holes that can not fixed with a small screw. Then you should use supplied servo plates. But not with mks.

I use ds95i tail servo. But ds93i hv has similar case..




If you use something like that below, then servo plates are useful...

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Old 09-07-2016, 04:11 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Thanks Rasim, that makes sense will change it then.
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Old 09-07-2016, 07:05 AM   #49 (permalink)
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I had to use them to shim my servos, to get proper geometry. I used my belt sander to take off the bump and make them lay flat, only nicked my fingers 7 or 8 times



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Old 09-08-2016, 12:25 AM   #50 (permalink)
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If running the BK mini tail servo I found it more aesthetically pleasing to run the ball on the inside of the horn. This way it keeps the control rod parallel to the boom.

Unfortunately for me, the recommended 10mm spacing didn't provide enough resolution for me using the Neo, I had to go down a hole and run my ball on the outside.
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Old 09-08-2016, 12:51 AM   #51 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbaum81 View Post
If running the BK mini tail servo I found it more aesthetically pleasing to run the ball on the inside of the horn. This way it keeps the control rod parallel to the boom.

Unfortunately for me, the recommended 10mm spacing didn't provide enough resolution for me using the Neo, I had to go down a hole and run my ball on the outside.
Make sure it's not binding up. I did this with a RJX mini tail servo which didn't appear to bind but must have with a load on it because the threaded portion of the tail rod snapped off in flight one day.
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Old 02-26-2018, 01:04 PM   #52 (permalink)
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I dont know if this thread is still usefull to anybody, but for me it is atm.
One point i am wondering, is that nobody mentioned to use retaining compound for the main shaft bearing which goes into the frame central plate (Manual page 13).
Look also THIS thread, where OTS gave this information. Sad that this info didnt go into the actual manual.
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Old 02-26-2018, 04:11 PM   #53 (permalink)
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You’re right, it isn’t in the manual, and easily overlooked....


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Old 02-26-2018, 04:52 PM   #54 (permalink)
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I was taught as best practice to always use that compound to bearings fitted this way even it's not in the manual. That's the reason why all of my helis from the from the smallest to the 700, I do it as long it's a metal to metal mating. Light application only though.
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Old 02-26-2018, 11:08 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e92.M3 View Post
I was taught as best practice to always use that compound to bearings fitted this way even it's not in the manual. That's the reason why all of my helis from the from the smallest to the 700, I do it as long it's a metal to metal mating. Light application only though.
Well as an experienced builder, this is a no brainer. For me, or others its the first build and then it could get a little troublesome. Other than that, i hadn´t a retaining compound at home, so i used loctite 275, should hold a ton and is with heat removeable.
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Old 03-01-2018, 12:20 AM   #56 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shonkonray View Post
For me, or others its the first build and then it could get a little troublesome. Other than that, i hadn´t a retaining compound at home, so i used loctite 275, should hold a ton and is with heat removeable.
Since it's your first build, the more you should follow best build practices and not use a thread locker where a cheaper (and proper) retaining compound is being called for.
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Old 03-01-2018, 12:39 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e92.M3 View Post
Since it's your first build, the more you should follow best build practices and not use a thread locker where a cheaper (and proper) retaining compound is being called for.
The manual is using blue thread locker, for whatever reasons.
At first i didnt even know there is something different then thread locker. But now i know it and will start to look to buy some. Thanks.
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